CN107313149B - A Fusible Interlining Base Cloth Reducing Moore Effect - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention provides an adhesive lining base cloth capable of reducing a molar effect. Warp and weft floating yarns of the base cloth are staggered in the longitudinal and transverse directions and irregularly arranged, the weaving points of the base cloth are staggered irregularly, the warp and weft floating length is controlled at 1 grid, 2 grids or 3 grids in the longitudinal and transverse directions, the weave is obviously different from plain weave, twill and satin, no obvious twill, sliver or other rules appear, the surface texture of the fabric is clear, the reflection of light is soft, the molar effect is greatly reduced, and the fabric woven by the weave has softer hand feeling and better elasticity than plain weave. The internal quality of the adhesive interlining is improved, so that better compatibility is formed between the garment and the adhesive interlining, the shape retention and the comfort of the garment are improved, the adhesive interlining is particularly suitable for being used as the adhesive interlining of the thin fabric garment, and the internal quality of the garment is improved.

Description

A Fusible Interlining Base Cloth Reducing Moore Effect

【Technical field】

The invention relates to the technical field of a fusible interlining base cloth woven fabric, in particular to a fusible interlining base cloth with reduced mole effect.

【Background technique】

In addition to meeting the basic physiological needs of being warm in winter and cool in summer, clothing places more emphasis on the comfort of wearing and the individual characteristics of styles. When clothing cannot meet the ideal shape curve, crispness, drape and other requirements only by style design, fabric, sample and technology, interlining - as an invisible part of clothing, can play its unique role to make up for these Insufficient, so that the clothing can achieve unexpected molding effect. It can not only endow the clothing with beautiful curves and shapes, increase the stiffness and elasticity of the clothing, improve the drape of the clothing, increase the three-dimensional effect of the clothing, but also prevent the deformation of the clothing and play a complementary role in the local parts. strong reinforcement. It can be seen that interlining plays a pivotal role in clothing.

Because the warp and weft yarns of the plain weave are frequently interlaced, the fabric is firm and firm, and the weave design is simple, it is widely used in the production of adhesive interlining base fabrics. When the density of the summer clothing fabric is relatively small, when the fusible interlining of the plain weave is bonded together with the clothing fabric of the plain weave, a moiré effect will occur. Moiré phenomenon is a visual phenomenon in which interference fringes occur on objects at certain intervals. As shown in Figure 1, when the fabric density is low and the fusible interlining base fabric and the garment fabric both use plain weave, the visual effect of the place where the fusible interlining is sewn will be weakened, and it looks like there are many messy stripes, making the clothing texture Unclear, which seriously affects the visual beauty of clothing, so a fusible interlining base fabric that reduces the moiré effect is proposed.

【Content of invention】

The purpose of the present invention is to solve the problems in the prior art, and propose a fusible interlining base fabric that reduces the mole effect, and through a special weave design method, the warp and weft floating lines on the surface of the fabric are intricate and irregular in the vertical and horizontal directions. Arrangement, so that it is significantly different from the plain weave, twill weave and satin weave of conventional clothing fabrics, so it can significantly weaken the Moore effect produced by the same weave of the fusible interlining fabric and the clothing fabric, and can be produced on a dobby loom weaving production.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention proposes a fusible interlining base fabric that reduces the Moore effect, the warp and weft floating lines of the base fabric are arranged in an intricate and irregular manner in the vertical and horizontal directions, and the weaving points of the base fabric are irregularly interwoven , the latitude and longitude floating length is controlled at 1 grid, 2 grids or 3 grids vertically and horizontally.

As preferably, the number of longitudinal grids of the cardboard pattern of the base cloth is equal to the number of heald frames, the number of horizontal grids of the cardboard pattern is ≥8, and the number of warp weaving points and weft weaving points of the upper and lower warp weft of the cardboard pattern is 1 o'clock or 2 o'clock, the upper and lower latitude and longitude floating lengths of the cardboard map are less than 2 grids.

Preferably, the continuous warp weave points and weft weave points at the upper and lower circulation joints of the base fabric are less than 2 grids, and the upper continuous warp float length and weft float length of the base fabric are ≤ 2 points.

Preferably, the number of horizontal grids of the drafting pattern of the base fabric is equal to the number of heald frames, and the number of vertical grids of the drafting pattern is equal to N times the number of heald frames, where N≥3.

As preferably, the longitudinal grid of the drafting pattern of the base cloth constitutes N units, and in each unit, one warp thread only passes through a piece of heald frame, and the adjacent warp threads in the same piece of heald frame are separated by at least 2 warp threads, Each unit is worn differently.

Preferably, the latitude and longitude floating length in the left and right direction of the weave chart of the base fabric is ≤ 3 grids, and the latitude and longitude floating length in the left and right direction of the weave chart of the base fabric is ≤ 3 grids at the loop joints in the left and right directions of the weave chart of the base fabric.

Preferably, the latitude and longitude floating length in the left and right direction of the weave chart of the base fabric is ≤ 2 grids, and the latitude and longitude floating length in the left and right direction of the weave chart of the base fabric is ≤ 2 grids at the loop joints in the left and right directions of the weave chart of the base fabric.

Preferably, the base fabric adopts 4, 6 or 8 heald frames.

Beneficial effects of the present invention: the present invention uses a special weave design method to make the warp and weft floating lines on the surface of the fabric intricately and irregularly arranged in the vertical and horizontal directions, the weave points are interlaced irregularly, and the warp and weft floating lengths are controlled at 1 grid or 2 grids Or 3 grids, its weave is obviously different from plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave, and there are no obvious twill weaves, stripes or other regularities, so that the surface texture of the fabric is clear and the reflection is soft, thereby reducing the Moore effect, and the fabric woven by this weave It is softer and more elastic than plain weave fabric. Further improve the internal quality of the fusible interlining, so that the clothing and the fusible interlining can form a better compatibility, increase the shape retention and comfort of the clothing, especially suitable for the fusible interlining of thin fabric clothing, and improve the internal quality of the clothing .

The features and advantages of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

【Description of drawings】

Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the moiré effect after the traditional clothing fabric is bonded to the fusible interlining;

Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of the cardboard diagram of four heald frames of a fusible interlining base cloth that reduces the Moore effect of the present invention;

Fig. 3 is a schematic diagram of the cardboard diagram of six heald frames of a fusible interlining base cloth that reduces the Moore effect of the present invention;

Fig. 4 is a schematic diagram of the drawing-in diagram of four heald frames of a fusible interlining base cloth that reduces the Moore effect of the present invention;

Fig. 5 is a schematic diagram of the drawing-in drawing of six heald frames of a fusible interlining base cloth that reduces the Moore effect of the present invention;

Fig. 6 is the schematic diagram of the tissue diagram of four heald frames of a kind of fusible interlining base cloth that reduces Moore effect in the present invention;

Fig. 7 is a schematic diagram of the organization diagram of six heald frames of a fusible interlining base fabric with reduced mole effect in the present invention.

【Detailed ways】

Referring to Fig. 1 to Fig. 7, the present invention is an adhesive interlining base cloth that reduces the Moore effect, the warp and weft floating lines of the base cloth are arranged in an intricate and irregular manner in the vertical and horizontal directions, and the weaving points of the base cloth are irregularly interwoven, The latitude and longitude floating length is controlled at 1 grid, 2 grids or 3 grids vertically and horizontally. The number of vertical grids of the cardboard pattern of the base fabric is equal to the number of heald frames, the number of horizontal grids of the cardboard pattern is ≥8, and the number of warp weaving points and weft weaving points continuous up and down in the cardboard pattern is 1 point or At 2 o'clock, the upper and lower latitude and longitude floating lengths of the pattern are below 2 grids. The continuous warp weave points and weft weave points at the upper and lower circulation joints of the base fabric are less than 2 grids, and the upper continuous warp float length and weft float length of the base fabric are ≤2 points. The number of horizontal grids of the drafting pattern of the base fabric is equal to the number of heald frames, and the number of vertical grids of the drafting pattern is equal to N times the number of heald frames, where N≥3. The longitudinal grid of the heald pattern of the base fabric constitutes N units, and in each unit, a warp thread only passes through a piece of heald frame, and the adjacent warp threads in the same piece of heald frame are separated by at least 2 warp threads, and each unit Wear as many different ways as possible.

According to the cardboard diagram and drafting diagram, we can get the weaving diagram. When the continuous weaving point (floating length) of the weaving and warp in the left and right directions of the weaving diagram is ≥ 4 grids, we need to adjust the weaving diagram so that the latitude and longitude in the left and right directions of the weaving diagram float. Length ≤ 3 grids or ≤ 2 grids. At the same time, check the loop connections in the left and right directions, and the latitude and longitude floating length in the left and right directions of the organization chart must also be ≤3 grids or ≤2 grids.

Example:

Fusible interlining base fabrics that reduce moiré effects generally use 4, 6 or 8 heald frames. If the warp and weft ratio of the fabric is relatively small, the warp and weft floating length should be controlled below 3 points. If the warp and weft ratio of the fabric is very small, the warp and weft floating length should be controlled below 2 points;

Using 4 and 6 heald frames respectively to illustrate the weave design method of fusible interlining base fabric to reduce moiré effect.

The first step: cardboard design.

The number of longitudinal grids of the cardboard diagram=the number of heald frames. When the heald frame adopts 4 pieces, the number of longitudinal grids of the cardboard pattern is 4 grids. When the heald frame adopts 6 pieces, the number of vertical grids of the pattern plate is 6 grids.

The number of horizontal grids of the pattern plate is ≥ 8. In principle, the more horizontal grids, the better the weakening of Moore effect.

In this example, when 4 heald frames are used, the number of horizontal grids is determined to be 20; when 6 heald frames are used, the number of horizontal grids is determined to be 120 grids. When designing the upper and lower warp and weft weave points on the cardboard, the continuous warp and weft weave points are designed as 1 or 2 points, so that the floating length of the upper and lower warp and weft is controlled below 2 grids, and at the same time, check the continuous warp and weft at the connection of the upper and lower loops Weave points and weft weave points should also be controlled below 2 grids, so as to ensure that the continuous warp float length and weft float length on the woven fabric are ≤ 2 points. There is no requirement for the design of the left and right organization points of the cardboard diagram. According to this principle, the cardboard diagram when 4 heald frames are used is shown in Figure 2, and the cardboard diagram when 6 heald frames are used is shown in Figure 3.

The second step is the drawing design.

The number of grids in the drafting diagram=the number of heald frames. The number of vertical grids in the drafting chart = the number of heald frames × N, N≥3.

In this example, when the heald frame adopts 4 pieces, the number of horizontal grids=4 grids of the drawing diagram, and the vertical grid number=40 grids of the drawing diagram. When the heald frame adopts 6 pieces, the number of horizontal grids=6 grids of the drawing heald diagram, and the vertical grid number=120 grids of the drawing heald diagram.

When designing a heald frame with 4 pieces of heald drawing, 4 vertical grids are used as a unit, and 40 vertical grids are divided into 10 units. In each unit, a warp must and can only pass through one heald frame. A piece of heald frame can only wear one warp thread, adjacent warp threads in the same piece of heald frame need to be separated by more than 2 warp threads, and try to design different threading methods for 10 units. Design according to this method, the drawing-in drawing when the heald frame adopts 4 pieces is shown in Figure 4.

When designing a heald frame with 6 pieces of heald drawing, 6 vertical grids are used as a unit, and 120 vertical grids are divided into 20 units. In each unit, a warp thread must and can only pass through one heald frame. A piece of heald frame can only wear one warp thread, and adjacent warp threads in the same piece of heald frame need to be separated by more than 2 warp threads, and 20 units should be designed with different threading methods as much as possible. Design according to this method, the drafting diagram when the heald frame adopts 4 pieces is shown in Figure 5.

The third step is to determine the organization chart.

According to the cardboard diagram and drafting diagram, the tissue diagram can be obtained.

When the heald frame adopts 4 pieces, the number of vertical grids and the number of horizontal grids are 20 grids in the tissue diagram, as shown in Figure 6.

When 6 heald frames are used, the number of vertical grids and 120 horizontal grids of the tissue diagram are as shown in Figure 7.

In the up and down directions of the organization chart, the latitude and longitude floating length is controlled when designing on the cardboard chart, that is, it is less than or equal to 2 grids.

However, in the left and right directions of the organizational chart, the continuous weaving point (floating length) of the warp and latitude may be ≥ 4 grids. At this time, the threading chart needs to be adjusted so that the vertical latitude and longitude floating length of the organizational chart is ≤ 3 grids or ≤ 2 grids. At the same time, check the loop connections in the left and right directions, and the latitude and longitude floating length in the left and right directions of the organization chart must also be ≤3 grids or ≤2 grids.

The fusible interlining base fabric designed according to this method makes the warp and weft floating lines on the surface of the fabric intricately and irregularly arranged in the vertical and horizontal directions, the weaving points are interlaced irregularly, and the warp and weft floating lengths are controlled at 1 grid, 2 grids or 3 grids , its weave is obviously different from plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave, and there are no obvious twill weave, stripes or other regularities, so that the surface texture of the fabric is clear, and the reflection is soft, thereby reducing the Moore effect, and the fabric woven by this organization is better than plain weave Soft to the touch and good elasticity. Further improve the internal quality of the fusible interlining, so that the clothing and the fusible interlining can form a better compatibility, increase the shape retention and comfort of the clothing, especially suitable for the fusible interlining of thin fabric clothing, and improve the internal quality of the clothing .

The above-mentioned embodiment is an illustration of the present invention, not a limitation of the present invention, and any solution after a simple transformation of the present invention belongs to the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (1)

1. A fusible interlining base cloth that reduces the Moore effect, is characterized in that: the warp and weft floating lines of the base cloth are intricately and irregularly arranged in the vertical and horizontal directions, and the weave points of the base cloth are irregularly interwoven, and the warp and weft floating lines are arranged irregularly. The length is controlled at 1 grid, 2 grids and 3 grids in the vertical and horizontal directions; the number of longitudinal rows of the cardboard pattern of the base fabric is equal to the number of heald frames, the number of horizontal rows of the cardboard pattern is ≥8, and the upper and lower latitude and longitude of the cardboard pattern The number of continuous warp weave points and weft weave points is 1 grid and 2 grids, and the floating length of the upper and lower latitude and longitude of the cardboard pattern is less than 2 grids; At the circular junction of the left and right directions of the organization chart of the base cloth, the latitude and longitude floating length in the left and right directions of the organization chart is less than or equal to 3 grids; N times the number of frames, N≥3; the longitudinal rows of the threading pattern of the base cloth constitute N units, in each unit, a warp thread only passes through a piece of heald frame, and the adjacent heald frames in the same piece of heald frame There are at least 2 healds at intervals between the warps, and different threading methods are adopted for each unit; 4, 6 or 8 heald frames are used for the base fabric.