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CN1179302A - Composition comprising polymeric system and use of said system, in particular in cosmetics - Google Patents

Composition comprising polymeric system and use of said system, in particular in cosmetics Download PDF

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CN1179302A
CN1179302A CN 97117462 CN97117462A CN1179302A CN 1179302 A CN1179302 A CN 1179302A CN 97117462 CN97117462 CN 97117462 CN 97117462 A CN97117462 A CN 97117462A CN 1179302 A CN1179302 A CN 1179302A
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polymer
arbitrary
compositions
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polyurethane
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V·德拉波特里
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种能够涂在皮肤、半粘膜和/或粘膜上的组合物,该组合物含有一种包括一种成膜聚合物微粒的含水分散液的聚合物系统,所述聚合物系统能够得到一种柔软的和可弯曲的薄膜。本发明还涉及这种聚合物系统在特别是这样一种化妆组合物中的应用。The present invention relates to a composition capable of being applied to the skin, semi-mucosa and/or mucous membranes, comprising a polymer system comprising an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles capable of A soft and bendable film is obtained. The invention also relates to the use of such a polymer system, in particular in such a cosmetic composition.

Description

含有聚合物系统的组合物和所述系统 尤其在化妆中的应用Compositions containing polymer systems and use of said systems, especially in cosmetics

本发明涉及特别是能够涂在皮肤、半粘膜和/或粘膜上的化妆组合物。所述的组合物具体地含有一种成膜聚合物微粒含水分散液,该组合物可以作为化妆品使用。The invention relates in particular to cosmetic compositions which can be applied to the skin, semi-mucosa and/or mucous membranes. The composition specifically contains an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer microparticles, and the composition can be used as a cosmetic.

涂在皮肤、半粘膜和/或粘膜上的口红或色底类的这些组合物一般呈棒状、软膏或流动膏状,这些组合物含有如油之类的脂肪、糊状化合物和/或蜡,微粒相一般是由填料和颜料化合物组成。These compositions of the lipstick or color foundation type for application to the skin, semi-mucosa and/or mucous membranes are generally in the form of sticks, ointments or flowable creams, these compositions contain fats such as oils, pasty compounds and/or waxes, The particulate phase generally consists of filler and pigment compounds.

不过这些组合物涂在所述的载体上时有转移的缺陷。这里实际上应当理解该组合物是能够至少部分地沉积在它们可能与其接触的某些载体上,具体地如玻璃、杯子、服装或皮肤。沉积时在所述载体上留下微量的所述组合物。However, these compositions suffer from transfer defects when applied to said supports. It should in fact be understood here that the compositions are able to be deposited at least partially on some support with which they may come into contact, such as in particular glass, cups, clothing or skin. Upon deposition, traces of the composition are left on the support.

因而由此得出,这种组合物在皮肤、半粘膜或粘膜上不太经久,必须经常地重新涂这种组合物。It thus follows that such compositions are not very durable on the skin, semi-mucosa or mucous membranes and must be frequently reapplied.

另外,在某些衣服上,特别是在女衬衫衣领上出现不可忍受的痕迹可能使某些妇女拒绝使用这类化妆品。In addition, unbearable marks on certain garments, especially on blouse collars, may dissuade some women from using such cosmetics.

这些组合物另外一个缺陷是迁移问题。事实上人们看到,在色底的情况下,某些组合物具有往皮肤皱纹和/或皱褶(ridule)内部扩散的趋向,在口红的情况下,往口唇周边的皱褶中扩散,在眼膏的情况下,往眼睑皱纹中扩散。人们还看到特别是在眼膏的情况下,由于眼睑运动而产生化妆条纹。还看到眼线也可能移动。所有这些现象造成了不美观的效果,这是人们希望尽力避免的。Another drawback of these compositions is the problem of migration. In fact, it is seen that certain compositions have a tendency to diffuse into the skin's wrinkles and/or ridules in the case of color bases, into the folds around the lips in the case of lipsticks, and in the case of lipsticks. In the case of eye ointment, spread into the creases of the eyelids. Makeup streaks due to eyelid movement have also been seen, especially in the case of eyeliner. It is also seen that the eyeliner may move as well. All of these phenomena create an unattractive effect, which it is desirable to avoid as much as possible.

多年来,许多化妆师关心化妆组合物,特别是关心“无转移”的口红或色底组合物。于是,曾考虑过“无转移”口红组合物,该组合物含有1-70%(重量)具有重复硅酸盐结构单元的液体硅氧烷树脂,10-98%(重量)一种挥发性硅氧烷油和多种粉末填料。这种硅氧烷油蒸发后嘴唇上生成膜的缺陷是随着时间的推移而变得不舒服(干燥和拉扯的感觉),For many years, many makeup artists have been concerned with makeup compositions, especially "transfer-free" lipstick or primer compositions. Thus, "non-transfer" lipstick compositions have been considered, containing 1-70% by weight of a liquid silicone resin with repeating silicate structural units, 10-98% by weight of a volatile silicon Oxyparaffin oil and various powder fillers. The drawback of this silicone oil that forms a film on the lips after evaporation is that it becomes uncomfortable over time (dryness and pulling sensation),

人们还看到“无转移”口红含有一种挥发性硅氧烷油和一种硅氧烷树脂,这种树脂挂有一个至少12个碳原子的酯化链。这种口红薄膜的缺陷具体是涂敷时不舒服,特别是感到很干燥。于是,一般地,将挥发性油与某些含硅氧烷化合物配合起来能够得到令人满意的“无转移”结果。但是,涂了这些组合物,并在挥发物蒸发之后所得到这些薄膜的缺陷仍然是光泽相当暗,于是获得不太光亮的化妆效果。"No-transfer" lipsticks have also been seen to contain a volatile silicone oil and a silicone resin with an esterified chain of at least 12 carbon atoms attached to it. A disadvantage of such lipstick films is in particular the uncomfortable, especially dry feeling upon application. Generally, then, volatile oils are combined with certain silicone-containing compounds to give satisfactory "no transfer" results. However, the drawback of these films obtained after application of these compositions and after evaporation of the volatiles is still that the gloss is rather dull, so that a less glossy make-up effect is obtained.

因此,仍需要一种不太转移或根本不转移的化妆组合物,即一种“无转移”组合物,同时具有良好的化妆性质,尤其是能够得到一种可以任选地或多或少光亮的薄膜。Therefore, there remains a need for a cosmetic composition that transfers little or not at all, i.e. a "transfer-free" composition, while having good cosmetic properties, in particular to be able to obtain a cosmetic composition that can optionally be more or less glossy. film.

本发明的目的是提出一种组合物,这种组合物能够得到一种稳定性非常好的薄膜,这种薄膜不转移,不沾污与其接触的载体,随着时间的推移也不迁移,同时能够获得化妆和/或一种光亮的薄膜。The object of the present invention is to propose a composition which makes it possible to obtain a film of very good stability, which does not transfer, does not stain the support it is in contact with, does not migrate over time, and at the same time Make-up and/or a glossy film can be obtained.

于是,本发明的一个目的是用于一种能够涂在皮肤、半-粘膜和/或粘膜上的组合物,一种包括成膜聚合物微粒的含水分散液的聚合物系统,所述的聚合物系统能够得到一种杨氏模数小于约200MPa的薄膜。Thus, an object of the present invention is for a composition capable of being applied to the skin, semi-mucosal and/or mucous membranes, a polymer system comprising an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles, said polymerized The physical system can result in a film having a Young's modulus of less than about 200 MPa.

本发明的另外一个目的是所述的聚合物系统或一种含有这种系统的组合物用于化妆、保护和/或非治疗性地处理皮肤、半-粘膜和/或粘膜,特别是嘴唇。Another object of the invention is the use of said polymer system or a composition containing such a system for the cosmetic, protective and/or non-therapeutic treatment of the skin, semi-mucosal and/or mucous membranes, especially the lips.

本发明的其他一个目的是所述的聚合物系统或一种含有这种系统的组合物用于制备一种治疗性地处理皮肤、半-粘膜和/或粘膜,特别是嘴唇的组合物。Another object of the invention is the use of said polymer system or a composition containing such a system for the preparation of a composition for the therapeutic treatment of the skin, semi-mucosal and/or mucous membranes, especially the lips.

本发明的其他一个目的是一种能够涂在皮肤、半-粘膜和/或粘膜上的组合物,特别是一种无转移口红组合物,该组合物含有包括一种成膜聚合物微粒的含水分散液的聚合物系统,所述的聚合物系统能够得到一种杨氏模数小于约200MPa的薄膜。Another object of the present invention is a composition capable of being applied to the skin, semi-mucosa and/or mucous membranes, in particular a non-transfer lipstick composition comprising an aqueous solution comprising a film-forming polymer particle. Dispersion polymer systems capable of yielding a film having a Young's modulus of less than about 200 MPa.

人们还看到,本发明的这种组合物很容易涂,在皮肤、半-粘膜和/或粘膜,特别是嘴唇上容易均匀地展开。It has also been observed that the compositions of the present invention are easy to spread and spread easily and evenly on the skin, semi-mucosal and/or mucous membranes, especially the lips.

尤其发现本发明的这种组合物在护理和/或化妆皮肤、半-粘膜和/或粘膜方面一种特别有意义的应用。关于粘膜,应当具体地理解为下眼睑的内部,在半粘膜中,应当更具体地理解为嘴唇。In particular, such compositions according to the invention find a particularly interesting use in the care and/or makeup of the skin, semi-mucosal and/or mucous membranes. With regard to the mucous membrane, it is to be understood in particular as the inner part of the lower eyelid, and in the case of the semi-mucosa, it is to be understood more specifically as the lips.

本发明的组合物能够获得一种均匀的薄膜,这种薄膜有轻微的结构,有这种薄膜整天都是舒服的。这种薄膜完全不粘,同时在皮肤上是软的,柔软的、弹性的和可弯曲的,由此说明该组合物沉积的载体运动不龟裂和/或不自行剥离。在嘴唇上粘合特别完美。The composition of the present invention makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous film with a light structure which is comfortable all day long. This film is completely non-sticky while being soft, pliable, elastic and bendable on the skin, thereby indicating that the composition is deposited on the carrier without cracking and/or self-peeling. Adhesive especially perfectly on the lips.

本发明的组合物在嘴唇化妆品方面获得非常特别的应用,具体是作为口红的应用。该组合物还获得在眼线方面一种其他的有利应用。The composition of the invention finds very particular application in lip cosmetics, in particular as lipstick. The composition also finds a further advantageous application in eyeliner.

另一方面,根据该组合物组分的性质,所得到的薄膜可以是非常光亮的,或者或多或少无光泽的,由此光亮的或无光泽的化妆品随意扩展的范围较宽。On the other hand, depending on the nature of the components of the composition, the films obtained can be very glossy or more or less matte, whereby the range of glossy or matte cosmetics spreads freely.

因此,本发明组合物含有一种聚合物系统,它包括至少一种成膜聚合物微粒的含水分散液。在本发明范围内可使用的成膜聚合物中,可以列举缩聚物类或自由基类的这些合成聚合物,天然来源的这些聚合物和它们的混合物。Accordingly, the compositions of the present invention comprise a polymer system comprising an aqueous dispersion of at least one film-forming polymer particle. Among the film-forming polymers usable within the scope of the present invention, there may be mentioned these synthetic polymers of the polycondensate or free-radical type, these polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof.

在这些缩聚物中,于是可以列举阴离子、阳离子、非离子或两性聚氨酯、聚氨酯-丙烯酸、聚氨酯-聚吡咯烷酮、聚酯-聚氨酯、聚醚-聚氨酯、聚脲、聚脲/聚氨酯,和它们的混合物。Among these condensation polymers there may thus be mentioned anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylic, polyurethane-polypyrrolidone, polyester-polyurethane, polyether-polyurethane, polyurea, polyurea/polyurethane, and mixtures thereof .

聚氨酯例如可以是脂族、环脂族或芳族的聚氨酯、聚脲/氨基甲酸酯或聚脲的共聚物,可以是单一的或混合的,Polyurethanes can be, for example, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic polyurethanes, polyurea/urethane or polyurea copolymers, either singly or in mixtures,

·至少一种直链或支链脂族和/或环脂族和/或芳族聚酯来源的顺序,和/或a sequence of at least one linear or branched aliphatic and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic polyester source, and/or

·至少一种脂族和/或环脂族和/或芳族聚醚来源的顺序,和/或a sequence of at least one aliphatic and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic polyether origin, and/or

·至少一种有支链或无支链的、取代或未取代的含硅氧烷的顺序,和/或At least one branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted siloxane-containing sequence, and/or

至少一种含有含氟基团的顺序。At least one sequence containing a fluorine-containing group.

本发明中定义的这些聚氨酯还可以由有支链或无支链聚酯,或含有可移动氢的醇酸树脂得到,可通过与一种二异氰酸盐和一种双官能有机化合物(例如二氢、二氨基或羟氨基)反应改性该氢,所述醇酸树脂还含有或者一种羧酸基团或一种羧酸根基团,或者一种磺酸基团或一种磺酸根基团,或者一种可中和的叔胺基团或一种季铵基团。The polyurethanes defined in the present invention can also be obtained from branched or unbranched polyesters, or from alkyd resins containing mobile hydrogen, by combining a diisocyanate and a difunctional organic compound (e.g. dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino) to modify the hydrogen, the alkyd resin also contains either a carboxylic acid group or a carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid group or a sulfonate group group, or a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.

还可以列举聚酯、聚酯酰胺、具有脂族链的聚酯、聚酰胺和环氧酯树脂。Also exemplified are polyesters, polyesteramides, polyesters with aliphatic chains, polyamides and epoxy ester resins.

这些聚酯可以以已知的方式由脂族二酸或芳族二酸与脂族二醇或芳族二醇或多元醇缩聚得到。作为脂族二酸,可以使用琥珀酸、戊二酸、己二酸、庚二酸、辛二酸或癸二酸。作为芳族二酸,可以使用对苯二酸或间苯二酸,或如苯二甲酸酐之类的一种衍生物。作为脂族二醇,可以使用乙二醇、丙二醇、二甘醇、新戊二醇、环己烷二甲醇、4,4′-(1-甲基亚丙基)双苯酚。作为多元醇,可以使用甘油、季戊四醇、山梨醇、三羟甲基丙烷。These polyesters can be obtained in a known manner from the polycondensation of aliphatic or aromatic diacids with aliphatic or aromatic diols or polyols. As aliphatic diacids, it is possible to use succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid or sebacic acid. As the aromatic diacid, terephthalic acid or isophthalic acid, or a derivative such as phthalic anhydride can be used. As the aliphatic diol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, and 4,4'-(1-methylpropylene)bisphenol can be used. Glycerin, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, and trimethylolpropane can be used as the polyhydric alcohol.

这些聚酯酰胺可以以与聚酯类似的方式得到,可以由二酸与一些二胺或一些氨基醇缩聚得到。作为二胺,可以使用亚乙基二胺、六亚甲基二胺、间-或对-苯二胺。作为氨基醇,可以使用单乙醇胺。These polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with some diamines or some aminoalcohols. As diamines, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, m- or p-phenylenediamine can be used. As the aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

作为这种缩聚作用时可以使用的带阴离子基团的单体,例如可以列举二羟甲基丙酸、三苯六甲酸或如三苯六甲酸酐之类的一种衍生物,3-磺基戊二醇酸钠盐、5-磺基-1,3-苯二羧酸钠盐。As monomers with anionic groups that can be used in this polycondensation, for example, dimethylolpropionic acid, trimellitic acid or a derivative such as trimellitic anhydride, 3-sulfopentyl Glycol acid sodium salt, 5-sulfo-1,3-benzenedicarboxylic acid sodium salt.

这些具有脂族链的聚酯可以在缩聚时用具有脂族链的二醇得到。These polyesters having an aliphatic chain can be obtained by polycondensation using diols having an aliphatic chain.

这些环氧酯树脂可以由脂族酸与一种具有α,ω-二环氧端的缩合物缩聚得到。These epoxy ester resins are obtainable by polycondensation of aliphatic acids with a condensate having α,ω-diepoxy terminals.

这些自由基类的聚合物具体可以是丙烯酸和/或乙烯的一些聚合物或一些共聚物。优选地使用一些阴离子自由基聚合物。These free-radical polymers may specifically be some polymers or some copolymers of acrylic acid and/or ethylene. Preferably some anionic free radical polymers are used.

作为这种自由基聚合作用时可以使用的带阴离子基团的单体,可以列举丙烯酸、甲基丙烯酸、巴豆酸、马来酸酐、2-丙烯酰胺-2-甲基丙烷磺酸。Examples of monomers having anionic groups that can be used in such radical polymerization include acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride, and 2-acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

这些丙烯酸聚合物可以由选自于丙烯酸酯或甲基丙烯酸酯和/或丙烯酸酰胺或甲基丙烯酸酰胺的单体缩聚得到。作为酯类单体的实例,可以列举甲基丙烯酸甲酯、甲基丙烯酸乙酯、甲基丙烯酸丁酯、甲基丙烯酸异丁酯、甲基丙烯酸2-乙基己酯、甲基丙烯酸月桂酯。作为酰胺类单体的实例,可以列举N-t-丁基丙烯酰胺和N-t-辛基丙烯酰胺。These acrylic polymers can be obtained by polycondensation of monomers selected from acrylate or methacrylate esters and/or acrylic acid amides or methacrylic amides. Examples of ester monomers include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate . As examples of amide-based monomers, N-t-butylacrylamide and N-t-octylacrylamide can be cited.

优选地,使用由含有亲水基团的烯属不饱和单体,优选的是非离子性质的烯属不饱和单体缩聚得到的丙烯酸聚合物,如丙烯酸羟乙酯、丙烯酸-2-羟丙酯、甲基丙烯酸羟乙酯、甲基丙烯酸-2-羟丙酯。Preferably, acrylic polymers obtained by polycondensation of ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing hydrophilic groups, preferably nonionic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate , Hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

这些乙烯聚合物可以由选自于乙烯酯、苯乙烯或于二烯的单体均聚合或共聚合得到。作为乙烯酯实例,可以列举乙酸乙烯酯、新十二酸乙烯酯、新戊酸乙烯酯、苯甲酸乙烯酯和t-丁基苯甲酸乙烯酯。These ethylene polymers may be obtained by homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters, styrene or dienes. As examples of vinyl esters, vinyl acetate, vinyl neododecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butylbenzoate may be cited.

还可以使用丙烯酸/硅氧烷共聚物,或硝基纤维素/丙烯酸共聚物。Acrylic/silicone copolymers, or nitrocellulose/acrylic copolymers may also be used.

这些天然来源的聚合物(或许改性的)可以选自于虫胶树脂、山达脂胶、达玛树脂、榄香脂、沽吧脂、纤维素衍生物和它们的混合物。These polymers of natural origin (possibly modified) may be selected from shellac resins, shandarin gums, dammar resins, elemi, butter, cellulose derivatives and mixtures thereof.

还可以列举在至少一种先存在的聚合物微粒内部和/或表面由一种或多种自由基单体经自由基聚合所生成的这些聚合物,所述的先存在的聚合物选自于由聚氨酯、聚脲、聚酯、聚酯酰胺和/或醇酸树脂组成的组中。Mention may also be made of these polymers produced by free-radical polymerization of one or more free-radical monomers in the interior and/or on the surface of at least one pre-existing polymer particle selected from the group consisting of In the group consisting of polyurethane, polyurea, polyester, polyesteramide and/or alkyd resins.

这种含有一种或多种成膜聚合物的含水分散液可以由本领域的技术人员根据其一般的知识进行制备。为了改善一种聚合物的成膜特性,例如降低它的玻璃态的温度,在这种分散液中加入一种聚结剂是可能的,这种聚结剂可以选自于已知的这些聚结剂。在本说明书中,“成膜聚合物分散液”应当理解为一种能够生成一种薄膜的、含有或不含有聚结剂的分散液。Such aqueous dispersions containing one or more film-forming polymers can be prepared by those skilled in the art according to their general knowledge. In order to improve the film-forming properties of a polymer, e.g. lower the temperature of its glass state, it is possible to add a coalescent to the dispersion, which can be selected from the known polymers Binder. In this specification, "film-forming polymer dispersion" is understood to be a dispersion capable of forming a film, with or without coalescent.

在本发明所述含水分散液中干物质的含量可以是约5-60%(重量),优选的是30-40%(重量)。The content of dry matter in the aqueous dispersion according to the invention may be about 5-60% by weight, preferably 30-40% by weight.

该组合物可以含有1-60%(重量),优选地5-40%(重量)成膜聚合物干物质。The composition may contain 1-60% by weight, preferably 5-40% by weight, of film-forming polymer dry matter.

含水分散液中聚合物微粒的尺寸可以是10-500nm,优选的是20-150nm,这样能够获得具有卓绝亮度的薄膜。The size of the polymer particles in the aqueous dispersion can be from 10 to 500 nm, preferably from 20 to 150 nm, so that a film with excellent brightness can be obtained.

为了实施本发明,能够获得沉积在这种载体上一种薄膜的这种聚合物系统因此是必不可少的。在这些实施例之前所限定的尺寸条件下,所述薄膜的杨氏模量应该小于约200MPa,优选的是小于100MPa,更优选的是小于80MPa。Such a polymer system capable of obtaining a thin film deposited on such a support is therefore essential in order to carry out the invention. Under the dimensional conditions defined before these examples, the Young's modulus of the film should be less than about 200 MPa, preferably less than 100 MPa, more preferably less than 80 MPa.

另外,按照一种优选的实施方式,所述的聚合物系统可以进行选择,以便能够获得一种具有下述特性的薄膜:In addition, according to a preferred embodiment, said polymer system can be selected so as to be able to obtain a film with the following properties:

·伸长超过约200%,优选地超过300%,和/或elongation of more than about 200%, preferably more than 300%, and/or

·硬度低于110,优选地低于70,更优选地低于55。• Hardness below 110, preferably below 70, more preferably below 55.

在这些实施例之前描述了伸长、硬度和杨氏模量(弹性模量)的测定方法。The methods for determining elongation, hardness and Young's modulus (modulus of elasticity) are described before these examples.

为了得到所要求的杨氏模量,或许硬度和/或伸长,除了成膜聚合物微粒的含水分散液外,本发明聚合物系统可以含有一种能够影响这种或这些特性的化合物,即一种增塑剂。In order to obtain the desired Young's modulus, perhaps hardness and/or elongation, in addition to the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles, the polymer system of the present invention may contain a compound capable of influencing this or these properties, i.e. A plasticizer.

所述的增塑剂可以选自于能够完成所要求功能的、本领域一般技术人员已知的任何化合物。这种增塑剂在水中是可溶的或不溶的,或许可以呈含水分散液形式。The plasticizer may be selected from any compound known to those of ordinary skill in the art capable of performing the desired function. Such plasticizers may be soluble or insoluble in water and may be in the form of an aqueous dispersion.

具体地,可以列举呈单一或混合形式的常见增塑剂,如:In particular, common plasticizers such as:

-乙二醇类及其衍生物,如二甘醇乙醚、二甘醇甲醚、二甘醇丁醚或二甘醇己醚、乙二醇乙醚、乙二醇丁醚、乙二醇己醚,- Glycols and their derivatives, such as diethylene glycol ethyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether or diethylene glycol hexyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol butyl ether, ethylene glycol hexyl ether ,

-甘油酯,- glycerides,

-丙二醇衍生物,具体是丙二醇苯醚、二乙酸丙二酯、二丙二醇丁醚、三丙二醇丁醚、丙二醇甲醚、二丙二醇乙醚、三丙二醇甲醚和二丙二醇甲醚、丙二醇丁醚,- propylene glycol derivatives, in particular propylene glycol phenyl ether, propylene glycol diacetate, dipropylene glycol butyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether, propylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, tripropylene glycol methyl ether and dipropylene glycol methyl ether, propylene glycol butyl ether,

-尤其是羧酸酯,如柠檬酸酯、苯二酸酯、己二酸酯、碳酸酯、酒石酸酯、磷酸酯、癸二酸酯,- especially carboxylic acid esters, such as citrates, phthalates, adipates, carbonates, tartrates, phosphates, sebacates,

-氧乙烯衍生物,如氧乙烯化油,具体是如蓖麻油之类的植物油;硅氧烷油,- oxyethylene derivatives, such as oxyethylated oils, in particular vegetable oils such as castor oil; silicone oils,

-水溶性的或呈含水分散液形式的一些聚合物,这些聚合物的玻璃态转化温度低,低于25℃,优选地低于15℃。- Some polymers, water soluble or in the form of an aqueous dispersion, which have a low glass transition temperature, below 25°C, preferably below 15°C.

增塑剂的量可以由本领域技术人员根据一般的知识进行选择,以便获得一种可得到一种薄膜的聚合物系统,这种薄膜具有所要求的机械性质,同时使该组合物保持化妆可接受的性质。The amount of plasticizer can be selected by a person skilled in the art based on general knowledge in order to obtain a polymer system which yields a film having the required mechanical properties while keeping the composition cosmetically acceptable nature.

这种组合物还可以含有化妆和化妆品领域中通常使用的至少一种水溶性染料和/或至少一种颜料。颜料应当理解为白色或彩色的、矿物或有机的、在该介质中不溶的微粒,这些微粒使该组合物着色和/或不透明。以最后组合物的重量计,在该组合物中这些颜料是0-20%(重量),优选的是1-5(重量)。这些颜料可以是白色的或彩色的、矿物的和/或有机的,具有常用的尺寸或纳米尺寸。在矿物颜料和毫微颜料中,可以列举钛、锆或铈的氧化物以及锌、铁或铬氧化物,正铁蓝。在有机颜料中,可以列举碳黑,和钡、锶、钙、铝漆。在水溶性染料中,可以列举所研究领域中常见的染料,如酸性红二钠盐、茜素绿二钠盐、喹啉黄、苋红三钠盐、酒石黄二钠盐、若丹明一钠盐、碱性品红二钠盐、叶黄素。This composition may also contain at least one water-soluble dye and/or at least one pigment commonly used in the field of make-up and cosmetics. Pigments are to be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble particles in the medium which render the composition colored and/or opaque. These pigments are present in the composition at 0-20% by weight, preferably 1-5% by weight, based on the weight of the final composition. These pigments can be white or colored, mineral and/or organic, and have customary dimensions or nanometer dimensions. Among the mineral pigments and nanopigments, mention may be made of oxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium and oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, iron blue. Among the organic pigments, carbon black, and barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum varnishes may be cited. Among the water-soluble dyes, common dyes in the research field can be listed, such as acid red disodium salt, alizarin green disodium salt, quinoline yellow, amaranth trisodium salt, tartrazine disodium salt, rhodamine Monosodium salt, basic fuchsin disodium salt, lutein.

在本发明组合物中还可以加入任何已知的添加剂,如增稠剂,例如粘土类、树胶类、硅土类、纤维素衍生物类、如丙烯酸聚合物或聚氨酯类型的相关聚合物之类的合成聚合物;天然树胶,如xanthane树胶;展着剂;分散剂;防腐剂;抗泡沫剂;润湿剂;紫外光防晒剂;香料;填料;化妆或药物活性剂;水合剂;维生素和它们的衍生物;生物物质和它们的衍生物。Any known additives such as thickeners such as clays, gums, silicas, cellulose derivatives, related polymers such as acrylic polymers or polyurethane types may also be added to the composition of the invention synthetic polymers of natural gums such as xanthane gum; spreading agents; dispersing agents; preservatives; antifoaming agents; wetting agents; UV sunscreens; fragrances; fillers; cosmetic or pharmaceutical actives; hydrating agents; vitamins and Their derivatives; biological substances and their derivatives.

当然,本领域的技术人员注意选择这种或这些可能的添加剂和/或它们的量,以便本发明组合物的有利性质不被所加的添加剂改变或基本不改变。Of course, the person skilled in the art takes care to select this or these possible additives and/or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not altered or not substantially altered by the additives added.

所得到的最后组合物的pH优选地低于9。这种组合物当然应该适于在如皮肤、粘膜和/或半粘膜之类的载体上沉积。The pH of the resulting final composition is preferably below 9. Such compositions should of course be suitable for deposition on carriers such as skin, mucous membranes and/or semi-mucosal membranes.

本发明的组合物可以呈液体、胶凝、半-固体、软糊状,甚至如棒或棍之类的固体状。The compositions of the present invention may be in the form of liquids, gels, semi-solids, soft pastes, or even solids such as sticks or sticks.

本发明的组合物具体用作化妆品,特别是用作口红、色底、脸颊膏或眼睑膏,或眼线膏。还可以用于能涂在皮肤、半粘膜和/或粘膜上的护理组合物、防晒组合物或自动晒黑组合物、皮肤病学组合物或药物组合物中。The compositions according to the invention are used in particular as cosmetics, especially as lipsticks, foundations, cheek or eye creams, or eyeliners. It can also be used in care compositions, sunscreen compositions or self-tanning compositions, dermatological or pharmaceutical compositions which can be applied to the skin, semi-mucosa and/or mucous membranes.

通过下述这些实施例可更详细地说明本发明。A/伸长的测定 The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the following examples. Determination of A/elongation

根据ASTM标准,06.01 D 2370-92卷“Standard Test Method for TensilProperties of Organic Coatings”,测定所得到薄膜的伸长。B/硬度的测定 The elongation of the obtained films was determined according to ASTM Standard, Volume 06.01 D 2370-92 "Standard Test Method for Tensil Properties of Organic Coatings". Determination of B/hardness

根据ASTM D-43-66标准或NF-T 30-016标准(1981年10月),用Persoz摆测定该薄膜的硬度。The hardness of the film was measured with a Persoz pendulum according to ASTM D-43-66 standard or NF-T 30-016 standard (October 1981).

沉积在该载体上的薄膜在干燥前应该具有约300微米的厚度。在30℃、相对湿度50%条件下干燥24小时后,得到一种厚度为约100微米的薄膜;这时在30℃、相对湿度50%条件下测定其硬度。C/杨氏模量(或弹性模量)的测定 The film deposited on the support should have a thickness of about 300 microns before drying. After drying at 30° C. and a relative humidity of 50 percent for 24 hours, a film with a thickness of about 100 μm was obtained; at this time, its hardness was measured at 30° C. and a relative humidity of 50 percent. Determination of C/Young's modulus (or elastic modulus)

根据ASTM标准,06.01 D 2370-92卷“Standard Test Method for TensilProperties of Organic Coatings”,测定杨氏模量(或弹性模量)。Young's modulus (or elastic modulus) is determined according to ASTM standard, Volume 06.01 D 2370-92 "Standard Test Method for Tensil Properties of Organic Coatings".

沉积在该载体上的薄膜在干燥前应该具有约300微米的厚度。在21℃、相对湿度50%条件下干燥7天后,得到一种厚度为约100微米的薄膜;The film deposited on the support should have a thickness of about 300 microns before drying. After drying for 7 days at 21°C and 50% relative humidity, a film with a thickness of about 100 microns was obtained;

所测定这些试样的宽度5毫米、厚度100微米。凹口之间的距离是25毫米。拉伸速度是每分钟1000毫米。These samples were measured to have a width of 5 mm and a thickness of 100 µm. The distance between the notches is 25 mm. The drawing speed is 1000 mm per minute.

在实施例1中,还进行了每分钟10毫米的拉伸速度的测定。实施例1 In Example 1, the measurement of the tensile speed of 10 mm per minute was also carried out. Example 1

制备一些含有不同聚合物的含水分散液。将这种组合物沉积在一种载体上,生成一种薄膜。测定所得到薄膜的杨氏模量,可以知道这种薄膜在嘴唇上的稳定性。Several aqueous dispersions containing different polymers were prepared. The composition is deposited on a support to form a thin film. By measuring the Young's modulus of the obtained film, the stability of the film on the lips can be known.

用两种速度测定了杨氏膜量:10毫米/分钟和1000毫米/分钟。Young's film mass was measured at two speeds: 10 mm/min and 1000 mm/min.

得到下述结果:     聚合物 杨氏模量(MPa)1000毫米/分钟 杨氏模量(MPa)10毫米/分钟     目视观察     聚氨酯1SANCURE 2060     434     553 在唇中间很快龟裂;在唇侧边自行剥离     聚氨酯2SANCURE 815     370     501 在唇中间龟裂;少许时间后在唇侧边自行剥离     聚氨酯3SANCURE 898     217     341 在中间有点龟裂;自行剥离     聚氨酯4NEOREZ R981     168.1      - 不容易龟裂;唇侧不自行剥离     聚氨酯5SANCURE 878     75.1     46.9 非常不容易龟裂;不自行剥离     聚氨酯6SANCURE 861     44.3     16.1 不龟裂;不自行剥离;非常柔软     聚氨酯7SANCURE 2255     5.5     9,8 不容易龟裂;唇侧不自行剥离; 聚氨酯1、2和4是聚氨酯/聚酯。聚氨酯5和6是聚氨酯/聚醚。The following result is obtained: polymer Young's modulus (MPa) 1000mm/min Young's modulus (MPa) 10mm/min visual observation Polyurethane 1SANCURE 2060 434 553 Cracks quickly in middle of lip; self-peeling at sides of lip Polyurethane 2SANCURE 815 370 501 Cracks in the middle of the lip; peels off on the sides of the lip after a while Polyurethane 3 SANCURE 898 217 341 Slightly cracked in the middle; peels off on its own Polyurethane 4NEOREZ R981 168.1 - Not easy to crack; lip side does not peel off by itself Polyurethane 5 SANCURE 878 75.1 46.9 Very resistant to cracking; does not peel off by itself Polyurethane 6SANCURE 861 44.3 16.1 No cracking; no self-peeling; very soft Polyurethane 7 SANCURE 2255 5.5 9,8 It is not easy to crack; the lip side does not peel off by itself; Polyurethanes 1, 2 and 4 are polyurethane/polyester. Polyurethanes 5 and 6 are polyurethane/polyether.

因此,人们可看到,当该聚合物能够得到一种以每分钟1000毫米速度测定的杨氏模量低于约200MPa的薄膜时,可得到具有良好稳定性和相当柔软的合适薄膜。这相应于用10毫米/分钟测定的低于约340MPa的杨氏模量。实施例2 Thus, one can see that when the polymer is capable of giving a film having a Young's modulus of less than about 200 MPa measured at a speed of 1000 millimeters per minute, suitable films of good stability and considerable flexibility are obtained. This corresponds to a Young's modulus of less than about 340 MPa measured with 10 mm/min. Example 2

制备具有下述组成的眼线膏:An eyeliner with the following composition was prepared:

·聚氨酯含水分散液·Polyurethane aqueous dispersion

(杨氏模量:以1000毫米/分钟测定为44.3MPa)      95克(Young's modulus: 44.3 MPa measured at 1000 mm/min) 95 grams

·颜料                                        2克·Pigment 2 grams

·增塑剂(甘油)                                1.25克·Plasticizer (glycerin) 1.25g

得到一种容易涂在眼周线上的组合物,得到一条光滑线,不转移,不流动。实施例3 Get a composition that glides easily on the eye contour line for a smooth line that doesn't transfer or runny. Example 3

制备具有下述组成的口红:A lipstick having the following composition was prepared:

·聚氨酯含水分散液·Polyurethane aqueous dispersion

(杨氏模量:以1000毫米/分钟测定为75MPa)    95克(Young's modulus: 75MPa measured at 1000 mm/min) 95 grams

·颜料                                    1克·Pigment 1 gram

·增塑剂(甘油)                            1.25克·Plasticizer (glycerin) 1.25g

得到一种容易涂在嘴唇上的组合物;所得到的薄膜是非常光亮的;不转移且在皱褶中不迁移;很好耐用,随嘴唇运动。实施例4(对比实施例) A composition is obtained which is easy to apply on the lips; the film obtained is very glossy; does not transfer and does not migrate in creases; is very durable and follows the movement of the lips. Embodiment 4 (comparative example)

制备具有下述组成的口红:A lipstick having the following composition was prepared:

·聚氨酯含水分散液·Polyurethane aqueous dispersion

(杨氏模量:以1000毫米/分钟测定为434MPa)    95克(Young's modulus: 434MPa measured at 1000 mm/min) 95 grams

·颜料                                     1克·Pigment 1 gram

·增塑剂(甘油)                             1.25克·Plasticizer (glycerin) 1.25g

得到一种涂在嘴唇后很快龟裂的薄膜。Gets a film that cracks very quickly after application on the lips.

Claims (36)

1, the application of a kind of polymer system in a kind of compositions that can be coated on skin, half mucosa and/or the mucosa, described polymer system contains a kind of aqueous dispersion of film forming polymer microgranule, and it can access a kind of thin film that Young's modulus is lower than about 200MPa that has.
2, a kind of polymer system or a kind of compositions that contains this system are handled skin, half mucosa and/or mucosa at cosmetic, protection and/or non-therapeutic; the particularly application on lip; described polymer system contains a kind of aqueous dispersion of film forming polymer microgranule, can also obtain a kind of thin film that Young's modulus is lower than about 200MPa that has.
3, a kind of polymer system or a kind of compositions of this system that contains are at therapeutic treatment skin, half mucosa and/or mucosa, the particularly application of lip aspect, described polymer system contains a kind of aqueous dispersion of film forming polymer microgranule, can also obtain a kind of thin film that Young's modulus is lower than about 200MPa that has.
4, according to the described application of arbitrary claim in the aforesaid right requirement, so that obtain a kind of thin film that has good stability and/or do not shift and/or do not move and/or do not stain.
5, require according to aforesaid right in the described application of arbitrary claim so that obtain a kind of on skin soft and/or flexible and/or flexible thin film and/or a kind of with skin movements and/or the thin film that does not chap and/or do not peel off voluntarily.
6, according to the described application of arbitrary claim in the aforesaid right requirement, so that obtain a kind of thin film of light.
7, according to the described application of arbitrary claim in the aforesaid right requirement, wherein said film forming polymer is selected from polyurethane, polyurethane-acrylate, polyurethane-polypyrrole alkane ketone, polyureas, polyurea/polyurethane, polyester-polyurethane, polyethers-polyurethane, polyester, polyesteramide, the polyester with aliphatic chain, polyamide, epoxy ester resin, acrylic acid and/or ethene polymers or copolymer; Acrylic acid-silicone copolymers; NC Nitroncellulose-acrylic copolymer; The polymer of the perhaps modification of natural origin; Cellulose derivative; At at least a polymer particles that pre-exists inner and/or surface by one or more free radical monomers through these polymer that radical polymerization generated, the described polymer that pre-exists is selected from the group of being made up of polyurethane, polyureas, polyester, polyesteramide and/or alkyd resins and their mixture.
8, according to the described application of arbitrary claim in the aforesaid right requirement, the size that wherein is the polymer particles of aqueous dispersion shape is 10-500nm, preferably 20-150nm.
9, according to the described application of arbitrary claim in the aforesaid right requirement, wherein said composition contains 1-60% (weight), preferably 5-40% (weight) film forming polymer dry.
10, according to the described application of arbitrary claim in the aforesaid right requirement, wherein said polymer system can access a kind of Young's modulus and be lower than about 100MPa, preferably is lower than the thin film of 80MPa.
11, require according to aforesaid right in the described application of arbitrary claim, wherein said polymer system can access elongation and be higher than approximately 200%, preferably is higher than 300%, and/or hardness is lower than 110, preferably is lower than 70, a kind of thin film more preferably less than 55.
12, according to the described application of arbitrary claim in the aforesaid right requirement, wherein this polymer system also contains a kind of plasticizer.
13, application according to claim 12, wherein said plasticizer is selected from glycols and derivant thereof; Glyceride; Propanediol derivative; Acid esters as citrate, ester of phthalic acid, adipate ester, carbonic ester, tartrate, phosphate ester, sebacate and so on; Oxygen ethene derivatives as oil and so on; Water miscible or be some polymer of aqueous dispersion form, the glass transition temperature of these polymer is lower, is lower than 25 ℃, is preferably lower than 15 ℃ and their mixture.
14, according to the described application of arbitrary claim in the aforesaid right requirement, wherein said composition also contains at least a water-soluble dye and/or at least a pigment.
15, application according to claim 14, wherein said pigment are 0-20% (weight) in the compositions in the end, preferably 1-5% (weight).
16, according to the described application of arbitrary claim among the claim 14-15, wherein said pigment is selected from the oxide of oxide, zinc, ferrum or the chromium of titanium, zirconium or cerium, positive barba hispanica, carbon black, barium, cerium, calcium, alumin(i)um paint and their ultramicro-pigment.
17, application according to claim 14, wherein water-soluble dye is selected from Xylene Red disodium salt, the green disodium salt of alizarin, D C Yellow No. 10, the red trisodium salt of Herba Amaranthi tricoloris, tartrazines disodium salt, rhodamine one sodium salt, basic fuchsin disodium salt, phylloxanthin.
18, require according to aforesaid right in arbitrary claim described at the bottom of such as lipstick, color, cheek cream or eye shadow, or in eyeliner and so on the cosmetics; In care composition; In sunscreen composition; Application in automatic tanned compositions.
19, can be coated in compositions on skin, half-mucosa and/or the mucosa, said composition contains a kind of polymer system that comprises a kind of aqueous dispersion of film forming polymer microgranule, and described polymer system can access a kind of thin film that Young's modulus is lower than about 200MPa that has.
20, compositions according to claim 19, described compositions can access a kind of thin film that has good stability and/or do not shift and/or do not move and/or do not stain after coating.
21, according to the described compositions of arbitrary claim among the claim 19-20, described compositions can access a kind of thin film of light after coating.
22, according to the described compositions of arbitrary claim among the claim 19-21, wherein said film forming polymer is selected from polyurethane, polyurethane-acrylate, polyurethane-polypyrrole alkane ketone, polyureas, polyurea/polyurethane, polyester-polyurethane, polyethers-polyurethane, polyester, polyesteramide, the polyester with aliphatic chain, polyamide, epoxy ester resin, acrylic acid and/or ethene polymers or copolymer; Acrylic acid-silicone copolymers; NC Nitroncellulose-acrylic copolymer; The polymer of the perhaps modification of natural origin; Cellulose derivative; At at least a polymer particles that pre-exists inner and/or surface by one or more free radical monomers through these polymer that radical polymerization generated, the described polymer that pre-exists is selected from the group of being made up of polyurethane, polyureas, polyester, polyesteramide and/or alkyd resins and their mixture.
23, according to the described compositions of arbitrary claim among the claim 19-22, the size that wherein is the polymer particles of aqueous dispersion shape is 10-500nm, preferably 20-150nm.
24, according to the described compositions of arbitrary claim among the claim 19-23, wherein said composition contains 1-60% (weight), preferably 5-40% (weight) film forming polymer dry.
25, according to the described compositions of arbitrary claim among the claim 19-24, wherein said polymer system can access a kind of Young's modulus and be lower than about 100MPa, preferably is lower than the thin film of 80MPa.
26, according to the described compositions of arbitrary claim among the claim 19-25, wherein said polymer system can access elongation and be higher than approximately 200%, preferably is higher than 300%, and/or hardness is lower than 110, preferably is lower than 70, a kind of thin film more preferably less than 55.
27, according to the described compositions of arbitrary claim among the claim 19-26, wherein this polymer system also contains a kind of plasticizer.
28, compositions according to claim 27, wherein said plasticizer is selected from glycols and derivant thereof; Glyceride; Propanediol derivative; Acid esters as citrate, ester of phthalic acid, adipate ester, carbonic ester, tartrate, phosphate ester, sebacate and so on; Oxygen ethene derivatives as oil and so on; Water miscible or be some polymer of aqueous dispersion form, the glass transition temperature of these polymer is lower, is lower than 25 ℃, is preferably lower than 15 ℃ and their mixture.
29, according to the described compositions of arbitrary claim among the claim 19-28, wherein said composition also contains at least a water-soluble dye and/or at least a pigment.
30, compositions according to claim 29, wherein said pigment are 0-20% (weight) in the compositions in the end, preferably 1-5% (weight).
31, according to the described compositions of arbitrary claim among the claim 29-30, wherein said pigment is selected from the oxide of oxide, zinc, ferrum or the chromium of titanium, zirconium or cerium, positive barba hispanica, carbon black, barium, cerium, calcium, alumin(i)um paint and their ultramicro-pigment.
32, compositions according to claim 29, wherein water-soluble dye is selected from Xylene Red disodium salt, the green disodium salt of alizarin, D C Yellow No. 10, the red trisodium salt of Herba Amaranthi tricoloris, tartrazines disodium salt, rhodamine one sodium salt, basic fuchsin disodium salt, phylloxanthin.
33, according to the described compositions of arbitrary claim among the claim 19-32, said composition is used for making up, protects and/or handles skin, half mucosa and/or mucosa.
34, according to the described compositions of arbitrary claim among the claim 19-33, said composition be as at the bottom of lipstick, the color, cheek cream or eye shadow, or the cosmetics form of eyeliner and so on.
35, according to the described compositions of arbitrary claim among the claim 19-33, said composition is care composition, dermatological compositions, pharmaceutical composition, sunscreen composition, the automatic tanned composition forms that is coated on skin, half mucosa and/or the mucosa.
36, the nothing that contains kind of polymer system shifts the lipstick compositions, said composition contains a kind of polymer system that comprises a kind of aqueous dispersion of film forming polymer microgranule, and described polymer system can access a kind of thin film that Young's modulus is lower than about 200MPa that has.
CN 97117462 1996-07-24 1997-07-24 Composition comprising polymeric system and use of said system, in particular in cosmetics Pending CN1179302A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN 97117462 CN1179302A (en) 1996-07-24 1997-07-24 Composition comprising polymeric system and use of said system, in particular in cosmetics

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9609319 1996-07-24
CN 97117462 CN1179302A (en) 1996-07-24 1997-07-24 Composition comprising polymeric system and use of said system, in particular in cosmetics

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
CN1179302A true CN1179302A (en) 1998-04-22

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CN 97117462 Pending CN1179302A (en) 1996-07-24 1997-07-24 Composition comprising polymeric system and use of said system, in particular in cosmetics

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Country Link
CN (1) CN1179302A (en)

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