HK1120753A - Long-lasting cosmetic composition, method for using, and process for making - Google Patents

Description

Long-lasting cosmetic compositions, methods of use and methods of preparation

Background

1. Field of the invention

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions which provide long-lasting wear fastness and good water resistance. More particularly, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly an eyelash-coloring composition for eyelashes, which provides long-lasting abrasion resistance, makes the eyelashes curved, and is excellent in water resistance. More particularly, the present invention relates to compositions that provide a substantially water-resistant film to the skin or eyelashes.

2. Description of the related Art

Women typically use mascara compositions to highlight and enhance the appearance of eyelashes. Such enhancements may include the imparting of color or hue, volume, i.e., thickness and length, and curl. Mascara compositions for eyelashes have been formulated in an aqueous and anhydrous form.

Aqueous compositions typically incorporate a hydrophilic film former to impart curl, volumize and lengthen the lashes, and improve abrasion resistance. Aqueous compositions incorporating hydrophilic film formers suffer from the disadvantage that they are not long lasting and are easily removed with water. This is a serious disadvantage when the eyelashes are exposed to the elements, for example, rain or moisture, or when swimming, washing or bathing.

Anhydrous compositions typically contain waxes, which function to increase the volume of the eyelashes and to make the composition water resistant. Anhydrous compositions have the disadvantage that they do not impart a high degree of curl to the eyelashes and are easily smeared.

It would be desirable to have a composition for dyeing eyelashes that provides the benefits and advantages of both aqueous and anhydrous formulations. There is also a need for an eyelash colouring composition which provides long lasting wear fastness, curl resistance and water resistance to eyelashes.

Brief description of the invention

It is an object of the present invention to have a cosmetic composition that provides long-lasting wear fastness and excellent water resistance.

It is an object of the present invention to have a composition for dyeing eyelashes that provides long-lasting wear fastness and excellent water resistance.

It is also an object of the present invention to have a composition for dyeing eyelashes that provides an excellent degree of curl to the eyelashes, an volumizing effect, and lengthening.

It is a further object of the present invention to have a composition for dyeing eyelashes that provides a high degree of water resistance.

In accordance with these and other objects of the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition, particularly one suitable for use as an eyelash-coloring composition. The composition comprises an anhydrous gel phase comprising a gelling agent and an organic solvent, an aqueous phase comprising a hydrophilic film former and water, and a wax phase comprising a wax and a hydrophilic lanolin derivative. The anhydrous gel phase, the aqueous phase and the wax phase are substantially homogeneously mixed. The hydrophilized lanolin derivative is present in an amount sufficient to adsorb the aqueous phase.

Further in accordance with these and other objects of the present invention, a method of curling and/or coloring eyelashes is provided. The method comprises the step of topically applying to the eyelashes a mascara composition comprising a) an anhydrous gel phase comprising a gelling agent, an organic solvent, and a colorant or pigment; b) an aqueous phase containing a hydrophilic film former and water; and c) a wax phase comprising a wax and a hydrophilized lanolin derivative. The anhydrous gel phase, the aqueous phase and the wax phase are substantially homogeneously mixed. The hydrophilized lanolin derivative is present in an amount sufficient to adsorb the aqueous phase.

Still further in accordance with these and other objects of the present invention, there is provided a method for preparing an eyelash colouring composition. The method comprises the steps of a) mixing an organic solvent with a gelling agent to prepare an anhydrous gel; b) mixing a wax and a hydrophilized lanolin derivative at an elevated temperature to produce a molten wax phase; c) mixing the molten wax phase and the gel phase to produce a gel/wax mixture; d) mixing a hydrophilic film former and water to produce an aqueous phase; e) optionally mixing the fibers with water; and f) mixing the aqueous phase and the gel/wax mixture at an elevated temperature to form the composition.

In accordance with these and other objects of the present invention, there is provided a composition for dyeing eyelashes. The composition comprises an organic solvent, a gelling agent for the organic solvent, a hydrophilic film former, water, a wax, and a hydrophilized lanolin derivative, all of which are substantially homogeneously mixed. The hydrophilized lanolin derivative is present in an amount sufficient to substantially adsorb the water and hydrophilic film former.

In accordance with these and other objects of the present invention, a cosmetic composition is provided. The composition comprises an organic solvent, a gelling agent for the organic solvent, a hydrophilic film former, water, a wax, and a hydrophilized lanolin derivative, all of which are substantially homogeneously mixed. The hydrophilized lanolin derivative is present in an amount sufficient to substantially adsorb the water and hydrophilic film former.

Detailed Description

It has surprisingly been found that a cosmetic composition can provide long lasting wear fastness and an excellent degree of water resistance.

It has been found in fact that the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are substantially impossible to remove with soap and water, and it is generally necessary to remove the product from the skin or eyelashes using an organic solvent-based makeup remover cream. A suitable product for removing the article of the present invention from the skin or from the eyelashes is Perfect Wear Make-up Remover sold by Avon Products, Inc. Because the product composition of the present invention is water resistant as defined above, the consumer can apply the facial moisturizer to the skin or eyelashes on top of the composition without soiling, rubbing off, or smearing. In addition, inclement weather, including high humidity, does not appreciably affect the composition that has been applied to the skin or eyelashes.

Applicants have further found that the compositions of the present invention are long lasting and remain on the skin or eyelashes for at least 10 hours, preferably about 12 hours or more, and most preferably about 16 hours or more. Thus, the compositions of the present invention meet the industry 'all day retention'. Such compositions are particularly preferred when used as mascara compositions.

All percentages recited herein are percentages by weight of the total composition based on the effective amounts of the ingredients, unless otherwise specified.

The cosmetic composition is essentially a homogeneous mixture of three premixes, hereinafter referred to as anhydrous gel phase, wax phase and aqueous phase. In describing each of the three premixes that make up the cosmetic composition, the use of the term "phase" does not mean that the cosmetic composition is a multi-phase composition, but rather that each premix has its own unique compositional properties.

The anhydrous gel phase premix contains an organic solvent and a gelling agent. The wax phase premix contains a wax and a hydrophilized lanolin derivative. The aqueous premix contains a hydrophilic film former and water. Each phase is prepared separately, the gel phase and the wax phase are mixed, and the aqueous phase is subsequently mixed with the above mixture to form a substantially homogeneous composition. By "substantially homogeneous" it is meant that the compositions of the present invention correspond to single phase liquids that do not appreciably clot, coagulate or exude the ingredients used in their preparation under normal use conditions.

The composition allows the use of a hydrophilic film former (oil resistant) and a wax in combination with each other. The compositions provide the advantages of both aqueous and anhydrous (wax-based) products, namely, highly curled eyelashes, increased volume and an excellent degree of water resistance. Hydrophilic film formers can form a film on the surface of eyelashes, imparting a desired degree of curl to the eyelashes. Hydrophilic film formers are soluble or dispersible in water.

The hydrophilic film former is preferably selected from the group consisting of water-soluble cationic polymers, anionic polymers and nonionic polymers. Useful hydrophilic film formers include, but are not limited to, acrylics (acrylates), polyacrylates, acrylamide polymers and copolymers and quaternary ammonium salts thereof, urethanes, polyurethanes, polyesters, polysaccharides, polyamides, polyimides, polyols, polyethers, cellulosics, proteins, polyamino acids, esters derived from rosin, latexes, and any combination thereof.

Particularly preferred hydrophilic film formers are cationic polymers. Useful cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, hydroxymethylchitosan, hydroxyethylcellulose, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-22, and any combination thereof. Polyquaternium-7 is most preferred. Polyquaternium-7 is an ammonium salt of acrylamide/dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymer sold by Ciba Specialty Chemicals under the trade name Salcare Super 7.

Suitable water-soluble film-forming anionic polymers are acrylamide copolymers sold by Sepigel 501 under the name Sepigel, acrylate/ethylhexyl acrylate copolymers, acrylate copolymers (e.g. Aculyn 33 sold by Rohm & Haas), acrylate/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers and sodium acrylate copolymers.

Suitable nonionic water-soluble film-forming polymers are polyurethane-1, polyimide-1 and adipic acid/PPG-10 copolymers. The preferred polyimide-1 is Aquaflex, sold by ISP.

The hydrophilic film former is present in an amount sufficient to form a film on the surface of the skin or eyelashes and impart a desired degree of curl to the eyelashes. Preferably, the hydrophilic film former is about 0.1 wt% to about 5 wt%. More preferably, the hydrophilic film former is about 0.1 wt% to about 2 wt%. Most preferably, the hydrophilic film former is about 0.1 wt% to about 1 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition contains one or more of the waxes described above. Suitable waxes include any wax known in the cosmetic art, such as those derived from animals, plants, minerals, and synthesis. Suitable waxes include, but are not limited to, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, ouricury wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, sugar cane wax, ozokerite wax, polyethylene waxes, beeswax, microcrystalline wax, or any combination thereof.

Suitable waxes have melting points in the range of about 60 ℃ to about 110 ℃, preferably about 70 ° to about 90 ℃, and penetrations in the range of about 1 to about 40, preferably about 3 to about 25, and most preferably about 5 to about 20. The penetration of the wax was determined according to ASTM D1321. It is preferred that the mixture of the hard wax and the soft wax has a mixing melting point and a penetration degree within the preferred ranges. Most preferred is a mixture of carnauba wax, beeswax, ozokerite wax and microcrystalline wax.

In the composition, the wax is present in an amount effective to increase the volume of the eyelashes and impart water resistance to the composition. Preferably, the wax is present in about 2 wt% to about 35 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the wax is present at about 5 wt% to about 30 wt%. Most preferably, the wax is present in about 10 wt% to about 20 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition contains hydrophilized lanolin derivatives. The hydrophilized lanolin derivative is sufficiently hydrophobic that it is miscible with the (melted) wax when the two are mixed. Lanolin derivatives, on the other hand, are sufficiently hydrophilic such that it functions as an adsorbent to separate and retain the aqueous phase in the wax, including a hydrophilic film former, such that the aqueous phase is substantially dispersed as a discontinuous phase in the wax without phase separation. The hydrophilized lanolin derivative is lanolin functionalized with substituents to enhance its degree of hydrophilicity (relative to non-functionalized lanolin). The hydrophilized lanolin derivative is functionalized to a sufficient degree so that it can function as an effective absorbent.

Useful hydrophilized lanolin derivatives include, but are not limited to, hydroxylated lanolin, hydrogenated lanolin, PEG-10 hydrogenated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin alcohols, lanolin fatty acids, PPG-2 lanolin ether, and any combination thereof. The preferred hydroxylated lanolin is OHLan sold by Amerchol corporation.

The hydrophilized lanolin derivative is present in an amount sufficient to adsorb the aqueous phase. The amount of hydrophilized lanolin derivative required will depend on factors such as the hydrophilicity of the lanolin derivative and the amount of aqueous phase to be adsorbed. Typically, the hydrophilized lanolin derivative is from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%. More typically, the hydrophilized lanolin derivative is from about 0.5 wt% to about 5 wt%. Most typically, the hydrophilized lanolin derivative is present from about 1 wt% to about 4 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition contains a gelling agent. The function of the gelling agent is to form an anhydrous gel phase with the organic solvent in the composition. The preferred gelling agent is clay. Useful clays include, but are not limited to, bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, and montmorillonite, all of which are widely commercially available. A particularly preferred gelling agent is distearyldimethylamine hectorite sold by Rheox under the name Bentone 38V. Suitable non-clay gelling agents include olefin/styrene copolymers such as Versagel M and Versagel MC (available from Penreco), Gel Base (available from brooks industries), and propylene carbonate.

The gelling agent is present in the composition in an amount sufficient to form an anhydrous gel phase with the organic solvent. The gelling agent is preferably from about 0.5 wt% to about 20 wt%, most preferably from about 2 wt% to about 5 wt%.

The function of the organic solvent is to form an anhydrous gel phase with the gelling agent. Organic solvents may also be used in the formed composition to dissolve the wax component. Useful organic solvents include, but are not limited to, isododecane (e.g., Permethyl 99A from Presperse Inc.), isoparaffins (e.g., a solvent sold under the trade name Isopar), octadecane, cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, and combinations thereof.

The anhydrous gel phase present in the composition provides a water-resistant coating on eyelashes and skin, exhibiting excellent water resistance or water repellency. When used, the composition is in the form of a gel. But as the solvent, including water and organic solvents, evaporates, a waxy film remains on the eyelashes or skin. The waxy film together with the water-soluble film-forming hydrophilic polymer produces a film which is very difficult to remove by water and which has a very high abrasion resistance. When used as a mascara, the composition can provide substantial benefits in volume and curl due to shrinkage of the film former upon evaporation of the solvent.

The organic solvent has a flash point of at least 30 ℃, preferably from about 35 ℃ to about 90 ℃, most preferably from about 40 ℃ to about 60 ℃ (as measured by ASTM D6450 or ASTM D93).

The organic solvent is present in an amount of about 5 wt% to about 80 wt%, more preferably about 20 wt% to about 50 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition preferably has a water content of about 0.5 to about 25 wt% in the composition. More preferably, the water content of the composition is about 15 wt% or less, based on the total weight of the composition. Water is a solvent or diluent that acts as a hydrophilic film former. Hydrophilic film formers typically provide a soft, flexible film that exhibits good shrinkage and thus can curl the eyelashes as water (and other volatile materials) evaporates.

The cosmetic composition contains one or more pigments, pearlescers and/or colorants (these three terms being interchangeable). Useful pigments and/or colorants include any known in the cosmetic art. Coatings and surface treatments may also be applied to enhance the shine or gloss exhibited by the mascara composition. Examples of useful pigments include titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, ferric blue, and mica; organic pigments include barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum lakes, ultramarine and carbon black; colorants include D & C Green #3, D & C Yellow #5, and D & C Blue # 1. The pigments and/or colorants may be coated or surface treated with one or more compatibilizers to disperse them in the water or wax phase or both. The preferred pigment and/or colorant is with dimethicone tool alcohol.

The pigment/colorant may be present in the composition in an amount of 1 to about 25 wt.%, preferably about 1 to about 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition optionally contains one or more hydrophobic (water resistant) film forming agents to form a film. Hydrophobic film formers include, but are not limited to, polyolefins, polyvinylpyrrolidone polymers and copolymers, polyethylene, polyalkyl, polystyrene, triglycerides, epoxy resins, shellac, or any combination thereof. Preferred hydrophobic film formers are pentaerythritol abietate and polyvinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer. Some of the above waxes, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, ozokerite wax, and microcrystalline wax, also function as hydrophobic film formers. Hydrophobic film formers may be incorporated into the anhydrous gel phase and/or the wax phase.

The compositions of the present invention optionally contain a plurality of fibers. When the composition for dyeing eyelashes is used, the fibers are located on the surface of the eyelashes. The fibers increase the volume of the eyelashes, i.e., increase their thickness and length. The fibres may be of any type known in the cosmetic field, natural or synthetic. Thermoplastic fibers, such as those of polyethylene, polypropylene or nylon, are preferred. To achieve a visual effect, the fibers may be dyed or surface treated. The fibers may be added to any of the anhydrous gel, wax or aqueous phases, but are preferably added to the aqueous phase.

The composition may contain one or more optional ingredients. Useful optional ingredients include, but are not limited to, botanical extracts, chelating agents, depigmenting agents, lubricants, solidifying agents, fragrances, humectants, shine agents such as triisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, moisturizers, preservatives, stabilizers, surfactants, and vitamins.

The cosmetic composition may take the form of many different products. Suitable products include, but are not limited to, mascara, eyeliner, blush, and lipstick/lip gloss.

In the composition of the present invention, the proportions of the anhydrous gel phase, wax phase and anhydrous phase are maintained such that the final mascara composition is a substantially homogeneous mixture of the three. In this regard, sufficient water is provided to the aqueous phase to dissolve the hydrophilic film former which provides the desired eyelash curling benefit of the mascara composition. The wax phase comprises hydrophilic lanolin having sufficient hydrophilicity to maintain the aqueous phase in the composition homogeneous. The anhydrous gel phase provides the composition with the physical form of its gel. Despite the presence of the hydrophilic film former, the wax phase together with the adsorbed aqueous phase provides a coating having a high degree of abrasion resistance and a high degree of water resistance.

The anhydrous phase comprises from 70 wt% to 95 wt%, preferably from about 78 wt% to 90 wt%, of the composition, based on the total weight of the composition. The wax phase comprises about 4 wt% to about 25 wt%, preferably about 10 wt% to about 20 wt%. The aqueous phase comprises from about 1 wt% to about 25 wt%, preferably from about 5 wt% to about 15 wt%.

The invention also features a method of making the mascara composition. The method generally has the following steps: forming an anhydrous gel, forming a wax phase, adding the anhydrous gel phase to the wax phase to form a gel/wax mixture and adding an aqueous phase containing a hydrophilic film former to the gel/wax mixture. The anhydrous gel is prepared by mixing one or more organic solvents with one or more gelling agents. Optionally, hydrophobic (water-resistant) film formers, fillers and compatibilizers such as Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), silica, and aluminum distearate, and colorants can also be added to the anhydrous gel. The wax phase is prepared by mixing one or more waxes and a hydrophilized lanolin derivative at an elevated temperature, preferably about 170-175 ° F. Optionally, preservatives and gloss agents may also be added to the wax phase. The wax phase is added to the gel phase and mixed in molten form. The aqueous phase is prepared by mixing a hydrophilic film former with water. Optionally, fibers and fillers may be added to the aqueous phase. The aqueous phase is heated to an elevated temperature and added to the gel/wax mixture at an elevated temperature, preferably about 120 ° F. It should be understood that the temperatures disclosed above may vary depending on the physical properties of the wax.

The following are examples of the present invention.

Examples

Components	Composition 1 (wt％) a，b	Composition 2 (wt％) a，b	Composition 3 (wt％) a，b
				Anhydrous phase
Isododecane	60	50	35
				Pentaerythritol abietate	5	6	8
Bentonite 38V1	1	2	5
				Propylene carbonate	1	1.2	2
Silica	5		2
				PMMA		10
				Wax phase
Carnauba wax	5	4	5
				Beeswax (Cera flava)	5	4	4
Earth wax	2	1.5	4
				Microcrystalline wax	1	1.5	3
Preservative	0.9	0.9	0.9
				Hydroxylated lanolin2	4	3.6	5
Pigment (I)	4	6	6
				Fiber (Nylon)	0.5	0.9	0.8
TPDD6	1.5	1.5	1.5
				Hydrogenated polydecene7	1.2	1.2	1.2
Aqueous phase
				Hydrophilic polymers	1.23	0.54	0.85
Distilled water	Q.S.	Q.S.	Q.S.
					100％	100％	100％

^aPercentages are on an "acceptable" basis, with actives in acceptable materials being indicated on the footnote. If not indicated, the actives are 100%.

^bWeight percent of the total composition

¹Distearyldimethylamine hectorite from Elementis Specialties, Inc

²Ohlan of Amerchol Corp

³Polyimide-1 can be prepared using the ISP Aquaflex XL-30 (30% active in water).

⁴Polyquaternium-7 Salcaresuper 7 (30% active) from Ciba Specialty Chemicals can be used.

⁵Acrylate copolymers Daitosol 5000AD (30% active in water) from Daito Kasei may be used.

⁶Triisostearamidyl-3 dimer dilinoleate sold by Scher Chemicals as Schercemel PTID.

⁷Ceraflow E manufactured by Shamrock Technologies, Inc

The propylene carbonate solvent was heated to about 170-175F and Bentone 38V clay and pentaerythritol abietate were mixed in. Pigments, fillers (silica and PMMA) were then incorporated to give an anhydrous gel phase premix. Several waxes are heated above their melting point to about 75-80 c and preservatives and hydroxylated lanolin, TPDD hydrogenated polydecene are added with stirring. The wax phase premix is then added to the anhydrous gel phase premix at this temperature. The mixture was cooled to 65-70 ℃. Preparing an aqueous phase comprising heating water and a hydrophilic film former to about 65-70 ℃, adding to the mixture, and stirring for 10 minutes. The mixture was then cooled to room temperature.

The above composition may be applied to eyelashes to curl, lengthen, thicken, and color them.

It should be understood that the above description is only illustrative of the present invention. Various alternatives and modifications can be devised by those skilled in the art without departing from the invention. Accordingly, the present invention is intended to embrace all such alternatives, modifications and variances which fall within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims (26)

1. A cosmetic composition comprising:

an anhydrous gel phase comprising a gelling agent and an organic solvent;

an aqueous phase containing a hydrophilic film former and water;

a wax phase comprising a wax and a hydrophilized lanolin derivative,

wherein the anhydrous gel phase, the aqueous phase, and the wax phase are substantially homogeneously mixed, and wherein the hydrophilized lanolin derivative is present in an amount sufficient to adsorb the aqueous phase.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic film former is selected from the group consisting of cationic polymers, anionic polymers, and nonionic polymers.

3. The composition of claim 2, wherein the hydrophilic film former is a cationic polymer.

4. The composition of claim 3, wherein the cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-22, and any combination thereof.

5. The composition of claim 2, wherein the hydrophilic film former is an anionic polymer selected from the group consisting of acrylamide copolymers, acrylate/ethylhexyl acrylate copolymers, acrylate/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, sodium acrylate copolymers, and any combination thereof.

6. The composition of claim 2, wherein the hydrophilic film former is a nonionic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyurethane-1, polyimide-1, adipic acid/PPG-10 copolymer, and any combination thereof.

7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic film former is about 0.1 wt% to about 2 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic film former is about 0.1 wt% to about 1.5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic film former is about 0.1 wt% to about 1 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophilized lanolin derivative is selected from the group consisting of hydroxylated lanolin, hydrogenated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, PEG-10 hydrogenated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin alcohol, lanolin fatty acids, PPG-2 lanolin ether, and any combination thereof.

11. The composition of claim 10, wherein the hydrophilized lanolin derivative is hydroxylated lanolin.

12. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophilized lanolin derivative is present from about 0.1 wt% to about 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophilized lanolin derivative is present from about 0.5 wt% to about 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophilized lanolin derivative is present from about 1 wt% to about 4 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition of claim 1, wherein the wax is selected from the group consisting of beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite wax, and combinations thereof.

16. The composition of claim 1, wherein the wax is about 8 wt% to about 35 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

17. The composition of claim 1, further comprising a colorant or pigment.

18. The composition of claim 1, further comprising a fiber.

19. The composition of claim 1 wherein the gelling agent is a clay.

20. The composition of claim 19, wherein the clay is selected from the group consisting of bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, and montmorillonite.

21. The composition of claim 1, wherein the gelling agent is about 0.5 wt% to about 20 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

22. The composition of claim 1 wherein the organic solvent is selected from the group consisting of isododecane, propylene carbonate, isoparaffins, and combinations thereof.

23. The composition of claim 1, wherein the organic solvent is from about 5 wt% to about 80 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

24. A method of curling and/or coloring eyelashes comprising topically applying to the eyelashes a mascara composition comprising

A colorant or pigment;

an anhydrous gel phase comprising a gelling agent and an organic solvent;

an aqueous phase containing a hydrophilic film former and water; and

a wax phase comprising a wax and a hydrophilized lanolin derivative,

wherein the anhydrous gel phase, the aqueous phase, and the wax phase are substantially homogeneously mixed, and wherein the hydrophilized lanolin derivative is present in an amount sufficient to adsorb the aqueous phase.

25. A method of preparing an eyelash dyeing composition comprising

a) Mixing an organic solvent with a gelling agent to prepare an anhydrous gel;

b) mixing a wax and a hydrophilized lanolin derivative at an elevated temperature to produce a molten wax phase;

c) mixing the molten wax phase and the gel phase to produce a gel/wax mixture;

d) incorporating a pigment or colorant in any of steps a, b or c.

e) Mixing a hydrophilic film former and water to produce an aqueous phase;

f) optionally mixing the fibers with water;

g) mixing the aqueous phase and the gel/wax mixture at an elevated temperature;

h) cooling the mixture obtained in step g.

26. A cosmetic composition comprising:

an organic solvent;

a gelling agent for the organic solvent;

a hydrophilic film-forming agent;

water;

a wax; and

a hydrophilized lanolin derivative which is useful as a cosmetic,

wherein the organic solvent, gelling agent, hydrophilic film former, water, wax, and hydrophilized lanolin derivative are substantially homogeneously mixed, wherein the hydrophilized lanolin derivative is present in an amount sufficient to substantially adsorb the water and hydrophilic film former.