FR3021539A1 - COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING A VEGETABLE EXTRACT AND A GENE ACTIVATOR - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising an extract of Albizia, and a CLOCK gene activator, in a physiologically acceptable carrier. Application as a composition to prevent and treat signs of fatigue and skin aging.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising the combination of an Albizia extract and a CLOCK gene activator that can be used to prevent and treat signs of fatigue and cutaneous aging.

The skin consists of several integrated layers, ranging from the superficial layer, the epidermis, to the deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis, and each of these layers serves functions that allow the whole to react and react. adapt to its environment. The epidermis is mainly composed of keratinocytes (90% of epidermal cells), melanocytes and Langerhans cells. It constitutes the outer layer of the skin, of variable thickness according to the different parts of the body, and ensures the protection of the body vis-à-vis its external environment. The dermis is the thickest layer, traversed by nerve fibers and blood vessels, consisting mainly of collagen, elastin, proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans, mainly synthesized by dermal fibroblasts. Collagen fibers provide the mechanical strength and texture of the skin, elastin is responsible for its elasticity, glycosaminoglycans and proteoglycans play a major role in the structure and hydration of the skin.

The hypoderm, which contains the lipid-producing fat cells that form a fat layer that protects muscles, bones, and internal organs from shock, is the deepest layer of skin. The degradation of the skin over time can be intrinsic, that is to say chrono-biological, or extrinsic that is to say caused by the environment, in particular pollution, smoking, exposure. in the sun and temperature variations, which can help accelerate the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the dermis. The aging of the skin usually results in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, which can also result from stress and biological and physiological changes, accelerated by lifestyles or by the environment. The appearance of pigment marks, the decrease in skin thickness, its loss of elasticity and its sagging are also changes observed during aging. PP000504 3021539 2 In addition to its continuous aging, the skin changes continuously depending on the person's state of fatigue, which is reflected by signs such as puffiness and dark circles under the eyes, drawn features and dull complexion. Recent studies have shown the involvement of certain circadian genes in human skin cells, especially keratinocytes, melanocytes and fibroblasts, which express proteins derived from circadian genes. With age, there is a loss of rhythmicity and for example the exposure of the skin to UVB rays intervenes in this rhythmic dysfunction induced by the suppression of the expression of certain circadian CLOCK, PERL1 and BAML1 genes, as indicated by JA Desotelle et al., Photochemistry and Photobiology, 88 (5): 1037-47 (Sept. 2012). The expression of circadian genes also varies according to the environmental conditions (season, jet lag), inducing a loss of cellular synchronization.

It is also known that light plays an important role in the regulation of circadian rhythms via supra-chiasmatic nuclei and the regulation of melatonin. Melatonin is a hormone secreted by the pineal gland, and also by the skin, mainly in the absence of light, its concentration in the blood being higher at night.

Numerous cosmetic and dermatological compositions have been proposed for combating the signs of skin aging. However, despite the various substances and compositions available, there is still a need to be able to have new alternative compositions with improved efficiency. As such, a new composition has been discovered by the Applicant. The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising in combination: - an extract of Albizia, and - an activator of the CLOCK genes, in a physiologically acceptable carrier. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating the signs of fatigue and aging of the skin, comprising applying to the exposed areas of the skin a composition comprising in combination an extract of Albizia and a CLOCK gene activator. According to the present invention, the Albizia extract is preferably an extract of Albizia julibrissin, and more preferably a glycerine extract.

The CLOCK gene activator used in the invention may be chosen from the peptides known to activate the CLOCK genes and from the vegetable substances providing this same effect. The CLOCK gene activator has the effect of counteracting the desynchronization of the circadian clock of human fibroblasts, and thus of providing an anti-dull effect and of improving the tone of the skin. Albizia extract has the effect of stimulating the production of melatonin by fibroblasts, promoting nocturnal activity of cellular regeneration. The experiments carried out by the Applicant have shown that the combination of the Albizia extract and the CLOCK gene activator of the invention provides a synergistic effect, resulting in a better activation of the cellular regeneration and repair systems. from the activation of CLOCK genes. Albizia extract: The Albizia extract used in the composition of the invention may be more particularly an extract of Albizia julibrissin, or silk tree, or Mimosa of Constantinople, a developing species of Albizia. without difficulty in temperate regions. Albizia extract is known for its antioxidant properties and its favorable effects against anxiety and stress. It is also known to limit the phenomenon of glycation. The experiments carried out by the Applicant have shown that the extract of Albizia julibrissin has the effect of activating the production of melatonin by the cutaneous cells. A bark extract, especially a glycerine extract, is preferably used, but a flower or leaf extract may also be used.

The extract can be obtained by maceration in water of Albizia julibrissin bark, followed by filtration. The extract is then diluted in glycerine. It is used in the composition of the invention in an amount representing between 0.08 and 5%, preferably between 1 and 4%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Activator of the CLOCK gene: The activator used in the composition of the present invention is capable of activating the clock genes, in particular the CLOCK genes, in dermal human fibroblasts, and an activator peptide or an extract is used for example. In accordance with the invention, a peptide such as Tetrapeptide-26, commercially available under the tradename Chronogen® (Vincience), which has a serum amino acid sequence, is preferably used. Pro-Leu-Gln-NH2, Tripeptide-32, corresponding to the Ser-Thr-Pro-NH2 sequence and commercially available under the trademark Chronolux® (Vincience), and the chronopeptide (glutamylamidoethylimidazole) sold under the trademark Chronocyclin ® 15 (Exsymol), but it is also possible to use a root extract of Lindera strychnifolia, commercially available under the trade name Circagenyl® (Silab). It is used in the composition of the invention in an amount preferably representing between 0.5 and 2%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention is formulated preferably for topical application directly to the skin. It can be used in cosmetics and human dermatology to fight against the signs of skin aging, and more particularly against the signs of fatigue such as puffiness and dark circles under the eyes, drawn features and dull complexion.

It is applied once a day, preferably in the evening, for a minimum of one to two months, which can be extended if necessary, the best results generally being observed after 5 to 6 weeks. Clinical trials conducted on 20 women between 50 and 70 years old, selected with signs of fatigue (dark circles, drawn lines, dull complexion) with hormonal consistency during the 3 months preceding the test and during the test, made it possible to observe after 1 month of treatment consisting in applying, every evening, a serum according to Example 1 below, a decrease in the following signs of aging and skin fatigue: PP000504 3021539 5 - 20% of the size of the bags - 12% dark circles - 2% of the drawn lines - 10% of the dull complexion, 5 and after 2 months of the same treatment: - 37% of the size of the pockets - 40% of the rings - 51% of the drawn features - 27% of the dull complexion, The compositions according to the present invention may be presented in the forms conventionally used for topical application, that is to say in the form of serum, gel, lotion, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), mask or ointment, containing excipients and carriers customary compatible and pharmaceutically acceptable. They may also be in the form of patches, tulles or controlled release dressings. These forms of topical administration are prepared by techniques well known to those skilled in the art, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an emulsion oil in water, or conversely to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion. The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more usual excipients, especially suitable for external topical administration, in particular dermatologically and cosmetologically acceptable excipients. These excipients suitable for the formulation are well known to those skilled in the art, and may be selected for example from one or more of the compounds listed below: i. vectors of active ingredients, such as cyclodextrins; liposomes, for example lecithin; ii. vegetable oils such as, for example, Kukui oil, Calophyllum Inophyllum oil, or Helichrysum, cotton, sunflower, coconut oil, or macadamia oil; PP000504 3021539 6 iii. gelling agents and / or thickeners, such as natural gums such as xanthan gum; synthetic polymers, for example polyacrylamides of the Carbopol type, crosslinked acrylates and cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethyl cellulose; Iv. emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, such as arachidyl glucoside; cetearyl glucoside; cetearyl alcohol; cetostearyl alcohol; cetyl alcohol; glycerol or propylene glycol stearate, isostearyl isostearate; steareth-2; steareth-21; pentaerythrityl distearate; isopropyl myristate, a polysorbate and a sorbitan ester such as laurate and sorbitan stearate; there. emollients and surfactants, such as octyl dodecanol; isononyl isononanoate; capric / caprylic triglycerides; cetearyl octanoate; myristate and isopropyl palmitate; cetearyl isononanoate; polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate; hydrogenated polyisobutene; Cetyl palmitate; cetyl phosphate; octyldodecanol and shea butter which also has calming and soothing properties; vi. moisturizing agents, such as glycerine; the sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA sodium); combinations of glucosic derivatives with moisturizing and restructuring effect, such as the product Aquaxyl® 20 (xylityl glucoside and anhydroxylytol and xylitol); vii. preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol, dehydroacetic acid; sorbic acid; potassium sorbate; benzoic acid; sodium benzoate; methyl or ethyl parahydroxybenzoates; viii. ultraviolet protection agents, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens, selected from benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone; a cinnamic acid ester, and more particularly octyl methoxycinnamate, ethy-2-hexyl methoxycinnamate, or a cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate such as octocrylene, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, and dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, t-butyl-methoxy dibenzoylmethane, and 4-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane; or as pigments forming a UV screen; PP000504 3021539 7 ix. exfoliating powders; fruit powders; or mattifying powders such as methyl methacrylate copolymer; x. perfumes. The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more usual complementary active agents, especially adapted for external topical administration, in particular dermatologically and cosmetologically acceptable active agents. These complementary active agents suitable for the formulation are well known to those skilled in the art, and may be, for example, anti-aging active agents, soothing active agents, purifying active agents, moisturizing active agents, etc. Vitamin E (tocopherol acetate), vitamin C (ascorbic acid or a derivative) or a flaxseed extract (Linum usitatissimum) can be incorporated in the composition of the invention, which contributes to restoring the barrier. lipid and decreases water loss, thereby ensuring better hydration of the skin. Other features and advantages of the present invention will emerge in the light of the examples which follow, said examples being given by way of illustration and in no way limiting.

Serum formulation formulation prepares a serum according to: According to conventional techniques, the invention having the following weight composition Tocopherol 0.03 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Preservative 0.24 Emulsifier 0.30 Perfume 0.50 Tetrapeptide -26 1.00 Flaxseed extract 1.50 30 Glycerin 2.00 Albizia julibrissin (bark extract) 2.00 Thickener 4.00 Water qs The thickener used is customary and comprises hydroxyethyl cellulose, polysorbate 60 and sorbitan isostearate. The preservative comprises salicylic acid, sorbic acid, benzyl alcohol and chlorphenesin.

This serum can be easily applied to all exposed parts of the skin, particularly in the face and neck. It can be applied one to three times a day for a few weeks as long as the desired effect is needed. A longer application time is not disadvantageous.

Example of formulation of a night cream According to conventional techniques, a cream according to the invention having the following weight composition is prepared: Citric acid 0.001 Preservative 0.250 Tocopherol acetate 0.300 Perfume 0.400 Tetrapeptide-26.000 Albizia julibrissin (extract of bark) 3,000 Glycerin 3,000 20 Shea Butter 3,000 Coconut Oil 3,000 Cottonseed Oil 4,000 Emulsifier 5,410 Thickener 6,700 25 Water qs 100,000 The emulsifier used in this formula is cetearyl glucoside and sorbitan isostearate. Thickener and preservative are as above. EXAMPLE OF FORMULATION OF A GEL According to conventional techniques, a gel according to the invention having the following weight composition is prepared: Tocopherol 0.04 Disodium EDTA 0.10 Preservative 0.34 PP000504 3021539 9 Perfume 0.40 Oil sweet almond 1,00 Tetrapeptide-26 1,00 Flaxseed extract 1,50 5 Albizia julibrissin (bark extract) 2,50 Glycerin 3,50 Thickener 4,30 Water qs 100.00 Example of formulation of a fluid cream According to conventional techniques, a fluid cream according to the invention having the following weight composition is prepared: Disodium EDTA 0.10 Perfume 0.20 Tocopherol acetate 0.25 Preservative 0 , 50 Sweet almond oil 1.00 Shea butter 1.00 Albizia julibrissin (bark extract) 1.50 20 Tetrapeptide-26 2.00 Glycerin 3.00 Thickener 3.50 Emulsifier 5.20 Water qs 100.00 The emulsifier used is polymethyl methacrylate, Steareth-21 and Laureth-3. Example of formulation of a rich cream According to conventional techniques, a rich cream according to the invention having the following weight composition is prepared: Citric acid 0.001 Tocopherol acetate 0.200 Preservative 0.260 Perfume 0.400 PP000504 3021539 10 Flaxseed extract 1.500 Tetrapeptide -26 1,500 Albizia julibrissin (bark extract) 1,500 Cottonseed oil 2,000 5 Shea butter 2,500 Glycerine 3,000 Coconut oil 3,000 Thickener 7,700 Emulsifier 9,000 10 Water qs 100,000 The emulsifier used in this formula is cetearyl glucoside, Polysorbate 80 and pentaerythrityl distearate. PP000504

Claims (6)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition characterized in that it comprises in combination - an Albizia extract, and - a CLOCK gene activator, is a peptide or a plant extract chosen from tetrapeptide-26, having the amino sequence Ser-Pro-Leu-Gln-NH2 acids, Tripeptide-32, having the Ser-ThrPro-NH2 sequence, the chronopeptide (glutamylamidoethyl imidazole), and an extract of Lindera strychnifolia roots. in a physiologically acceptable medium. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the Albizia extract is an extract of Albizia julibrissin. 3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it comprises a glycerine extract Albizia. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises between 1% and 4% of Albizia extract and between 0.5% and 2% activator CLOCK genes. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is formulated for topical application 6. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and treating the signs of fatigue and aging of the skin, characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 is applied to the exposed areas of the skin to be treated. PP000504