CA2561501A1 - Liquid cleansing composition with particulate optical modifiers - Google Patents

Abstract

A liquid cleansing composition is disclosed that contains a solid particulate optical modifier that modifies the appearance of the skin after rinsing the skin. A method of depositing the solid particulate optical modifier to the skin or hair with the cleansing composition is also disclosed.

Description

LIQUID CLEANSING COMPOSITION WITH PARTICULATE OPTICAL
'ARI1T TT1T'L1'L7 C'~
The present invention relates to detergent compositions suitable for topical application for cleansing the human body, such as the skin and hair. In particular, it relates to compositions containing particulate optical modifiers) that change the appearance of the skin after wash off.
The visual appearance of skin is normally changed by using personal care compositions that are left on the skin.
However, it would be useful if the visual appearance of skin could also be changed by using cleansing compositions that are washed off the skin. Such products would be beneficial to consumers who are looking for multiple functionalities in their cleansing products, such as cleansers that simultaneously cleanse and moisturize.
In this case, products that cleanse the skin will also make it shine, sparkle, or glow by leaving behind solid particles that affect the interaction of light with the skin. These cleansers would save consumers the time required to apply a leave-on product that will change the visual appearance of the skin, and will also give them the benefit of appearing more attractive. Optionally, these cleansers could also contain moisturizers and emollients to condition the skin, and one or more active agents which can be used to deliver a benefit to the skin and which generally are not used to confer a conditioning benefit.

_ 2 _ Prior art skin cleansers modify the way the skin feel s after the shower by depositing materials such as oils or polymers.
Such materials deposit on the skin by various mechanisms, including attraction of cationic materials to the anionic surface of the skin. However, materials that change the feel of the skin do not generally change the look of the skin.
Surprisingly it has been discovered that by incorporating certain solid particles and a specific cationic polymer in a cleanser formulation, the visual appearance of the sh in can be modified after wash off without the need for a complex delivery system employing specific oil droplets.
U.S. Patent no. 6395691 issued to Tsaur on May 28, 2002 directed to a personal wash liquid formulation discloses the use of a particle-in-oil dispersion to deliver solid particles to the skin that are effected by adjusting the size of the oil droplet and the size ratio between th a oil droplet and the particles, and employs large droplets of petrolatum or thickened oil to deposit particles. Th a composition of Tsaur contains 2 o to 20 o by wt. of such a particle-in-oil dispersion.
In a co-pending U.S. patent application S/N 10/443396 filed ~25 on May 22, 2003 by Zhang et al. relating to the deposition of particles from a cleanser, the particles being deposited are small (under 20 microns), and the formulations disclosed rely on structured oil to deposit the particles. In anoth a r co-pending U.S. patent application S/N 10/241401 filed o n Sept.
11, 2002 by Zhang et al. relating to the deposition of particles from a cleanser, the particles being deposit ed have a specified geometry and refractive index, and the formulations disclosed re 1y on a particle-in-oil dispersion to deposit the particles.
Cosmetic formulations tha t are left on the skin and contain solid particles to modify the skin appearance are well known.
For example, many current 1y available lotions. contain mica coated with titanium diox zde or iron oxide that make the s1 in sparkle. Wash-off cleanser formulations that contain solid particles to modify the appearance of the cleanser itself a re~
also well known. For example, many currently available body wash products contain mic a coated with titanium dioxide to give the product a shimmering appearance. In addition, cleanser formulations may contain solid particles to give t he formulation abrasive char acteristics and to exfoliate the skin. Many products that are marketed as exfoliating cleansers contain particles such as polyethylene or various fruit seeds to scrub the s kin.
US Publication no. X003/0134759 A1 published on July 17, 2003 to Geary et al. describes a formulation that contains surfactant, water-insolub Z a solid particles, a synthetic cationic polymer, and a phase separation initiator and whic h contains from 0.025 o to 5o by weight of an organic, non-crosslinked, cationic homopolymer or copolymer having a cationic charge density of from 2 meq/gm to 10 meq/gm and a n average molecular weight of from 1,000 to 5,000,000. The solid particles are depos.zted when the phase separation initiator causes the polymer to form a liquid crystal phase.

In a first aspect of the invention there is provided a liquid cleansing composition comp rising:
(a) 1 % to 35 wt. o of surfactant (s) selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphot eric or cationic surfactant or mixtures tl-sereof;
(b) 0.1 o to 10 0 of a cationic polymer; and, (c) an effective concentration of a solid particulate optical modifier for exhibiting a specific set of optical properties on skin characterized by a set of Tristimulus Color Vales Z, a*, and b*; a reflectivity change, and an opacity change, that provides at least a 5 o change in at least one of the specific optical prop erties when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol described below.
In a further aspect of the invents on there is provided a method of depositing a solid part-~culate optical modifier onto the skin from a liquid cleans ing composition comprising:
(a) 1 o to 35 wt. o of surfactant (s) selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphot eric or cationic surfactant or mixtures tl-sereof;
(b) 0.1 o to 10 0 of a catiorsic polymer;
(c) an effective concentrate~n of a solid particulate optical modifier for exhi biting a specific set of optical properties on ski n characterized by a set of Tristimulus Color Vales L,, a*, and b*; a reflectivity change, and a n opacity change, that provides at least a 5 % change in at least one of the specific optical properties when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol described below;
(d) applying said cleansing composition to the skin or hair; and (e) rinsing off said cleansing composition.
In a further aspect of the inventio n is a liquid cleansing composition comprising:
(a) 1 % to 35 wt. o of surfactant (s) selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactant or mixtures thereofy (b) 0.1 o to 10 0 of a cationic polymer; and, (c) an effective concentration of a solid particulate optical modifier for exhibiting a specific set of optical properties on skin characterized by a set of Tristimulus Color Values Z, a*, and b*; a reflectivity change, and an opacity change, that provides at least a 5 o change in at least one of the specific optical properties when said cleansing composition is applied to s kin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual .assessment Protocol.
In a preferred embodiment of this a spent of the invention, the inventive composition further comprises:
(a) a thickening agent;

(b) wherein the viscosity of the cleansing composition is in the range of 1,000 to 300,000 cps, preferably 5, 000 to 50, 000 cps @ 1/sec shear rate a-t 25°C using the cone and plate method described below; and, (c) wherein the cleansing composition is iso t Topic.
In a second preferred embodiment of this aspect a f the invention, the inventive cleansing composition further comprises:
(a) 3 o to 30 o by weight of a surfactant sy stem including at least one surfactant select a d from an anionic, amphoteric, cationic and nonion z c surfactant and mixtures thereof, wherein at least one anionic surfactant must be present;
(b) 0.1 o to 15 % by wt. of an ordered liqui d crystalline phase inducing structurant f or inducing an ordered liquid crystalline phase in s aid cleansing composition; preferably wherein the ordered liquid crystalline phase inducin g structurant is selected from a C8 to C24 alkenyl or branched alkyl fatty acid or ester there of, a C8 to C24 alkenyl or branched alkyl alcohol or ether thereof, a C5 to C14 linear alkyl fatty acid, trihydroxystearin, or derivatives or mix t ures thereof: more preferably wherein the ord eyed liquid crystalline phase inducing structurant i s selected from lauric acid, oleic acid, palm kerne 1 acid, palm fatty acid, coconut acid, isosteari c acid, or derivatives or mixtures thereof; and st ill more preferably wherein the ordered liquid crystalline phase has lamellar structure;
(c) wherein said ordered liquid crystalline phase composition has a viscosity of 40,000 to 300,000 cps at 25°C as measured via the T-bar method; and (d) wherein said ordered liquid crystall.zne phase composition contains less than 0.025 o by weight of an organic, non-crosslinked, cationic homopolymer or copolymer having a cationic charge density of from 2 meq/gm to 10 meq/gm and an average molecular weight of from 1,000 to 5,000,000. Preferably the inventive ordered liquid crystalline phase composition contains 0 0 of this polymer.
Preferably the visual attribute targeted by the optical modifier is selected from skin shine, skin color or skin optical uniformity, and combinations thereof. These attributes can be further estimated by way of h value, reflectance change and opacity change using the In-vitro Visual Assessment~Protocol described below.
Advantageously the change in L value is in th a range from 0 to +10, the reflectance change is in the rang a from 0 to +300 0, and the change in opacity is in the range from 0 to +20 o with the proviso that the change in L v aloe, reflectance change and opacity change are not all zero so as to provide noticeable skin shine when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinse d off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol; preferab 1 y wherein greater than 10 o by wt. (preferably greater than about 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90 or 95 0 ) of the pa rticulate _ g _ optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions wherein:
i) the exterior surface has a refractive index of= 1.8 to 4.0;
ii) the geometry is platy, cylindrical or a blend thereof; and iii) the specific dimensions are 10 to 200 um average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 10 to 200 um in average length and 0.5 to 5.0 um in average diameter in the case of a cylindrical particle.
Advantageously the change in Z value is in the range from 0 to +10, the change in the a* value is in the range from 0 to +10, the change in the b* value is in the range from 0 t o +10, the change in opacity is in the range from 0 to +50 0, and the reflectance change is within the normal skin reflectivity range of +10 0, with the proviso that the change in Z value, b* and opacity change are not all zer o so as to provide noticeable skin lightening or color change when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and t hen rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol;
preferably wherein greater than 10 o by wt. (preferably greater than about 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90 or 95 0) of the particulate optical modifier is further defined I~y an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specifi c dimensions wherein:
i) the exterior surface has a refractive index of 1.3 to 4.0;

ii) the geometry is spheroidal, platy or a blend thereof;
iii) the specific dimensions are 1 to 30um average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 0.1 to 1 um in average diameter in the case of a spheroidal particle; and iv) optionally having fluorescence color, absorption color, interference color or a combination thereof.
Advantageously the change in Z value is in the range from 0 to +5, the reflectance change is in the range from 0 to +100 o, the change in opacity is in the range from 0 to +50 0, and the change in a* and b* are within normal skin color range of +10 o for each of a* or b*, with the proviso that the change in Z value, reflectance change and opacity change are not all zero so as to provide noticeable skin optical uniformity change when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol: preferably wherein greater than 10 o by wt. (preferably greater than about 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90 or 95 0) of the particulate optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions wherein:
i) the exterior surface has a refractive index of 1.3 to 2.0 ii) the geometry is spheroidal, platy, cylindrical or a blend thereof iii) the specific dimensions are 0.1 to 200 um in average diameter in the case of a spheroidal particle, 1 to 10 um average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 1 to 10 um in average length and 0.5 to 5.0 um in average diameter in the case of a cylindrical particle, and iv) optionally having fluorescence color, absorption color, interference color or a combination thereof.
In a further preferred embodiment of the inventive cleansing composition, the particulate optical modifier is composed predominately of platy particles further defined by having an average plate diameter of 10 pm to 200 um and a refractive index of at least 1.8 (preferably having an average plate diameter of about 10 um to 100 ~Zm and a refractive index of at least about 2); and more preferably wherein the particulate optical modifier contains a surface modification selected from amino acids, proteins, fatty acids, lipids, phospholipids (lecithin), anionic and/or cationic oligomers/polymers or blends or derivatives thereof to enhance the deposition of the optical modifier on to the skin.
Preferably the inventive composition contains a cationic polymer having a charge density of at least 0.7 Meq/g (more preferably at least about 0.8, 0.9 or 1.0 Meq/g); still more preferably wherein the cationic polymer is selected from Merquat~ 100 or 2200, Jaguars C17 or C13S, Salcare~ Supre 7, SC10, or SC30; Gafquat ~ HS100 or 755, and Luviquat~
FC370, FC550, HM552 or FC905; or blends thereof.

Advantageously the inventive composition contains an anionic surfactant and optionally an amphoteric surfactant, preferably wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from a C8-C16 alkyl sulfate and/or alkyl ether sulfates, fatty acid soaps, taurates, sulfosuccinates, glycinates, sarcosinates or blends thereof and the amphoteric surfactant is selected from amphoacetates, betaines and amidoalkyl betaines or derivatives or blends thereof.
Advantageously the ratio of anionic surfactant to a surfactant that has a positive charge at a pH of 6.5 or below (preferably where the surfactant has a positive charge at a pH of about 5.5 or below) is in the range of 15:1 to 1:2; in the case of the isotropic composition and is in the range of about 6:1 to about 1:2 in the case of the liquid crystalline structured composition. Preferably wherein the surfactant with the positive charge is an amphoteric surfactant; and more preferably wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from betaine, alkylamidopropyl betaine, sulphobetaine, amphoacetate or blends thereof.
In a further preferred embodiment, the solid particulate optical modifier has an average diameter of at least 30 microns (preferably at least about 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 120, 140, or 150 microns). Preferably the solid particulate optical modifier is present in a minimum concentration of at least 0.2 o by wt. (preferably at least about 0.25, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.7, 0.~, or 1 o by wt.).
Advantageously the thickening agent for the isotropic composition is selected from polyacrylates; silica; natural and synthetic waxes; aluminum silicate; lanolin derivatives;
C8 to C20 fatty alcohols polyethylene copolymers;
polyammonium carboxylates: sucrose esters; hydrophobic clays; petrolatum; hydrotalcites; cellulose derivatives, polysaccharide derivatives, or derivatives and mixtures thereof. Preferably the isotropic composition is structured with a structurant selected from swelling clays; cross-linked polyacrylates; acrylate homopolymers and copolymers;
polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and copolymers;
polyethylene imines: inorganic salts; sucrose esters, gellants or blends and derivatives thereof.
Advantageously the inventive isotropic structured composition further comprises an emollient having a weight average emollient particle size in the range of 1 to 500 microns; preferably wherein the composition contains less than 10 o by wt. of hydrophobic emollient(s).
More preferably, the isotropic composition has less than 50 o by wt. (preferably less than about 40, 30, 20, 10, or 5 0 by wt.) of the solid particulate optical modifier suspended in an oil. Preferably the isotropic composition contains less than about 10 % by wt. (preferably less than 5, 2, 1, 0.5, 0.1 or 0.05 o by wt.) of hydrophobic emollients) (as defined below) .
In a further preferred embodiment the composition contains at least 7 wt o; preferably 10 to 25 wt o of the surfactant, and preferably the particulate optical modifier is selected from organic pigments, inorganic pigments, polymers, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, colored iron oxide, chromium oxide/hydroxide/hydrate, alumina, silica, zirconia, barium sulfate, silicates, polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon, ultramarine, alkaline earth carbonates, talc, sericite, mica, synthetic mica, polymers, platy substrate coated with organic and inorganic materials, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, or blends and physical aggregates thereof; more preferably wherein the particulate optical modifier pons esses color generated through fluorescence, adsorption, iridescence or a combination thereof. Preferably the inventive composition comprises greater than 30 % by weight water .
In a further aspect of the invention is provided a method of depositing a solid particulate optical modifier onto the skin from a liquid cleansing composition according to any of the preceeding claims, or a blend thereof, comprising the steps of (a) 1 o to 35 wt. o of surfactants) selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactant or mixtures thereof;
(b) 0.1 o to 10 0 of a cationic polymer;
(c) an effective concentration of a solid particulate optical modifier for exhibiting a specific set of optical properties on skin characterized by a set of Tristimulus Color Values Z, a*, and b*; a reflectivity change, and an opacity change, that provides at least a 5 o change in at least one of the specific optical properties when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol described below;

(d) applying said cleansing composition to the skin or hair; and (e) rinsing off said cleansing composition.
Surfactants are an essential component of the inventive cleansing composition. They are compounds that have hydrophobic and hydrophilic portions that act to reduce the surface tension of the aqueous solutions they are dissolved in. Useful surfactants can include anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, and cationic surfactants,, and blends thereof.
The cleansing composition of the present invention may contain one or more anionic detergents. Anionic surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 3 or 5 or 7 o by wt., and at levels as high as 12 or 15 o by wt.
The anionic detergent active which may be used may be aliphatic sulfonates, such as a primary alkane (e.g., Cg-C~~) sulf onate, primary alkane (e.g., Cg-C2~) disulfonate, Cg-C~~
alkene sulfonate, Cg-C22 hydroxyalkane sulfonate or alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate (AGS); or aromatic sulfonates such as alkyl benzene sulfonate.
The anionic may also be an alkyl sulfate (e. g., C12-C1g alkyl sulfate) or an alkyl ether sulfate (including alkyl glyceryl ether sulfates). Among the alkyl ether sulfates are those having the formula:

RO(CH2CH20)nS03M
wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl having 8 to 18 carbons, preferably 12 to 18 carbons, n has an average value of greater than 1.0, preferably greater than 3; and M is a solubilizing cat s on such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. Ammonium and sodium lauryl ether sulfates are preferred.
The anionic may also be alkyl sulfosuccinates (including mono- and dialkyl, e.g., C6-C~2 sulfosuccinates); alkyl and acyl taurates, a 1 kyl and acyl sarcosinates, sulfoacetates, Cg-C2~ alkyl phosphates and phosphates, alkyl phosphate esters and alkoxyl alkyl phosphate esters, acyl lactates, Cg-C22 monoalkyl succin ates and maleates, sulphoacetates, alkyl glucosides and a cyl isethionates, and the like.
Sulfosuccinates rnay be monoalkyl sulfosuccinates having the formula:
R 40~CCH~CH(S03M)C02M; and amide-MEA sulfosuccinates of the formula;
R~CONHCH2CH202CCH~CH(S03M)CO~M
wherein R4 range s from Cg-C22 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.

Sarcosinates are generally indicated by the formula:
R~CON(CH3)CH2CO~M, wherein R1 ranges from Cg-C2p alkyl and M is a solubilizing canon.
Taurates are generally identified by formula:
R2CONR3CH2CH~S03M
wherein R~ ranges from Cg-C2p alkyl, R3 ranges from C1-C4 alkyl and M is a solubilizing ration.
The inventive cleansing composition may contain Cg-Clg aryl isethionates. These esters are prepared by reaction between alkali metal isethionate with mixed aliphatic fatty acids having from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and an iodine value of less than 20. At least 75 0 of the mixed fatty acids have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and up to 25 o have from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.
The aryl isethionate may be an alkoxylated isethionate such as is described in Ilardi et al., U.S. Patent No. 5,393,466, titled "Fatty Acid Esters of Polyalkoxylated isethonic acid°', issued February 28, 1995; hereby incorporated by reference.
This compound has the general formula:

I I
R C-0-CH-CH2-(0CH-CH2)m-S03M
wherein R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbons, m is an integer from 1 to 4, X and Y are hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbons and M+ is a monovalent cation such as, for example, sodium, potassium or ammonium.
One or more amphoteric surfactants may be used in this invention. Amphoteric surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 0.5 or 0.8 0, and at levels as high as 4 or 5 o by wt. for isotropic compostions or levels as low as 1 or

2 o by wt. and at levels as high as 6 or 8 o by wt. for ordered liquid crystalline compositions. Such surfactants include at least one acid group. This may be a carboxylic or a sulphonic acid group. They include quaternary nitrogen and therefore are quaternary ami do acids. They should generally include an alkyl or alkenyl group of 7 to 18 carbon atoms.
They will usually comply with an overall structural formula:

I
R1- [-C-NH ( CH2 ) n-] m-N+-X-f I

where R1 is alkyl or alkenyl of 7 to 18 carbon atoms; R~ and R3 are each independently a1 kyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of 1 to 3 carbon atoms; n is 2 to 4; m is 0 to 1; X is alkylene of 1 to 3 carbon atoms opt Tonally substituted with hydroxyl, and Y is -C02- or -S03-Suitable amphoteric surfactants within the above general formula include simple betaines of formula:

I
R1-N+-CH2C0~-I

and amido betaines of formula:

I
R1 - CONH(CH~)n-N+-CH2C02 where n is 3 or 3.
In both formulae R1, R~ and R3 are as defined previously. R1 may in particular be a mixture of C12 and CIg alkyl groups derived from ooconut oil so that at least half, preferably at least three quarters of the groups R1 have 10 to 14 carbon atoms. R~ and R3 are preferably methyl.
A further possibility is that the amphoteric detergent is a sulphobetaine of formula:

R1-N+-(CH2)3503_ ~ R3 or Rl - C01~IH ( CH2 ) m-N+- ( CHI ) 3 S03 _ where m is 2 or 3, or variants of these in which -(CH~)3 S03 is replaced by OH
-CH2CHCH~S03 In these formulae R1, R~ and R3 are as discussed previously.
Amphoacetates and diamphoacetates are also intended to be covered in possible zwitterionic and/or amphoteric compounds which may be used such as e.g., sodium 1 auroamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, and blends thereof, and the like.
One or more nonionic surfactants may als o be used in the cleansing composition of the present invention. Nonionic surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 0.5 or 0.8 and at levels as high as 1.5 or 2 o by wt. for isotropic compositions or at levels as low as 1 or 2 o by wt. and at levels as high as 5 or 6 o by wt. for ordered 1_iquid crystalline compositions.
The nonionics which may be used include in part icular the reaction products of compounds having a hydrophobic group and a reactive hydrogen atom, for example aliphatic alcohols, acids, am3 des or alkylphenols with alkylene oxides, especially ethylene oxide either alone or with propylene oxide. Specific nonionic detergent compounds a re alkyl (C6-C22) phenols ethylene oxide condensates, th a condensation products of aliphatic (Cg-Clg) primary or secondary linear or branched a lcohols with ethylene oxide, and products made by condensat i on of ethylene oxide with the reaction products of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine. Other so- called nonionic detergent compounds include long chain tertiary amine oxides, long chain tertiary phosphine oxides and dialkyl stalphoxide, and the like.
The nonion is may also be a sugar amide, such as a polysaccharide amide. Specifically, the surfactant may be one of the lactobionamides described in U.S. Pa tent No.
5,389,279 to Au et al. titled "Compositions Comprising Nonionic Glycolipid Surfactants" issued Februar y 14, 1995;
which is hereby incorporated by reference, or i t may be one of the sugar amides described in Patent No. 5,009,814 to Relkenberg, titled "Use of N-Poly Hydroxyalkyl Fatty Acid Amides as Thickening Agents for Ziquid Aqueous Surfactant Systems" issued April 23, 1991; hereby incorporated into the subject application by reference.

Suitable thickening agents can be added as a structur ant when the composition is isotropic. Suitable thickening agents include polacrylates; fumed silica natural and synthetic waxes, alkyl silicone waxes such as behenyl silicone wax_; aluminium silicate; lanolin derivatives such as lanesterol; C8 to C20 fatty alcohols;
polyethylenecopolymers; polyammonium stearate; sucros a esters; hydrophobic clays; petrolatum; hydrotalcites; and mixtures thereof, and the like.
Hydrotalcites are materials of general formula:
[MmNn(~H)..~~m+n) ~.n+ X.m _n/m Y H2~
g. g. , N is a trivalent where M is a divalent metal ion e. M ~+-metal ion e.g. A1.3+; X is an exchangeable anion e.g. C0.3' , N0.3. , stearate, cinnimate; m is the number of divalent metal ions; and n is the number of trivalent metal ions.
Particularly preferred thickening agents include sill ca, alkyl silicone waxes, paraffin wax, C8 to C20 fatty alcohols, petroleum jelly and polyethylene copolymers, blends thereof and the like.
While some materials can function as both an emollient and a thickener, therefor it will be appreciated that the emollient and thickening function cannot be provided lay the same component. However, it will be understood that where the composition comprises two or more emollients one of said emollients could also function as a thickening agent.

Preferably the amount of thickening agent may be as low as 1 o by wt. and may be up to 5, 10, 15, 20 or 25 o by weight_ Although the isotropi c compositions of the invention may h a self-structuring, pre ferably they will also comprise a structurant, i.e. a material added to increase the viscosity at zero shear. Suitable materials include swelling clays, for example laponite~ fatty acids and derivatives hereof and, in particular fatty acid monoglyceride polyglycol ethers; cross-linked polyacrylates such as Carbopol (TM) (polymers available from Goodrich); acrylates and copolymers thereof e.g. Aqua SF-1 available from Noveon (Cleveland, Ohio), polyvinylpyrr~ lidone and copolymers thereof;
polyethylene imines; salts such as sodium chloride and ammonium sulphate; sucrose esters; gellants; natural gums including alginates, guar, xanthan and polysaccharide derivatives including carboxy methyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl guar; propylene glycols and propylene glycol oleates; glycerol tat lowates; and mixtures thereof, mixtures thereof, and the like.
Of the clays, particularly preferred are synthetic hectori to (laponite) clay used in conjunction with an electrolyte sa It capable of causing t1 a clay to thicken. Suitable electrolytes include alkali and alkaline earth salts such as halides, ammonium salts and sulphates, blends thereof and the like.
Further examples of ~ tructurants and thickeners are given in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, published by CTFA (The Cosmetic, Toiletry &
Fragrance Association), incorporated herein by reference.
A necessary comp onent in compositions according to the invention is a cationic skin feel conditioning agent or polymer, such as for example cationic celluloses. Cationic polymers are pre ferably used at levels as low as 0.2 or 0.3, and at levels as high as 1 or 1.5 o by wt. in the case of an isotropic composition, or at levels as low as 0.2 or 0.3 0 and at levels as high as 0.8 or 1 o by wt. in the case of an ordered liquid crystalline composition.
Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in thei r Polymer JR (trade mark) and ZR (trade mark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in t he industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10.
Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammorzium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dime thyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are azrailable from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the t radename Polymer ZM-200.
A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in their JAGUAR trademark series). Examples are JAGUAR C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity, JAGUAR C15, having a moderate degree of substitution and a low viscosity, JAGUAR C17 (high degra a of substitution, high viscosity), JAGUAR C16, which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationi o quaternary ammonium groups, and JAGUAR 162 which is a high transparency, medium viscosity guar having a low degree of= substitution.
Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C16 and JAGUAR 0162, especially Jaguar C13S. Other cationic skin feel agents known in the art may be used provided that they are compatible with the inventive formulation.
One or more cationic surfactants may also be used in the cleansing composition. Cationic surfactants may be used at levels as low as 0.1, 0..3, 0.5 or 1 0, and at levels as high as 2, 3, 4 or 5 o by wt.
Examples of cationic detergents are the quaternary ammonium compounds such as alkyldimethylammoni_um halogenides.
Other suitable surfactants which may be used are described in U.S. Patent No. 3,723,325 to Parra n Jr. titled "Detergent Compositions Containing Particle Deposition Enhancing Agents" issued March, 27, 1973; and "Surface Active Agents and Detergents" (Vol. T & II) by Sch~,~rartz, Perry & Berch, both of which are also incorporated into the subject application by reference.
In addition, the inventive cleansing composition of the invention may include 0 to 15 o by wt. optional ingredients as follows: perfumes; sequestering agents, such as tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA)~ EHDP or mixtures in an amount of 0.01 to 1 0, preferab ~ y 0.01 to 0.05 o; and coloring agents, opacifiers and pearlize rs such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, TiO~, ELMS (ethylene glycol monostearate) or Zytron 621 (Styrene/Acrylate copolymer) and the like; all of which are useful in enhancing the appearance or cosmetic properties of the product.
The compositions may further comprise antimicr obials such as 2-hydroxy-4,2', 4' trichlorodiphenylether (DP300);
preservatives such as dimethyloldimethylhydant o in (Glydant XZ1000), parabens, sorbic acid etc., and the 1~ ke.
The compositions may also comprise coconut aryl mono- or diethanol amides as suds boosters, and strongly ionizing salts such as sodium chloride and sodium sulfate may also be used to advantage.
Antioxidants such as, for example, butylated h~droxytoluene (BHT) and the like may be used advantageously ~n amounts of 0.01 0 or higher if appropriate.
Moisturizers that also are humectants such as p olyhydric alcohols, e.g. glycerine and propylene glycol, and the like;
and polyols such as the polyethylene glycols listed below and the like may be used.
Polyox WSR-205 PEG 14M, Polyox WSR-N-60K PEG 45M, or Polyox WSR-N-750 PEG 7M.
Hydrophobic and/or hydrophilic emollients (i.e . humectants) mentioned above may be used. Preferably, hydrophilic emollients are used in excess of hydrophobic emollients in the inventive cleansing composition. Most pre.terably one or more hydrophilic emollients are used alone. Hydrophilic emollients are preferably present in a concentration greater than 0.01 o by weight, more preferably greater than 0.5 o by weight. Preferably the inventive composition contains less than 10, 5, 3, 2, 1, 0.7, 0.5, 0.3, 0.2, 0.1, 0.05 or 0.01 0 by wt. of a hydrophobic emollient in the case of an isotropic composition. Hydrophobic emollients are prefezably present in a concentration greater than 3, 5, 7, 9, 10, 15, 20, or 25 o by weight in the case of an ordered liquid czystalline composition.
The term "emollient" is defined as a substance which softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and yo-~zthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by either increasing its water content, adding, or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients, or both; and keeps it soft by retarding the decrease of its water content.
Useful emollients (also considered conditioning compounds according to the invention) include the followsng:
(a) silicone oils and modifications thereo f such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl, and aryl silicone o ~ 1s;
(b) fats and oils including natural fats and oils such as jojoba, soybean, sunflower, rice bran avocado, _ 27 _ almond, olive, sesame, persic, castor, coconut, mink oils; cacao fat; beef tallow, lard; harden ed oils obtained by hydrogenating the aforementiorzed oils;

and synthetic mono-, di- and triglycerides such as myristic acid glyceride and 2-ethylhexanoi c acid glyceride;

(c) waxes such as carnauba, spermaceti, beeswa x, lanolin, and derivatives thereof;

(d) hydrophobic and hydrophillic plant extract s;

(e) hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffins, vas eline, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, p ristan and mineral oil;

(f) higher fatty acids such as lauric, myristi c, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linolei c, linolenic, lanolic, isostearic, arachidoni c and poly unsaturated fatty acids (PUFA);

(g) higher alcohols such as lauryl, cetyl, ste aryl, oleyl, behenyl, cholesterol and 2-hexydeca nol alcohol;

(h) esters such as cetyl octanoate, myristyl 1 actate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myrist y1 myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate, glycer-of distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate;

(i) essential oils and extracts thereof such a s mentha, jasmine, camphor, white cedar, bitter orange peel, ryu, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, citru s unshiu, calamus, pine, lavender, bay, clove, hiba, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peep ermint, rose, sage, sesame, ginger, basil, juniper, lemon grass, rosemary, rosewood, avocado, grape grapeseed, myrrh, cucumber, watercress, calendula, e? der flower, geranium, linden blossom, amaranth, seawee d, gin ko, ginseng, carrot, guarana, tea tree, jojoba, comfrey, oatmeal, cocoa, neroli, vanilla, green tee, penny royal, aloe vera, menthol, cineole, eugenol, citral, citronelle, borneol, linalool, geraniol, evening primrose, camphor, thymol, spirantol, penene, limonene and terpenoid oils; and (j) mixtures of any of the foregoing components, and the like.
Preferred conditioning agents are selected from glycerin, triglyceride oils, mineral oils, petrolatum, and mixtures thereof. Further preferred emollients are glycerin, triglycerides such as shea butter and sunflower seed oil.
In preferred embodiment, the inventive cleansing composition possesses either isotropic micellar phase, ordere d liquid crystalline phase microstructure (preferably lamell ar microstructure structure), or a combination thereof . The rheological behavior of all surfactant solutions, including liquid cleansing solutions, is strongly dependent on the microstructure, i.e., the shape and concentration ~ f micelles or other self-assembled structures in solution.
When there is sufficient surfactant to form micelle s (concentrations above the critical micelle concentration or CMC), for example, spherical, cylindrical (rod-like or discoidal), spherocylindrical or ellipsoidal micelles may form. As surfactant concentration increases, ordered liquid crystalline phases such as lamellar phase, hexagonal phase, cubic phase or Z3 sponge phase may form. The lamellar phase, for example, consists of alternating surfactant bilayers and water layers. These layers are not generally flat, but fold to form submicron spherical onion like structures called vesicles or liposomes. The hexagonal phase, on the other hand, consists of long cylindrical micelles arranged in a hexagonal lattice. In general, the microstructure of most personal care products consist of either spherical micelles, rod micelles, or a lamellar dispersion.
As noted above, micelles may be spherical or rod-like.
Formulations having spherical micelles tend to have a low viscosity and exhibit Newtonian shear behavior (i.e., the viscosity stays constant as a function of shear rate; thus, if easy pouring of product is desired, the solution is less viscous and, as a consequence, it doesn't suspend as well .
In these systems, the viscosity increases linearly with surfactant concentration.
Rod micellar solutions are more viscous because movement o f the longer micelles is restricted. At a critical shear rate, the micelles align and the solution becomes shear thinning. Addition of salts increases the size of the rod micelles thereof increasing zero shear viscosity (i.e., viscosity when sitting in bottle) which helps suspend particles, but also increases critical shear rate (i.e. the point at which the product becomes shear thinning; higher critical shear rates means product is more difficult to pour ) .
Zamellar dispersions differ from both spherical and rod-like micelles because they can have high zero shear viscosity (because of the close packed arrangement of constituent lamellar droplets), yet these solutions are very shear thinning (e.g. readily dispense on pouring). That is, the solutions can become thinner than rod micellar solutions at moderate shear rates.
In formulating liquid cleansing compositions, therefore, there is the choice of using rod-micellar solutions (whose zero shear viscosity, e.g., suspending ability, is not very good and/or are not very shear thinning); or lamellar dispersions (with higher zero shear viscosity, e.g. better suspending, and yet are very shear thinning). Such lamellar compositions are characterized by high zero shear viscosity (good for suspending and/or structuring) while simultaneously being very shear thinning such that they readily dispense in pouring. Such compositions possess a "heaping", lotion-like appearance which convey signals of enhanced moisturization.
Tnlhen rod-micellar solutions are used, they also often require the use of external structurants to enhance viscosity and to suspend particles (again, because they have lower zero shear viscosity than lamellar phase solutions).
For this, carbomers and clays are often used. At higher shear rates (as in product dispensing, application of product to body, or rubbing with hands), since the rod-micellar solutions are less shear thinning, the viscosity of the solution stays high and the product can be stringy and thick. Lamellar dispersion based products, having higher zero shear viscosity, can more readily suspend emollients and are typically more creamy. In general, lamellar phase compositions are easy to identify by their characteristic focal conic shape and oily streak texture while hexagonal phase exhibits angular fan-like texture. In contrast, micellar phases are optically isotropic.
It should be understood that lamellar phases may be formed in a wide variety of surfactant systems using a wide variety of lamellar phase "inducers" as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,952,286 issued to Puvvada, et al., on September, 14, 1999. Generally, the transition from micelle to lamellar phase are functions of effective average area of headgroup of the surfactant, the length of the extended tail, and the volume of tail. Using branched surfactants or surfactants with smaller headgroups or bulky tails are also effective ways of inducing transitions from rod micellar to lamellar.
One way of characterizing isotropic micellar dispersions (hereinafter "isotropic compositions") include cone and plate viscosity measurement as described below. The inventive isotropic composition has a viscosity in the range of 1,000 to 300,000 cps @ 1/sec shear rate at 25°C as measured by a cone and plate technique described below. Preferably the viscosity is in the range of 5,000 to 50,000 cps.

One way of characterizing ordered liquid crystalline dispersions include measuring viscosity at low shear rate (using for example a Stress Rheometer) when additional inducer (e.g., oleic acid or isostearic acid) is used. At higher amounts of inducer, the low shear viscosity will significantly increase.
Another way of measuring ordered liquid crystalline dispersions is using freeze fracture electron microscopy.
Micrographs generally will show ordered liquid crystalline microstructure and close packed organization of the lamellar droplets (generally in size range of 2 microns).
The inventive ordered liquid crystalline-isotropic composition preferably has a low shear viscosity in the range of 40,000 to 300,000 centipoises (cps) measured at 0.5 RPM using T-bar spindle A using the procedure described below. More preferably the viscosity range is 50,000 to 150,000 cps.
An important component of compositions according to the present invention is that of solid particulate optical modifiers, preferably light reflecting platelet shaped or platy particles. These particles will preferably have an average particle size D5p ranging from 25,000 to 150,000 nm.
For plate-like materials the average particle size is a number average value. The platelets are assumed to have a circular shape with the diameter of the circular surface averaged over many particles. The thickness of the plate-like particles is considered to be a separate parameter.
For instance, the platelets can have an average particle size of 35,000 nm and an average thickness of 400 nm. For purposes herein, thickness is considered to range from 100 to 600 nm. Laser light scattering can be utilized for measurement, except that light scattered data has to be mathematically corrected from the spherical to the non-spherical shape. Optical and electron microscopy may be used to determine average particle size. Thickness is normally only determined via optical or electron microscopy.
The refractive index of these particles is preferred to be at least 1.8, generally from 1.9 to 4, more preferably from 2 to 3, optimally between 2.5 and 2.8.
Illustrative but not limiting examples of light reflecting particles are bismuth oxychloride (single crystal platelets) and titanium dioxide and/or iron oxide coated. mica.
Suitable bismuth oxychloride crystals are available from EM
Industries, Inc. under the trademarks Biron~ NLY-L-2X CO and Biron~ Silver CO (wherein the platelets are dispersed in castor oil); Biron~ Liquid Silver (wherein the particles are dispersed in a stearate ester); and Nailsyn~ IGO, Nailsyn~
II C2X and Nailsyn~ II Platinum 25 (wherein the platelets are dispersed in nitrocellulose). Most preferred is a system where bismuth oxychloride is dispersed in a C2 - C40 alkyl ester such as in Biron~ Liquid Silver.
.Among the suitable titanium dioxide coated mica platelets are materials available from EM Industries, Inc. These include TimironO MP-45 (particle size range 49,000 - 57,000 nm), Timiron~ MP- 99 (particle size range 47,000 - 57,000 nm), Tsmiron~ MP-47 (particle size range 28,000 - 38,000 nm), Timiron~ MP-149 (particle size range 65,000 - 82,000 nm), and Timiron~ MP-18 (particle size range 41,000 - 51,000 nm). Most preferred is Timiron~ MP-149. The weight ratio of tit anium dioxide coating to the mica platelet may range from 1:10 to 5:1, preferably from 1:6 to 1:7, by weight.
Advantageously the preferred compositions will generally be substantially free of titanium dioxide outside of that required for coating mica.
Among the suitable iron oxide and titanium dioxide coated mica platelets are materials available from EM Industires, Inc. These include Timiron~ MP-28 (particle size range 27,000 - 37,000 nm), Timiron~ MP-29 (particle size range 47,000 - 55,000 nm), and Timiron~ MP-24 (particle size range 56,000 - 70,000 nm). Most prefered is Timiron~ MP-24.
Among the suitable iron oxide coated mica platelets are materials available from EM Industires, Inc. These include Coloron a~ Bronze Sparkle (particle size range 28,000 -42,000 nm), Colorona~ Glitter Bronze (particle size range 65,000 - 82,000 nm), Colorona~ Copper Sparkle (particle size range 25,000 - 39,000 nm), and Colorona~ Glitter Copper (particle size range 65,000 - 82,000 nm).

Suitable coatings for mica other than titanium dioxide and iron oxide rnay also achieve the appropriate optical properties required for the present invention. These types of coated micas must also meet the refractive index of at least 1.8. Other coatings include silica on the mica platelets.
Advantageou sly, optional active agents other than conditionin g agents such as emollients or moisturizers defined above may be added to the cleansing composition in a safe and effective amount during formulation to treat the skin during the use of the product. These active ingredients may be advantageously selected from antimicrobi al and antifungal actives, vitamins, anti-acne actives; anti-wrinkle, anti-skin atrophy and skin repair actives; sksn barrier repair actives; non- steroidal cosmetic soothing actives; artificial tanning agents and accelerators; skin lightening actives; sunscreen actives;
sebum stimulators; sebum inhibitors; anti-oxidants; protease inhibitors; skin tightening agents; anti-itch ingredients;
hair growth inhibitors; 5-alpha reductase inhibitors;
desquamatin g enzyme enhancers; anti-glycation agents;
topical anesthetics, or mixtures thereof; and the like.
These active agents may be selected from water-soluble active agents, oil soluble active agents, pharmaceutically-acceptable salts and mixtures thereof. Advantageously the agents will be soluble or dispersible in the cleansing composition. The term "active agent" as used herein, means personal care actives which can be used to deliver a benefit to the skin and/or hair and which generally are not used to confer a condition ing benefit, as is conferred by humectants and emollients pre viously described herein. The term "safe and effective amount" as used herein, means an amount of active agent high enough to modify the condition to be treated or to deli ver the desired skin care benefit, but low enough to avoid serious side effects. The term "benefit,"
as used herein, means the therapeutic, prophylactic, and/or chronic benefits associated with treating a particular condition with one or more of the active agents described herein.
What is a safe and effective amount of the active agent ingredient will vary with the specific active agent, the ability of the act ive to penetrate through the skin, the age, health condit zon, and skin condition of the user, and other like factors. Preferably the composition of the present invention comprise from 0.01 o to 50 0, more preferably from 0.05 o to 25 0, even more preferably 0.1 0 to 10 0, and most preferably 0.1 o to 5 0, by weight of the active agent component.
Anti-acne actives can be effective in treating acne vulgaris, a chroni c disorder of the pilosebaceous follicles.
Non-limiting e~amp 1es of useful anti-acne actives include ~5 the keratolytics such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), derivatives of salicylic acid such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid and 4 methoxysalicylic acid, and resorcinol;
retinoids such as retinoic acid and its derivatives (e. g., cis and trans); sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, particularly their N-acetyl derivatives, mixtures thereof and the like.

Anti-microbial and anti-fungal actives can be effective to prevent the proliferation and growth of bacteria and fungi.
Non-limiting examples of anti-microbial and anti-fungal actives include b-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxa cin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4-trichl oro-2~-hydroxy Biphenyl ether,

3,4,4- trichlorobanili de, phenoxyethanol, triclosan;
triclocarban; and mixtures thereof and the like.
Anti-wrinkle, anti-skin atrophy and skin repair actives can be effective in repleni skiing or rejuvenating the epidermal layer. These actives generally provide these desirable skin care benefits by promoting or maintaining the natural process of desquamation. Non-limiting examples of anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy actives include vitamins, minerals, and skin nutrients such as milk, vitamins A, E, and K; vitamin alkyl esters, including vitamin C alkyl esters; magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc and other metallic components; retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); retinal; retinol; retinyl esters such as retinyl acetate, retinyl palmit ate, and retinyl propionate; vitamin B 3 compounds (such as niacinamide and nicotinic acid), alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, e.g. salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, heptyloxy 4 salicylic acid, and 4-methoxy salicylic acid);
mixtures thereof and th a like.
Skin barrier repair act Ives are those skin care actives which can help repair and rep lenish the natural moisture barrier function of the epidermis. Non-limiting examples of skin barrier repair actives includ a lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters and pseudo-ceramides as described in European Patent Specificat ion No. 556,957; ascorbic acid;
biotin; biotin esters; phosph olipids, mixtures thereof, and the like.
Non-steroidal cosmetic,soothi ng actives can be effective in preventing or treating inflammation of the skin. The soothing active enhances the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, e.g., such agents contribute to a more uniform and acceptable skin t one or color. Non-limiting examples of cosmetic soothing agents include the following categories: propionic acid derivatives; acetic acid derivatives; fenamic acid der svatives; mixtures thereof and the like. Many of these cosmetic soothing actives are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,985,459 to Sunshine et al., issued Jan. 15, 1991, incorpo rated by reference herein in its entirety.
Artificial tanning actives can help in simulating a natural suntan by increasing melanin zn the skin or by producing the appearance of increased melan Zn in the skin. Non-limiting examples of artificial tannin g agents and accelerators include dihydroxyacetaone; tyrosine; tyrosine esters such as ~5 ethyl tyrosinate and glucose tyrosinate; mixtures thereof, and the like.
Skin lightening actives can actually decrease the amount of melanin in the skin or provide such an effect by other mechanisms. Non-limiting examples of skin lightening actives useful herein include aloe extract, alpha-glyceryl-Z-ascorbic acid, aminotyroxine, ammonium lactate, glycolic acid, hydroquinone, 4 hydraxyanisole, mixtures thereof, and the like.
Also useful herein are sunscreen a dives. A wide variety of sunscreen agents are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445, to Haffey et al., issued Feb. 11, 1992; U.S. Pat. No.
5,073,372, to Turner et al., issue d Dec. 17, 1991; U.S. Pat.
No. 5,073,371, to Turner et al. issued Dec. 17, 1991; and Segarin, et al., at Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., of Cosmetics Science and Technology, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Non-limiting examples of sunscreens which are useful in the compositions of the present invent ion are those selected from octyl methoxyl cinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxy benzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N,N -dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p- aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenz:imidazole-5-sulfonic acid, oxybenzone, mixtures thereof, and the like.
Sebum stimulators can increase the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Non-limiting examples of sebum stimulating actives include bryono lic acid, dehydroetiandrosterone (DHEA), orizanol, mixtures thereof, and the like.
Sebum inhibitors can decrease the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Non-limiting examples of useful sebum inhibiting actives include aluminum hydroxy chloride, corticosteroids, dehydroacetic aci d and its salts, dichlorophenyl imidazoldioxolan (available from Elubiol), mixtures thereof, and the like.
Also useful as actives in the present invention are protease inhibitors. Protease inhibitors can be divided into two general classes: the proteinases and the peptidases.
Proteinases act on specific interior peptide bonds of proteins and peptidases act on peptide b ands adjacent to a free amino or carboxyl group on the end of a protein and thus cleave the protein from the outside. The protease inhibitors suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, protein aces such as serine proteases, metalloproteases, cysteine proteases, and aspartyl protease, and peptidases, such as carboxypepidases, dipeptidases and aminopepidases, mixture s thereof and the like.
Other useful as active ingredients in the present invention are skin tightening agents. Non-limitin g examples of skin tightening agents which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include monomers which can bind a polymer to the skin such as terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, (meth)acrylic acid and a hydrophobic monomer comprised of long chain alkyl (meth)acrylates, mixtures thereof, and the like.
Active ingredients in the present invent.i.on may also include anti-itch ingredients. Suitable examples of anti-itch ingredients which are useful in the comp ositions of the present invention include hydrocortisones methdilizine and trimeprazineare, mixtures thereof, and the like.

Non-limiting examples of hair growth inhibitors which are useful in the compositions of the present invent ion include 17 beta estradiol, anti-angiogenic steroids, curcuma extract, cycloxygenase inhibitors, evening primrose oil, linolei c acid and the like. Suitable 5-alpha r eductase inhibit ors such as ethynylestradiol and, genist ine mixtures thereof, and the like.
Non-limiting examples of desquamating enzyme enhancers which are use ~ul in the compositions of the present invention include alanine, aspartic acid, N methyl serine, serine, trimeth~l glycine, mixtures thereof, and the like.
A non-1 zmiting example of an anti-glycation agent which is useful in the compositions of the present invent ion would be Amadorine (available from Barnet Products Distrs butor), and the like .
EXAMPLE S
The invention will now be described in greater detail by way of the following non-limiting examples. The ex~.mples are for illustrative purposes only and not intended to limit the invention in any way. Physical test methods are described below.
Except sn the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwi s a explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts or ratios of mat erials or conditions or reaction, physical properties of materials and/o r use are to be understood as modified by the word "about" .
Where used in the specification, the term "comprising" is intended to include the presence of stated features, rote g ers, steps, components, but not to preclude the presence or addition of one or more features, integer s, step s, components or groups thereof.
All percentages in the specification and examples are intended to be by weight unless stated otherwise.
Examples 1 to 11 (Isotropic Structure) Examples of the inventive cleansing compositions (examples 1 - 7 below) were prepared, and their stability and visual effect on skin and tile substrates after rinse off were compared to non-inventive compositions (examples 8 - 1 1 below). The inventive compositions were found to provide a significant change in skin and tile appearance compare d to the comparative examples.
Examples 1 - 11 Exam Ales Inventive/ Inv.Inv.Inv.Inv.Inv.Inv.Inv.Com Com ComCom com arative Components (/NCI name) (% Active b wt.) Ammonium 5.02 5.024.145.024.875.025.02 4.875.02 Lau I Sulfate (1) Ammonium 3.98 3.983.283.983.863.983.98 3.863.98 Laureth Sulfate (1) Cocamide 0.86 0.860.710.860.840.860.86 0.840.86 MEA

(1) PEG-5 Cocamide0.43 0.430.360.430.420.430.43 0.420.43 (1) Sodium Laureth 10 10.15 Sulfate (2) Cocamidopropyl1.8 2 1.5 1.8 1.5 1.8 0.8 2 1.50.8 Betaine (3) Acrylates 1.2 1.2 1.21.4 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.5 1.2 1.21.5 Co of mer

(4) Guar 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Hydroxypropyltri monium chloride

(5) Polyquaternium-6 1.5 (6 Polyquaternium- 0.1 0.1 (7) Wheatgermamido 0.2 propyl dimethylamine hydrolized wheat protein (8) PEG-14M 0.15 (9) PEG-45M 0.05 (10) Mica and 0.5 0.5 0.450.450.9 0.45 Ti02 (10-150Nm)(11) Mica and 0.050.050.1 0.050.5 Ti02 and iron oxide (10-150~tm)(12) Mica and 0.05 Ti02 (<50 m)(13) Mica and 0.01 Ti02 and iron oxide (10-150pm)(14) Mica and 0.07 Ti02 and iron oxide (5-100Nm)(15) Mica and 0.5 Ti02 (5-25 m)(16) Mica and 0.5 Ti02 and triethoxy ca r I Isilane(17) Pol eth lene (18) GI cerin 1 1 1 0.5 1 1.251 0.5 1.250.5 Shea Butter 0.01 0.01 Divinyldimethicone 0.9 0.9 l Dimethicone copol mer Prop lene 1.75 1.1 0.15 0.65 I col Sodium chloride 0.8 0.75 Ammonium 1.10.2 0.2 0.5 chloride Methylchloroiso-3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 thiazolinone and methylisothiazol-inone (x 10-4) DMDM H dantoin 0.1 Sodium Benzoate 0.5 Tetrasodium 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 EDTA (x 10-Z) Citric acid 0.4 Sodium hydroxide1 0.40.2 0.2 1 1 2 0.751 1.5 (x 10-~ ) Benzo henone-4 0.1 Fra rance 1.3 0.9 0.60.8 0.6 0.6 0.6 1.3 0.9 0.60.6 Water q.s.q.s.q.s,q.s.q.s.q.s.q.s.q.s.q.s.q.s.q.s.

to to to to to to to to to to to 100 100 100100 '100100 100 100 100 100100 Pro erties Viscosity 2.3 1.971.5 2.352.34 1.9 0.942.451.45 (x 10"), cps (21 ) H (25C 5.5 5.5 5.56.6 5.5 6.5 5.4 6.3 4.6 6.76.6 Stability yes yes yesyes yes yes yes yes yes no yes (yes/no) (22) (22a) (22a) (22a) Visual effectYes,Yes,Yes,Yes,Yes,Yes,No, No, No, No,No, determinationcon con labcon !ab tile/lab tile/con tiletile/

(yes/no, lab lab lab method used (23 Glitter count (24) 5 5~ ~~
Notes (1)ALMEO blend Stepan (2)EMAL 270 Huntsman (3)Tegobetaine F Goldschmidt (4)Aqua SF-1 Noveon (5)Jaguar Rhodia

(6)Merquat 100 Ondeo Nalco

(7)Polymer JR-400 Amerchol

(8)Mackpro WWP McIntyre

(9)Polyox WSR N-3000 Amerchol

(10)Polyox WSR N-60K Amerchol

(11)Timiron MP-149 EMD Chemicals

(12)Colorona Glitter Copper EMD Chemicals

(13)Flamenco Ultra Sparkle 4500 Englehard

(14)Timiron MP-24 EMD Chemicals

(15)Timiron MP-25 EMD Chemicals

(16)Timiron MP-1001 EMD Chemicals

(17)Timiron MP-1001AS Cardre

(18)Microthene MN711/20 Equistar

(19)Cetiol SB-45 Cognis

(20)HMW 2220 Nonionic Emulsion Dow Corning

(21) Brookfield RVDV-I+, CP 41, 0.5rpm; 25°C.
Viscosity is adjusted by adding salt (s) such as ammonium chloride or sulfate or sodium chloride to increase viscosity and propylene gL ycol to decrease viscosity as the case may be.

(22) Stability test (see method beL ow) (22a) Evaluated for stability only at room temperature, and only by visual ins pection (not viscosity) and were stable.

(23) Yes/No: see criteria in method discussion below.
Methods: con = consumer evaluation, lab = lab evaluation, tile = tile evaluation, tile/lab = tile and lab evaluation

(24) See glitter count method below.
Example preparation details:
Examples 1, 6, and 8 Add water (49 %) and start heating to 55°C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer At 55°C, add ALMEO blend; mix 10-20 min Add shea butter Add betaine Add quench water (15 % of batch) Add NaOH soln Add Jaguar submix (Jaguar, glycerin, propylene glycol) Add Timiron submix (Timiron + 2 % water) Add Versene 100 Adjust pH to 5.5 At 45°C, add Kathon At 40°C, add fragrance Adjust viscosity to 18,000-25,000 cps Example 2 Add water (37.6 %) and start heating to 60°C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer Add EDTA
Add betaine Add SLES at 60°C
Mix until homogeneous Add water (30 %) Add NaCI
Add glycerin/Jaguar submix Add NaOH
Add Timiron/water premix (Timiron + 2 % water) Under 45°C add Glydant At 40°C, add fragrance Adjust pH to 5.5 Adjust viscosity to 10,000 cps Example 3 Add water (37.6 %) and start heating to 60°C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer Add EDTA
Add betaine Add SLES at 60°C
Mix until homogeneous Add water (30 %) Add NaCI
Add NaOH
Add Timiron/water premix (Timiron + 2 % water) Under 45°C add Glydant At 40°C, add fragrance Adjust pH to 5.5 Adjust viscosity to 10,000 cps Add polyethylene particles Example 4 Add water (47 %) and start heating to 55°C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer At 55°C, add ALMEO blend; mix 10-20 min Add glycerin Add Versene 100 Add water (15 %) Add betainelMerquat 100 submix Slowly add Timiron/water submix (Timiron + 2 °/~ water) Adjust pH to 5.5 At 45°C, add Kathon At 40°C, add fragrance Adjust viscosity to 18,000-25,000 cps Example 5 Add water (50 %) Add Aqua SF-1 Add Almeo Begin to heat to 65°C
Once at Temp and dissolved add all of NaOH
Add Glycerin/Polyox submix mix Add Versene Add Remaining water Add Betaine Add Mackpro Add Timiron/water submix (Timiron + 2 % water) Let cool At 45°C, add Kathon At 40°C, add fragrance Example 7 Add water (47 %) and start heating to 60°C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer Add ALMEO blend; mix 10-20 min Add glycerin/Polyox submix (0.5 % glycerin) At 60°C and dissolved add NaOH
Add Versene Add water (20 %) Add betaine Add Jaguar/0.75 % glycerin/propylene glycol premix Let cool At 45°C add Kathon Add Timiron premix At 40°C add fragrance Add HMW 2220 Adjust pH to 6.5 Adjust viscosity to 18,000-24,000 cps Examples 9 and 12 Add water (56 %) and start heating to 55°C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer At 55°C, add ALMEO blend; mix 10-20 min Add shea butter Add Versene 100 Add quench water (14 %) Add betaine Add glycerin Add Uvinul At 45°C, add Kathon At 40°C, add fragrance/polymer JR400 submix Add NaOH solution to pH 6.5 Add Flamencolwater submix (2 % water) Adjust viscosity to 14,000-19,000 cps Example 10 Add water (39 %) and start heating to 60°C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer Add betaine Add SLES
Mix until homogeneous Add water (30 %) Add NaOH solution Add NaCI solution Add Timiron/water premix (2 % water) At 45°C, add sodium benzoate Add citric acid Add Euperlan Add fragrance Adjust pH to 4.7 Adjust viscosity to 10,000 cps Example 11 Add water (47 %) and start heating to 60°C
Add Aqua SF1 polymer Add ALMEO blend; mix 10-20 min Add glycerin (0.5 %) At 60°C and dissolved add NaOH
Add Versene Add water (20 %) Add betaine Add Jaguar/0.75 % glycerin/propylene glycol premix At 45°C add Kathon At 40°C add fragrance Add HMW 2220/Timiron premix Adjust pH to 6.5 Adjust viscosity to 18,000-24,000 cps Examples 1A to 7A (Lamellar Structure) Examples of the inventive cleansing compositions (examples 1a - 5a below) were prepared and their stability and visual effect on skin and tile substrates after rinse off were compared to non-inventive compositions (examples 6a - 7a below). The inventive compositions were found to provide a significant change in skin and tile appearance compared to the comparative examples.

Examples la - 7a Examples 1a 2a 3a 4a 5a 6a 7a Inventive/ComparativeInv. Inv. Inv. Inv. Inv. Comp.Comp.

Component (INCI
name) (% Active by wt.) Ammonium Lauryl 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.9 Sulfate (1) Ammonium Laureth 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 Sulfate (1) Cocamide MEA (1 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 0.67 ) PEG-5 Cocamide (1) 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.33 Cocamidopropyl Betaine4 4 4 4 4 4 4 (2) Cocamide MEA (3) 1.05 1 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 Laurie Acid (4) 1.2 4 2.5 2.5 1 2.5 2.5 Guar Hydroxpropyl 0.7 0.5 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Trimonium Chloride (5) Glycerin 5.7 2 5.7 5.7 5.7 5.7 5.7 Sunflower Seed Oil 21.3 2.5 5 5 21.3 5 5 Petrolatum (5a) 3.7 2.5 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 3.7 Cholesterol/lanolin0.46 0.46 alcohol (6) Mica and Ti02 (7) 1 0.45 0.5 1 Mica and Ti02 and 0.05 0.5 iron oxide 8) Bismuth Oxychloride 1 and eth Ihex I h drox stearate (9) Mica and Ti02 and 1 triethox ca r I
Isilane (10) DMDM Hydantoin 0.0550.0550.0550.0550.0550.0550.055 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 Etidronic Acid 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 Fragrance 1 0.6 1 1 1 1 1 DI Water to to to to to to to Properties:

Viscosity (x 104) 8.64 7.25 6.76 9.56 (cps) 25C
(11) Viscosity (x 104) 1.186 cps 25C
(12 pH (25C) 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.6 5.7 5.5 5.5 Stability (13) stablestablestablestablestablestablestable (13a)(13a) Visual effect determinationYes, Yes, Yes, Yes, Yes, No, No, ( es/no, method con lab tile tile lab lab lab used (14) Dotes (1) AZMEO blend Stepan (2) Tegobetaine F Goldschmidt (3) Mackamide CMA McIntyre (4) Prifrac 2922 Uniqema (5) Jaguar C13S Rhodia (5a) G-1937 Hard Penreco (6) Super Hartolan Croda (7)Timiron MP-149 (10-150um) EMD Chemicals (8) Colorona Glitter EMD Chemicals Copper(10-150um) (9) Biron hiquid Silver EMD Chemicals (10) Timiron MP-1001AS Cardre (11) Brookfield RV DV-II+, T-bar, 0.5 rpm.
(12) Brookfield RVDV-I+, CP 41, 0.5 rpm.
(13) Stability test (see method below) (13a) Evaluated for stability only at room temperature, and only by visual inspection (not viscosity), and were stable.
(14) Yes/No: see criteria in method discussion below.
Methods: con = consumer evaluation, lab = lab evaluation, tile = tile evaluation, tile/lab = tile and lab evaluation (see below for methods) (15) See glitter count method below.
Example preparation details Examples 1 a, 5a Add sunflower oil (14,3 %) Add Super Hartolan and CMEA
Add lauric acid and petrolatum Heat to 70°C until all dissolved Add glycerin Stop heating Add water (7 %) Add betaine Add ALMEO blend; mix until smooth Add rest of water (27 %) Add particles Add Jaguar/? % oil blend Add EDTA and EHDP
Add Glydant Add fragrance Mix until cools to 35°C
Examples 2a, 3a, 4a, 6a, 7a Add water (40 %) Add betaine; start heating to 70°C
Add CMEA at 60°C
Mix until dissolved Add ALMEO; mix until smooth Stop heating at 70°C
Heat premix to 70°C
(premix = oil, lauric acid, petrolatum, Timiron) When premix is at 70°C, add to batch Add rest of water (17 %) Add Jaguar/glycerin blend Add EDTA and EHDP
Add Glydant Add fragrance Methods Stabilitv Method Samples are stored at the following conditions and evaluated at the following time points.
Condition Time Evaluations Evaluation Points Room 12 weeks Viscosity, VisualInitial Temperature 1 day 1, 2, 4, 8, weeks 40C 12 weeks Visual only 1, 2, 4, 8, weeks 50C 1 week Viscosity, Visual1 week -9C/25C cycle 3 cycles (6 Viscosity, Visual1 week days) (24 hours at each temp.) Viscosity: Measured by the method indicated for each example Visual evaluation: color, odor, and appearance A sample is considered stable if its viscosity and visual evaluation do not change significantly (i.e. greater than 20 o relative) from the initial measurements at all conditions.
Tile evaluation method Prepare clay tiles with tan colored Sculpey II Polymer Clay (Polyform Products, Elk Grove, LL) by kneading clay, then rolling to a uniform thickness (2-3mm) with a rolling pin.
Cut 1'° by 1'° squares and press down 100 grain sandpaper on each square to make an even impression of the sandpaper on the clay. Bake for 15 minutes at 120°C and cool.
Wash tiles by placing 0.1g product on a wet tile. Add 0.2g water and rub for 15 seconds with a latex gloved finger.
Rinse with tap water at 35-45°C at a flow rate of 13-14 ml/sec, holding the tile 5 cm away at a 45-degree angle.
Blot once with a paper towel and air dry for 15 minutes.
Visually evaluate the quantity of optical particles left on the tiles.
Yes = At least 15 sparkles visible on a tile.
No = less than this value.
Hand wash (Consumer evaluation) method Give the product to naive consumers to use according to the following instructions: "Use similar to your regular body was h, applying to wet skin, sponge, washcloth, or pouf.
Wor k into a lather and rinse.°' Ask consumers if they saw any change in the appearance of their skin, e.g. whether the it skin looked radiant, shimmery, lustrous, glowing, etc.
Naive consumers are defined as consumers that have not been trained in any way - in the use of the product or in what to loo k for on the skin.
Yes - at least 51 0 of consumers report seeing a visual change .
No - less than this value.
Hand wash (lab evaluation) method Dispense approximately 1.5g product on wet hands. Rub hands together to generate lather, adding water as needed. Rinse hands under running water at 35-45°C until hands feel clean.
Pat dry with paper towel. Inspect hands visually for opt ical particles left behind.
Yes - At least 5 sparkles/cm2 visible on hands.
No - less than this value.
Til e/lab evaluation method is a combination of the Tile evaluation method and the lab evaulation method.
In- vitro Visual Assessment Protocol (Porcine/pia skin assa Take a piece of black porcine skin (L= 40 ~ 3) with the dimensions of 5.0 cm x 10.0 cm and mount it on a black background paper card. Initial measurements are made of the untreated skin. The mounted skin is then washed 1 to 2 minutes with "normal" rubbing with the composition to be tested and rinsed for 1/2 minute with 45°C tap water. After 2 hours of drying at 25°C, the final measurements for color L, a*, b*; reflectivity and opacity are made.
Color Measurements The initial and final color measurements of porcine or in-vivo human skin are made with a Hunter Lab spectracolormeter using a 0° light source and 45° detector geometry. The spectracolormeter is calibrated with the appropriate black and white standards. Measurements are made before and after the wash treatment. Three measurements are made each time and averaged. The values obtained are L, a*, b*, which come from the La*b ~ color space representation.
Opacity Determination The opacity of the skin treated by the cleansing composition can be derive d from the hunter Lab color measurements. The opacity contrast value is calculated from the delta L (which is the change in whiteness after deposition) divided by 60 (which is the difference in L value of the skin and a pure white color).
Reflectance o r Radiance Determination The initial and ffi nal reflectance/radiance measurement of porcine or in-viva human skin is made with a glossmeter before and after treatment with the cleansing composition.
The glossmeter is first set with both the detector and light source at 85° from normal. Then the glossmeter is calibrated with an appropriat a reflection standard. Measurements are made before and after application and rinsing off of the cleansing composition and the percent difference calculated.
Since a noticeabl a change in the skin when treated with the inventive composition may provide only scattered areas of skin appearance enhancement (such as point sparkle, glitter, etc.) instead of a continuous change over a wider expanse of the skin better suited to instrumental analysis using the glossmeter etc; for the purposes of defining the level of skin appearance change required to be shown for the inventive composition, a "yes" result in either the Tile method, the Consumer method, the Hand wash (lab) method, or any combination thereof is to be considered equivalent to at least a 5 o change in reflectivity when the inventive cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol.
In-viva Glitter C aunt Glitter count is a useful indicator regarding deposition but must be supplemented with other visual appearance methods to establish whether a sufficient change in visual appearance exists.
Method Wash a 5 cm by 10 cm sect ion of an inside forearm of a human panelist with the cleansing composition for 1 to 2 minutes with "normal" rubbing and rinse for 1/2 minute with 45°C tap water. Let air dry for 20 min (no wiping) at 25°C. Then, under an intense light source or sunlight, count the number of sparkles seen in the washed area. The minimum number of sparkles counted consider ed for a 'good" deposition is 2.
The results are compared to a control consisting of the surfactant system and dei onized water alone. The glitter count of the control is zero (i.e. no observable deposition).
Cone and Plate Viscosity Measurement Scope This method covers the measurement of the viscosity of the isotropic phase cleansing composition.
Apparatus Brookfield Cone and Plate DV-II+ Viscometer.
Spindle 541.
Procedure 1. Turn on Water Bath attached to the sample cup of the viscometer. Make sur a that it is set for 25°C. Allow temperature readout t o stabilize at 25°C before proceeding.

2. With the power to the ~riscometer off, remove the spindle (S41) by turning count erclockwise.
3. Turn the power on and press any key as requested to autozero the viscomete r.
4. When the autozero function is complete, replace the spindle (turning clockwise) and press any key.
5. Attach the sample cup. Using the up/down arrow keys, slowly change the spee d to 10 rpm and press the SET
SPEED key. Use the SELECT DISPLAY key so that the display is in o mode.' 6. Turn the motor on. If the display jumps to 0.4 0 or higher or will not set t le to 0 ~0.1 0, turn the adjustment ring clockwise until it does.
7. Rotate the adjustment ring counterclockwise until the reading is fluctuating between 0.0 and 1.0 0. The fluctuation must occur approximately every 6 seconds.
8. Turn the adjustment ring clockwise exactly the width of one division from the setting reached in step 7.

9. Turn the motor off. Using the up/down arrow keys, slowly change the speed to 0.5 rpm and press the SET
SPEED key. Use the SELECT DISPLAY so that the display is in cP.
10. Place 2 ~ O.lg of product to be measured into the sample cup. Attach the cup to the viscometer.
11. Allow the product to remain in the cup with the motor OFF for 2 minutes.
12. Turn the motor ON and allow the spindle to turn for 2 minutes before noting the reading on the display.
T- bar Viscosity Measurement Scope Th is method covers the measurement of the viscosity of the ordered liquid crystalline cleansing composition.
Apparatus Br ookfield RVT Viscometer with Helipath Accessory.
Clzuck, weight and closer assembly for T-bar attachment.
T-bar Spindle A.
PL astic cups diameter greater than 2.5 inches.

n~.~.....~"~.~
1. Verify that the viscometer and the helipath stand are level by referring to the bubble levels on the back of the instrument.
2. Connect the chuck/closer/weight assembly to the Viscometer. (Note the left-hand coupling threads).
3. Clean Spindle A with deionized water and pat dry with a Kimwipe sheet. Slide the spindle in the closer and tighten.
4. Set the rotational speed at 0.5 RPM. In case of a digital viscometer (DV) select the o mode and press autozero with the motor switch on.
5. Place the product in a plastic cup with inner diameter of greater than 2.5 inches. The height of the product in the cup should be at least 3 inches. The temperature of the product should be 25°C.
6. Lower the spindle into the product (~1/4 inches). Set the adjustable stops of the helipath stand so that the spindle does not touch the bottom of the plastic cup or come out of the sample.
7. Start the viscometer and allow the dial to make one or two revolutions before turning on the Helipath stand.
Note the dial reading as the helipath stand passes the middle of its downward traverse.

8. Multiply the dial reading biz a factor of 4,000 and report the viscosity reading in cps.
While this invention has been described with respect to particular embodiments thereof, it is apparent that numerous other forms and modifications o ~ the invention will be obvious to those skilled in the art. The appended claims and this invention generally sh~uld be construed to cover all such obvious forms and modifications which are within the true spirit and scope of the present invention.

Claims (20)

1. ~A liquid cleansing composition comprising:
(a) 1 % to 35 wt. % of surfactant(s) selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactant or mixtures thereof;
(b) 0.1 % to 10 % of a cationic polymer; and, (c) an effective concentration of a solid particulate optical modifier for exhibiting a specific set of optical properties on skin characterized by one or more skin evaluation methods selected from Tile evaluation method, Hand wash (consumer evaluation) method, Hand wash (lab evaluation) method, or a set of Tristimulus Color Values Z, a*, and b*; a reflectivity change, and an opacity change, that provides at least a 5 % change in at least one of the specific optical properties when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol.

2. ~A composition according to claim 1 further comprising:
(a) a thickening agent;
(b) wherein the viscosity of the cleansing composition is in the range of 1,000 to 300,000 cps, preferably 5,000 to 50,000 cps @ 1/sec shear rate at 25°C using the Cone and Plate method; and, (c) wherein the cleansing composition is isotropic.

3. ~A composition according to claim 1 or claim 2 further comprising:

(a) 3 % to 30 % by weight of a surfactant system including at least one surfactant selected from an anionic, amphoteric, cationic and nonionic surfactant and mixtures thereof, wherein at least one anionic surfactant must be present;
(b) 0.1 % to 15 % by wt. of an ordered liquid crystalline phase a inducing structurant for inducing an ordered liquid crystalline phase in said cleansing composition; preferably wherein the ordered liquid crystalline phase inducing structurant is selected from a C8 to C24 alkenyl or branched alkyl fatty acid or ester thereof, a C8 to C24 alkenyl or branched alkyl alcohol or ether thereof, a C5 to C14 linear alkyl fatty acid, trihydroxystearin, or derivatives or mixtures thereof; more preferably wherein the ordered liquid crystalline phase inducing structurant is selected from lauric acid, oleic acid, palm kernel acid, palm fatty acid, coconut acid, isostearic acid, or derivatives or mixtures thereof; and still more preferably where in the ordered liquid crystalline phase has lamellar structure;
(c) wherein the ordered liquid crystalline phase composition has a viscosity of 40,000 to 300,000 cps at 25°C as measured via the T-bar method; and (d) wherein said ordered liquid crystalline phase composition contains less than 0.025 % by weight of an organic, non-crosslinked, cationic homopolymer or copolymer having a cationic charge density of from 2 meq/gm to 10 meq/gm and an average molecular weight of from 1,000 to 5,000,000.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the visual attribute targeted by the optical modifier is selected from skin shine, skin color or skin optical uniformity, and combinations thereof.

5. A composition according to claim 4 wherein the change in L value is in the range from 0 to ~10, the reflectance change is in the range from 0 to ~300 %, and the change in opacity is in the range from 0 to ~20 % with the proviso that the change in L value, reflectance change and opacity change are not all zero so as to provide noticeable skin shine when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol; preferably wherein greater than 10 % by wt. of the particulate optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions wherein:
i) ~the exterior surface has a refractive index of 1.8 to 4.0;
ii) ~the geometry is platy, cylindrical or a blend thereof; and iii) ~the specific dimensions are 10 to 200 µm average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 10 to 200 µm in average length and 0.5 to 5.0 µm in average diameter in the case of a cylindrical particle.

6. A composition according to claim 4 wherein the change in Z value is in t he range from 0 to ~10, the change in the a* value is in the range from 0 to ~10, the change in the b* value is in the range from 0 to ~10, the change in opacity is i n the range from 0 to ~50 %, and the reflectance change is within the normal skin reflectivity range of +10 %, with the proviso that the change in L value, b* and opacity change are not all zero so as to provide noticeable skin lightening or color change when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and the n rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol; preferably wherein greater than 10 % by wt. of the particulate optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions wherein:
i) the exterior surface has a refractive index of 1.3 to 4.0;
ii) the geometry is spheroidal, platy or a blend thereof;
iii) the specific dimensions are 1 to 30µm average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 0.1 to 1 µm in average diameter in the case of a spheroidal particle; and iv) optionally having fluorescence color, absorption color, interference color or a combination thereof.

7. The composition according to claim 4 wherein the change in Z value is in the range from 0 to ~5, the reflectance change is in the range from 0 to ~100 %, the change in opacity is in the range from 0 to ~50 %, and the change in a* and b* are within normal skin color range of ~10 %
for each of a* or b*, with the proviso that the change in L value, reflectance change and opacity change are not all zero so as to provide noticeable skin optical uniformity change when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol; preferably wherein greater than 10 o by wt. of the particulate optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions wherein:
i) the exterior surface has a refractive index of 1.3 to 2.0 ii) the geometry is spheroidal, platy, cylindrical or a blend thereof iii) the specific dimensions are 0.1 to 200 µm in average diameter in the case of a spheroidal particle, 1 to 10 um average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 1 to 10 µm in average length and 0.5 to 5.0 um in average diameter in the case of a cylindrical particle, and iv) optionally having fluorescence color, absorption color, interference color or a combination thereof.

8. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4 wherein the particulate optical modifier is composed predominately of platy particles further defined by having an average plate diameter of 10 µm to 200 µm and a refractive index of at least 1.8; and more preferably wherein t he particulate optical modifier contains a surface modification selected from amino acids, proteins, fatty acids, lipids, phospholipids (lecithin), anionic and/or cationic oligomers/polymers or blends or derivatives thereof to enhance the deposition of the optical modifier on to the skin.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the cationic polymer has a charge density of at least 0.7 Meq/g; preferably wherein the cationic polymer is selected from Merquat® 100 or 2200, Jaguar® C17 or C13S, Salcare® Supre 7, SC10, or SC30; Gafquat ® HS100 or 755, and Luviquat® FC370, FC550, HM552 or FC905; or blends thereof.

10. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the composition contains an anionic surfactant;
preferably wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from a C8-C16 alkyl sulfate and/or alkyl ether sulfates, fatty aci d soaps, taurates, sulfosuccinates, glycinates, sarcosinates or blends thereof and the amphoteric surfactant is selected from amphoacetates, betaines and amidoalkyl betaines or derivatives or blends thereof;
and the ratio of anionic surfactant to a surfactant that has a positive charge at a pH of 6.5 or below is in the range of 15:1 to 1:2; more preferably wherein the surfactant with the positive charge is an amphoteric surfactant; and still more preferably wherein the amphoteric.surfactant is selected from betaine, alkylamidopropyl betaine, sulphobetaine, amphoacetate or blends thereof.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising an emollient having a weight average emollient particle size in the range of 1 to 500 microns; preferably wherein the composition contains less than 10 % by wt. of hydrophobic emollient(s).

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising greater than 30 % by weight water.

13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the solid particulate optical modifier has an average diameter of at least 30 microns.

14. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the solid particulate optical modifier is present in a minimum concentration of at least 0.2 % by wt.

15. A composition according to any one of claims 2 to 14 wherein the thickening agent is selected from polyacrylates; silica, natural and synthetic waxes;
aluminum silicate; lanolin derivatives; C8 to C20 fatty alcohols polyethylene copolymers; polyammonium carboxylates; sucrose esters; hydrophobic clays;
petrolatum; hydrotalcites; cellulose derivatives, polysaccharide derivatives, or derivatives and mixtures thereof .

1C. A composition according to any one of claims 2 to 15 wherein the composition is structured with a structurant selected from swelling clays; cross-linked polyacrylates; acrylate homopolymers and copolymers;
polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and copolymers;
polyethylene imines; inorganic salts; sucrose esters, gellants or blends and derivatives thereof.

17. A composition according to any one of claims 2 to 16 wherein less than 50 % by wt. of the solid particulate optical modifier is suspended in an oil.

18. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims having at least 7 wt %; preferably 10 to 25 wt %
of the surfactant.

19. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the particulate optical modifier is selected from organic pigments, inorganic pigments, polymers, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, colored iron oxide, chromium oxide/hydroxide/hydrate, alumina, silica, zirconia, barium sulfate, silicates, polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon, ultramarine, alkaline earth carbonates, talc, sericite, mica, synthetic mica, polymers, platy substrate coated with organic and inorganic materials, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, or blends and physical aggregates thereof; preferably wherein the particulate optical modifier possesses color generated through fluorescence, adsorption, iridescence or a combination thereof.

20. A method of depositing a solid particulate optical modifier onto the skin from a liquid cleansing composition according to any of the preceeding claims, or a blend thereof, comprising the steps of:
(a) providing said solid particulate optical modifier in said cleansing composition;
(b) applying said cleansing composition to the skin or hair; and (c) rinsing off said cleansing composition.