CN104363880A - Cosmetic method for brightening skin and/or lips - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for lightening and/or homogenizing the colour, in particular of the skin and/or the lips, comprising the application to the skin or the lips, in particular of the skin of the face and/or of the shadow surrounding the eyes, of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition comprising: white particles that are at least non-interference scattering, characterized by a volume average particle diameter (D50) of 0.3 to 40 μm and a Refractive Index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, in a content of greater than or equal to, preferably absolutely greater than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably of 2% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and (ii) particles with a refractive index of greater than or equal to, preferably absolutely greater than 2.3, of 0% to 2% by weight.

Description

Cosmetic method for brightening skin and/or lips

The present invention relates to the field of non-therapeutic cosmetic lightening (also known as whitening) of the color of the skin and/or lips, especially the lightening of the complexion, with natural and transparent cosmetic results, without the introduction of materials.

People with pigmented skin or with pigmented blemishes, rosacea, or dark shadows around the eyes often want to correct these skin pigmentation changes and use cosmetic or dermatological compositions for this purpose that have the potential to brighten and even out the complexion . For this purpose, it is known practice to use cosmetic compositions comprising whitening agents.

The substances most commonly used as whitening agents are hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives, azelaic acid, arbutin and its derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives, alone or in combination with other active agents. substances (such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or ascorbyl glucoside).

However, it is necessary to use these agents for a long time and in high doses in order to observe a whitening effect on the skin. Furthermore, no immediate effect was observed after application of the compositions comprising them.

It is known practice to use products comprising interference pigments, which, although they can hide skin imperfections, especially color imperfections, show the major drawback of giving the skin a luminous, rather unnatural appearance. Furthermore, these pigments have the outstanding characteristic of providing a pearlescent appearance and intense coloration in the products in which they are present.

It is also known practice to use cosmetic compositions capable of uniforming the complexion and optionally imparting an instant white appearance, consisting of powders dispersed in a binder. The powders are generally white pigments (titanium dioxide) or colored pigments (iron oxides) depending on the desired effect and/or fillers of different shapes (lamellar, spherical) depending on the desired effect.

One of these approaches consists in the deposition of white pigments, generally nanoscale titanium dioxide, which form the basis for cosmetic products of the "instant brightening" type: these products are characterized by ΔL > +1 (lightness).

Another more recent avenue lies in formulating titanium dioxide and iron oxides with highly desaturated shades compared to conventional foundations. In this way, once the product has been applied, the combination of the color of the product and the color of the skin results in a slightly desaturated appearance of the color, resulting in a perceived brightening of the skin. This is the approach of the product "BB Cream – Balm Blemish Cream". These products are characterized by ΔC< -1 (desaturation).

Thus, the finish is uniform in color, roughly due to the covering power provided by the pigments and fillers. A disadvantage of such compositions is that the softening of skin imperfections, especially color imperfections, is provided by the covering power of the composition. Due to the lack of transparency of these compositions, the skin so made up loses its natural appearance.

There is therefore still a need for a cosmetic composition which produces an immediate visible brightening of color without material effects and which is intended for topical application to the skin and/or lips, in particular the skin of the face and/or the shadows around the eyes or the contour of the eyes .

Surprisingly, we have demonstrated that the use of an effective amount of white particles as defined according to the invention leads (once applied) to a greatly perceived brightening of the color of the skin or lips with a natural effect at the same time. The term used is brightening, not material effect or "clear white" brightening.

Thus, to the best knowledge of the applicant company, the composition of the invention is characterized by an increase in lightness (a ΔL > +1), a loss of saturation (ΔC < -1) and a high transmittance not present in existing cosmetic products .

In fact, these particles display a very unique balance between light scattering and opacity, making it possible to form dosage forms containing high levels of conventional white particles without causing unnatural effects after application.

The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for lightening and/or equalizing especially the color of the skin and/or lips, especially the complexion, comprising applying Surrounding shadow coating with at least one layer of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least Non-interferentially scattering white particles in an amount greater than or equal to, preferably absolutely greater than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and comprising a refractive index 0% to 2% by weight of particles (eg titanium dioxide or iron oxide) greater than or equal to, preferably greater than 2.3 absolute.

According to the invention, by 'brightening (or whitening) and/or evening of the skin and/or lips' is meant the effect of the composition especially on the color of the skin and/or lips, especially the face, maintaining the color of the skin and/or lips. Natural effect (transparency) of lips.

This effect of the composition on color and color imperfections (such as spots or dark shadows around the eyes) is different from an equalizing effect obtained by blurring (also known as a 'soft focus' effect that does not involve color changes). In fact, the compositions of the present invention are intended to alter the color properties of the face or areas by brightening the color of the complexion, by softening the color of spots or shadows around the eyes, and not to achieve a 'blurring' effect.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be applied alone or before application of care products or make-up products.

The invention also relates to the use of an effective amount of such particles in a cosmetic composition as a brightening and/or leveling agent, especially for the color of the skin and/or lips, especially the complexion, in particular with the Instant effect on complexion or visibility of color by reducing spots or dark shadows around the eyes.

Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising non-interferentially scattering white particles and characterized by specific optical properties of transparency and coverage of the cosmetic surface.

In particular, another subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(i) at least non-interferentially scattering white particles characterized by a volume average particle diameter (D50) of 0.3 to 40 μm and a refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, preferably in an amount relative to the total weight of the composition of 4% by weight to 8% by weight,

(ii) 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index greater than or equal to, preferably absolutely greater than 2.3,

A transmittance of at least 75% and a coverage efficiency (contrast ratio/transmission) of at least 0.1 are exhibited, for example according to the measurement protocol disclosed below.

According to a particularly preferred form, boron nitride particles with a volume average particle diameter D50 of less than 6 μm, preferably in the range 0.3 to 6 μm, in particular 1.5 to 5 μm and preferably 1.5 to 3 μm, such as sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics under the name PUHP1030L will be used Those ones.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(i) at least non-interferentially scattering white particles, preferably boron nitride particles, characterized by a volume average particle diameter (D50) of 0.3 μm to 6 μm and a refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, relative to the combination The preferred content of the total weight of the substance is 4% by weight to 8% by weight,

(ii) 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index greater than or equal to, preferably absolutely greater than 2.3,

Said composition advantageously exhibits a transmission of at least 75% and a coverage efficiency (contrast ratio/transmission) of at least 0.1, for example according to the measurement protocol disclosed hereinafter.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(i) at least non-interferentially scattering white particles, preferably boron nitride particles, characterized by a volume average particle diameter (D50) of 0.3 μm to 6 μm and a refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, preferably with respect to said The total weight content of the composition is 4% to 8% by weight,

(ii) 0% to 2% by weight of particles with a refractive index greater than or equal to, preferably absolutely greater than 2.3,

After application on said skin and/or lips, said composition provides an increase in color brightness of ΔL > +1 and a loss of color saturation of ΔC < -1, for example according to the protocol of measurement disclosed hereinafter.

The compositions of the invention advantageously exhibit a high level of transparency (transmission), imparting a natural effect as a cosmetic result, without any masking effect.

The effect of the composition of the invention on skin tone can be measured by the following scheme:

Apply 100 mg of the composition to each side of the face. Subsequently, measurements were carried out by this method and with a Chromasphere device with a resolution of 410 x 410 pixels as described in patent FR 2 829 344. The L* (lightness) and C * (saturation) measurement. Do this on both cheeks.

The composition according to the invention exhibits an increase in color lightness with ΔL >+1 and a loss of color saturation with ΔC<-1 and advantageously high transparency, causing brightening of the cosmetic effect and/or color homogenization without any masking effect (natural Effect).

The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of gels, serums, direct, reverse and multiple emulsions, hot cast sticks, loose or compact powders.

The compositions according to the invention make it possible to impart immediately on the skin or lips to which they are applied, and especially on the complexion, improved qualities in terms of homogeneity, homogeneity, transparency and whiteness. These compositions may also exhibit concealment properties.

The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to reduce the perception of color defects of the skin, ie in particular erythema.

White particles that scatter non-interferentially

The term "scattering particles" is understood to mean particles which have light scattering which does not exhibit a favorable direction. Therefore, particles having an optical interference effect (referred to as "interfering" particles) are specifically excluded therefrom. Particles exhibiting a luminescence effect, for example metal particles or particles with a metallic effect such as bismuth oxychloride, are likewise excluded from this.

The term "white" is understood to mean particles having a white tinge and its derivatives (off-white, cream, etc.), as opposed to the primary and derivatives.

Specifically, the white particles have a brightness value L* close to 100 in the CIELab76 system.

The scattered white particles according to the invention exhibit an average refractive index of 1.7 to 2.2. This is because, if the particles have a refractive index greater than 2.2, the opacity of the composition is too high, and if the refractive index is less than 1.7, the brightness enhancing effect is insufficient.

The white particles according to the invention have a continuous effect which is controlled by the resolving power of the eye. Since the capacity is about 40 μm, particles with a volume average particle diameter (D50) of less than 40 μm, preferably less than 25 μm and still better still less than or equal to 6 μm are considered. However, make sure to use particles with a D50 greater than 0.3 μm and preferably 0.5 μm, so as not to lose too much opacity, which is extremely detrimental to the desired effect.

Accordingly, the composition of the invention comprises at least one particle exhibiting an average refractive index between 1.7 and 2.2 and a volume particle size (D50) of less than 40 μm, preferably between 0.3 and 25 μm and more preferably between 0.3 and 6 μm, practical even white particles between 0.5 and 3 μm.

These particles can be made of one material or be a composite. For example, these particles may be boron nitride with an average refractive index of 1.74. They may also be selected from composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a substrate selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, barium sulfate, glass, mica, synthetic mica, poly(methyl methacrylate) ) (PMMA) particles, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) particles or their mixture, their average refractive index is between 1.7 and 2.2.

According to a first embodiment, the particles are boron nitride particles.

According to another embodiment, the particles are composite particles comprising titania and alumina substrates.

According to another embodiment, the particles are composite particles comprising titanium dioxide and a mica substrate.

The non-interferentially scattering white particles are advantageously boron nitride particles, preferably having a volume average particle diameter of from 0.3 to 6 μm.

The non-interferentially scattering white particles may represent 1% to 12% by weight, preferably 2% to 10% by weight and in particular 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The average refractive index is defined as the sum of the refractive indices weighted by the weight content in the particles.

As examples of composite particles, one may mention, for example, small pieces of mica (60%) covered by _TiO2 (40%), with an average refractive index of 1.9 (0.6x1.5+0.4x2.5); aluminum oxide ( The inclusion of titanium dioxide (40%) in the matrix of 60%) has an average refractive index of 1.96 (0.6x1.6+0.4x2.5).

The following is a table of the refractive indices used:

Mica 1.4-1.7 Bismuth oxychloride (interference, outside the present invention) 2.15 Fe ₃ O ₄ 2.4 TiO ₂ (Anatase) 2.5 TiO ₂ (rutile) 2.7 boron nitride 1.74 Aluminum oxide (amorphous) 1.6

Table 1: Examples of Refractive Indexes for Various Materials

Note: The refractive index of bismuth oxychloride is given here indicatively. Of course, said bismuth oxychloride (in its conventional form) does not correspond to a particle within the meaning of the invention, since it is an advantageous reflective particle.

By way of example of particles, mention may be made of boron nitride particles, such as PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics, and UHP-1010 from Carborundum.

The scattering white particles selected according to the invention produce very specific optical properties in terms of contrast ratio and transparency (transmission). This is because the particle must have a high transmission value in order to maintain a natural appearance when, for example, prepared in a medium such as that of the composition shown in the Examples, but also must have sufficient "coverage" of the cosmetic surface so that Makes the brightening effect perceptible.

Transmittance (TH) or transparency is produced using Haze-gard from Byk Gardner. This instrument characterizes visual perception by means of target measurements.

A 25 μm film of the composition was applied to a 50 μm polyethylene (PE) film. The films were then evaluated after drying for 1 hour at ambient temperature. It was placed in the instrument and a transparency (transmittance) measurement was taken.

For this part, evaluate the contrast ratio by preparing a 50 µm film on a contrast chart with white and black parts. The protocol for applying the formulation included producing a 50 μm coating on a standard contrast chart. Measured on a white background.

Color measurements are made using a colorimeter. The colorimeter is a Konica Minolta CR-400 colorimeter. A colorimeter provides digital data representing absolute values and color differences between a reference sample and the sample to be monitored. The values obtained on the bare and unmembrane plots were used as reference values.

The operating conditions are as follows:

Standard CIE 1964 10° Observer

CIE illuminant D65 type

Measurement geometry d/0, variable d/8. The instrument has optics that produce scattered light, placed inside a spherical cavity coated with a white layer that brings about multiple reflections of the light. The anti-glare trap eliminates the glare effect on the surface of the sample.

Three spectral reflectance measurements were performed on each of the two backgrounds of the comparison chart by applying the measuring head of the spectrocolorimeter directly on the 50 μm film. The obtained values are: X, Y, and Z.

The contrast ratio was calculated by generating the mathematical mean of the three values of Y on the black background, divided by the mean of the three Y on the white background, and multiplying by 100.

For example, if one considers a W/O emulsion, such as exemplified in Example 1 of this patent application, which contains 5% by weight of boron nitride, the following behavior may be observed:

Similar results will be obtained regardless of the composition (preferably fluid), provided that the content of non-interferentially scattering particles according to the invention is between 4% and 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition .

Thus, the non-interferentially scattering white particles of the invention are present in a content of 4% to 8% by weight in the total composition, so that they produce, according to the protocol disclosed above, a transmission of at least 75%, in particular of at least 80% and Formulations with a coverage efficiency (CR/T) greater than 0.1, preferably greater than 0.15.

The latter parameter reflects the coverage efficiency in terms of per unit transmission.

Therefore, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, boron nitride particles with a volume average particle diameter D50 of less than 6 μm will be used, for example boron nitride particles sold by Saint Gobain Ceramics under the name PUHP 1030L with a volume average particle diameter D50 of 3 μm.

Said non-interfering white particles according to the invention are present in the composition in an amount effective for lightening and/or smoothing the skin and/or lips, in other words at least 1% by weight of the total composition, In particular a content of at least 1.5% by weight and preferably at least 2% by weight is present.

Preferably, the content of said particles will range from 2% to 12% by weight, preferably from 4% to 8% by weight and especially at a content of 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. At a content of more than 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the masking effect becomes too great and the desired effect of combining whiteness and transparency may be impaired.

In addition, it is possible to add color, whether introduced by dyes, or pigments, lakes, pearlescent agents, monochrome pigments, and the like.

However, in cases where these composite or non-composite particles have a refractive index greater than 2.3 (eg inorganic pigments), care is taken not to exceed 2%. This is because above this concentration the brightening effect will be reduced or indeed even disappear. Furthermore, the latter phenomenon is accompanied by a masking effect.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageously does not comprise additional white particles (ie particles other than the non-interfering white particles according to the invention) and in particular does not comprise titanium dioxide.

In particular, the compositions used according to the invention may constitute cosmetic compositions. For this use, they contain a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood here to mean a medium compatible with the skin and/or lips.

Formulation

Compositions according to the invention are provided in all formulation forms suitable for application to the skin or lips: suspensions, dispersions, gels, serums, fluid or solid emulsions (W/O, O/W, multiple emulsions), Aqueous, anhydrous or fatty sticks, solid, liquid or pasty anhydrous products, loose or compact powders, or cast, molded or extruded forms.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, in particular a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, in particular a water-in-oil emulsion.

Specifically, it will be a fluid emulsion.

According to the invention, a product in "solid" form is understood to mean a composition which has a hardness such that it does not flow under its own weight at ambient temperature, in contrast to a "fluid" composition.

The compositions according to the invention may be compositions for caring and/or making up the skin and/or lips.

In particular, it will be a base for caring or making up the skin.

According to another embodiment, it will be a base for caring or making up the lips.

The composition can be applied alone or in combination with a care or make-up product; it is in this case applied to the surface of the skin and/or lips to be made up, and then the care or make-up product is applied.

water box

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase, preferably in a content ranging from 10% to 99% by weight and more particularly from 20% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase generally comprises water and optionally at least one water-miscible solvent.

The water can be flower water, such as cornmeal water, and/or water extracted from plants or fruits and/or thermal or non-thermal mineral water, such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water, and/or spring water, sea water, Fossil water, water from melting glaciers, or water that has been distilled, double distilled or sterilized by any other method.

In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" denotes a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water is greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

Water-soluble solvents suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from C _1-8 and especially C _1-5 monoalcohols, especially ethanol, isopropanol, tert -butanol or n-butanol, the abovementioned polyols, and mixtures thereof . Ethanol and isopropanol, preferably ethanol, are therefore very particularly suitable for use in the present invention. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C ₁ -C ₄ monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one salt, such as sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, calcium chloride or calcium phosphate, alone or in a buffered mixture.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with the aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, soluble color molecules or dyes, surfactants and mixtures thereof, or water-soluble sunscreens.

liquid fatty phase

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase comprising at least one oil.

The liquid fatty phase may constitute from 1% to 80% by weight of the composition, especially from 2% to 50% by weight of the composition.

The oil may be volatile or non-volatile, of a hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated or non-fluorinated nature, or mixtures thereof.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term "fixed oil" is understood to mean an oil that remains on the skin or keratinous fibers at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, non-volatile oils have an evaporation rate of absolutely less than 0.01 mg/cm ² /min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of the oil or oil mixture to be tested are introduced into a 7 cm diameter crystallization dish placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m ³ in the Conditioned at 25°C and hygrometry at 50% relative humidity. Allow the liquid to evaporate freely without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, speed 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallization dish containing the oil or the mixture, The blade faces the crystallization dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallization dish. Measure the weight of oil remaining in the crystallization dish at regular intervals. Evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit surface area (cm ² ) and per unit time (minutes).

The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure in less than 1 hour after contact with the skin or lips. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at ambient temperature. More specifically, volatile oils have an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm ² /min inclusive.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si—O group.

The term "fluoro oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil mainly comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

volatile oil

The volatile oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and especially branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4 , 4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, such as the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®.

As volatile oil it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular with a viscosity less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 ^-6 m ² /s) and having Especially those with 2 to 10 silicon atoms and especially 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally contain alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils usable in the present invention, mention may especially be made of dimethylsiloxane of viscosities 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecylcyclopentasiloxane, Methylcyclohexyltrisiloxane, Heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, Heptaethyloctyltrisiloxane, Hexamethyldisiloxane, Octamethyltrisiloxane, Decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane and mixtures thereof.

non-volatile oil

The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbons, fluorinated oils and/or silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may especially be made of:

- Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,

- Hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as phytosterol esters such as phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl isostearate and octyldodecyl/phytosteryl lauroyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203) by Triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, especially in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths from _C4 to _C36 and especially _C18 to _C36 , these oils may be linear or branched and saturated or Unsaturated; these oils may be, inter alia, heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, shea butter, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, butternut squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, chestnut oil, tomato Lotus Oil, Shea Butter, Aloe Vera Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Peach Kernel Oil, Peanut Oil, Argan Oil, Avocado Oil, Kapok Oil, Borage Oil, Cauliflower Seed Oil, Calendula Oil, Camelina Oil, Canola Seed Oil, Carrot Oil, Safflower Oil, Hemp Oil, Rapeseed Oil, Cottonseed Oil, Coconut Oil, Cucumber Seed Oil, Wheat Germ Oil, Jojoba Oil, Lily Oil, Macadamia Oil, Corn Oil, Mangosteen Oil , St John's wort oil (St John's wort oil), monoi oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, black currant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, a month Pistachio oil, pumpkin seed oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or caprylic/caprylic triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or Dynamit Nobel markets those under the names Miglyol 810 ^? , 812 ^? and 818 ^? ,

- linear or branched chain hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, or squalane,

- synthetic ethers with 10 to 40 carbon atoms,

- synthetic esters, such as oils of _the formula _R1COOR2 , wherein _R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms and _R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms branched hydrocarbon chains, provided that the sum of the number of carbon atoms in the _R1 and _R2 chains is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may in particular be chosen from fatty acid and alcohol esters, for example: cetearyl caprylate, isopropanol esters such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethyl palmitate Hexyl esters, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate or octyl hydroxystearate , diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, especially isostearyl heptanoate, caprylate, caprate or ricinoleate of alcohols or polyols, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate, cetyl caprylate Esters, Tridecyl Caprylate, 2-Ethylhexyl 4-Diheptanoate, 2-Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Alkyl Benzoate, Polyethylene Glycol Diheptanoate, Propylene Glycol Di(2- Ethylhexanoate), and mixtures thereof, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, pivalate, such as isodecyl pivalate, isotridecyl pivalate, Isostearyl neopentanoate or octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoate esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, or hydroxylated esters, For example isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate,

- esters of polyols and pentaerythritol, such as dipentylerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,

- esters of dimer alcohols and dimer diacids, such as Lusplan DD- ^DA5® and Lusplan DD- ^DA7® , which are marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in application US 2004/175338,

- Copolymers of dimer alcohols and dimer diacids and their esters, e.g. dimer dilinoleyl glycol/dimer dilinoleic acid copolymers and their esters, e.g. Planool-G,

- Copolymers of polyols and dimer diacids, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA or dilinoleic acid/butylene glycol copolymers,

- fatty alcohols liquid at ambient temperature, containing branched and/or unsaturated carbon chains with 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol, Hexyldecanol, 2-Butyloctanol and 2-Undecylpentadecanol.

- C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their mixtures,

- dialkyl carbonates, two alkyl chains which may be the same or different, for example dioctanoyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol ^CC® by Cognis,

- oils of high molar mass, especially in the molar mass range from about 400 to about 10 000 g/mol, especially from about 650 to about 10 000 g/mol, especially from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more especially from About 1000 to about 5000 g/mol. As high molar mass oils usable in the present invention, it is possible in particular to mention oils selected from:

· lipophilic polymers,

· Esters of straight-chain fatty acids with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70,

· Hydroxylated esters,

· Aromatic esters,

· Esters of fatty alcohols or fatty acids, which are branched and contain 24 to 28 carbon atoms,

· Silicone oil,

· Oils of vegetable origin,

· and mixtures thereof,

- fluorinated oils, optionally partially hydrocarbon-modified and/or silicone-modified, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorosilicones, such as described in document EP-A-847 752,

- Silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), which are non-volatile and linear or cyclic; contain pendant alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl or alkyl groups at the end of the silicone chain , alkoxy or phenyl polydimethylsiloxanes, said groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenylated silicones such as polyphenyltrimethicone, phenylpolydimethicone Methylsiloxane, Phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxane, Diphenyldimethylsiloxane, Diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxane or (2 -phenethyl)trimethylsiloxy, and

- mixtures of them.

In a known manner, the compositions according to the invention may also comprise adjuvants normal in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, lipophilic structuring agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, surfactants, waxes, fillers, masking agents, fungicides, odor absorbers, dyes or salts.

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Surfactant

The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one surfactant.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise, alone or as a mixture, one or more surfactants selected in particular from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants.

The surfactant may generally range from 3% to 20% by weight, in particular from 3.5% to 15% by weight, indeed even absolutely greater than 5% by weight and more particularly from 5.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A content of % by weight is present in the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, especially if the composition according to the invention is a W/O emulsion, the composition may comprise at least one silicone surfactant.

By way of example, the silicone surfactant may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another particular embodiment, the non-silicone surfactant may be present in a content ranging from 4% to 10% by weight, in particular from 5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, more specifically under consideration according to the present invention, the surfactant is chosen so as to effectively stabilize the emulsion, ie of the O/W, W/O or O/W/O type. This selection is within the ability of those skilled in the art.

For O/W emulsions, for example, mention may be made of nonionic surfactants and especially polyols and fatty acids with saturated or unsaturated compounds comprising, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms and still better still 12 to 22 carbon atoms. chain esters, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylened units, such as glycerides of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; polyethylene glycol esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitol esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; C ₈ - _C24 Sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; oxyethylenated ethers of fatty acids and sugars (glucose or alkylglucose); sucrose esters; fatty alcohol ethers; C ₈ -C ₂₄ Sugar ethers of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

For W/O emulsions it is especially possible to use hydrocarbon or silicone surfactants.

For example, as hydrocarbon surfactants, mention may be made of polyester polyols such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate (sold by Uniqema under the reference Arlacel P 135), or polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate acid ester (sold by Cognis under the reference Dehymuls PGPH).

For example, as silicone surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyols (sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid) , and cetyl dimethicone copolyol (sold under the name Abil EM 90 by Goldschmidt), or polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/lauric acid Hexyl ester mixture (sold under the name Abil WE 09 by Goldschmidt).

One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added thereto. Co-emulsifiers may advantageously be chosen from polyol alkyl esters. As polyol alkyl esters, particular mention may be made of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (sold by Cognis under the name Lameform TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate esters (such as that sold by Goldschmidt under the name Isolan GI 34), sorbitan isostearate (such as that sold by ICI under the name Arlacel 987), sorbitan glyceryl isostearate (such as that sold by ICI marketed under the name Arlacel 986), and mixtures thereof.

wax

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one structuring agent selected from waxes for the liquid fatty phase.

In particular, waxes suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen especially from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof.

As examples of waxes used according to the invention, mention may be made of:

- Waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax, and lanolin derivatives, or vegetable waxes, such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, coconut oil, or cork fiber or sugarcane wax,

- mineral waxes such as paraffin, petroleum jelly, montan, microcrystalline or ozokerite,

- synthetic waxes, including polyethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis,

- silicone waxes, especially substituted linear polysiloxanes; for example, there may be mentioned polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxydimethylsiloxanes having 16 to 45 carbon atoms, or Alkyl methicones such as C ₃₀ -C ₄₅ alkyl methicone sold by Dow Corning under the tradename AMS C 30,

- Hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25°C, such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow or hydrogenated coconut oil, and fatty esters that are solid at 25°C, such as stearin Acid C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl esters, sold by Koster Keunen under the tradename Kester Wax K82H,

- and/or mixtures thereof.

filler

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler of organic or inorganic nature which, in particular, makes it possible to impart matt, coverage and/or additional properties and coatings with regard to improved stability with respect to exudation. Non-migratory properties after overburden.

The term "filler" is understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any form, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of inorganic or organic nature, can impart body or composition rigidity and/or softness, as well as uniformity of the make-up.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the invention may be in lamellar, spherical or spherical form, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorine derivatives or any other substance which promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the fillers in the composition.

As examples of inorganic fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, hollow silica, microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic micro Capsules, and compounds of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.

As examples of organic fillers, mention may be made of powders formed from polyamides (Orgasol ^Nylon® , Atochem), polyethylene, poly(methyl methacrylate), polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) or acrylic copolymers (Polytrap, Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol Caprylactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder, Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (for example, Tospearl, Toshiba), synthetic or natural micronized wax, derived from Metallic soaps of organic formic acids, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore ^ò L 200 (Chemdal Corporation) or polyurethane powders, especially made from copolymers containing A powder formed of cross-linked polyurethane containing trimethylolcaprolactone. It may in particular be a hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol caprolactone polymer. ^Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example from Toshiki under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D- ^800® , and mixtures thereof.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in this field according to consideration, for example 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into the lipid globules.

As an active agent, the composition may contain an active agent conventionally used in cosmetics and selected, for example, from desquamation agents, moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, whitening agents, color promoting agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or prevent their breakdown, agents that stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and/or the differentiation of keratinocytes, tensioning agents, muscle relaxants , agents against pollution or free radicals, agents acting on the microcirculation, agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells, or organic or inorganic photoprotectants active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region.

Whitening agents that can be incorporated into the composition according to the invention in order to complete the immediate effect given by the scattering particles include, for example, the following compounds: kojic acid; ellagic acid; arbutin and its derivatives, eg application EP-895 779 and those described in EP-524 109; hydroquinone; aminophenol derivatives such as those described in applications WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077, and especially N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl- p-aminophenol and N-ethoxycarbonyl-p-aminophenol; iminophenol derivatives, especially those described in application WO 99/22707; L-2-oxythiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or propanesemi Cystine, and its salts and esters; calcium D-pantetheinate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, especially ascorbyl glucoside; and plants, especially licorice, blackberry, skullcap and bacopa monnieri ( Bacopa monnieri ), the list is not limiting.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition used may additionally comprise at least one organic photoprotectant and/or at least one inorganic photoprotectant in the UV-A and/or UV-B region (absorbing agents) and are water- or fat-soluble or insoluble in common cosmetic solvents.

Photoprotectants are generally present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition exist.

The compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of white or colored creams, ointments, balms, milks, serums, pastes or foams. They may optionally be applied to the skin or lips in aerosol form. They may also be provided in solid form, for example in stick form.

The present invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic method for lightening and/or equalizing the skin and/or lips, especially shadows on the face and/or around the eyes, comprising topically applying to the skin or lips a Invented composition. The cosmetic method will more specifically aim at instant brightening and/or instant equalization of the skin or lips.

The compositions according to the invention can be used as such or as a care and/or make-up base, to be applied to the skin before care products or make-up products.

The invention also relates to a method for making up and/or for the non-therapeutic care of the skin or lips, comprising at least one stage of applying to the skin a cosmetic composition according to the invention as defined above.

Another aspect of the present invention relates to the use of non-interferentially scattering white particles as defined above as an agent for lightening and/or equalizing the skin and/or lips, in particular complexion, and/or for softening skin imperfections .

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention, but do not show a limiting nature. The compound is referred to by its chemical name or CTFA (International Dictionary and Handbook of Cosmetic Ingredients) name as the case may be.

The amounts are shown as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts stated are not shown as the amount of active substance but as gross amount incorporated into the composition.

Example

The following compositions were prepared according to conventional methods for formulating cosmetic compositions.

Example 1: Brightening Base for Face: W/O Emulsion

Element Percent content magnesium sulfate 0.6 Boron nitride (PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics) 5 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate (Abil WE 09 from Evonik Goldschmidt) 1.7 Acetylated glycol stearate (Cetacene 03 1350 from Vevy) 0.5 Nylon-12 6 Hexyl Laurate 1.7 Cyclopentasiloxane 13 Propylene Glycol 4.5 Dimethicone 2.6 denatured alcohol 0.2 water Appropriate amount 100 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate (Abil WE 09 from Evonik Goldschmidt) 2.3 Distearyldimethylammonium hectorite 0.9 preservative 0.2

Apply 100 mg of the composition to each side of the face. Subsequently, measurements were carried out by this method and with a Chromasphere device with a resolution of 410 x 410 pixels as described in patent FR 2 829 344. The L* (lightness) and C * (saturation) measurement. Do this on both cheeks.

The results obtained are as follows:

the ΔL* ΔL* Example 1 +1.22 -1.73

On the surface made up with the composition of Example 1, a color brightening effect is obtained without a masking effect (natural effect of the make-up result) compared to non-make-up skin.

Example 2: Brightening Eye Contour: Water-in-Oil Emulsion with Additional Tint

Element Percent content Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate `` `` 0.61 Boron Nitride (minimum 98% BN) Particle Size: 3 microns (PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics) `` `` 5 Smectite: magnesium silicate modified in cyclopentasiloxane and ethanol (18/77/5) the 5.22 Disodium salt of bright yellow FCF (CI: 15985) `` `` 0.006 preservative 1 Nylon 12 powder `` `` 6 Cyclopentamethicone `` `` 9 Polydimethylsiloxane (Viscosity: 10 cSt) `` `` 2.6 Oxyethylenated polymethyl cetyl dimethicone, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 Mol) and hexyl laurate (Abil WE 09 from Evonik Goldschmidt) mixture `` `` 5.75 Microbial cleaning deionized water The right amount 100 Isododecane `` `` 1.7 Propylene Glycol `` `` 4.5 Acetylated Glycol Stearate `` `` 0.46

Applied to the shadows around the eyes or the eye contour, an immediate brightening effect of the color without the masking effect is observed compared to non-makeup skin (natural effect of makeup results).

Example 3: Cosmetic Base Applied Under Colored Product (Two Actions)

Element Percent content magnesium sulfate 0.6 Boron nitride (PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics) 5 preservative 1 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone 1.7 Acetylated Glycol Stearate 0.5 Nylon-12 6 Hexyl Laurate 1.7 Cyclopentasiloxane 13 Propylene Glycol 4.5 Dimethicone 2.6 denatured alcohol 8 water Appropriate amount 100 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate 2.3 Isododecane 1.7 Distearyldimethylammonium Hectorite 0.9

Applied under cosmetic powder, the composition of the invention makes it possible to lead to a final cosmetic result of brightening and homogenizing the complexion.

Example 4: Rod

Element Percent content Boron nitride (PUHP 1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics) 5 Sweet almond oil (Olvea) obtained by cold pressing 7.33 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 7.33 Hydrogenated Coconut Glycerides (Softisan 100 from Cremer Oleo) 2.68 Isopropyl isostearate 7 Candelilla Wax 11 Blended rapeseed oil (Lipex Preact from AarhusKarlshamn) 6.5 Hydrogenated myristyl olive ester (Phytowax Olive 14L48 from Sophim) 1.94 Hydrogenated stearyl olive ester (Phytowax Olive 18 L 57 from Sophim) 1.94 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (Lipex Shea from AarhusKarlshamn) 18.58 Rice (rice) starch (Remy DR I Irradiated, via Beneo-Remy) 0.98 Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate 29.75

Applying the formula to the lips results in a brightening of the lip color. If the product is a non-opaque lip gloss, a second action can be used.

Claims (16)

1. for the non-treatment beauty method of blast and/or the homogenize especially color of skin and/or lip, its shadow comprised to described skin or lip, particularly facial skin and/or circumference of eyes applies at least one deck cosmetic composition, and described cosmetic composition comprises:

The white particles of (i) at least non-interfering scattering, it is characterized in that the volume average particle size (D50) of 0.3 to 40 μm and the refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, relative to the gross weight of described compositions, content is more than or equal to, be preferably definitely greater than 1 % by weight, relative to the gross weight of described compositions, preferably 2% to 12 % by weight, and

(ii) refractive index is more than or equal to, is preferably definitely greater than the particle of 2.3 0 to 2 % by weight.

2. the beauty method according to aforementioned claim, is characterized in that individually or applied described cosmetic composition before coating care product or cosmetic product.

3., according to beauty method in any one of the preceding claims wherein, it is characterized in that described cosmetic composition does not comprise additional white particle, particularly do not comprise titanium dioxide.

4., according to beauty method in any one of the preceding claims wherein, it is characterized in that described cosmetic composition comprises surfactant in addition.

5., according to beauty method in any one of the preceding claims wherein, it is characterized in that described cosmetic composition comprises wax in addition.

6., according to beauty method in any one of the preceding claims wherein, it is characterized in that described cosmetic composition is the form of Water-In-Oil or O/w emulsion.

7. according to beauty method in any one of the preceding claims wherein, it is characterized in that the white particles of described non-interfering scattering is selected from boron nitride, comprise the complex particle of titanium dioxide and substrate, described substrate is selected from aluminium oxide, silicon dioxide, barium sulfate, glass, Muscovitum, synthetic mica, poly-(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) particle, politef (PTFE) particle or their mixture, and their mean refractive index is between 1.7 and 2.2.

8., according to beauty method in any one of the preceding claims wherein, it is characterized in that the white particles of described non-interfering scattering is boron nitride.

9., according to beauty method in any one of the preceding claims wherein, it is characterized in that the white particles of described non-interfering scattering to be volume average particle size D50 be the boron nitride particles of 0.3 to 6 μm.

10., according to beauty method in any one of the preceding claims wherein, it is characterized in that the white particles of described non-interfering scattering accounts for 1 % by weight to 12 % by weight, preferably 2 % by weight to 10 % by weight relative to the gross weight of described compositions and particularly 4 % by weight to 8 % by weight.

11. according to beauty method in any one of the preceding claims wherein, it is characterized in that described compositions comprises at least one Cosmetic Ingredient in addition, it is selected from desquamation agent, wetting agent, depigmenting agent, brightening agent, short coloring agent, anti-gfycation agent, NO-synthase inhibitor, the synthesis stimulating corium or epidermal macromolecules and/or the medicament stoping them to decompose, stimulate the medicament of fibroblast or the propagation of horn cell and/or the differentiation of horn cell, tensioning agent, muscle relaxant, the medicament of antipollution or free radical, act on microcirculatory medicament, act on the medicament of the energy metabolism of cell, or in UV-A and/or UV-B region active organic bright protective agent or mineral light protectant.

12. cosmetic compositions, the special form in water-in-oil emulsion, it can comprise in accepting medium on physiology:

The white particles of (i) at least non-interfering scattering, it is characterized in that the volume average particle size (D50) of 0.3 to 6 μm and the refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, be preferably 4 % by weight to 8 % by weight relative to the gross weight content of described compositions

(ii) refractive index is more than or equal to, is preferably definitely greater than the particle of 2.3 0 % by weight to 2 % by weight,

Such as, and it is characterized in that, scheme disclosed in description, it advantageously shows the absorbance of at least 75% and the covering efficiency (contrast ratio/absorbance) of at least 0.1.

13. cosmetic compositions, the special form in water-in-oil emulsion, it can comprise in accepting medium on physiology:

The white particles of (i) at least non-interfering scattering, it is characterized in that the volume average particle size (D50) of 0.3 μm to 6 μm and the refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, be preferably 4% to 8 % by weight relative to the gross weight content of described compositions

(ii) refractive index is more than or equal to, is preferably definitely greater than the particle of 2.3 0% to 2 % by weight,

On described skin and/or lip after coating, such as measurement scheme disclosed in description, described compositions provides the loss of the increase of the chroma-luminance of Δ L >+1 and the color saturation of Δ C<-1.

14. compositionss according to claim 12 or 13, is characterized in that the white particles of described non-interfering scattering is the boron nitride particles of volume average particle size D50 between 0.3 μm and 6 μm.

15. according to claim 11 to the compositions according to any one of 13, it is characterized in that its any one of claim 3 to 10 in define.

The purposes of the white particles of 16. effective dose non-interfering scatterings, it is characterized in that the volume average particle size (D50) of 0.3 to 40 μm and the refractive index (RI) of 1.7 to 2.2, particularly boron nitride particles, preferably there is the volume average particle size of 0.3 μm to 6 μm, in cosmetic composition, be used as the medicament of the color of blast and/or homogenize skin and/or lip, particularly complexion, particularly there is immediate effect.