DE10344668A1 - Preparation for treating keratin fibers, e.g. for improving handle and combability of hair, containing siloxane elastomer obtained e.g. from vinyl-terminated polymethyl siloxane and methyl hydroxy dimethyl siloxane - Google Patents

Abstract

New preparations (A) for treating keratin fibers contain siloxane elastomers (I) obtained by reacting (a) vinyl-terminated polymethyl siloxane with methyl hydroxy dimethyl siloxane and/or (b) hydroxy-terminated dimethyl polysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylpolysiloxane.

Description

The The present invention relates to a preparation for the treatment of keratinic fibers.

keratin Fibers are for example hair of mammals or humans, no matter whether on the body of the same attached or no longer on the body the same. From the latter fibers can also products are made, such as yarns, which are processed into fabrics can be.

in the Trap of on the body pendant Hair care plays a role in hair care. This is done on the one hand through the hair washing, on the other hand, through the use of care products that can be combed, improve the shine or the volume of the hair. Especially frequent such care in humans or predominantly in the living area kept pets like pedigree dogs or cats. But also at the processing and care of products from no longer on the body of one Animal or human attached Haaren such care products are used, such as wool yarns, wool sweaters or real or imitation hair wigs.

The Hair, for example, human hair is, if not pathological changes present, practically not in his newly regrown state to improve. The nearby the scalp located part of a hair has accordingly an almost closed cuticle layer. In particular, the cuticle layer as outer shell of the Hair, but also the inner area below the cuticle are exposed to special stress due to environmental influences.

basics influences for the loss of quality a hair while his aging are the influence of the Sunlight, mechanical stress due to intensive combing or To brush, but also hair treatments, such as hair dyeing and bleaching in particular as well as hair deformations, for example perming procedures. Especially lead to oxidative stress therefore often to injury of the hair.

Either UV-A as well as UV-B radiation have a damaging effect on the Hair, for example, that expresses certain amino acids like Cystine and methionine are degraded or sulfur-sulfur bonds of the Keratins are split, which in the worst case is a destruction of the Haars can result. Continue to put hair and scalp Parts of the body because of their position when staying outdoors exposed to significant amount of UV radiation.

One The goal of hair care is to protect the scalp and hair from oxidative influences protect and the natural state of the newly regrown hair over one preferably long period of time and restore in case of loss. Silky shine, low porosity and a pleasant, smooth feeling are considered as characteristics for natural, healthy hair.

since At the end of the last century, products for hair care purposefully developed. This resulted to a variety of preparations as well as the general hair care as well as to remedy anomalies of the Hair and scalp. In general, today hair care cosmetics used, which are either intended after exposure rinsed out of the hair again to become, or which should remain on the hair. Latter can be formulated so that they not just to care for the individual hair, but also that Improve overall appearance of a hairstyle, for example by that she the hair more fullness lend, the hairstyle over a longer one Fix the period or improve the readability.

ever according to purpose one finds completely different active substances or combinations of agents in such hair care products. Some that are more for the protection of hair, such as antioxidants or UV filters, others that soften the hair, such as cationic surfactants. Polymers are becoming increasingly important Active ingredients, which are very different depending on the type, molecular weight and charge Have properties.

Despite a wide variety of cationic surfactants and polymers available to those skilled in the art, some disadvantages associated with the use of these materials, singly or in combination, have not yet been completely eliminated. For example, polymers that tend to give the hair a certain firmness and therefore volume often have poor feel and poor combability; Polymers that soften the hair often cause weight loss, resulting in a lack of volume connected is. The latter also applies to the cationic surfactants, the phenomenon of weighting occurring especially in fine hair.

A Object of the present invention was the disadvantages of the prior art to eliminate the technology. In particular, preparations should be used for disposal be used in their use the flexibility-improving Nursing properties are synergistically improved without the hair to complain. The hair should thereby feel a pleasant grip get and get well done.

It has for the expert unpredictably pointed out that preparations for the treatment of keratinic fibers containing siloxane elastomers available by a reaction of vinyl-terminated polymethylsiloxane and Methylhydroxydimethylsiloxan and / or by reaction of hydroxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated Methylpolysiloxane mitigate the disadvantage of the prior art.

such Siloxane elastomers are partially or completely crosslinked and mostly have a three-dimensional structure. They are available through a reaction of vinyl terminated Polymethylsiloxane and methylhydroxydimethylsiloxane or by Reaction of hydroxy-terminated Dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylpolysiloxane.

• • Polysilicone-11 z.B. Gransil GCM; Gransil DMG-6 der Fa. Grant Chemical
• • Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer z.B. DC 9506 deer Fa. Dow Corning
• • Crosslinked Stearyl-Methyl-Dimethyl Siloxane z.B. Gransil SR CYC der Fa. Grant Chemical.

Examples of such siloxane elastomers are:

• Polysilicone-11 eg Gransil GCM; Gransil DMG-6 from Grant Chemical
• Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer eg DC 9506 from Dow Corning
• Crosslinked stearyl-methyl-dimethyl siloxanes, eg Gransil SR CYC from Grant Chemical.

Of the Although use of such elastomers in cosmetic products is indeed However, application areas, effects and formulations other than the inventive treatment agent are.

DE 10155792 describes cosmetic foams containing elastomers for stabilizing the foam structure. No mention is made of hair treatments and effects on the condition of the hair.

EP 889716 describes exclusively shampoos, nothing is mentioned about a synergistic effect of elastomers in combination with cationic surfactants and / or polymers in non-cleaning care products.

US 6200581 describes the use of elastomeric silicone terpolymers, on whose effect in combination with cationic surfactants and / or polymers on the hair nothing is mentioned.

EP 0855178 describes the combination of silicone elastomers with AHA's in hair care products exclusively for rinse-off applications. Nothing is mentioned about the combination of elastomers with cationic surfactants and / or polymers in AHA-free hair care formulations.

• • Verbesserung der Frisierbarkeit des Haares (Geschmeidigkeit, Kämmbarkeit, Volumen)
• • Verbesserung der taktilen Eigenschaften des Haares (Griffempfinden)
• • Vermeidung von Beschwerung des Haares.

The preparations according to the invention have the following advantages:

• • Improvement of the hairability of the hair (smoothness, combability, volume)
• • Improvement of the tactile properties of the hair (feeling of touch)
• • Avoiding weighting of the hair.

Farther has been found to be preferred when the siloxane elastomers chosen are from the group Polysilicone-11, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Crosslinked Stearyl-Methyl-Dimethyl Siloxanes. Especially it is preferred if dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone as Siloxanelasteomer Crosspolymer is used. It is preferred if the content of siloxane elastomer is 0.05 to 5.0%.

Moreover, it is preferred that inventive preparations additionally cationic Ten side and / or cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers. In this case, it is particularly preferred if the content of cationic surfactants is 0.05 to 5.0% and / or the content of cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers is 0.01 to 2.0%. It is particularly preferred if the mass ratio of siloxane elastomers to cationic surfactants and / or anionic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers is from 1: 50 to 50: 1.

Prefers are preparations according to the invention as a cosmetic and / or dermatological hair care preparation for Improvement of grip and comb characteristics and / or the volume of hair of mammals or for improvement the handling and processing properties of keratinic fibers and / or tissues.

Preparations according to the invention can exist in different forms. So they can e.g. a solution, a anhydrous preparation, emulsion or microemulsion of the type Water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water type (O / W), a multi ple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) type, a gel or an aerosol represent.

The Hair care preparations and preparations, the active compounds according to the invention contained, are topical preparations. These can be composed as usual and for the treatment and care of the scalp and / or the hair or as a sunscreen preparation serve. The formulations according to the invention are used for cosmetics and hair care products usual Applied to the scalp and hair in sufficient quantity.

Advantageous can Preparations in the context of the present invention as a hair conditioner or Hair conditioner present.

The Means according to the invention can for example, as from aerosol containers, squeeze bottles or through a pumping, spraying or foam device sprayable preparations present, but also in the form of a order from normal bottles and containers Agent.

When Propellant for from aerosol containers sprayable Cosmetic or dermatological preparations within the meaning of the present invention Invention, are the usual known volatile, liquefied Propellants, for example dimethyl ether, hydrocarbons (propane, Butane, isobutane), alone or in admixture with each other can be used. Also compressed air, nitrogen, nitrogen dioxide or carbon dioxide or Mixtures of these substances are advantageous to use.

Of course, the expert knows that it in itself non-toxic propellant gases, which in principle for the realization of the present Invention in the form of aerosol preparations would be suitable but nevertheless because of questionable effect on the environment or other accompanying circumstances should be waived, especially fluorocarbons and Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

Advantageous contain preparations according to the invention In addition to an effective content of active compounds according to the invention also customary active, Ingredients, additives and / or adjuvants.

When Hair products are referred to a variety of products whose most important agents are pretreatment agents, hair lotions and hair conditioners.

raw materials for hair products are e.g. Fatty alcohols, waxes, paraffins, petrolatum, paraffin oil and solvents.

fatty alcohols are e.g. straight or branched chain aliphatic monohydric alcohols with 6 - 22 C atoms in the molecule. In cosmetics, preferably straight-chain fatty alcohols with a chain length from 12 to 18 C atoms used. These fatty alcohols are soft, colorless masses, practically non-toxic and well tolerated by the skin. Fatty alcohols are preferably used for the production of hair treatments and hairdressing creams, wherein the cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol is of particular importance due.

waxes are fatty acid esters, which occur in animal and vegetable products, but also can be prepared synthetically. The most famous of course occurring wax is the beeswax, which as main ingredients Contains cerin and myricin. Wax, however, is a generic term for a series of course or artificially recovered substances, which are usually semi-solid, white, odorless and insoluble in water Represent masses.

paraffins in the cosmetic sense are white, odorless masses of straight-chain high molecular weight hydrocarbons. Because of their properties comparable to waxes they become also often as petroleum waxes designated.

vaseline is a mixture of low-branched branched-chain paraffins on cyclic paraffins. It is a soft, transparent and in Water insoluble Mass with low inherent odor, which accumulates during the treatment of the petroleum.

Paraffin oil is one Mixture of saturated liquid Hydrocarbons. It is insoluble in water but miscible with fatty alcohols and waxes. It will used as an additive in hair care products for consistency control.

solvent play a significant role in cosmetics. From the large number Solvents the available ethanol has the greatest importance. It is used to make hair lotions containing it because of its disinfecting properties at the same time the function fulfilled an active ingredient.

• – Emulgatoren, um die Grenzflächenspannung zwischen zwei an sich nicht mischbaren Phasen so weit herabzusetzen, daß deren feine Vermischung möglich wird,
• – Verdickungsmittel, um die Stabilität von Emulsionen zu erhöhen und deren Viskosität einzustellen,
• – UV-Absorber, um die Lichtstabilität der in Haarpflegemitteln enthaltenen Farbstoffe und anderer lichtempfindlicher Komponenten zu verbessern. Daneben dienen sie dem Schutz des Haares vor Lichteinflüssen.
• – Konservierungsmittel, um mikrobieller Zersetzung vorzubeugen.
• – Antioxidantien, um Geruchsveränderungen, die durch Oxidationsvorgänge hervorgerufen werden können, zu verhindern.
• – Farbstoffe, um Haarpflegemitteln ein ansprechendes Aussehen zu verleihen.
• – Parfümöle, um Haarpflegemitteln einen angenehmen Duft zu verleihen und Nebengerüche der Rohstoffe zu überdecken.

Excipients can be used to improve certain properties of the hair care products, such as consistency, temperature and light stability, appearance and smell, and to facilitate their production. Be added as needed:

• Emulsifiers in order to reduce the interfacial tension between two immiscible phases to such an extent that their fine mixing becomes possible,
• Thickeners to increase the stability of emulsions and to adjust their viscosity,
• UV absorbers to improve the light stability of the dyes and other photosensitive components contained in hair care products. In addition, they serve to protect the hair from the effects of light.
• - Preservative to prevent microbial decomposition.
• - Antioxidants to prevent odor changes that can be caused by oxidation processes.
• - Dyes to give hair products a pleasing appearance.
• - Perfume oils to give hair care products a pleasant fragrance and to mask offcuts in the raw materials.

The Amount of raw materials is for example 85 to 99.999% by weight, preferably 90 to 99.99% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

Quaternary ammonium compounds are an important group of special agents that are used to manufacture used by hair care products. Haircare products, in particular Hair treatments, get essential properties like improvement of combing as well as grip and prevention of static charge of the hair primarily through the use of quaternary Ammonium compounds.

The Properties of quaternary Ammonium compounds are by the cationic group on the one hand and by the nature of the lipophilic moieties of this group, on the other hand certainly. Suitable are e.g. the connections in which a to two residues longer-chained Alkyl groups, such as lauryl, cetyl or stearyl groups, and the remaining radicals are methyl groups. Become a product of this type preferably used as chlorides, bromides and methosulfates.

Suitable are also polymeric quaternary Ammonium compounds, macromolecules, their essential feature the presence of several quaternary ammonium groups in the molecule. Thereby becomes her liability significantly increased on the hair.

• 1. Alkylamine
• 2. Alkylimidazole
• 3. Ethoxylierte Amine und
• 4. Quaternäre Tenside.
• 5. Esterquats

Particularly useful cationic surfactants are

• 1. Alkylamines
• 2. Alkylimidazoles
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants.
• 5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom covalently bonded to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. This results in a positive charge regardless of the pH. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be chosen from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide,
Alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides,
Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides,
Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds having a cationic character, such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous to use.

monomers or polymeric quaternary Ammonium compounds are widely used in hair conditioners and hair treatments e.g. in Concentrations of 0.5 - 5 % By weight used. This includes Cetrimonium chloride as it is called Dehyquart A of the company Cognis is offered or distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfates as described under the name Dehyquart F 75 by the Company Cognis is offered.

Lie the cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of a Lotion before that rinsed out and e.g. before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing steps, before or after the permanent wave treatment is applied it is e.g. to emulsions, which may be surface-active Contain substances whose concentration is between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5 wt .-%, may be.

A cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion that is not rinsed out, especially a lotion for inserting the hair, a lotion that while blow-drying the hair is used, a hairdressing and treatment lotion, provides generally an emulsion and contains the combinations according to the invention. However, it may be advantageous if the lotion according to the invention in the form of a microemulsion or an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution is present.

According to the invention, cosmetic Preparations for the treatment and care of hair are present as gels, the organic thickening agents, e.g. Acrylate polymers and copolymers, Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic Thickening agents, e.g. Aluminum silicates such as bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15 wt .-%, contained.

The The above percentages are based on the total weight the preparations.

The preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic excipients, such as those commonly used in such preparations can be used, e.g. Preservatives, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, Foam stabilizers, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect have, thickeners, surface-active Substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing Substances, moisturizing Agents, fats, oils, Waxes, alcohols, polyols and their toxicologically tolerated Ethers and esters, branched and / or unbranched hydrocarbons, other antioxidants, stabilizers, pH regulators, bodying agents, Bactericides, deodorants, antimicrobials, antistatic agents, UV absorber, complexing agent and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, polymers, electrolytes, organic solvents, Silicone derivatives, plant extracts, vitamins and / or other active ingredients or other usual ones Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation. Also solver, e.g. for incorporation of hydrophobic components, e.g. of perfume preparations can be included.

The Total amount of excipients is for example 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

The Amount of thickening agent is for example 0.05 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.15 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight the preparation.

Of the Water content of the preparations is for example 60 to 95 Wt .-%, preferably 75 to 95 wt .-%, in particular 80 to 90 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention can as more antioxidants all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or common Antioxidants are used.

The Total amount of the antioxidants is, for example, 0.000,001 to 2 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 1 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

Advantageously, further antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocaninic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg carotene, carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, Cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and theirs Salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta, hexa, H eptathioninsuffoximin) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg -hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), - hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts , Bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg, linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, Uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) Selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

Advantageous can preparations according to the invention Furthermore Contain substances that absorb UV radiation in the UV-B range, the total amount of filter substances being e.g. 0.001% by weight to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic Preparations available to put the hair or the skin in front of the entire area protect the ultraviolet radiation. You can also as a sunscreen for Hair or skin, especially the scalp.

• – Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure selbst;
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze.

If the emulsions according to the invention contain UV-B filter substances, they can advantageously be water-soluble. Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filters are, for example:

• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid itself;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts.

It may also be advantageous, preparations according to the invention with UV-A filters to move, which so far usually contained in cosmetic preparations. It can be the for the UV-B combination used.

The The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention, without restricting it. The Numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight on the total weight of the respective preparations.

Examples 1-3 hair treatments

Examples 4-6 hair conditioners

Examples 7-9 spray conditioner

Examples 10-12 Leave-on Conditioner

Claims (10)

Preparation for the treatment of keratinic fibers containing siloxane elastomers obtainable by a reaction of vinyl-terminated polymethylsiloxane and methylhydroxydimethylsiloxane and / or by Reaction of hydroxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylpolysiloxane. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized that the Siloxane elastomer selected are from the group Polysilicone-11, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Crosslinked Stearyl-Methyl-Dimethyl Siloxanes. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized characterized in that as Siloxane Elastomer Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer used becomes. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized characterized in that Siloxane elastomer content is 0.05 to 5.0%. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized characterized in that they additionally cationic Surfactants and / or cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic Contains polymers. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized characterized in that Content of cationic surfactants 0.05 to 5.0%. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized characterized in that Content of cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic Polymer is 0.01 to 2.0%. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims characterized characterized in that mass ratio of siloxane elastomers to cationic surfactants and / or anionic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers is 1: 50 to 50: 1. Use of preparations according to one of the preceding claims as a cosmetic and / or dermatological hair care preparation for Improvement of grip and comb characteristics and / or the volume of hair of mammals. Use of preparations according to one of the preceding claims to improve the handling and processing properties of keratinic Fibers and / or tissues.