JP2009501209A - Beauty methods for the treatment of wrinkles - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is
(A) a first phase comprising a powder phase comprising porous particles comprising at least one anti-wrinkle active ingredient adsorbed and / or adsorbed to the porous particles and substantially lacking a solvent for said active ingredient Topical application of the composition to wrinkled areas; and (b) topical application to the facial skin comprising at least said areas of a second composition comprising a fatty phase and / or an aqueous phase containing a solvent for the active ingredient. The cosmetic method for the care of the skin which has the wrinkle for the purpose of softening a wrinkle including the continuous process of these.

Description

The subject of the present invention is
(A) a first phase comprising a powder phase comprising porous particles comprising at least one anti-wrinkle active ingredient adsorbed and / or adsorbed to the porous particles and substantially lacking a solvent for said active ingredient Topical application of the composition to wrinkled areas; and (b) topical application to the facial skin comprising at least said areas of a second composition comprising a fatty phase and / or an aqueous phase containing a solvent for the active ingredient. The cosmetic method for the care of the skin which has the wrinkle for the purpose of softening a wrinkle including the continuous process of these.

  The interest in maintaining the youthful appearance of the skin for as long as possible is the immersion of most women and the increasing influence on men. There are a wide variety of cosmetic compositions on the market that are targeted to meet this need. Care creams or fluids that are generally intended to be applied to the entire face and neck, including anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as retinol or its esters, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), or various plant extracts It is. These active ingredients are also found in certain make-up products such as foundations, and the biological action of the active ingredients they contain not only has a good and quick effect on appearance, but also wrinkles. There is an increasing tendency to give consumers a means to continuously soften such skin defects.

  These solutions in the art are generally satisfactory, but are used by consumers with regard to their skin types and associated aesthetic defects that can vary in one and other areas of the same individual's skin. There is a significant tendency for the products to become technically more complex in order to meet consumer expectations regarding the suitability of the products to be performed.

  Applicants can meet this need by providing a cosmetic method in at least two steps, preferably using a compressed powder in the first step and a cream or gel in the second step. I discovered that there is. This method is able to specifically target wrinkles by providing an anti-wrinkle active ingredient in the center of the wrinkle, while giving an overall appearance improvement to the entire face.

  The HAPPI database (January 2004), accessible via the Internet, is for facial use comprising a powder phase comprising nylon (R) particles impregnated with hyaluronic acid having an average particle size of 5 μm and a dry binder. A composition in the form of a compressed powder is revealed (Orgasol 2002 N5 HY COS).

  In addition, US Pat. No. 5,876,758 (Examples 17 and 20) discloses an anhydrous facial decolorizing compressed powder comprising about 20 μm nylon® particles adsorbed with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

  Patent application EP-1 493 433 also reveals a composition intended to target the active compound in the follicular sebaceous unit, in particular for the treatment of greasy skin and hair loss. Furthermore, it has been shown that the pilosebaceous unit constitutes a potential passage for anti-deep wrinkle type reagents. These compositions comprise porous particles having a volume average diameter of 10 μm or less, which may itself contain an anti-wrinkle active ingredient such as vitamin C. These compositions can optionally be present in the form of a compressed powder and thus comprise a powder phase containing the above-mentioned particles and a binder.

  Finally, 20 to 40 μm microcapsules disclosed in the patent application US 2003/0180369 and marketed by Cognis under the name Active Powder are known. Thus, Active Powders Firmness LS 9689 products consist of such microcapsules containing legume extract with anti-elastic activity and are incorporated into anhydrous makeup products such as press powder for the purpose of promoting skin tightening. Provided as suitable for.

  Patent application WO 98/58628 also discloses an anhydrous whitening composition, optionally in powder form, which delivers the active ingredient to the stratum corneum, the upper layer of the epidermis. These compositions comprise an exfoliating agent, in particular salicylic acid, adsorbed on or in a support material, such as polyamide, in which at least 80% of the particles have a particle size not exceeding 20 μm and preferably greater than 10 μm. The particles of the support material serve to protect the skin release agent in the phenomenon of incompatibility with the other active ingredients of the composition. They include an exfoliating agent in the form of optionally dissolved or dispersed in a hydrophilic support medium such as water, alcohol, or ether. The application of this whitening composition can be preceded by application to a moisturizing base skin.

  However, the use of a second composition that promotes the release of an anti-wrinkle active ingredient in a method that includes a further step of application to the skin is not in these references of these compositions of the compressed powder type that target wrinkles. Not suggested.

  Thus, the composition described in the HAPPI database is not intended to be covered by a cream or gel type second composition, but rather applied on a day cream to beautify the complexion Is contemplated. The hyaluronic acid thus deposited on the skin remains maintained on the surface of the epidermis and cannot penetrate wrinkles because it is not massaged.

  Furthermore, patent application EP-1 493 433 is that the release of the active ingredient adsorbed and / or absorbed by the particles is carried out by simply contacting the particles with sebum present in the follicular sebaceous follicles. Is considered exclusively. In fact, when the compositions of EP-1 493 433 are used to target facial wrinkles, they extend to humans that otherwise exhibit low seborrhea (especially in postmenopausal women) / Or applied to areas of the skin that are typically low in sebum (eg, as opposed to nasal muscles). Insufficient release of the active ingredient absorbed by the particles will be ensured.

  Furthermore, microcapsules with an aqueous core disclosed in patent application US 2003/0180369 are capable of releasing the active ingredients they contain without further steps. However, in contrast to the porous particles used according to the invention, these microcapsules are capable of delivering only hydrophilic active ingredients. In addition, they contain water, which makes the active ingredient sensitive to evaporation.

Finally, it is not suggested in patent application WO 98/58628 to apply a moisturizing base on a composition comprising particles impregnated with an exfoliating agent. In fact, Applicants have more effectively targeted and thus treated wrinkles as application of a composition comprising particles comprising an anti-wrinkle active substance continues with application of a composition capable of releasing this active ingredient. Showed that it was possible. In contrast, if these steps are reversed, either the moisturizing composition evaporates from the skin or penetrates the skin before mixing the hydrophilic active ingredient immobilized on the particles with the aqueous phase. There is a danger that poses. Thus, the particles will not be properly wetted and the active ingredient will not be released, or will be released insufficiently from the particles at any rate.
Patent US-5 876 758 Patent application EP-1 493 433 Patent application US 2003/0180369 Patent application WO 98/58628

  Thus, it is possible to target wrinkles aimed at making the wrinkles less noticeable, i.e. avoiding more economically harmful losses on the wrinkle-free surface of the active ingredient present in the product For the purpose, it is possible to deliver a large amount of anti-wrinkle active ingredient to the bottom of the wrinkle rather than the surface of the skin, while still having an available cosmetic product at the site of action that allows for a uniform distribution and good release of the active ingredient Desired.

  In fact, the Applicant has shown that this purpose can be achieved by the sequential application of two predetermined compositions to the skin, the first composition containing an anti-wrinkle active ingredient in the wrinkles. Contemplated for delivery, the second composition is intended to allow uniform distribution and release of these active ingredients.

Thus, the subject of the present invention is
(A) a first phase comprising a powder phase comprising porous particles comprising at least one anti-wrinkle active ingredient adsorbed and / or adsorbed to the porous particles and substantially lacking a solvent for said active ingredient Topical application of the composition to wrinkled areas; and (b) topical application to the facial skin comprising at least said areas of a second composition comprising a fatty phase and / or an aqueous phase containing a solvent for the active ingredient. The cosmetic method for the care of the skin which has the wrinkle for the purpose of softening a wrinkle including the continuous process of these.

  Application of the first composition can reveal the area of the skin to be treated. The application of the second composition may evenly distribute the particles containing the active ingredient, infiltrate them into the bottom of the wrinkle under the effect of the massage performed, and release the active ingredient delivered to the site of action. Is possible. During this step of the method according to the invention, the powder deposited on the skin in the first step becomes invisible under the effect of being moistened by the second composition, and one and / or the other of the composition is When a filler having a soft focus effect is included, wrinkles may be smoothed quickly. In the latter case, the method according to the invention softens the wrinkles both rapidly with optical effects and with a longer duration in a sustained manner due to the biological effects of the delivered active ingredient. Is possible.

  Another advantage of the present invention is that a large amount of filler is applied to the skin that is optionally masking wrinkles, free of discomfort, and useful for efficacy compared to methods involving the application of a single composition. This is possible.

  Another advantage of the present invention is that it can specifically treat areas of the skin that require specific care while providing a brighter, more opaque, more uniform complexion throughout the facial skin. This is possible, for example, by introducing into the second composition active ingredients and / or fillers capable of obtaining these effects. Since the above method steps are not exclusive, specifically target pores, such as those disclosed in patent application EP-1 493 433, including porous particles comprising an anti-seborrheic active ingredient Thus, it is also possible to predict an intermediate step between the first step and the second step, including application to the skin of a composition intended to be applied to the T zone of the face. Thus, it would be possible to provide a specific anti-aging kit for greasy skin.

  Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “anti-wrinkle active ingredient” produces a biological effect such as increased synthesis and / or activity of a specific enzyme when in contact with a wrinkled skin area. Interpreted to mean compounds of natural or synthetic origin, this effect has the result of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine wrinkles.

  Examples of anti-wrinkle active ingredients that can be used in the present invention can be selected from: dermabrasion agents; anti-glycation agents; NO synthase inhibitors; stimulates synthesis of and / or degrades dermal or epidermal macromolecules Reagents that stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes; reagents that stimulate or reduce keratinocyte differentiation; muscle relaxants and / or skin decontractants; reagents that counteract free radicals; Mixture of.

  Examples of such further compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives; retinol and its derivatives such as retinyl palmitate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and its Derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives such as in particular patents Those disclosed in application EP-1 345 919, in particular C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, such as those disclosed in patent application EP-1 345 919; plant extracts, in particular crissum extract, and Olive leaf extract, And plant proteins and hydrolysates thereof, such as rice or soy protein hydrolysates; algal extracts, in particular kombu extracts; bacterial extracts; sapogenins, such as diosgenin, and Dioscorea extracts, in particular yam extracts containing them; α Β-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and 5- (n-octanoyl) salicylic acid; oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and acylated derivatives thereof, in particular {2- [acetyl (3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl) amino] -3-methylbutyrylamino} acetic acid, and lipopeptides marketed by Sederma under the trade names Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene; manganese and magnesium salts, in particular gluconate; and mixtures thereof.

Particularly as adenosine derivatives, non-phosphorylated adenosine derivatives such as in particular 2'-deoxyadenosine; 2 ', 3',-isopropylidene adenosine; toyokamycin; 1-methyladenosine; N-6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide 6-methyl mercaptopurine riboside; and 6-chloropurine riboside. Other adenosine derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyladenosine (“PIA”), 1-methylisoguanosine, N ⁶ -cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N ⁶ -cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N ^6. - cyclopentyl adenosine, 2-chloro-adenosine, ^{N 6} - phenyl adenosine, 2-phenylamino adenosine, MECA, ^{N 6} - phenethyl adenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxyethyl) phenethylamino-5'-N-ethyl carboxamide adenosine (CGS-21680), (N-ethylcarboxamide) adenosine (NECA), 5 '-(N-cyclopropylcarboxamide) adenosine, DPMA (PD129,944), and metrifudil. Other adenosine derivatives include compounds that increase the intracellular concentration of adenosine, such as erythro-9- (2-hydroxy-3-nonyl) adenosine ("EHNA"), and iodotubercidine. Still other adenosine derivatives include their salts and alkyl esters.

［式中：
−Ｓは、ピラノース及び／またはフラノース形態の、Ｌ及び／またはＤ型の、モノサッカリド、または２０までの糖単位のポリサッカリドを表し、前記モノまたはポリサッカリドは、少なくとも一つの必須に遊離したヒドロキシル官能基、及び／または任意に一つ以上の任意に保護されたアミン官能基を示す；
−Ｓ−ＣＨ_２−Ｘ結合は、アノマー炭素の性質の結合を表し；
−Ｘは、−ＣＯ−、−ＣＨ（ＯＨ）−、−ＣＨ（ＮＲ_１Ｒ_２）−、−ＣＨＲ'−、−Ｃ（＝ＣＨＲ'）−から選択される基を表し；
−Ｒは、直鎖状または分枝状で飽和または不飽和のアルキル、パーフルオロアルキル、またはヒドロフルオロアルキル鎖、１から１８の炭素原子を含むシクロアルキル、シクロパーフルオロアルキル、またはシクロヒドロフルオロアルキル環、あるいはフェニルまたはベンジル基を表し、前記鎖、前記環、または前記基は、酸素、硫黄、窒素、またはケイ素から選択される一つ以上のヘテロ原子によって任意に中断され、−ＯＲ'_１、−ＳＲ"_１、−ＮＲ'"_１Ｒ'_２、−ＣＯＯＲ"_２、−ＣＯＮＨＲ'"_２、−ＣＮ、ハロゲン、パーフルオロアルキル、またはヒドロフルオロアルキルから選択される少なくとも一つの基、及び／または任意に置換された少なくとも一つのシクロアルキル、アリール、または複素環基によって任意に置換される；
−Ｒ'、Ｒ_１、及びＲ_２は、同一または異なり、Ｒについて所定のものと同じ定義を有し、水素及びヒドロキシル基を表すこともできる；
−Ｒ'_１、Ｒ'_２、Ｒ"_１、Ｒ"_２、Ｒ'"_１、及びＲ'"_２は、同一または異なり、水素原子、または直鎖状または分枝状で飽和または不飽和であり、１から３０の炭素原子を含むアルキル、ヒドロキシル、パーフルオロアルキル、及び／またはヒドロフルオロアルキル基から選択される基を表す］。 The term “C-glycoside derivative” is understood to mean in particular the compounds disclosed in patent application EP-1 345 919, corresponding to the following formula (I):

[Where:
-S represents a L- and / or D-form monosaccharide in the pyranose and / or furanose form, or a polysaccharide of up to 20 sugar units, wherein said mono or polysaccharide is at least one essential free hydroxyl Represents a functional group, and / or optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups;
The —S—CH ₂ —X bond represents a bond of the anomeric carbon nature;
-X is, -CO -, - CH (OH ) -, - CH (NR 1 R 2) -, - CHR '-, - C (= CHR') - represents a group selected from;
-R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, perfluoroalkyl, or hydrofluoroalkyl chain, cycloalkyl, cycloperfluoroalkyl, or cyclohydrofluoroalkyl containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms Represents a ring, or a phenyl or benzyl group, wherein said chain, said ring, or said group is optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, or silicon, -OR ' ₁ , _{-SR "1, -NR '" 1} R' 2, -COOR "2, -CONHR '" 2, -CN, halogen, perfluoroalkyl, or at least one group selected from hydro fluoroalkyl, and / or Optionally substituted with at least one optionally substituted cycloalkyl, aryl, or heterocyclic group
-R ', R ₁ and R ₂ are the same or different and have the same definition as given for R, and may also represent hydrogen and hydroxyl groups;
-R ' ₁ , R' ₂ , R " ₁ , R" ₂ , R '" ₁ , and R'" ₂ are the same or different and are a hydrogen atom or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated And represents a group selected from alkyl, hydroxyl, perfluoroalkyl, and / or hydrofluoroalkyl groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms].

  The first composition used according to the present invention comprises particles having porous properties that adsorb a sufficient amount of the active ingredient. They are preferably spherical or substantially spherical and advantageously have a volume average diameter in the range of greater than 10 μm and less than 100 μm, advantageously 10 to 50 μm and indeed 20 to 50 μm.

  The volume average diameter of the particles can be measured by various methods. In particular, the light scattering method (dynamic and static), the Coulter counter method, the measurement by sedimentation velocity (with respect to the size via Stokes law), and the microscope. These methods can measure the sphere diameter, and some of them can measure the particle size distribution.

  Preferably, the size and size distribution of the particles of the composition according to the invention are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle sizer of the MasterSize 2000 type from Malvern. This data is processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory is true for isotropic particles, and in the case of non-spherical particles, it is possible to measure an “effective” particle size. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

［式中、Ｖｉは有効径ｄｉを有する粒子の体積を表す］。このパラメーターは、粒径測定器の技術文献に特に記載されている。 The particles of the composition are characterized by a volume average “effective” diameter D [4,3] defined in the following manner:

[Wherein Vi represents the volume of particles having an effective diameter di]. This parameter is specifically described in the technical literature of particle size measuring instruments.

  Said measurement is carried out at 25 ° C. on a diluted dispersion of particles obtained from the composition in the following manner: 1) dilution by a factor of 100 in the predominant solvent of the phase to be analyzed, 2) of the solution Homogenize, 3) leave the solution for 18 hours, 4) collect the gray uniform supernatant.

  “Effective” diameter measures 1.33 reflectivity for water and chemistry, measuring average reflectivity of particles 1.53 for nylon® and 1.45 for silica It is obtained by doing. The reflectance of the particles can be experimentally measured by the “contrast strike-through” method. Preparing a mixture with intermediate reflectivity by selecting two fully miscible solvents (ethanol: 1.36, phenylethyl alcohol: 1.529) having reflectivities that are relatively far from each other Is possible. The test particles are suspended in these various solvent mixtures, after which the clarity of these solutions is evaluated using a Hach 2100P® turbidimeter marketed by Hach. The reflectivity of the particles is at least equal to that of the solvent mixture from which a turbid solution is obtained, i.e. a solution exhibiting a minimum turbidity corresponding to the smallest difference in reflectivity between the particles and the solvent.

  The BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method is a method well known to those skilled in the art. It is described in particular in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309 and corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The specific surface area measured by the BET method corresponds to the total specific surface area, i.e. includes the surface area formed by the pores.

  The particles that can be used according to the present invention include organic particles such as those made of polyamide (nylon) and inorganic particles such as those made of silica. As the polyamide particles, for example, nylon (registered trademark) 6, nylon (registered trademark) 6,6, nylon (registered trademark) 6,12, in particular, sold by Arkema under the trade name Orgasol 2002 D NAT COS 204, The use of nylon 12 having an average particle size of 20 μm is mentioned. As silica particles, mention may be made in particular of the use of 20 μm amorphous silica microspheres marketed by Asahi Glass under the trade name Sunsphere H-201.

  The particles used according to the invention can be treated with at least one hydrophobic treatment agent, in particular a non-fluorinated hydrophobic treatment agent, if appropriate, provided that they maintain pores. .

This hydrophobic treatment agent can in particular be selected from:
-Silicone, such as methicone or dimethicone;
Fatty acids such as stearic acid;
Metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate or hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salts;
-Amino acids, N-acylated amino acids or their salts;
-Lecithin, isopropyl titanium triisostearate; and-mixtures thereof.

  N-acylated amino acids can include acyl groups containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, and cocoyl groups. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

  The porous particles have a content in the range of 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably in the range of 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It can be present in the first composition according to the invention.

  Furthermore, the anti-wrinkle active ingredient may comprise at least 0.5% by weight, preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the particles present in the first composition. . Furthermore, the anti-wrinkle active ingredient can represent at most 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the particles present in the first composition.

  Preferably, the anti-wrinkle active ingredient is in a proportion of, for example, at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of active ingredient present in the first composition. Present in the particles.

Particles containing the active ingredient can be obtained according to an impregnation method comprising the following steps:
Dissolution of the encapsulated active ingredient in a volatile solvent such as water, acetone, isopropanol, dichloromethane, or methanol to obtain an impregnation solution;
-Impregnation of the particles with said impregnation solution;
-Evaporation of the solution until a dry powder is obtained.

  In the above method, the term “volatile” is understood to mean a compound that is liquid at temperatures above 20 ° C. and has a vapor pressure greater than 1 millibar at 20 ° C. Vapor pressure is defined as the pressure that is equivalent to the liquid.

  This method makes it possible to obtain particles that, once introduced into an anhydrous composition, cannot release the contained active ingredient or will release very little. Furthermore, in some cases there will be no hydration of the active ingredient which causes a deterioration in the appearance of the powder, for example the “caking” phenomenon of the powder.

  The first composition according to the invention can also contain pigments and / or fillers, especially when it is present in the form of a compressed powder.

  The term “pigment” is to be understood as meaning white or colored inorganic or organic particles of any shape that are insoluble in the composition and intended to be colored.

  Titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, or cerium oxide optionally treated on the surface as inorganic pigments, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium And ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, or copper powder. The pigment can also be selected from metal oxide nanopigments such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, and mixtures thereof. The term “nanopigment” is understood to mean a pigment having an average particle size in the range of 1 nm to 500 nm, preferably in the range of 10 nm to 100 nm.

  Organic pigments include carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes, particularly lakes based on barium, strontium, calcium, or aluminum cochineal carmine.

  The pigment can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The first composition used according to the invention can comprise further powder coloring substances other than the pigments mentioned above, which can be chosen in particular from pearlescent agents.

  The term “pearlescent agent” should be understood to mean iridescent particles of any shape produced or synthesized by a particular crustacean, especially in its shell. Pearlescent agents are coated with white pearlescent agents such as mica coated with titanium oxide or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent agents such as titanium oxide coated mica coated with iron oxide, in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide Titanium oxide coated mica, or titanium oxide coated mica coated with organic pigments of the type described above, and pearlescent agents based on bismuth oxychloride can be selected.

  The pearlescent agent is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Can exist.

  The first composition used according to the present invention may additionally or alternatively comprise fillers other than the porous particles described above, pearlescent agents, and pigments.

  The term “filler” should be understood to mean colorless or white inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in the medium of the composition and do not color the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is produced. .

  The filler may have any shape, platelet, sphere, ellipse, or rectangle, and may be in any crystal form (eg, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). . Talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly-β-alanine, and polyethylene powder, polymers formed from tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon), lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as Poly (vinylidene chloride) / acrylonitrile, such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or acrylic acid copolymer, silicone resin microbeads (eg Tospearl® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomers Particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxide, polyurethane powder, composite filler, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules And the like.

A filler selected from the following is particularly suitable for the present invention:
-Silicone resin powder, for example, Silicone Resin Tospearl 145A from GE Silicone having an average diameter of 4.5 μm;
-Hollow hemispherical silicone particles such as NLK 500, NLK 506, and NLK 510 from Takemoto Oil and Fat;
A wax powder, for example Paraffin Wax Microease 114S particles from Micropawders having an average diameter of 7 μm;
A polyethylene powder, in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, in particular consisting of an ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, for example Flobeads EA 209 particles from Sumitomo (having an average diameter of 10 μm);
A powder formed from a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with a silicone resin, in particular a silsesquioxane resin, as disclosed for example in patent US 5 538 793; Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu;
-Composite powders formed from talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica, such as those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80 by the company Catalyst & Chemicals.

  The composition comprises a metal soap derived from an organic carboxylic acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, or myristic Magnesium acid can be included.

  Said filler can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 95% by weight, preferably from 1 to 85% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  If present, the fatty phase of the first composition used according to the present invention, referred to as a binder when present in the form of a compressed powder, has surface active properties within the meaning of the McCutcheon and CTFA dictionaries. It is a fat phase at an ambient temperature (25 ° C.) made of a water-soluble liquid or a wax-like compound without having a water content. This fatty phase can in particular comprise one or more oils and / or waxes commonly used in compressed powders.

  Oils and waxes that can be used include soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rape seed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, or ground nut oil; hydrocarbon oil For example, liquid paraffin, squalene, liquid petrolatum or polydecene; fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, lauric acid 2 -Hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-octyldecyl lactate, di (2-ethylhexyl succinate) ), Diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate, or diglyceryl triisostearate; polysiloxanes modified with silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, or polyoxyalkylenes, or Fluorinated silicones; perfluorinated oils; oleic acid, linoleic acid, or linolenic acid; higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol or oleyl alcohol.

  The fatty phase can be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

  The first composition can include other ingredients (adjuvants) commonly used in cosmetics, such as preservatives, UV screening agents, thickeners, surfactants, or fragrances.

  Of course, the person skilled in the art will pay attention to the choice of any adjuvant added to the first composition according to the invention, and the advantageous properties inherently associated with the composition according to the invention will depend on the addition considered. It will not be negatively affected or substantially negatively affected.

  The first composition used according to the present invention is substantially devoid of solvent for the active ingredient.

  This term means that if the active ingredient can be dissolved to a concentration of at least 0.1% by weight (ie, forms a solution) at a temperature between 20 and 37 ° C. by simple stirring with a magnetic bar, It is understood that it means that only less than wt.%, Preferably less than 2 wt.%, More preferably less than 0.5 wt.% Of compounds are included.

  In particular, if the active ingredient absorbed in the particles is hydrophilic, the first composition used according to the invention is thus an anhydrous composition, ie the composition is less than 5% by weight of water, preferably It is preferred that it contains less than 2% by weight of water, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, especially no water.

  The composition advantageously mixes the powder phase ingredients (optional polyamide particles, filler, pearlescent agent, and pigment), then adds the fatty phase with stirring, and then grinds the mixture ( For example, in a Baker type powder blender), it is provided in the form of a compressed powder which can be prepared by sieving and then pouring and compressing.

  The milled and sieved mixture of the powder phase and the fat phase is compressed using a press, for example by application of a pressure, in particular in the range from 0.5 to 10 MPa, preferably in the range from 1 to 5 MPa.

  The compressed powder can in particular be applied to the skin using a sponge or powder puff.

  In an alternative form, the first composition used according to the invention can be provided in a form similar to a modeling clay, in which case it can contain up to 40% by weight of a binder.

  According to another possibility, the first composition is generally obtained by mixing the ingredients under high temperature conditions until a liquid is obtained and then casting the liquid into a container (while still in high temperature conditions). Can be present in the form of cast products obtained. After returning to ambient temperature, the solid composition can be applied to the skin using a powder puff, sponge, brush, or finger.

  The method according to the invention comprises the topical application of a second composition comprising a fatty phase and / or an aqueous phase comprising a solvent for the active ingredient to the facial skin (the area treated during the first step). A second step). Thus, this second composition is suitable for releasing the active ingredient absorbed in the porous particles described above. The amount of solvent relative to the active ingredient depends on the concentration of the active ingredient present in the second composition and, when the active ingredient is water soluble, is in contact with the skin, optionally in combination with water naturally present in the skin. When adjusted to release the maximum amount of active ingredient.

  The nature of the solvent depends on the nature of the active ingredient. The solvent can in particular be selected from water, ethanol, glycols or oils that are physiologically acceptable. The term “physiologically acceptable” is understood to mean that the solvent is compatible with the skin. Preferably the solvent is a commercial product, i.e. unacceptable discomfort (burning, redness, tension, etc.) that discourages users from using this composition at the concentration used in the second composition. ) Does not cause.

  The second composition comprises all formulation forms conventionally used for topical application, in particular lotion or gel type dispersions, dispersion of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O). ) Emulsions with emulsion type liquid or semi-solid consistency, or suspensions or emulsions with soft semi-solid or solid consistency of cream or gel type, or multi-phase emulsions (W / O / W or O / W / O), microemulsions, ionic and / or non-ionic type vesicle dispersions, or waxy / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared by standard methods.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition is provided in the form of an O / W emulsion. According to another embodiment, it is provided in the form of a W / O emulsion comprising at least 50% by weight of an intermediate aqueous phase, which can be obtained in particular by the technique of “Phase Inversion (PIT)”.

  The composition further comprises an emulsifier comprising glyceryl fatty acid esters, optionally polyoxyethylenated sugar fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, and sorbitan fatty acid esters; fillers, especially fillers having a soft focus effect, such as silica or silica / Alumina composite filler colloidal dispersions or polyamide resins; preservatives; sequestering agents; colorants; fragrances; and thickeners and gelling agents, especially acrylamide homo and copolymers, acrylic homo and copolymers, and acrylamide methyl Various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic field such as propane sulfonic acid (AMPS) homo and copolymers can be included.

  It further comprises an anti-wrinkle active ingredient specifically selected from those described above and / or an active ingredient having other properties, in particular an active ingredient having antibacterial properties, anti-seborrheic properties, sedative properties, decolorizing properties, or moisturizing properties , But is not limited to this list.

  The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples described below.

Example 1: A two-stage action product for treating wrinkles A kit is prepared comprising two products intended to be applied sequentially to the skin having the following composition:

Product 1: Compressed powder
Luzenac Talc 69%
Polyamide 12 particles containing 5% by weight of adenosine 20%
Magnesium stearate 2.5%
Polydimethylsiloxane 7.31%
Silicone wax 0.15%
Silicone resin 0.04%
Preservative 1%

Manufacturing method:
Loaded polyamide particles are prepared in the following manner: 2 g adenosine, 100 ml water, 0.5 g ethylene oxide / propylene oxide / ethylene oxide copolymer (128EO / 54OP / 128EO—Polyoxamer 338 from Uniqema), and 5 g of 1N. Prepare a solution containing hydrochloric acid solution. The solution is kept stirred at ambient temperature until the active ingredient is completely dissolved. 38 g of Nylon 12 (Orgasol 2002 D NAT COS 204-Arkema) is then dispersed in this solution, the dispersion is transferred to a round bottom flask and the water is evaporated on a rotary evaporator at 40 ° C. for 8 hours. Let After complete evaporation of the solvent, a powder consisting of nylon® particles is thus obtained, whose pores are filled with solid form of adenosine.

  Compressed powders containing these loaded particles are subsequently prepared in a manner well known to those skilled in the art by methods including loose bulk powder preparation, powder sieving at 250 μm, and powder compaction into a dish.

Product 2: Cream gel The composition of this product is indicated by the INCI name:
Phase A cyclomethicone 5%
Hydrogenated polyisobutene 5%
Xanthan gum 0.4%
Acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate 0.25%
Cross polymer preservative 1%

Phase B water 80.65%
Glycerin 5%
Dimethicone PEG-7 phosphate 2%
Carbomer 0.4%
Sodium hydroxide 0.3%

Manufacturing method:
An emulsion is prepared by homogenizing phase A and phase B at ambient temperature and introducing phase A into phase B with vigorous stirring.

  The resulting kit can be used in the following manner: Using sponge, apply product 1 every morning on the wrinkles on the eyes and forehead and massage 2 with the fingertips to apply product 2 on the entire face including the forehead To do.

Example 2: Evaluation of the effect of application of a two-stage action product A test evaluating the beauty and rapid effect of a two-stage action product prepared according to Example 1 was conducted on six people with wrinkles and fine wrinkles in the eye contour. Conducted for female volunteers.

The mode of application was as follows:
1) Using an applicator (sponge) made of foam, rub it compactly 4 times to pull out the powder and move it over the lower side of the eye and over the wrinkles of the eye, while smoothing the wrinkles and fine wrinkles around the eye And the powder was deposited by hiding the ring to cover. This operation is repeated at least four times, which is equivalent to giving on average 0.010 g of deposited product. Finally, the application is terminated by smoothing the powder entirely over the entire area of the eye contour described above. The white coating deposited at the completion of this operation visually limits the application area and facilitates subsequent application of the serum.
2) Next, apply serum equal to 100 μl deposit at the rate of the pump spray pressurizer to the underside and crease area of the eye where the compressed powder has previously been deposited. Mix quickly. The penetration of the product is brought about by a smooth movement until the edge effect is felt with the finger.

  The results obtained for each parameter evaluated are as follows:

-After application of wrinkles and wrinkles under the eyes and wrinkles / compressed powder, the wrinkles and wrinkles are observed to be emphasized, and if they are deeper, they are more visible.
-After application of layered serum, smoothing of wrinkles is observed, more visible for deep wrinkles and thin skin, with 3 out of 6 being very different from naked skin .

-Loose sagging As with wrinkles, the application of powder emphasizes sagging; the mechanical action of serous on the wrinkles tightens the skin like a face lift and reduces sagging.

  Overall, after continuous application of the compressed powder and serum according to the invention, the skin quickly slides and tightens. This effect is particularly visible with deep wrinkles and thin skin, which favors the concealer effect produced by the compressed powder and the tightening effect produced by the serum.

Claims (13)

(A) a first phase comprising a powder phase comprising porous particles comprising at least one anti-wrinkle active ingredient adsorbed and / or adsorbed to the porous particles and substantially lacking a solvent for said active ingredient Topical application of the composition to wrinkled areas; and (b) topical application to the facial skin comprising at least said areas of a second composition comprising a fatty phase and / or an aqueous phase containing a solvent for the active ingredient. A cosmetic method for the care of skin having wrinkles for the purpose of softening wrinkles, comprising the continuous process of:   The anti-wrinkle active ingredient is a skin peeling agent; an anti-glycation agent; a NO synthase inhibitor; a reagent that stimulates the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or prevents their degradation; fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes A reagent that stimulates the growth of keratinocytes; a reagent that stimulates or reduces the differentiation of keratinocytes; a muscle relaxant and / or a skin contractile agent; a reagent that counteracts free radicals; and a mixture thereof, The method of claim 1.   The anti-wrinkle active ingredient is adenosine and derivatives thereof; retinol and derivatives thereof such as retinyl palmitate; ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and derivatives thereof such as tocopheryl acetate; nicotinic acid And precursors thereof such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and precursors thereof such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C-glycoside compounds and derivatives thereof, in particular C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy Propane; plant extracts, especially krisumum extract, and olive leaf extract, and plant proteins and their hydrolysates, such as rice or soy protein hydrolysates; algae extracts, especially kombu extract Bacterial extracts; sapogenins, such as diosgenin, and Dioscorea extracts, particularly yam extracts containing it; α-hydroxy acids; β-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and 5- (n-octanoyl) salicylic acid; oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides; And acylated derivatives thereof, in particular {2- [acetyl (3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl) amino] -3-methylbutyrylamino} acetic acid; lycopene; manganese and magnesium salts, in particular gluconate; and mixtures thereof The method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that:   4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the particles have a volume average diameter of 10 to 50 [mu] m.   The method according to claim 4, wherein the particles have a volume average diameter of 20 to 50 μm. The method according to claim 1, wherein the particles have a specific surface area measured by the BET method of greater than 1 m ² / g.   The method according to claim 1, wherein the particles are made of polyamide.   The method according to claim 1, wherein the particles are made of silica.   9. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particles are present in the first composition in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight.   10. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anti-wrinkle active ingredient accounts for at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of particles present in the first composition. The particles containing the active ingredient are the following steps:
The dissolution of the encapsulated active ingredient in a volatile solvent to obtain an impregnation solution;
-Impregnation of the particles with said impregnation solution;
11. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it can be obtained according to an impregnation method comprising evaporation of the solution until a dry powder is obtained.   12. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first composition is present in the form of a compressed powder.   13. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the first composition is anhydrous.