DE102005011957A1 - New hair treatment composition containing L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair treatment agent containing at least one compound selected from L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives. Furthermore, the invention relates to a method for extracorporeal analysis of hair follicle cells, a method for extracorporeal determination of the ATP synthesis rate in hair follicle cells, and a test method for demonstrating the efficacy of cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents for maintaining or promoting the homeostasis of the hair follicle or for the treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle and a screening method for the identification of cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents for maintaining or promoting the homeostasis of the hair follicle or for treating pathological conditions of the hair follicle and a method for producing a cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation for maintaining or promoting the homeostasis of the hair follicle for the treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle.

Description

The The present invention relates to a hair treatment composition containing at least one compound selected from L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives. Furthermore, the invention relates to a method for extracorporeal Analysis of hair follicle cells, a procedure for extracorporeal Determination of ATP synthesis rate in hair follicle cells, also a Test method to demonstrate the efficacy of cosmetic or pharmaceutical Active ingredients for maintaining or promoting the homeostasis of Hair follicle or for the treatment of pathological conditions of the Hair follicle and a screening method for the identification of cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents for maintenance or promotion the homeostasis of the hair follicle or for the treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle and a method of making a cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation for maintenance or promotion the homeostasis of the hair follicle or for the treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle

L-carnitine is a vitamin-like Active ingredient, which is related to the vitamins of the B-complex and essential important for the energy production and the fat metabolism of the human body is. For this reason, L-carnitine especially as a dietary supplement used (US20040170709 A1). Just as L-carnitine also finds L-carnitine tartrate Use as a nutritional supplement, e.g. to support weight loss (US20040028668 A1).

ATP (Adenosine triphosphate) is the universal storage form for chemical Energy in cells. In the cleavage of the distal phosphate group arises ADP and Pi (inorganic phosphate). This reaction is strong exergon, i. it releases energy. ATP is produced in cellular, oxidative Degradation of fats, carbohydrates and proteins. ATP serves the cell, also the biologically active cells of the hair follicle, as an energy supplier for biochemical Syntheses and transport processes. These processes are endergon, i. they only run with energy. For your Metabolism and cellular Optimal structures to maintain and renew are cells So rely on an adequate supply of ATP. So is for example, the proliferation and differentiation of ORS keratinocytes (Keratinocytes of the outer root sheath, "outer root sheath ") the ATP synthesis coupled, since for both processes the biosynthesis of specific proteins is essential is. For example, dermal papilla cells also require production of growth factors and thus to control the hair cycle ATP. Therefore, an adequate supply of the hair follicle with ATP essential requirement for strong, vital and healthy hair.

The Amount of a hair-active ingredient, usually transdermal and especially transfollukular up penetrate to the hair bulb, is extremely low and depends essentially from the physicochemical properties of the substance itself (e.g. Size, charge, Lipophilicity) and the choice of formulation.

hair follicle cells are subject to a genetically determined cycle of growth, regression, and rest phase. The hair follicle is thus the only organ that constantly self renewed and thus one, depending on the particular Growth phase, unique metabolism. So comes the Hair follicle metabolism in resting phase almost entirely to Succumb and will with every new beginning of another cycle also newly initiated.

controlled This cycle is from a small, highly specialized cell population in the Haarbulbus, the dermal Papillenzellen, by a complex Set of molecular signals specific to each phase of the hair cycle is to control hair growth (Botchkarev VA et al. (2003) J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 8: 46-55).

Surprisingly was found that through topical application of L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives hairy skin, especially the scalp, the metabolism of this highly specialized Cells are modulated and stimulates ATP synthesis in the hair follicle can be.

The The present invention therefore relates to a hair treatment composition, containing at least one compound that is selected under L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives, wherein the L-carnitine derivatives are selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and especially L-carnitine tartrate.

The L-carnitine compounds mentioned are, for example, from the company Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany) available.

By the treatment of hair with L-carnitine derivatives, preferably L-carnitine tartrate, in a hair treatment agent, for example a hair tonic appropriate formulation, the amount of ATP in the treated follicles be significantly increased compared to a placebo formulation. Treatment with L-carnitine tartrate of a rinse-off formulation leads as well to a significant increase of ATP content in plucked hair follicles. This is the biological active part of the hair significantly more ATP as an energy source for biochemical Syntheses and transport processes to disposal posed, allowing metabolic processes and cellular structures optimally maintained and renewed.

The Penetration of drugs to the follicle is usually difficult since the corresponding target, the dermal papilla and the ORS keratinocytes, 2 mm deep embedded in the scalp. The usage of Increased liposomes the penetration of an active ingredient so that liposomally encapsulated L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives according to the invention very good Act. Surprisingly it was found that L-carnitine or the L-carnitine derivatives used even a sufficient Penetration to the site of action when the use of liposomes for technical reasons not possible is.

The Hair treatment agent according to the invention may be L-carnitine and / or an L-carnitine derivative or also contain several mutually different L-carnitine derivatives.

L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives are in the agent according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total Preparation, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 10 wt .-% are special Preferably, amounts of 0.5 to 3 wt .-% are particularly preferred, and amounts of 1 to 2 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.

The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise protein hydrolysates, preferably cationized protein hydrolysates, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate is derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms, from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxyprop yltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein , Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurydimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen , Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimoni around hydro xypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Regarding the timing is subject to the use of the agent according to the invention no restrictions. It is possible in principle two separate preparations containing (a) L-carnitine or an L-carnitine derivative and (b) at least one further component in succession in any one Order on the hair. This should, however between steps (a) and (b) not too long in time Distance, so that the Do not dry hair between steps.

Even though the agent of the invention in principle can remain on the hair, the agent is preferred rinsed after an exposure time of 10 seconds to 60 hours. This rinse can be done with pure water or a regular shampoo. Exposure times from 1 to 15 minutes have proven sufficient in most cases.

Independent of the exact course of treatment has proven to be advantageous the agent of the invention at a temperature of 20 to 55 ° C, in particular from 35 to 40 ° C, apply.

Regarding the type, according to the agent of the invention Applied to the hair, there are no fundamental restrictions.

According to the invention of particular Haartonics is of interest, especially as a leave on formulation. These are preferably used at room temperature, the alcoholic Content is preferred in the range of about 30% to about 35% and the pH should be about at pH 7. Especially at Haartonics has the use liposome-encapsulated L-carnitine and L-carnitine derivatives, respectively proved to be advantageous.

When Preparation of the preparations containing the agent according to the invention For example, creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (emulsions according to the teaching of phase inversion, Called PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, sprays, Aerosols and foam aerosols suitable. These are usually on aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic Basis formulated. The alcoholic component is lower Alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol can in the watery alcoholic Base in a weight ratio from 1:10 to 10: 1. Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures, which up to 50 wt .-%, in particular up to 25 wt .-%, based on alcohol to the mixture alcohol / water, can according to the invention preferred Be fundamentals. The pH of these preparations can in principle at values of 2-11 lie. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of 3 to 5 are particularly preferred. To adjust this pH can virtually every one for cosmetic use acid or base can be used. Usually be called acids Consumed acids. Be under enjoyment of acids such acids understood that under the usual Food intake and positive effects to have the human organism. Eat acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. in the The invention is the use of citric acid and lactic acid particularly preferred. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, Triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

The Medium can be made up as a single-chamber system or as a two-chamber system become.

Next the invention mandatory required L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivative the agent can in principle all others, the expert for such cosmetic agent known components.

• – nichtionogene Tenside wie beispielsweise Alkylphenolpolyglycolether, Fettsäurepolyglycolester, Fettsäureamidpolyglycolether, Fettaminpolyglycolether, alkoxylierte Triglyceride, wie insbesondere ethoxyliertes Rizinusöl, Alk(en)yloligoglucoside, Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide, Polyolfettsäureester, Zuckerester, Sorbitanester und Polysorbate. Sofern die nichtionischen Tenside Polyglycoletherketten enthalten, können sie eine konventionelle oder eingeengte Homologenverteilung aufweisen.
• – anionische Tenside, insbesondere Alkylsulfate, Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate und Ethercarbonsäuren mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und bis zu 12 Glykolethergruppen im Molekül, Seifen sowie Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und
• – dialkylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethyl-ester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – zwitterionische Tenside, insbesondere die sogenannten Betaine wie die N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosalkyl-dimethylammonium-glycinat, N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, und 2-Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe sowie das Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat,
• – ampholytische Tenside wie beispielsweise N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylpropionsäuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkyl-aminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – nichtionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copoly mere, Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere und Polysiloxane,
• – Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z. B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylalkohol,
• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecitin und Kephaline, sowie Silikonöle,
• – Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Lösungsmittel und -vermittler wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol,
• – symmetrische und unsymmetrische, lineare und verzweigte Dialkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether und Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether,
• – Fettalkohole, insbesondere lineare und/oder gesättigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, und Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 6 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – faserstrukturverbessernde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide, wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
• – konditionierende Wirkstoffe wie Paraffinöle, pflanzliche Öle, z. B. Sonnenblumenöl, Orangenöl, Mandelöl, Weizenkeimöl und Pfirsichkernöl sowie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecithin und Kephaline,
• – quaternierte Amine wie Methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium-methosulfat,
• – Entschäumer wie Silikone,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Lichtschutzmittel, insbesondere derivatisierte Benzophenone, Zimtsäure-Derivate und Triazine,
• – weitere Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH-Wertes, wie beispielsweise α- und β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren
• – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,
• – Cholesterin,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Fette und Wachse wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs und Paraffine,
• – Fettsäurealkanolamide,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Glycerin, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Reduktionsmittel wie z. B. Thioglykolsäure und deren Derivate, Thiomilchsäure, Cysteamin, Thioäpfelsäure und α-Mercaptoethansulfonsäure,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

• Nonionic surfactants such as, for example, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, in particular ethoxylated castor oil, alk (en) yl oligoglucosides, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters and polysorbates. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional or narrow homolog distribution.
• - anionic surfactants, in particular alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, soaps and sulfosuccinic mono- and
• Dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• Zwitterionic surfactants, in particular the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate,
• Ampholytic surfactants such as N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group,
• Nonionic polymers such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
• Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,
• Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
• - symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether,
• Fatty alcohols, in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
• - Conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil, as well as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
• Quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
• Defoamers like silicones,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Antidandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine and Climbazole,
• - light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines,
• - Other substances for adjusting the pH, such as α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids
• - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
• - cholesterol,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants.

The inventive agent can also Containing surfactants. These can be both anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants as well to act cationic surfactants.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, for example in a shampoo, a combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants or a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants used. However, in a hair tonic, the skilled person can also largely or Completely refrain from the use of surfactants.

It has in individual cases proved to be advantageous, the surfactants from amphoteric or nonionic surfactants select.

When Anionic surfactants are all suitable for use in compositions according to the invention on the human body suitable anionic surface-active Substances. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 10 up to 22 C atoms. additionally can in the molecule Glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga sowie
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, and
• - Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R ¹ O- (Z) _X. These connections are identified by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R ¹ contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R ¹ . Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.

• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen besteht.

Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R ¹

• Consisting essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• Essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Consists essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ -alkyl groups.

When Sugar component Z can any mono- or oligosaccharides are used. Usually Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, Galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, Gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The usable according to the invention Alkyl polyglycosides contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x 1.1 to 1.4.

In addition to their surfactant action, the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair. The expert is so in the event that one over the duration of Haarbehandlung beyond effect of the perfume oil on the hair is desired, preferably resort to this class of substance as a further ingredient of the preparations of the invention.

Also The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can be used according to the invention become. These homologs can an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COOL ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Also particularly suitable as co-surfactants are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12-18 acylsarcosine.

According to the invention as cationic surfactants, especially those of the quaternary ammonium type, the esterquats and amidoamines used.

preferred quaternary Ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and Bromides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above surfactants are preferred 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain at least one ester function as well as at least one quaternary ammonium group as structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-Palmitoyloxy- ethyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native vegetable or animal raw materials, so that you substance mixtures obtained with different, depending on the raw material alkyl chain lengths.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologues which are used in the reaction of Fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

Regarding further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used expressly on the specialist manuals known to those skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, Basics and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

One Another object of the present invention is the use of L-carnitine and / or at least one L-carnitine derivative selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate for revitalizing hair, stimulating energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or reinforcement hair growth, hair thickening, hair loss and treatment for influencing the keratin synthesis, or for hair conditioning.

One Another object of the present invention is a method for revitalizing hair, stimulating energy metabolism in Hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of the Hair growth or for hair conditioning, characterized that he an inventive agent on the hair or the hairy skin.

• a) mindestens ein Haar unter Erhalt des Haarfollikels aus behaarter Haut gewinnt und
• b) den mindestens einen Haarfollikel auf die Expression haarspezifischer Faktoren untersucht.

Another object of the present invention is a method for extracorporeal analysis of hair follicle cells, which is characterized in that

• a) wins at least one hair to preserve the hair follicle from hairy skin and
• b) examining the at least one hair follicle for the expression of hair-specific factors.

The the current state of the art methods for investigation of hair follicle cells include in vitro and in vivo analyzes. In vitro systems Although they are well suited to detect cellular effects, they are but due to their model character only of limited relevance for the in-vivo situation. The common ones In vivo studies include trichograms or phototrichograms, Hair density measurements, histological evaluation of punch biopsies, Hair weighting and global photographs.

These Methods are often only feasible at high cost and time and only a small number of measurable parameters. In addition, will cellular Effects over the parameter "hair growth" does not go out detected. About that In addition, analyzes of various types of plucked hair from the Literature known, often restrict But you are on a status determination of the plucked hair, or they only highlight individual aspects in terms of effectiveness and compatibility of active ingredients.

at The prior art methods use 10-20 hairs for the measurements needed in the method according to the invention however, a single hair is sufficient for extracorporeal analysis. Also done the measurement according to state the technique after a treatment period of several weeks. With the method set out in the context of the present invention succeeds it to prove such effects already after 15h.

The Assessment of pigmentation in hair follicles takes place in the state the technique usually by determining the content of melanin. Since the production of Melanin, however, a very late Event is in the process of pigmentation, can use this method in the short term effects to be achieved can not be proven. In the method according to the invention become growth factors involved in pigmentation, receptors and proteins that are already at very early stages of the pigmentation process expremiert, examined, so as early occurring effects capture.

• – HGF, KGF, SCF, cmet, nkibeteb, TRP1, TRP2, NCAM, IGFBP3, TGFβ-1, TGFβ-2, TGF-Rezeptor, IGF und Versican,
• – den in den Patentanmeldungen DE-A-102 60 931.4-41 und DE-A-103 40 373.6-41 der Anmelderin identifizierten Markern,
• – Entzündungmediatoren, z.B. Interleukinen (IL-8, IL1, IL8 ect.), Interferony (IFN-y), TNFa, etc.,
• – Apoptosemarkern (z. B. Caspasen, Heat shock proteine), Haarkeratinen, insbesondere: hHa1, hHa2, hHa3-I, hHa3-II, hHa4, hHa5, hHa6 sowie hHb1, hHb2, hHb3, hHb5, hHb6 und
• – Bone morphogenic protein 4 (BMP4), Bone morphogenic protein 2 (BMP2), vanilloid receptor-1, Proopiomeianocortin (POMC), Adrenocorticotropic hormon (ACTH)

By the method according to the invention preferably to be analyzed factors are for example selected from

• - HGF, KGF, SCF, cmet, nkibeteb, TRP1, TRP2, NCAM, IGFBP3, TGFβ-1, TGFβ-2, TGF receptor, IGF and versican
• The markers identified in Applicant's patent applications DE-A-102 60 931.4-41 and DE-A-103 40 373.6-41,
• - inflammatory mediators, eg interleukins (IL-8, IL1, IL8 ect.), Interferon (IFN-y), TNFa, etc.,
• - apoptotic markers (eg caspases, heat shock proteins), hair keratins, especially: hHa1, hHa2, hHa3-I, hHa3-II, hHa4, hHa5, hHa6 and hHb1, hHb2, hHb3, hHb5, hHb6 and
• - Bone morphogenic protein 4 (BMP4), Bone morphogenic protein 2 (BMP2), vanilloid receptor-1, Proopiomeianocortin (POMC), Adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH)

• i. Ein- oder zweidimensionaler Gelelektrophorese
• ii. Affinitätschromatographie
• iii. Protein-Protein-Komplexierung in Lösung
• iv. ELISA (Enzyme-linked Immunosorbent Assay)
• v. enzymgekoppelte Stoffwechelassays
• vi. Massenspektrometrie, insbesondere Matrix Assistierter Laser Desorptions Ionisation (MALDI) und insbesondere
• vii. Einsatz von Proteinchips, Northern Blots,
• viii. Reverse Transkriptase Polymerasekettenreaktion (RT-PCR),
• ix. RNase-Schutzexperimente,
• x. Dot-Blots,
• xi. CDNA-Sequenzierung,
• xii. Klon-Hybridisierung,
• xiii. Differential Display,
• xiv. Subtraktive Hybridisierung,
• xv. cDNA-Fragment-Fingerprinting,
• xvi. Durchflusszytometrieanalysen,
• xvii. Serielle Analyse der Genexpression (SAGE) und insbesondere
• xviii. Einsatz von Nukleinsäurechips, oder mittels geeigneter Kombinationen dieser Methoden.

The investigation in step b of the method according to the invention is preferably carried out by means of a method which is selected from

• i. One- or two-dimensional gel electrophoresis
• ii. affinity
• iii. Protein-protein complexation in solution
• iv. ELISA (enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay)
• v. enzyme-linked metabolism assays
• vi. Mass spectrometry, in particular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization (MALDI) and in particular
• vii. Use of protein chips, Northern blots,
• viii. Reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR),
• ix. RNase protection experiments
• x. Dot blots,
• xi. CDNA sequencing,
• xii. Clone hybridization,
• xiii. Differential display,
• xiv. Subtractive hybridization,
• xv. cDNA fragment fingerprinting,
• xvi. flow cytometry analysis,
• xvii. Serial analysis of gene expression (SAGE) and in particular
• xviii. Use of nucleic acid chips, or by means of suitable combinations of these methods.

These can be used according to the invention Methods are in the review articles by Akhilesh Pandey and Matthias Mann: "Proteomics to study genes and genomes ", Nature, Volume 405, Number 6788, 837-846 (2000), and "Genomics, gene expression and DNA arrays ", Nature, Volume 405, Number 6788, 827-836 (2000), and those cited therein References are described, to which reference is hereby made in their entirety becomes.

The 2D gel electrophoresis is described, for example, in L.D. Adams, two-dimensional Gel electrophoresis using the Isodalt system or in L.D. Adams & S.R. Gallagher, Two-dimensional gel electrophoresis using the O'Farrell system; both in current protocols in Molecular Biology (1997, Eds. F.M. Ausubel et al.), Unit 10.3.1-10.4.13; or in 2-D electrophoresis manual; T. Berkelman, T. Senstedt; Amersham Pharmacia Biotech, 1998 (Order No. 80-6429-60).

• Methods in Molecular Biology, 1999; Vol 112; 2-D Proteome Analysis Protocols; Editor: A. J. Link; Humana Press; Totowa; New Jersey. Darin insbesondere: Courchesne, P. L. und Patterson, S. D.; S. 487-512.
• Carr, S. A. und Annan, R. S.; 1997; in: Current Protocols in Molecular Biology; Editor: Ausubel, F. M. et al.; John Wiley and Sons, Inc. 10.2.1-10.21.27.

The mass spectrometric characterization of the proteins or protein fragments is carried out in a manner known in the art, for example as described in the following references:

• Methods in Molecular Biology, 1999; Vol 112; 2-D Proteome Analysis Protocols; Editor: AJ Link; Humana Press; Totowa; New Jersey. In particular: Courchesne, PL and Patterson, SD; Pp. 487-512.
• Carr, SA and Annan, RS; 1997; in: Current Protocols in Molecular Biology; Editor: Ausubel, FM et al .; John Wiley and Sons, Inc. 10.2.1-10.21.27.

It can but according to the invention also other methods known to those skilled in the art for the study of expression hair-specific factors.

• a. mindestens ein Haar unter Erhalt des Haarfollikels aus behaarter Haut gewinnt und
• b. die ATP-Syntheserate in dem mindestens einen Haarfollikel bestimmt.

Another object of the present invention is a method for extracorporeal determination of ATP synthesis rate in hair follicle cells, characterized in that

• a. wins at least one hair while preserving the hair follicle from hairy skin and
• b. determines the ATP synthesis rate in the at least one hair follicle.

ATP (adenosine triphosphate) is the universal storage form for chemical energy in cells. Cleavage of the distal phosphate group produces ADP and P _I (inorganic phosphate). This reaction is highly exergonic, meaning it releases energy. ATP is produced in the cellular, oxidative degradation of fats, carbohydrates and proteins. It serves as an energy supplier for biochemical syntheses, for transport processes (active transport) and for mechanical work. These processes are endergonic, ie they only take place when energy is supplied. In order to optimally maintain their metabolism, cells are therefore sufficient Supply with ATP instructed. For example, dermal papilla cells also require the production of growth factors and thus the control of the hair cycle ATP. The proliferation and differentiation of ORS keratinocytes is also coupled to the ATP synthesis, as the biosynthesis of specific proteins is an essential prerequisite for both processes. If the ATP synthesis rate of the hair-relevant cells can be increased by a product, the cells have more energy available to maintain metabolic processes and cellular structures, and to renew structures, eg during repair processes or the rebuilding of hair.

The ATP determinations are carried out according to the invention preferably by means of a Luciferase-based luminescence tests, in particular with the help of ATPLite ™ assays (Packard). The test principle of this assay is based that the luciferase of Photinus pyralis catalyzes a reaction, when converted to oxyluciferin in the presence of ATP D-luciferin becomes. In this reaction, green light is emitted, which with a luminometer can be measured. The emitted bioluminescent light is proportional to the amount of available ATP.

• a) den Haarfollikelstatus durch ein erfindungsgemäßes Verfahren zur extrakorporalen Analyse von Haarfollikelzellen oder durch ein erfindungsgemäßes Verfahren zur extrakorporalen Bestimmung der ATP-Syntheserate in Haarfollikelzellen bestimmt,
• b) einen Wirkstoff zur Aufrechterhaltung oder Förderung der Homeostase des Haarfollikels bzw. zur Behandlung pathologischer Zustände des Haarfollikels einmal oder mehrmals auf die behaarte Haut aufbringt,
• c) erneut den Haarfollikelstatus durch ein erfindungsgemäßes Verfahren zur extrakorporalen Analyse von Haarfollikelzellen oder durch ein erfindungsgemäßes Verfahren zur extrakorporalen Bestimmung der ATP-Syntheserate in Haarfollikelzellen bestimmt, und
• d) die Wirksamkeit des Wirkstoffs durch den Vergleich der Ergebnisse aus a) und c) bestimmt.

Another object of the present invention is a test method for demonstrating the efficacy of cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents for maintaining or promoting the homeostasis of the hair follicle or for treating pathological conditions of the hair follicle, such as alopecia in vitro, characterized in that

• a) the hair follicle status is determined by a method according to the invention for extracorporeal analysis of hair follicle cells or by a method according to the invention for the extracorporeal determination of the ATP synthesis rate in hair follicle cells,
• b) applying an active substance once or several times to the hairy skin in order to maintain or promote homeostasis of the hair follicle or to treat pathological conditions of the hair follicle,
• c) again determines the hair follicle status by a method according to the invention for extracorporeal analysis of hair follicle cells or by a method according to the invention for extracorporeal determination of the ATP synthesis rate in hair follicle cells, and
• d) the effectiveness of the active substance is determined by comparing the results of a) and c).

Under "Promotion the homeostasis of the hair follicle " exemplary and not exhaustive including promotion the hair growth, the hair thickness, the metabolism and the influence understood the Keratinsynthese.

"Alopecia" refers to the invention in particular androgenetic alopecia, alopecia areata, telogen effluvium, Anagen effluvium, induced effluvium (e.g., by drugs) as well as the Loose Anagen Hair syndrome.

One Another object of the present invention is a test kit to prove the efficacy of cosmetic or pharmaceutical Active ingredients for maintaining or promoting the homeostasis of Hair follicle or for the treatment of pathological conditions of the Hair follicle in vitro, comprising means for carrying out the inventive method for extracorporeal analysis of hair follicle cells or the method according to the invention for extracorporeal determination of ATP synthesis rate in hair follicle cells.

• a) den Haarfollikelstatus durch ein erfindungsgemäßes Verfahren zur extrakorporalen Analyse von Haarfollikelzellen oder durch ein erfindungsgemäßes Verfahren zur extrakorporalen Bestimmung der ATP-Syntheserate in Haarfollikelzellen bestimmt,
• b) einen potentiellen Wirkstoff zur Aufrechterhaltung oder Förderung der Homeostase des Haarfollikels bzw. zur Behandlung pathologischer Zustände des Haarfollikels einmal oder mehrmals auf die behaarte Haut aufbringt,
• c) erneut den Haarfollikelstatus durch ein erfindungsgemäßes Verfahren zur extrakorporalen Analyse von Haarfollikelzellen oder durch ein erfindungsgemäßes Verfahren zur extrakorporalen Bestimmung der ATP-Syntheserate in Haarfollikelzellen bestimmt, und
• d) wirksame Wirkstoffe durch den Vergleich der Ergebnisse aus a) und c) identifiziert.

Another object of the present invention is a screening method for the identification of cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents for maintaining or promoting homeostasis of the hair follicle or for the treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle, such as alopecia, characterized in that

• a) the hair follicle status is determined by a method according to the invention for extracorporeal analysis of hair follicle cells or by a method according to the invention for the extracorporeal determination of the ATP synthesis rate in hair follicle cells,
• b) applying a potential active substance to the maintenance or promotion of the homeostasis of the hair follicle or to the treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle once or several times on the hairy skin,
• c) again determines the hair follicle status by a method according to the invention for extracorporeal analysis of hair follicle cells or by a method according to the invention for extracorporeal determination of the ATP synthesis rate in hair follicle cells, and
• d) active substances identified by comparing the results of a) and c).

• a) wirksame Wirkstoffe mit Hilfe des erfindungsgemäßen Screening-Verfahrens bestimmt und
• b) als wirksam befundene Wirkstoffe mit kosmetisch und pharmakologisch geeigneten und verträglichen Trägem vermischt.

Another object of the present invention is a process for the preparation of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation for maintaining or promoting the homeostasis of the hair follicle or for the treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle, such as alopecia, characterized in that

• a) effective agents determined using the screening method of the invention and
• b) active ingredients found to be mixed with cosmetically and pharmacologically suitable and compatible carriers.

The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it to:
All figures are in weight percent (w%).

information to the substances used in the examples:

Gluadin WQ

• Cognis Germany GmbH,
• AQUA (WATER), LAURDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN, ETHYLPARABLES, METHYLPARABES
• Protein hydrolyzates, wheat germ, (3- (dodecyldimethylammonio) -2-hydroxypropyl), chlorides
• about 30-35% salary

Gluadin WLM

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• Wheat protein hydrolyzate in H2O
• INCI declaration [INCI] HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN
• Salary about 20-24%

Salcare SC 96

• Ciba
• INCI declaration [INCI] POLYQUATERNIUM-37, PROPYLENE GLYCOL Dicaprylate / dicaprate,
• Salary about 50%

Cetiol HE

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• Coconut monoglyceride ethoxylated (7 EO)
• INCI declaration [INCI] PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE

Sepigel 305

• Seppic (Interorgana)
• INCI declaration [INCI] POC13-14 ILYACRYLAMIDE, SOPARAFFIN, LAURETH-7
• Salary about 45-50%

Euperlan PK 3000

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• INCI declaration [INCI] GLYCOL DISTEARATE, GLYCERINE, LAURETH-4, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE

Plantacare 818 UP

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• C8-16 alkylpolyglucoside
• * NLP
• COCO-GLUCOSIDE, AQUA (WATER)

Ajidew NL 50

• Ajinomoto
• pyrrolidone Sodium salt
• Na-PCA
• SODIUM PCA

Uvinul MS 40

• BASF
• Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid * 2-BENZOPHENONE-4

Arlypon F

• Cognis Germany GmbH
• Lauromacrogol JP 12 (Pharmacopoeia of Japan)
• * NLP
• C12-14 fatty alcohols ethoxylated (2.5 EO)
• LAURETH-2

Antil 171

• Goldschmidt (Degussa)
• Polyol fatty acid ester
• PEG-18 GLYCERYL OLEATE / COCOATE

Synthetic K

• Synthal KD (old)
• 3V Sigma
• polyacrylic acid
• CARBOMER

Cremophor RH 40

• BASF
• Perfume C 041
• Castor oil, hardened, ethoxylated (45 EO)
• PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL

Neutrol TE

• BASF
• Tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine * N, N, N ', N', - edetol
• TETRAHYDROXYPROPYL ETHYLENEDIAMINE

Example 1:

hair conditioner L-carnitine 2.0 Eumulgin ^® B2 0.3 Cetyl / stearyl 3.3 isopropyl 0.5 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3

Dehyquart® ^® A-CA 2.0 Gluadin® WQ 0.2 Gluadin® WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 subtilisin or papain 0.5 Phenonip ^® 0.8 water ad 100 PH = 7.0

Example 2:

hair conditioner Acetyl-L-carnitine 1.0 Eumulgin ^® B2 0.3 Cetyl / stearyl 3.3 isopropyl 0.5 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3 Dehyquart ^® L 80 2.0 Gluadin WQ 0.5 Gluadin WLM 0.2 pantolactone 1.0 Subtilisin or papain 1.0 citric acid 0.4 Phenonip ^® 0.8 water ad 100 PH - 7.0

Example 3:

hair conditioner L-carnitine tartrate 2.0 isopropyl 0.50 Paraffin Liquidum 0.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.5 Eumulgin B 2 0.40 citric acid 0.20 Propylparaben 0.20 Water, demineralized ad 100 Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.30 methylparaben 0.20 Dehyquart F 75 2.0

Example 4:

Hair Conditioner (rinse off) L-carnitine fumarate 4.0 Dehyquart® ^® F75 4.0 Cetyl / stearyl 4.0 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 1.5 Dehyquart® ^® A-CA 4.0 Salcare ^® SC 96 0.5 Gluadin WQ 1.0 Gluadin WLM 1.0

pantolactone 0.5 subtilisin or papain 0.2 citric acid 0.15 Phenonip ^® 0.8 water ad 100 PH = 7.0

Example 5:

Hair Conditioner (rinse off) L-carnitine citrate, 2.0 Dehyquart® ^® L80 4.0 Cetyl / stearyl 6.0 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 2.0 Rewoquat ^® W 75 2.0 Sepigel ^® 305 0.5 Gluadin WQ 0.2 Gluadin WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.5 citric acid 0.15 Phenonip ^® 0.8 water ad 100 PH = 7.0

Example 6:

Hair cure (remaining on the hair) Lauroyl-L-carnitine 3.0 Dehyquart® ^® F75 0.3 Salcare ^® SC 96 5.0 Dow ^Corning® 200 Fluid, 5 cSt. 1.5 Gafquat ^® 755N 1.5 Biodocarb ^® 0.8 Gluadin WQ 0.2 Gluadin WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.5 perfume oil 0.25 water ad 100 PH = 7.0

Example 7:

Hair cure (remaining on the hair) L-carnitine tartrate 3.0 Sepigel ^® 305 5.0 Dow Corning ^® Q2-5220 5 cSt. 1.5 Genamin ^® DSAC 0.3 Phenonip ^® 0.8 Gluadin WQ 0.5 Gluadin WLM 0.8

pantolactone 1.0 subtilisin or papain 0.8 perfume oil 0.25 water ad 100 PH = 7.0

Example 8:

conditioner L-carnitine tartrate 2.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.00 Propylparaben 0.20 stearamidopropyldimethylamines 1.50 Dehyquart F 75 1.50 Paraffin Liquidum 1.00 Quaternium-87 in propylene glycol 1.50 isopropyl 2.00 Cutina GMS * 1.00 methylparaben 0.20 water ad 100 citric acid 0.45 Dehyquart A CA 5.00 Rheocare CTH (E) 0.50 Polymer JR 400 0.20 pantolactone 0.20 nicotinamide 0.10 Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.40 D-panthenol 75% 0.20

Dow Corning 1403 fluid 1.50 Perfume 0.20

Example 9:

Shampoo: L-carnitine tartrate 1.5 LAURETHSULFATE 25% 40 CITRIC ACID 0.1 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.5 DISODIUM COCOAMPHODIACETATE 6.0 SALICYLIC 0.1 HYDROTRITICUM WQ 1.0 Gluadin WQ 0.2 Gluadin WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 Subtilisin or papain 0.2 CETIOL HE 0.5 PERFUME 0.4 NACL 0.5 WATER AD 100

Example 10:

Shampoo: L-carnitine citrate 2.0 LAURETHSULFATE 25% (ALKALINE THINNING) 25.0 CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.3 TIMIRON 0.5

SODIUM BENZOATE 0.5 Panthenol 75 l 0.2 EUPERLAN PK 3000 8.0 Plantacare 818 UP 2.0 Uvinul MS40 1.0 salicylic acid 0.2 Ajidew NL-50 2.0 CUTINA HR GROUNDED 0.5 CETIOL HE 1.0 CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.03 JAGUAR EXCEL 0.3 Gluadin® WQ 0.2 Gluadin® WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 subtilisin or papain 0.5 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.3 WATER ad 100

Example 11:

Shampoo: L-carnitine 2.0 LAURETHSULFATE 25% (ALKALINE THINNING) 50 CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.4 ARLYPON F 0.5 ANTIL171 0.3 WHEAT PROTEIN HYDROLYZATE CATIONIZED 1.5 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.5 EUPERLAN PK 3000 6.0 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 45% 5.0 salicylic acid 0.2 SILSOFT A-858 0.3

Gluadin® WQ 1.0 Gluadin® WLM 1.0 pantolactone 0.5 subtilisin or papain 0.2 CUTINA MR 0.2 CETIOL HE 1.0 WATER ad 100

Example 12:

Shampoo: L-carnitine tartrate 2.0 Preferences. Laurethsulf.25% alk.Ver. 40,00 citric acid 0.15 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 7.00 Na benzoate 0.50 salicylic acid 0.20 Perfume 0.15 sodium chloride 1.50 Water, demineralized ad 100 Polymer JR 400 0.30

Example 13:

hair styling gel: Acetyl-L-carnitine 2.5 DISINTERED WATER ad 100 SYNTHALS K 0.6 NEUTROL TE 0.5 GLYCERIN DAB 9, 86.5 8.00 ETHYL ALCOHOL MILLS 96 VOL% FLS 30.00 Gluadin WQ 0.5

Gluadin® WLM 0.5 pantolactone 1.0 subtilisin or papain 0.2 Polyethylene Glycol 2.00 PVP / VA W-635 6.50 CREMOPHOR RH 40 1.00 PERFUME 0.50 PH = 7.0

Example 14:

Hairspray: L-carnitine tartrate 2.0 AMPHOMER 3.00 LUVISKOL VA 37 16.00 AMP AMINO METHYL PROPANOL 100 0.60 isopropyl 0.12 Gluadin WQ 0.5 Gluadin WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.2 Subtilisin or papain 1.0 PERFUME 0.20 DISINTERED WATER ad 100 ETHYL ALCOHOL MILLS 96 VOL% FLS 67,50 PH = 7.0

Example 15:

Hair Tonic: Lauroyl-L-carnitine 2.0 DISINTERED WATER ad 100 PANTHENOL 75 0.1

Gluadin® WQ 0.2 Gluadin® WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 subtilisin or papain 0.5 CARBOPOL 0.1 Neutrol TE 0.10 ETHYL denatured 96 VOL% 30.0 PH = 7.0

Example 16:

Hair Tonic: L-carnitine tartrate 2.0 D-panthenol 75% 0.20 allantoin 0.10 Perfume 0.25 Water, demineralized ad 100 Cremophor A25 0.200000 Ethanol 96% 35,00

Example 17:

Hair rinse as in Ex. 1, as 2-K system

1st chamber: Eumulgin ^® B2 0.3 Cetyl / stearyl 3.3 isopropyl 0.5 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3 Dehyquart® ^® A-CA 2.0 Gluadin WQ 0.2

Gluadin® WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 Phenonip ^® 0.8 water ad 100 PH = 4.0

2nd chamber L-carnitine 2.0 water ad 100

Example 18:

Hair condition analogous Ex. 7, but in two application steps:

Pretreatment with L-carnitine tartrate and enzyme L-tartrate caritin 3.0 Subtilisin or papain 0.5 or papaya extract 1.0 water ad 100

aftercare Sepigel ^® 305 5.0 Dow Corning ^® Q2-5220 5 cSt. 1.5 Genamin ^® DSAC 0.3 Phenonip ^® 0.8 Gluadin WQ 0.5 Gluadin WLM 0.8 pantolactone 1.0 perfume oil 0.25 water ad 100

Example 19:

Examination of hair keratins by multiplex PCR:

The Hair structure is essentially more specific to the composition hair-specific structural proteins, the hair keratins. By influencing the composition of these specific proteins can affect the hair structure at the biological level become. Various murine mutation variants, e.g. the msx2 deficient Mouse, have shown that the abnormal development of hair shafts in these mutants often on a disorder is due to the differentiation (Ma L et al. (2003) Development 130 (2): 379-389). So in Msx2 deficient mice the hair-specific keratin Ha3 compared to the wild type significantly reduced. Monilethrix is a structural defect of the hair shaft, which leads to increased hair breakage and diffuse hair loss. characterized this defect is due, among other things, to a genetic mutation of the basic Hair keratins hHb1 and hHb6.

The Expression of various hair keratins in the plucked hair follicle can be assayed using a multiplex PCR method. To carry out the PCR is first Using the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen the RNA from 25 plucked Hair follicles isolated and transcribed by reverse transcription into cDNA. In the subsequent PCR reaction using gene-specific primers for the respective hair keratins carried out is, the respective PCR products are amplified simultaneously and subsequently with a DNA chip from Agilent capillary electrophoretically separated. The five Hair keratins hHa1, hHa2, hHb2, hHa5 hHb5 could be synthesized simultaneously in to be analyzed in an experiment. As a housekeeping gene and relationship size was 1B15 (cyclophilin A) used. After 28 cycles could help with capillary electrophoresis, the following PCR products identified by their size become:.

To On hHa5, all keratins could be identified directly by their size be identified. HHa5 was identified by an exclusion procedure, where the multiplex PCR once with and once without the addition of the corresponding primer was carried out.

Optional The analysis of the amplificates can also be done using a real time PCR procedure performed become.

Example 20:

• 1) Hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF), Insulin-like Growth Factor (IGF) und Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF), Wachstumsfaktoren, die von der dermalen Papille und den den Follikel umschließenden Fibroblasten (Connective Tissue Sheath Fibroblasten oder CTS-Fibroblasten) ausgeschleust werden, um damit die Keratinozytenproliferation, die letztlich für die Haarschaftelongation verantwortlich ist, zu steuern.
• 2) c-met, HGF-Rezeptor, wird von ORS-Keratinozyten exprimiert.
• 3) gp100, Marker für nicht differenzierte sowie differenzierte Melanozyten, kommt in der Membran von Premelanosomen, im Anfangsstadium des Pigmentierungsprozesses vor.
• 4) Stem Cell Factor (SCF) und ckit, ein SCF Rezeptor, der von ORS-Keratinozyten expremiert wird. Stem Cell Factor stimuliert die Proliferation und Differenzierung von Melanozyten, wird durch Fibroblasten des den Follikel umgebenden Connective Tissue Sheaths und der dermalen Papille ausgeschüttet. SCF Signaling ist verantwortlich für die zyklische Regeneration der pigmentierenden Einheit im Haarfollikel während des Haarzyklus.
• 5) Tyrosinase related protein TRP1 und TRP2, regulierendes, an der Melanogenese beteiligtes Protein
• 6) Versican, wird in der dermalen Papille und Fibroblasten des Connective Tissue Sheaths gebildet, wichtig für das haarindiktive Potential der Zellen
• 7) weitere haarelevante Marker, wie NCAM (Neuronal Cell Adhesion Molecule), IGFBP3 (insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3), TGFβ1 und TGFβ2 (Transforming Growth Factor Beta 1 und 2)

Pigmentation and hair cycle are controlled by a defined complex set of molecular signals specific for the pigmentation and each phase of the hair cycle (Botchkarev VA et al (2003) J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 8: 46-55). If the pigmentation or a specific phase of the hair cycle is to be modulated by the application of a test formulation, it is essential to have a targeted effect on the corresponding molecular control molecules. It is also important to demonstrate the planned effect in vivo on the hair follicle. For this purpose, the expression of certain relevant for the hair cycle and pigmentation markers at the gene level is determined by PCR. Serve as example markers:

• 1) Hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF), Insulin-like Growth Factor (IGF) and Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF), growth factors secreted by dermal papilla and connective tissue sheath fibroblasts (CTS fibroblasts) in order to control the keratinocyte proliferation, which is ultimately responsible for the Haarschaftelongation.
• 2) c-met, HGF receptor, is expressed by ORS keratinocytes.
• 3) gp100, marker for undifferentiated and differentiated melanocytes, occurs in the membrane of premelanosomes, in the early stages of the pigmentation process.
• 4) Stem Cell Factor (SCF) and ckit, an SCF receptor expressed by ORS keratinocytes. Stem Cell Factor stimulates the proliferation and differentiation of melanocytes, is released by fibroblasts of the connective tissue sheath surrounding the follicle and the dermal papilla. SCF Signaling is responsible for the cyclic regeneration of the pigmenting unit in the hair follicle during the hair cycle.
• 5) Tyrosinase related protein TRP1 and TRP2, regulatory protein involved in melanogenesis
• 6) Versican is formed in the Connective Tissue Sheath's dermal papilla and fibroblasts, which are important for the hair-indicative potential of the cells
• 7) other hair-relevant markers such as Neuronal Cell Adhesion Molecule (NCAM), Insulin-like Growth Factor Binding Protein 3 (IGFBP3), TGFβ1 and TGFβ2 (Transforming Growth Factor Beta 1 and 2)

to execution the PCR was first using the RNeasy Mini Kit from the company Qiagen the RNA plucked from 10 Hair follicles isolated and by reverse transcription into cDNA rewritten. In the subsequent PCR reaction using gene-specific primers for each Macker performed was PCR amplified individually and subsequently with a DNA chip from. Agilent capillary electrophoretically separated.

The PCR products of all of the markers HGF, KGF, cmet, Nkibeteb, SCF and ckit listed here were able to be unambiguously identified on the basis of their size and are therefore available for analysis. The housekeeping gene and relationship size used was 1B15 (cyclophilin A):

Optional The analysis of the amplificates can also be done using a real time PCR procedure performed become.

Example 21:

Analysis of relevant Markers that affect the anchoring of the hair in the scalp using Real Time PCR

During the Growth phase, the hair is firmly anchored in the scalp. Responsible therefor are extracellular proteins Matrix such as laminin-5 and laminin-1 as well as collagen IV and VII, and α6β4 integrin. These molecules can in the plucked hair follicle by immunohistochemical method (Marking with primary and secondary antibodies) and with the help of a real-time PCR procedure are examined. To carry out the PCR is first with Help of the RNeasy Mini Kit of the company Qiagen the RNA from the hair follicle models isolated and transcribed by means of reverse transcription into cDNA. In the subsequent PCR Reaction using gene-specific primers for the respective extracellular proteins carried out and that serves to amplify the gene segments sought, will the formation of the PCR products online about Fluorescence signal detected. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular Gene is, the bigger it is the amount of PCR product formed and the higher the fluorescence signal.

Example 22:

Detection of cell cycle relevant Gene by Western blot:

Proliferation and apoptosis are important features in evaluating the efficacy of Formulie tions on the hair follicle. Proliferation, for example, of matrix keratinocytes is a prerequisite for hair growth, while apoptosis is coupled to the entry into the catagen phase, with subsequent hair loss (Botchkarev VA, Kishimoto J. (2003), J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 8: 46-55). The effect of a substance on hair growth can thus be detected early on the cellular level. Important proteins associated with apoptosis (programmed cell death) are, for example, Bcl-2 and Bax. Bcl-2 is anti-apoptotic, ie as apoptosis protection and is predominantly localized on the outer mitochondrial membrane, but also on the cell nucleus membrane and the endoplasmic reticulum. Bax, too, is involved in the regulation of apoptotic mechanisms, but it is apoptosis-promoting, ie pro-apoptotic. It is positively regulated by the products of pro-apoptotic genes (such as Bad, Bak and the tumor suppressor gene p53) and negatively regulated by the products of anti-apoptotic genes of the Bcl family (such as Bcl-2 or Bcl-xl). The proportion of pro- to anti-apoptotic family members determines the death or survival of the cell. If a test substance potentially promotes or sustains growth, it can be assumed that this effect has effects on cell cycle-relevant markers. These markers can be detected by means of protein analytical methods, eg Western blot or protein array. To optimize the Western blot, the protein yield from the follicles was first maximized. In each case 10 follicles were removed from the subject, taken up in a lysis buffer mixed with protease inhibitors and homogenized using a Mixermill. The proteins contained in the lysate are quantified with a Micro BCA Protein Assay Kit from Pierce and an aliquot applied to a mini gel (4-12% Bis-Tris gradient gel) to perform a polyacrylamide electrophoresis. Subsequently, the separated proteins are transferred to a nitrocellulose membrane (transfer buffer with 10% methanol). The membrane is fixed and carried out to check the protein distribution, a Ponceau-S staining. For the detection and quantification of specific proteins such as Bax and Bcl-2, the membrane is first incubated for 1 h with specific primary antibodies (polyclonal rabbit anti-Bax, Fa. Cell Signaling, polyclonal rabbit anti-human Bcl-2, Fa. Cell Signaling), then the labeling is carried out with a horseradish peroxidase-coupled secondary antibody (Goat anti-rabbit IgG, Fa. Chemicon). The detection is carried out by the ECL method (Enhanced Chemoluminescence) by the addition of a special substrate, is released in the reaction with horseradish peroxidase luminol. The luminescence released is detected by means of a luminescence-sensitive film. The blackening of the film at the marked position is proportional to the content of Bcl-2 and Bax contained in the sample. Both markers could be detected by Western blotting, with Bax, as expected, showing only weak expression since anagen hair follicles were used.

Optional can be the quantitative analysis of the markers (extra and intracellular after cell lysis) also with the aid of an ELISA (enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay) method respectively

Example 22:

Hair follicle analysis in vivo after treatment with hair tonic:

It were 11 male Subjects in a half-page comparison, in which the drug formulation (with 2% L-carnitine tartrate) against a placebo formulation (without L-carnitine tartrate) was applied, measured. This was initially on both sides of the head each 5 hair taken to determine the ATP synthesis rate as zero value. Thereafter, the application of each 2 ml formulation was carried out one half of the head each. 15h after the application 5 hairs were on each side taken to determine the ATP content.

to Determination of the ATP content in hair follicles was the hair one ATP-stabilizing mixture of lysis buffer and PBS added and homogenized in a Mixermill. After centrifugation was a 150 μl aliquot taken and with 50 ul substrate solution transferred to a black microtiter plate. After an incubation period 10 min in the dark, the luminescence was measured. To form the starting point differences, the zero value became each Subjects are subtracted from the corresponding 15h value and the mean calculated. The half-page comparison 15h after application shows one statistically significant advantage (99% statistical security, p-value = 0.0053) formulation with L-carnitine tartrate versus placebo formulation.

Example formulation of Hair Tonic:

Recipe Verum:

• 30% ethanol (cosmetic)
• 2% liposomes PC (Lipoid SL80, Supplier Lipoid)
• 2% L-carnitine L-tartrate (Supplier: Loncha)
• 66% water

Formulation Placebo:

• 30% ethanol (cosmetic)
• 2% liposomes PC (Lipoid SL80, Supplier Lipoid)
• 68% water

Example 23:

Hair follicle analysis after Treatment with hair shampoo

It were 10 male Subjects in a half-side comparison (verum with 2% carnitine tartrate / untreated), measured. This was initially 5 hairs from both sides of the head to determine the ATP synthesis rate taken as zero value. Then the hair was washed with 3 ml each of formulation. 15h after the application were on both 5 hairs each to determine the ATP content.

to Determination of the ATP content in hair follicles was the hair one ATP-stabilizing mixture of lysis buffer and PBS added and homogenized in a Mixermill. After centrifugation was a 150 μl aliquot taken and with 50 ul substrate solution transferred to a black microtiter plate. After an incubation period 10 min in the dark, the luminescence was measured. To form the starting point differences, the zero value became each Subjects subtracted from the corresponding 15h value and the mean calculated. 15h after application could for the test formulation with 2% L-carnitine tartrate shows a statistically significant increase (Student t-test) ATP concentration in the treated hair follicles become.

By another statistical procedure (comparison of covariances) was about it There was also a statistically significant difference in the ATP concentration between the side treated with the test formulation versus the untreated side detected during the subsequent measurement (p = 0.01).

Example formulation hair shampoo: L-carnitine citrate 2.0

laureth 25% (ALKALINE DILUTION) 25.0 CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.3 TIMIRON 0.5 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.5 Panthenol 75 l 0.2 EUPERLAN PK 3000 8.0 Plantacare 818 UP 2.0 Uvinul MS40 1.0 salicylic acid 0.2 Ajidew NL-50 2.0 CUTINA HR GROUNDED 0.5 CETIOL HE 1.0 CITRIC ACID MONO REGULAR 0.03 JAGUAR EXCEL 0.3 Gluadin® WQ 0.2 Gluadin® WLM 0.5 pantolactone 0.5 subtilisin or papain 0.5 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.3 WATER ad 100

Claims (12)

Hair treatment compositions containing at least a connection that is selected is under L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the L-carnitine derivatives selected are among acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate. Use of L-carnitine and / or at least one L-carnitine derivative selected is among acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate for vitalizing hair, Stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of Hair follicles, promotion or reinforcement hair growth, hair thickening, hair loss and treatment for influencing the keratin synthesis, or for hair conditioning. Procedure for revitalizing hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, advancement or reinforcement hair growth, hair thickening, hair loss and treatment for influencing keratin synthesis or hair conditioning, characterized in that An agent according to claim 1 or 2 on the hair or the hairy Applying skin. Method for extracorporeal analysis of hair follicle cells, characterized in that a) at least one hair to preserve the hair follicle hairy Skin wins and b) the at least one hair follicle on the Expression of hair-specific factors studied. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that the examination in step b is carried out by means of a method selected from i. One- or two-dimensional gel electrophoresis ii. Affinity chromatography iii. Protein-protein complexation in solution iv. ELISA (Enzyme-linked Immunosorbent Assay) v. Enzyme coupled metabolic assays vi. Mass spectrometry, in particular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization (MALDI) and in particular vii. Use of Protein Chips, Northern Blots, viii. Reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR), ix. RNase protection experiments, x. Dot blots, xi. CDNA sequencing, xii. Clone hybridization, xiii. Differential display, xiv. Subtractive hybridization, xv. cDNA fragment fingerprinting, xvi. Flow Cytometry Analyzes, xvii. Serial analysis of gene expression (SAGE) and in particular xviii. Use of nucleic acid chips, or by means of suitable combinations of these methods. Method for extracorporeal determination of ATP synthesis rate in hair follicle cells, characterized in that a) at least one hair to preserve the hair follicle hairy Skin wins and b) the ATP synthesis rate in the at least a hair follicle is determined. Method according to claim 7, characterized in that that he the determination of the ATP synthesis rate in step b by means of a luciferase-based Lumineszenztests performs. Test method to prove the efficacy of cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents for maintenance or promotion the homeostasis of the hair follicle or for the treatment of pathological conditions of the Hair follicles, such as alopecia in vitro, characterized in that a) the hair follicle status by a method according to any one of claims 5 to 8 determines b) an active substance for maintenance or promotion the homeostasis of the hair follicle or for the treatment of pathological conditions the hair follicle once or several times on the hairy skin, c) again the hair follicle status by a procedure according to one of claims 5 to 8 determined, and d) the effectiveness of the active substance the comparison of the results of a) and c) determined. Test kit to prove the efficacy of cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents for maintenance or promotion the homeostasis of the hair follicle or for the treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle in vitro, comprising means for carrying out the Method according to claim 9. Screening method for the identification of cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents for maintenance or promotion the homeostasis of the hair follicle or for the treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle, such as alopecia, characterized in that one a) the hair follicle status by a method according to any one of claims 5 to 8 determines b) a potential agent for maintenance or promotion the homeostasis of the hair follicle or for the treatment of pathological conditions the hair follicle once or several times on the hairy skin, c) again the hair follicle status by a procedure according to one of claims 5 to 8 determined, and d) active substances by comparison the results of a) and c) identified. Process for the preparation of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation maintenance or promotion the homeostasis of the hair follicle or for the treatment of pathological conditions of the hair follicle, such as alopecia, characterized in that one a) effective agents determined by the method of claim 11 and b) active ingredients with cosmetic and mixed pharmacologically suitable and compatible carriers.