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JP2013096027A - Stretch fabric - Google Patents

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JP2013096027A
JP2013096027A JP2011239000A JP2011239000A JP2013096027A JP 2013096027 A JP2013096027 A JP 2013096027A JP 2011239000 A JP2011239000 A JP 2011239000A JP 2011239000 A JP2011239000 A JP 2011239000A JP 2013096027 A JP2013096027 A JP 2013096027A
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region
stress
yarn
elongation
regions
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JP5929100B2 (en
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Keiko Kasahara
敬子 笠原
Takenori Sunayama
剛規 砂山
Naoki Oda
直規 小田
Yasuhiro Shibata
康裕 柴田
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Toray Industries Inc
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Toray Industries Inc
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Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a stretch fabric having high elongation and excelling in elongation recovery in which there are two or more kinds of belt-like regions different in stresses in a weft direction and there is no seam on a border between the regions.SOLUTION: Fabric using covered yarns as a warp yarn and a weft yarn, the covered yarns composed of a spandex fiber as a core yarn and a synthetic fiber as a sheath yarn, has elongation of 40% or more in at least any one of longitudinal and lateral directions and excellent elongation recovery, and includes a region A having a large stress in a weft direction adjoins a region B having a small stress in the weft direction and no seam on a border therebetween. Therefore it is possible to form clothes having both a motion followability function (stretchability) and a compression (fitting) function in some regions in one sheet of fabric without a seam using one sheet of fabric.

Description

本発明は、ヨコ糸方向の応力の異なる帯状の領域が2種以上あり領域どうしの境界に縫い目がないことを特徴とする高伸長で、伸長回復性に優れたストレッチ織物に関する。   The present invention relates to a stretch fabric having high elongation and excellent stretch recovery, characterized in that there are two or more types of belt-shaped regions having different stresses in the weft direction and there is no seam at the boundary between the regions.

近年動きやすさの要求によりストレッチのある織物が、スポーツ用途だけでなく一般用途のジャケットやスラックス、スカート、シャツなどに多様されている。しかし、インナーや肌に密着したスポーツウエアにおいては、高いストレッチ性と回復性が要求されるため伸び易い編物が多く使用され、織物は少ないのが現状である。しかし、編物はストレッチ性に優れるものの、目付があり生地が厚いという問題があるが、織物は軽量で生地が薄いため、競泳水着において近年多様されている。
また、最近のストレッチ性のあるスポーツウエアやスポーツインナー、水着およびサポート機能を持った衣料は、激しい動きに追従性する伸長率と回復性だけでなく身体の特定部分の締め付け力を高め、体型補正や筋肉の振動を抑制するコンプレッション機能が要求され、ストレッチ特性の異なる素材を組み合わせることにより、人体の特定部分の締め付けを強くして、ヒップアップ効果や、水中の流水抵抗軽減、運動機能アップ、姿勢を維持しやすくした機能を保持している。また、腕や足などの付け根の可動する関節部分のみ締め付け力を弱くして、より動きやすくするウエアが提案されている。
特許文献1では、軽量で、50%以上の高い伸長率と回復性に優れた織物が提案されているが、一枚の織物の中で異なる応力は備えていない。
従来、特許文献2に記載のような水着において、異なる伸長率や応力を備えるために、ストレッチ特性の異なる編地や織物を2種類以上組み合わせ、縫製や接着テープでつなぎあわせてきたが、2種のストレッチ素材の間に縫い目があることにより伸長率が低下し運動追随性が阻害されるという問題を有していた。また、肌側に縫い代があるため肌触りが悪く、縫製部分が皮膚に食い込み着脱後、皮膚に縫製部分の跡が残留したり、水着においては表側に凸が形成され流水抵抗が上がるという問題があった。
また、特許文献3ではストレッチ性に優れた伸縮性のある生地に伸縮性の低いポリウレタン製のパネルを接着させているが、パネルや樹脂の付着により、通気性が低下し着用時の蒸れが発生するという問題があった。
特許文献4では、弾性繊維の繊度を変更することにより異なる伸縮特性を持つ2種類の領域が隣接する編物が提案されているが、編物のみの記載であった。
In recent years, fabrics with stretch have been diversified not only for sports use but also for general use jackets, slacks, skirts, shirts, etc. due to the demand for mobility. However, sportswear that is in close contact with the inner or skin is required to have high stretchability and recoverability, so that many knitted fabrics that are easy to stretch are used and the number of fabrics is small. However, although the knitted fabric is excellent in stretchability, there is a problem that the fabric is thick and the fabric is thick. However, since the woven fabric is lightweight and the fabric is thin, it has been diversified in swimming swimsuits in recent years.
In addition, recent sportswear and sports innerwear, swimwear and clothing with support functions increase not only the stretch rate and recoverability that can follow intense movements, but also the tightening power of specific parts of the body, and body correction A compression function that suppresses vibrations of muscles and muscles is required, and by combining materials with different stretch characteristics, tightening of specific parts of the human body is strengthened, improving hip-up effect, reducing running water resistance in water, improving exercise function, posture The functions that make it easier to maintain are retained. In addition, wear has been proposed in which the tightening force is weakened only at joints where the bases such as arms and legs are movable to make the movement easier.
Patent Document 1 proposes a lightweight fabric having a high elongation rate of 50% or more and excellent recoverability, but does not have different stresses in one fabric.
Conventionally, in swimsuits as described in Patent Document 2, two or more types of knitted fabrics and fabrics having different stretch characteristics have been combined and combined with sewing or adhesive tape in order to provide different elongation rates and stresses. There is a problem in that the stretch rate is reduced due to the presence of seams between the stretch materials, and the movement following ability is hindered. In addition, there is a problem that the seam allowance on the skin side is not good, and the sewing part bites into the skin, and after the attachment and detachment, the mark of the sewing part remains on the skin. It was.
Also, in Patent Document 3, a polyurethane panel with low stretchability is bonded to a stretchable fabric with excellent stretchability, but due to adhesion of the panel and resin, breathability is reduced and stuffiness occurs when worn There was a problem to do.
Patent Document 4 proposes a knitted fabric in which two types of regions having different stretch characteristics are changed by changing the fineness of the elastic fiber, but it is only a description of the knitted fabric.

特開2010-138496JP2010-138496 特開2011-137269JP2011-137269 特開2008-150767JP2008-150767 実開平5-193095-19309

本発明は、かかる従来技術の課題に鑑み、高伸長で伸長回復性に優れ、肌触りにも優れたストレッチ織物を提供せんとするものである。   In view of the problems of the prior art, the present invention is intended to provide a stretch fabric having high elongation, excellent stretch recovery, and excellent touch.

本発明は鋭意検討の結果、下記構成により達成できる事を見出した。
(1)芯糸にスパンデックス繊維、鞘糸に合成繊維を用いた被覆糸をタテ糸およびヨコ糸に用いた織物において、ヨコ糸方向の30%伸長時の応力が異なる帯状の領域が少なくとも2種存在し、該応力が異なる領域どうしの境界部分に縫い目がなく、タテ方向および/またはヨコ方向の伸長率が40%以上、タテ方向および/またはヨコ方向の伸長回復率が75%以上であることを特徴とするストレッチ織物。
(2)該応力が異なる領域が、応力が大なる領域Aと応力が小なる領域Bとからなり、該領域Aと該領域Bとが隣接して交互に存在する上記(1)記載のストレッチ織物。
(3)該応力が異なる領域が、応力が大なる領域Aと応力が小なる領域Bと該領域Bの応力を越え、該領域Aの応力未満の応力を有する領域Cとからなり、それぞれの領域どうしの境界部分に縫い目がないことを特徴とする上記(1)に記載のストレッチ織物。
(4) 応力が異なる帯状の領域における最大応力と最小応力の差として、最大応力が、最小応力の5%以上、50%以下であることを特徴とする上記1〜3のいずれかに記載のストレッチ織物。
As a result of intensive studies, it has been found that the present invention can be achieved by the following configuration.
(1) At least two types of belt-like regions with different stresses when stretched 30% in the weft direction in a woven fabric using spandex fibers as the core yarn and synthetic yarns for the sheath yarn as the warp and weft yarns There is no seam at the boundary between areas where the stresses are different, the vertical and / or horizontal elongation rate is 40% or more, and the vertical and / or horizontal elongation recovery rate is 75% or more. Stretch fabric characterized by
(2) The stretch according to the above (1), wherein the regions having different stresses are composed of a region A where the stress is large and a region B where the stress is small, and the region A and the region B are alternately adjacent to each other. fabric.
(3) A region where the stress is different is composed of a region A where the stress is large, a region B where the stress is small, and a region C which exceeds the stress of the region B and has a stress less than the stress of the region A. The stretch fabric according to (1) above, wherein there is no seam at the boundary between the regions.
(4) The difference between the maximum stress and the minimum stress in the band-like regions having different stresses, wherein the maximum stress is 5% or more and 50% or less of the minimum stress, Stretch fabric.

(5)該ストレッチ織物に表面平滑化加工および/または撥水加工が施されていることを特徴とする上記(1)から(4)のいずれかに記載のストレッチ織物。
(6)上記(1)から(5)のいずれかに記載の織物を少なくともその一部に用いたことを特徴とする衣料。
(7)上記(1)から(5)のいずれかに記載の織物を少なくともその一部に用いたことを特徴とする水着。
(5) The stretch fabric according to any one of (1) to (4) above, wherein the stretch fabric is subjected to a surface smoothing process and / or a water repellent process.
(6) A garment characterized by using the woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (5) as at least a part thereof.
(7) A swimsuit characterized in that the woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (5) is used for at least a part thereof.

本発明のヨコ糸方向の応力の異なる帯状の領域が2種以上あり領域どうしの境界に縫い目がない高伸長で伸長回復性に優れたストレッチ織物により、体型補正機能を持つインナーや、コンプレッション機能を持つ運動効果を高めたスポーツウエア、流水抵抗の少ない水着やサポート機能を持つ衣料に好適に使用されるストレッチ織物を提供することができる。   There are two or more belt-shaped areas with different stresses in the weft direction of the present invention, and there is no seam at the boundary between the areas. It is possible to provide a stretch fabric that is suitably used for sportswear with enhanced exercise effects, swimwear with low running water resistance, and clothing with a support function.

本発明の領域配置の一態様を示す。An embodiment of the region arrangement of the present invention is shown. 本発明の領域配置の一態様を示す。An embodiment of the region arrangement of the present invention is shown. 本発明の領域配置の一態様を示す。An embodiment of the region arrangement of the present invention is shown. 本発明の領域配置の一態様を示す。An embodiment of the region arrangement of the present invention is shown. 本発明の領域配置の一態様を示す。An embodiment of the region arrangement of the present invention is shown. 本発明の領域配置の一態様を示す。An embodiment of the region arrangement of the present invention is shown.

以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。
本発明は、芯糸にスパンデックス繊維、鞘糸に合成繊維を用いた被覆糸をタテ糸およびヨコ糸に用いたストレッチ織物で、ヨコ糸方向の応力が大なる低伸長領域とヨコ糸方向の応力が小なる高伸長領域が帯状に2種類以上隣接し、優れた伸長回復性能を有することを特徴とする。ストレッチ織物のヨコ糸方向の帯状に応力が強い領域と弱い領域を形成するには、ヨコ糸に使用するスパンデックス繊維のタイプや繊度を変更しても良いし、合成繊維の種類、繊度、断面形状、フィラメント数、生糸、加工糸などを変更しても良い。また、ヨコ糸の打ち込み密度を変更してもよい。さらに、平織、綾織、朱子織、ヨコ二重織、それらの変化組織などの組織を変更しても良いし、それら各々単独、またはそれらの組み合わせにより、ヨコ糸方向に応力の異なる帯状の領域を得ることができる。
30%伸長時の応力が異なる帯状の領域における最大応力と最小応力の差として、最大応力が、最小応力の5%以上であることがその差を好適に体感することができ好ましい。また、応力差が50%を越えると織物の加工時、織物の幅の変動が大きく、熱セット時ピンがセットされなくなったり、熱セットが不十分で寸法安定性に劣る場合がある。また、応力差が50%以上になるとシワ、斜行、パッカリングが発生し、加工工程通過性が悪くなり品位が低下する。そのため、応力差は、5%以上、50%以下が好ましい。応力の小なる領域Bと、応力の大なる領域Aとの間に、応力の小なる領域Bの応力を越え、応力の大なる領域Aの応力未満の応力を有する領域Cを形成することにより、領域Aと領域Bの応力差を大きくすることが可能になる。また、幅の変動やシワ、斜行、パッカリングの発生が少なくなり、伸長回復性に優れ、引き伸ばされて着用した時、表面の凹凸が少なく流水抵抗の増大を防ぐことが可能になる。
ヨコ糸方向の応力が大なる低伸長の領域Aとヨコ糸方向の応力が小なる高伸長の領域Bの帯状の幅は特に限定するものではないが、その構成について、図で説明する。
図1では、ベース生地を応力の大なる領域Aと隣接して、応力の小なる領域Bが形成されている。領域Aが締め付けの必要な腰部などに配置されていることが好ましい。
図2、図3、図5は、ベース生地が応力の小なる領域Bであり、その間に応力の大なる領域Aが帯状に形成され、領域Aが、ウエスト部や尻部、大腿部、上腕部など締め付け力が必要な個所に配置されていることが好ましい。
図4、図6は、ベース生地が応力の大なる領域Aであり、その間に応力の小なる領域Bが帯状に形成され、領域Bが、膝、肘、鼠径部など締め付けが不要な個所に配置されていることが好ましい。
図5や図6にある領域Cは領域Aと領域Bの間にあり、その応力も領域Bの応力を越え、領域Aの応力未満である。領域Cを形成することにより、領域Aと領域Bの応力差を大きくすることができ、シワ、斜行、パッカリングなどを軽減し、伸長回復性を高める効果がある。領域Cの幅は特に限定されるものではないが、ベース生地の領域の幅よりも小さい方が好ましい。
領域A、領域Bおよび領域Cを形成するヨコ糸は、各領域において一種類の被覆糸が用いられていてもよいし、各領域において二種、三種の被覆糸がそれぞれ組み合わされて用いられていてもよい。
織物は染色加工後の長さが通常約50mに設定されていることから、それぞれの領域の組み合わせを1ピッチとして何回か繰り返すことが可能である。
また、縫製時、領域Aと領域Bの境目について、明確に見分けが付くことが重要である。そのために、被覆糸の合成繊維の種類や繊度を変更するか、組織を変更することが好ましく、合成繊維の種類を変えて染色時に異なるカラーで染色するとより明確になり好ましい。また、1リピートごとに目印を付けるために、耳組織を変更することも好ましい。
本発明において、織物に使用する糸は、芯糸にスパンデックス繊維、鞘糸に合成繊維を用いた被覆糸であることが重要である。スパンデックス糸と合成繊維による被覆糸は、伸長率と伸長回復性に優れ、密着したインナーや水着、スポーツウエアに必要な強度も合わせ持っている。芯にスパンデックス糸、鞘に合成繊維を用いた被覆糸は、カバーリング機を用いて得られるカバーリング糸であっても良いし、引きそろえ後、合撚した糸であっても良い。また、スパンデックス糸と合成繊維をエアー加工機にて、タスランノズルや交絡ノズルを用いて、混繊交絡した複合繊維であっても良い。カバーリング糸の方が芯のスパンデックス糸の被覆性がよくより好ましい。カバーリングの方式は芯糸に一方向の糸をカバーリングするシングルカバーリングと、芯糸に、右方向と左方向の糸がカバーされるダブルカバーリングが公知の方法として知られているが、本発明では目付を低減する場合は、シングルカバーリングが好ましい。またカバーリングの際、スパンデックス繊維に適度なドラフトを掛けて行われるが、高いストレッチ織物とするためにはそのドラフト率は3倍以上、より好ましくは3.5倍以上、4倍以下にすることが好ましい。ドラフト率が3倍未満では高ストレッチ織物にすることが不十分となる場合があり、逆に4倍を越えると被覆糸作製時にスパンデックス繊維の糸切れ等が発生し工程通過性が悪化する傾向にある。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The present invention relates to a stretch fabric using spandex fibers as core yarns and synthetic yarns as sheath yarns for warp yarns and weft yarns, a low elongation region where stress in the weft direction is large, and stresses in the weft direction. Two or more types of high elongation regions where the size is small are adjacent to each other in a band shape, and have excellent stretch recovery performance. To form strong and weak areas in the weft direction of stretch fabric, you can change the type and fineness of the spandex fiber used for the weft, and the type, fineness, and cross-sectional shape of the synthetic fiber. The number of filaments, raw yarn, processed yarn, etc. may be changed. Moreover, the driving density of the weft yarn may be changed. Furthermore, it is possible to change the structure such as plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, weft double weave, and their changed structure, and by each of them alone or in combination, a band-like region having different stress in the weft direction can be formed. Can be obtained.
As the difference between the maximum stress and the minimum stress in the band-like regions having different stresses at the time of 30% elongation, it is preferable that the maximum stress is 5% or more of the minimum stress so that the difference can be suitably experienced. On the other hand, if the stress difference exceeds 50%, the width of the woven fabric may vary greatly during the processing of the woven fabric, and the pin may not be set during heat setting, or the dimensional stability may be poor due to insufficient heat setting. In addition, when the stress difference is 50% or more, wrinkles, skewing, and puckering occur, and the machining process passability deteriorates and the quality deteriorates. Therefore, the stress difference is preferably 5% or more and 50% or less. By forming a region C that exceeds the stress of the region B with low stress and has the stress below the stress of the region A with high stress between the region B with low stress and the region A with high stress. The stress difference between the region A and the region B can be increased. In addition, the occurrence of width fluctuations, wrinkles, skewing, and puckering is reduced, and the stretch recovery property is excellent. When stretched and worn, there is little surface irregularity and it is possible to prevent an increase in running resistance.
The band-like widths of the low-elongation region A in which the stress in the weft direction is large and the high-elongation region B in which the stress in the weft direction is small are not particularly limited.
In FIG. 1, a region B having a low stress is formed adjacent to the region A having a high stress in the base fabric. It is preferable that the region A is disposed on the waist or the like that needs to be tightened.
2, 3, and 5, the base fabric is a region B where the stress is small, and a region A where the stress is large is formed in a band shape, and the region A includes a waist part, a hip part, a thigh part, It is preferable that it is arranged at a place where a tightening force is required, such as the upper arm.
4 and 6, the base fabric is a region A where the stress is large, and a region B where the stress is small is formed in a band shape, and the region B is located at a place where tightening is not required, such as the knee, elbow, and groin. It is preferable that they are arranged.
A region C in FIGS. 5 and 6 is between the region A and the region B, and the stress exceeds the stress in the region B and is less than the stress in the region A. By forming the region C, the stress difference between the region A and the region B can be increased, and the effects of reducing wrinkles, skewing, puckering, etc., and improving the stretch recovery property are obtained. The width of the region C is not particularly limited, but is preferably smaller than the width of the region of the base fabric.
As for the weft yarn forming the region A, the region B, and the region C, one type of covering yarn may be used in each region, or two or three types of covering yarns may be used in combination in each region. May be.
Since the woven fabric is usually set to a length of about 50 m after dyeing, it is possible to repeat the combination of each region several times with one pitch.
In addition, it is important that the boundary between the region A and the region B can be clearly distinguished at the time of sewing. Therefore, it is preferable to change the type and fineness of the synthetic fiber of the coated yarn or to change the structure, and it is preferable to change the type of the synthetic fiber and dye it with a different color at the time of dyeing. It is also preferable to change the ear tissue in order to mark each repeat.
In the present invention, it is important that the yarn used for the woven fabric is a coated yarn using spandex fibers as the core yarn and synthetic fibers as the sheath yarn. Spandex yarns and synthetic yarn coated yarns have excellent elongation and recovery, and have the strength required for tight innerwear, swimwear and sportswear. The covering yarn using the spandex yarn for the core and the synthetic fiber for the sheath may be a covering yarn obtained by using a covering machine, or may be a twisted yarn after alignment. Alternatively, it may be a composite fiber in which spandex yarn and synthetic fiber are mixed and entangled with an air processing machine using a taslan nozzle or an entanglement nozzle. Covering yarns are more preferred because they have better coverage of the core spandex yarns. As for the method of the cover ring, a single cover ring that covers the yarn in one direction to the core yarn and a double cover ring in which the right and left yarns are covered by the core yarn are known as known methods, In the present invention, when covering weight is reduced, single covering is preferable. In covering, the spandex fiber is subjected to an appropriate draft. In order to obtain a high stretch fabric, the draft ratio should be 3 times or more, more preferably 3.5 times or more and 4 times or less. Is preferred. If the draft rate is less than 3 times, it may be insufficient to make a high stretch woven fabric. Conversely, if the draft rate exceeds 4 times, the thread breakage of spandex fibers and the like tends to be deteriorated during the production of the coated yarn. is there.

芯糸のスパンデックス繊維の太さは、22デシテックス以上156デシテックス以下が好ましい。ヨコ方向の30%伸長時の応力が小なる領域Bは伸びやすく、運動追随性が求められる部分に使用されるのに適し、ヨコ方向の30%伸長時の応力が大なる領域Aは伸びにくく、締め付け力が求められる部分に使用されるのに適している。ストレッチ織物の伸長時の応力はスパンデックス繊維の太さのみで決まるものではないが、スパンデックス繊維の太さにおいて、応力が大なる領域Aのスパンデックス繊維の繊度が、応力が小なる領域Bのスパンデッスク繊維の繊度よりも同じか太いことが好ましい。スパンデックス繊維の繊度が22デシテックス未満であると高いストレッチ性が得られにくく、スパンデックス繊維が156デシテックスを超えると応力は高いものの、目付が重くなる。
織物の目付としては軽量化の点で、250g/m以下とすることが好ましい。また使用するスパンデックス糸は公知のものでよく、例えば旭化成繊維株式会社の“ロイカ”や東レ・オペロンテックス株式会社の“ライクラ”等を使用すればよい。スパンデクス繊維の種類により、応力が異なることから、適宜使用領域により選択することが好ましい。ただし水着の場合は、プールでの使用が前提となるため、好ましくは“ロイカSP”や“ライクラ−176B”、“ライクラ−254B”、“ライクラ−909B”等耐塩素性に優れたスパンデックス繊維を用いることが好ましい。
鞘糸には周知の合成繊維を用いればよい。合成繊維には各種あるが、ポリアミド系繊維や、ポリエステル系繊維を用いることが、強度や加工性の面から好ましい。ポリアミド系繊維にも各種あるが、強度面およびスパンデックス混織物の加工性の面からナイロン6、ナイロン66、ナイロン610を用いることが好ましい。
またポリエステル系繊維にはポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート等いずれを使用しても良いが、良好な熱セット性を求めるのであればポリエチレンテレフタレート、高伸度を求めるのであればポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレートを選択する等適宜選択することが出来る。ただし、これら繊維は一般に分散染料を用いて染められるが、分散染料はポリウレタン繊維に汚染してしまうため、最終製品に置いて色移り等堅牢度不良を発生させることがある。そのためカチオン染料で染色することの出来るカチオン可染ポリエステル系繊維を用いることが好ましい。ナイロンとの交織品の場合、カチオン可染ポリエステル系繊維の中でも100℃以下で染色可能な常圧カチオン可染ポリエステルがより好ましい。
さらに、水着用途では、ポリプロピレン繊維を用いることも好ましい。ポリプロピレン繊維は、疎水性のため、布帛での撥水性能が向上する。ただし、染まりにくいという欠点があるため、原着糸を用いることが、より好ましい。
鞘糸の合成繊維の繊度は、17デシテックス以上、165デシテックス以下であることが軽量化を図る上で、特に目付250g/m以下とすることができ好ましい。ストレッチ織物の伸長時の応力は合成繊維の太さのみで決まるものではないが、該ストレッチ織物のヨコ糸方向の伸長時の応力が大なる領域Aの合成繊維の繊度が、応力が小なる領域Bの合成繊維の繊度よりも同じか大きいことが好ましい。
鞘糸に用いる合成繊維の繊維形態および断面形状には特に制限は無いが、高いストレッチ織物とするためには鞘糸となる合成繊維に周知の手法により仮撚加工を施し、捲縮を付与しておくことが好ましい。一般にスパンデックス混織物は、芯糸となるスパンデックスの伸度不足ではなく、鞘糸の糸長が不足するためにストレッチ性に制限が出ることが多く、鞘糸に捲縮を与えることで、捲縮を有しない生糸使い品よりもストレッチ率を高くすることが出来る。仮撚加工の方法にはピンタイプ、フリクションタイプ、ベルトタイプ等種々存在するが、本発明においてはその方法に特に限定はない。ただし総繊度が細い合成繊維を用いる場合は、ピンタイプを用いることが好ましく、フリクションを用いる場合はディスク枚数を増やす等総繊度の細い合成繊維に対応した仮撚を施すことが好ましい。これらの手法により得られた芯スパンデックス、鞘合成繊維による被覆糸を用いた織物は、タテ、ヨコそれぞれの少なくとも一方の伸長率が40%以上となるよう織物設計、染色加工を行う必要がある。
タテ方向の伸長率を40%以上にするためには、織機ヨコ入れ密度に対する仕上ヨコ密度を調整することにより、タテ収縮率を60%以上にすることが好ましい。ヨコ方向の伸長率を40%以上にするためには、筬入幅に対する仕上幅を調整することにより、ヨコ収縮率を65%以上とすることが好ましい。タテ収縮率、ヨコ収縮率を高くするためには、生機密度を通常設計よりも低くしなければならないが、生機密度を低くし過ぎると、続く染色加工にて、目ズレやシワ等の問題が発生し易くなるため、前述の収縮率を達成し、かつ問題が発生しない範囲に、生機密度を設定することが好ましい。タテの伸長率を40%以上にするためには、通常の設計よりも織機のヨコ入れ本数を少なくし、仕上がりのヨコ密度を通常の設計よりも多くするとタテ収縮率が高くなり、タテの伸長率を40%以上にすることができる。以上のことから、領域Aに隣接して領域Bを形成する場合、領域Bの合成繊維やライクラの繊度を細くしても、生機の隙間が大きく、加工収縮が多くなり、かえって密度がふえる可能性がある。
ヨコの伸長率を40%以上にするために、通常の設計よりも織機上のタテ糸本数を少なくし、仕上がり幅を通常の設計よりも小さくし、タテ密度を多くするとヨコの収縮率が高くなり40%以上にすることができる。
製織にはポリウレタン繊維をヨコ糸として使用するため、ヨコ入れピーク張力の高いウォータージェットルーム(WJL)は好ましくなく、エアージェットルーム(AJL)もしくはレピアルームを使用することが好ましい。タテ収縮率、ヨコ収縮率の定義は以下のとおりである。
The thickness of the spandex fiber of the core yarn is preferably 22 dtex or more and 156 dtex or less. The region B where the stress at 30% elongation in the horizontal direction is small is easy to stretch and is suitable for use in a portion where movement followability is required, and the region A where the stress at 30% elongation in the horizontal direction is large is difficult to stretch. Suitable for use in parts where tightening force is required. The stress at the time of stretching of the stretch fabric is not determined only by the thickness of the spandex fiber, but the spandex fiber in the region B where the stress is large in the thickness of the spandex fiber is the spandex fiber in the region B where the stress is small. The fineness is preferably the same or thicker than the fineness. When the spandex fiber has a fineness of less than 22 dtex, high stretchability is difficult to obtain, and when the spandex fiber exceeds 156 dtex, the stress is high but the basis weight becomes heavy.
The fabric weight is preferably 250 g / m 2 or less in terms of weight reduction. The spandex yarn used may be a known one, such as “Roika” from Asahi Kasei Fiber Co., Ltd. or “Lycra” from Toray Operontex Co., Ltd. Since the stress varies depending on the type of spandex fiber, it is preferable to select an appropriate use region. However, in the case of swimsuits, since it is premised on use in a pool, it is preferable to use spandex fibers with excellent chlorine resistance such as “Roika SP”, “Lycra-176B”, “Lycra-254B”, “Lycra-909B”. It is preferable to use it.
A well-known synthetic fiber may be used for the sheath yarn. Although there are various synthetic fibers, it is preferable to use polyamide fibers or polyester fibers from the viewpoint of strength and workability. Although there are various types of polyamide-based fibers, nylon 6, nylon 66, and nylon 610 are preferably used from the viewpoint of strength and processability of spandex mixed fabric.
Polyester fiber may be any of polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, etc., but polyethylene terephthalate is required for good heat setting properties, and polybutylene is required for high elongation. For example, terephthalate or polytrimethylene terephthalate can be selected as appropriate. However, although these fibers are generally dyed with disperse dyes, the disperse dyes contaminate the polyurethane fibers, which may cause poor color fastness such as color transfer in the final product. Therefore, it is preferable to use a cationic dyeable polyester fiber that can be dyed with a cationic dye. In the case of an unwoven product with nylon, an atmospheric pressure cationic dyeable polyester that can be dyed at 100 ° C. or lower is more preferable among the cationic dyeable polyester fibers.
Furthermore, it is also preferable to use polypropylene fibers for swimsuit applications. Since the polypropylene fiber is hydrophobic, the water repellency of the fabric is improved. However, it is more preferable to use the original yarn because it has a drawback that it is difficult to dye.
The fineness of the synthetic fiber of the sheath yarn is preferably 17 dtex or more and 165 dtex or less, in order to reduce the weight, and in particular, the basis weight is preferably 250 g / m 2 or less. The stress at the time of stretching of the stretch fabric is not determined only by the thickness of the synthetic fiber, but the region where the stress of the synthetic fabric in the region A where the stress at the time of stretching in the weft direction of the stretch fabric is large is the region where the stress is small. It is preferable that it is the same or larger than the fineness of the synthetic fiber of B.
There are no particular restrictions on the fiber form and cross-sectional shape of the synthetic fiber used for the sheath yarn, but in order to make a high stretch fabric, false twisting is applied to the synthetic fiber used as the sheath yarn by a well-known method to impart crimps. It is preferable to keep it. In general, spandex blend fabrics are not limited in the degree of elongation of the spandex used as the core yarn, but the length of the sheath yarn is often insufficient, so the stretchability is often limited. The stretch rate can be made higher than that of raw silk products that do not have any. There are various types of false twisting methods such as pin type, friction type, and belt type, but the method is not particularly limited in the present invention. However, when using synthetic fibers with a small total fineness, it is preferable to use a pin type, and when using friction, it is preferable to apply false twist corresponding to the synthetic fibers with a small total fineness, such as increasing the number of disks. The fabric using the core spandex and the sheath yarn made of the sheath synthetic fiber obtained by these methods needs to be designed and dyed so that the elongation ratio of at least one of warp and width is 40% or more.
In order to make the elongation rate in the vertical direction 40% or more, it is preferable to adjust the vertical shrinkage rate to 60% or more by adjusting the finish horizontal density with respect to the loom filling density. In order to make the elongation rate in the horizontal direction 40% or more, it is preferable that the horizontal shrinkage rate is 65% or more by adjusting the finishing width with respect to the insertion width. In order to increase the vertical shrinkage rate and horizontal shrinkage rate, the green machine density must be lower than the normal design. However, if the green machine density is too low, problems such as misalignment and wrinkles will occur in the subsequent dyeing process. Since it becomes easy to generate | occur | produce, it is preferable to set the green machine density in the range which achieves the above-mentioned shrinkage rate and does not generate a problem. In order to increase the warp elongation ratio to 40% or more, if the number of weaving looms in the loom is less than the normal design, and the finished weft density is higher than the normal design, the warp shrinkage will increase and the warp elongation will increase. The rate can be 40% or more. From the above, when forming the region B adjacent to the region A, even if the fineness of the synthetic fiber or lycra of the region B is reduced, the gap between the living machines is increased, the processing shrinkage is increased, and the density can be increased. There is sex.
To increase the horizontal stretch rate to 40% or more, the number of warp yarns on the loom is smaller than the normal design, the finished width is smaller than the normal design, and the vertical density increases, the horizontal shrinkage rate increases. It can be made 40% or more.
Since weaving uses polyurethane fibers as weft yarns, water jet loom (WJL) with high weft peak tension is not preferred, and air jet loom (AJL) or rapier loom is preferred. The definitions of the vertical contraction rate and the horizontal contraction rate are as follows.

タテ収縮率(%)=(仕上ヨコ密度−織機ヨコ入れ本数)÷織機ヨコ入れ本数×100
ヨコ収縮率(%)=(筬入幅−仕上幅)÷仕上幅×100
ヨコ方向に帯状の異なる応力の領域を得るために、ヨコ糸の打ち込み本数を変更することも好ましい。
染色仕上においては既存の2WAY織物もしくは編物を加工する公知のプロセスを利用することが出来る。具体的プロセスは拡布精練/リラックス、中間セット、染色、仕上げセットや生機セット、液流精練/リラックス、染色、仕上げセット等目的とする織物のストレッチ率や表面品位の状態により適宜選択すればよい。
Vertical shrinkage (%) = (finishing horizontal density-number of weaving looms) ÷ number of weaving wefts x 100
Horizontal shrinkage rate (%) = (insertion width-finishing width) ÷ finishing width x 100
It is also preferable to change the number of weaving yarns in order to obtain different regions of stress in a strip shape in the weft direction.
In the dyeing finish, a known process for processing an existing 2WAY fabric or knitted fabric can be used. The specific process may be appropriately selected depending on the stretch ratio of the target fabric and the surface quality, such as spreading scouring / relaxation, intermediate set, dyeing, finishing set and ready machine set, liquid scouring / relaxing, dyeing, finishing set.

さらに競泳水着用途には、仕上げ加工においては撥水加工を生地に施すことが好ましい。水着の生地への保水率が高いと着用時の負荷が高くなり、撥水加工を施すことでその負荷を軽減することが出来る。撥水加工はストレッチ織物全面に施しても良いが、水抜け性を加味し、部分的に撥水加工を施しても良い。
また水に対する生地の表面抵抗を下げ、かつ保水率を下げるためにはストレッチ織物にカレンダー加工のような表面を平滑化処理することが好ましい。加工機としては通常の加熱ロールとペーパーロール、またはコットンロールよりなるカレンダー加工機、板状物を用いたカレンダー加工機を用いればよい。なお加熱金属ロールを用いる場合は鏡面ロールであることが好ましい。またその他手法として生地を縫製品にするため裁断後に熱プレスを行う事でも平滑化する事が出来る。なお、競泳水着用の織物として用いる場合、特開2003-328212等に記載されている様にカレンダー加工条件は、織物の幅100〜220cmに対して、線圧で1〜60t程度とし、ロール温度は160〜250℃の範囲から、ナイロン6織物、ナイロン66織物、ナイロン610織物、ポリエステル織物など素材により適宜選択することが好ましい。
Furthermore, for swimming swimsuits, it is preferable that the fabric is subjected to a water-repellent finish in the finishing process. If the water retention rate of the swimsuit fabric is high, the load at the time of wearing becomes high, and the load can be reduced by applying a water repellent finish. Although the water repellent finish may be applied to the entire stretch fabric, it may be partially subjected to water repellent finish in consideration of water drainage.
Further, in order to reduce the surface resistance of the fabric to water and to reduce the water retention rate, it is preferable to smooth the surface of the stretch woven fabric by calendering. As a processing machine, an ordinary heating roll and paper roll, or a calendar processing machine using a cotton roll, or a calendar processing machine using a plate-like material may be used. In addition, when using a heating metal roll, it is preferable that it is a mirror surface roll. As another technique, the fabric can be made into a sewn product, and smoothing can also be performed by hot pressing after cutting. In addition, when used as a fabric for swimming wear, the calendering conditions are about 1 to 60 t in linear pressure with respect to the width of the fabric of 100 to 220 cm, as described in JP2003-328212, and the roll temperature. Is preferably selected from the range of 160 to 250 ° C. according to materials such as nylon 6 woven fabric, nylon 66 woven fabric, nylon 610 woven fabric, and polyester woven fabric.

これら構成で得られたストレッチ織物はタテ、ヨコ少なくともいずれかの伸長率が40%以上であり、さらに、タテ、ヨコ両方向の伸長率が40%以上であることがより好ましい。
繊維機械学会誌36巻6号(1983)「皮膚伸びと衣服伸び」原田隆司他著によると動作による皮膚の伸びは女性の場合、後肘部(肘頭部)にて垂直方向で62%、腋窩部にて垂直方向66%であり、皮膚に密着する水着で運動追随性を求める場合は、皮膚伸びと同等の伸長率を応力の小なる領域Bにおいて、少なくともタテヨコいずれか一方向は保有することが好ましい。
また、競泳水着は人体より約30%から40%近く小さいパターンで作製されることから、皮膚伸び+30%の伸長率がより好ましい。皮膚伸びが必要な部分に、伸びの大きい領域Bを配置し、皮膚伸びが小さい部分に伸びの小さい領域Aを使用することが好ましい。皮膚伸びが小さい部分であっても着脱を考慮するとタテヨコいずれかの伸長率が40%以上あることが好ましい。なおここで伸長率はJIS L1096A法(カットストリップ法)にて測定された値を示す。
The stretch fabric obtained in these configurations has an elongation ratio of at least one of the vertical and horizontal directions of 40% or more, and more preferably has an elongation ratio of 40% or more in both the vertical and horizontal directions.
According to Textile Society of Japan, Vol. 36, No. 6 (1983) “Skin Elongation and Clothes Elongation” by Takashi Harada et al., The elongation of the skin due to movement is 62% in the vertical direction at the back elbow (elbow head) in women. When it is 66% in the vertical direction at the axilla, and the movement followability is determined with a swimsuit that is in close contact with the skin, at least one of the vertical and horizontal directions is maintained in the region B where the stress is small in the region B where the stress is small. It is preferable.
Moreover, since the swimsuit is produced with a pattern that is approximately 30% to 40% smaller than the human body, an elongation rate of skin elongation + 30% is more preferable. It is preferable to arrange a region B having a large elongation in a portion where the skin elongation is necessary and to use a region A having a small elongation in a portion where the skin elongation is small. Even if the skin elongation is small, it is preferable that the elongation ratio of any one of the vertical and horizontal widths is 40% or more in consideration of attachment / detachment. Here, the elongation rate is a value measured by the JIS L1096A method (cut strip method).

また人体にゆとりなく着用される水着、スポーツウエア、スポーツアンダーウエアは人体よりも小さく作製されており、競泳水着の場合30〜40%小さいパターンで作製されている。その30%伸長する時の応力が締め付ける力になり、着圧として働く。締め付けが必要な人体の部分の着圧が大きいほど人体の筋肉を押さえつけ体積が小さくなり、水着の場合、水中での抵抗が小さくなる。スパンデックス繊維や合成繊維の繊度、フィラメント数、ドラフト数、撚り係数、生機の密度や仕上密度などの組み合わせを適宜選択することにより可能である。
また、運動により伸長されたウエアの追随性が必要で、伸ばされた後に身体の動きに沿って瞬時に回復することが必要である。また、ヨコ糸方向に異なる領域を2種類以上形成する場合、応力が異なることから伸長回復性に劣る傾向が認められることから、本発明のストレッチ織物はタテ方向および/またはヨコ方向の伸長回復率が75%以上であることが好ましい。特に競泳水着等肌に密着し、かつ激しい動きを有する競技に使用される場合、伸長回復率は80%以上あることがより好ましい。
本発明のストレッチ織物は、人体に密着した衣料や、コンプレッションを必要とする衣料として好ましく用いられ、具体的には水着、スケートウエア、スキーウエア、ジャンプスーツ、レオタード、サッカーウエア、野球ユニフォーム、登山用ウエアなどの各種スポーツウエアや、スポーツインナー、サポート機能を持つ肌着などの衣料やサポーターを好ましい用途として例示することができる。
In addition, swimwear, sportswear, and sports underwear that are worn comfortably on the human body are made smaller than the human body, and in the case of competitive swimsuits, they are made with patterns that are 30 to 40% smaller. The stress at the time of 30% elongation becomes the tightening force, which acts as a pressure. The greater the pressure applied to the part of the human body that needs to be tightened, the smaller the volume of the human body that is pressed against the muscles of the human body. This is possible by appropriately selecting a combination of the fineness, the number of filaments, the number of drafts, the twisting factor, the density of the green machine, the finishing density, and the like of the spandex fiber and the synthetic fiber.
In addition, it is necessary to follow the stretched wear by exercise, and it is necessary to recover instantly along with the movement of the body after being stretched. In addition, when two or more types of regions different in the weft direction are formed, since the stress is different and a tendency to be inferior in stretch recovery is recognized, the stretch fabric of the present invention has a stretch recovery rate in the warp direction and / or the warp direction. Is preferably 75% or more. In particular, when used in competitions such as swimming swimsuits that are in close contact with the skin and have vigorous movements, the elongation recovery rate is more preferably 80% or more.
The stretch fabric of the present invention is preferably used as clothing that is in close contact with the human body or clothing that requires compression. Specifically, swimwear, skate wear, ski wear, jumpsuit, leotard, soccer wear, baseball uniform, mountain climbing Various sportswear such as clothing, sports innerwear, and clothing and supporters such as underwear having a support function can be exemplified as preferable applications.

以下、実施例により本発明を詳細に説明するが、本発明はこれらに限定されるものではない。   EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates this invention in detail, this invention is not limited to these.

実施例中の評価は次の方法で実施した。
〔伸長率〕
JIS L1096 A法 カットストリップ法に準じて測定した。
試験片の幅5cm、つかみ間隔20cmとした。
初荷重は試験片の幅で1mの長さにかかる重力に相当する荷重とした。
引張速度20cm/minとした。
17.7N(1.8kg)荷重時の伸長率(%)を測定した。
Evaluation in the examples was carried out by the following method.
〔Elongation〕
Measured according to JIS L1096 A method cut strip method.
The width of the test piece was 5 cm and the holding interval was 20 cm.
The initial load was a load corresponding to gravity applied to a length of 1 m in the width of the test piece.
The tensile speed was 20 cm / min.
The elongation percentage (%) when loaded with 17.7 N (1.8 kg) was measured.

ベース素材と隣接する領域および交互に隣接する領域を含んだタテ糸方向の伸長率を3回測定し平均して表示する。交互に隣接する領域が多く、つかみ間隔の20cmを超える場合は、長さ方向に2箇所以上に分けて測定した。   The stretch rate in the warp yarn direction including the areas adjacent to the base material and the areas adjacent to each other is measured three times and displayed as an average. When there were many alternately adjacent areas and the gripping distance exceeded 20 cm, the measurement was divided into two or more in the length direction.

ヨコ方向は、ベース素材と隣接する領域すべてについて、個別に測定する。帯状の幅が5cm未満の場合は、測定可能な幅で計測した。
〔30%伸長時の応力〕
ヨコ糸方向の伸長率測定時の30%伸長時の応力(N)を求め、1cm当りに換算した。
The horizontal direction is measured separately for all areas adjacent to the base material. When the band-like width was less than 5 cm, the width was measured.
[Stress at 30% elongation]
The stress (N) at the time of 30% elongation at the time of measuring the elongation rate in the weft direction was determined and converted per 1 cm.

ベース素材と隣接する領域すべてについて、個別に測定し、帯状の幅が5cm未満の場合は、測定可能な幅で計測し、1cm当たりのN/cmで表示した。   All areas adjacent to the base material were measured individually, and when the band width was less than 5 cm, it was measured with a measurable width and displayed as N / cm per cm.

最大領域と最小領域の差は、応力が小なる領域を元に、応力が大なる領域との差をパーセンテージで算出した。
〔伸長回復率〕
JIS L1096 A法に準じて測定した。
試験片の幅は5cm、つかみ間隔は20cmとした。
初荷重は試験片の幅で1mの長さにかかる重力に相当する荷重とした。
引張速度20cm/minとした。
17.7N(1.8kg)までの伸長を5回繰り返し下記式で伸長回復率を算出した。
The difference between the maximum region and the minimum region was calculated as a percentage of the difference from the region where the stress was large based on the region where the stress was small.
[Elongation recovery rate]
It measured according to JIS L1096 A method.
The width of the test piece was 5 cm, and the holding interval was 20 cm.
The initial load was a load corresponding to gravity applied to a length of 1 m in the width of the test piece.
The tensile speed was 20 cm / min.
Elongation up to 17.7 N (1.8 kg) was repeated 5 times, and the extension recovery rate was calculated by the following formula.

伸長率の測定と同様に、タテ糸方向は、ベース素材と隣接する領域および交互に隣接する領域を含んだタテ糸方向のN=3を平均して表示した。交互に隣接する領域が多く、つかみ間隔の20cmを超える場合は、長さ方向に2箇所以上分けて測定した。   Similar to the measurement of the elongation rate, the warp yarn direction is displayed by averaging N = 3 in the warp yarn direction including regions adjacent to the base material and regions adjacent to each other alternately. When there were many alternately adjacent areas and the gripping distance exceeded 20 cm, the measurement was performed by dividing two or more locations in the length direction.

ヨコ糸方向は、ベース素材と隣接する領域すべてについて、個別に測定し、帯状の幅が5cm未満の場合は、測定可能な幅で計測し、3回の平均で表示した
伸長回復率=(L10−L‘10)/L10*100
L10=17.7N荷重時の伸び(cm)
L‘10=5回繰り返し荷重した後の残留のび(cm)
[実施例1]
芯糸として東レ・オペロンテックス株式会社の耐塩素ライクラ“ライクラ−254B”33Tを用い、鞘糸として22デシテックス20フィラメントのナイロン6生糸、芯糸のドラフト率3.5倍にて撚り数1400T/Mのシングルカバーリング糸を作製した。このカバーリング糸を(1)とする。芯糸として東レ・オペロンテックス株式会社の耐塩素ライクラ“ライクラ−254B”55Tを用い、78デシテックス68フィラメントのナイロン6生糸を用い、芯糸のドラフト率3.4倍にて撚り数800T/M、シングルカバーリング糸を作製した。このカバーリング糸を(2)とする。
ベース素材の応力の大なる領域Aについて(1)の糸をタテ糸に、レピア織機で筬密度90羽/鯨寸(3.788cm)、筬入れ2本入れ、ヨコ糸に(1)の糸と(2)の糸を1本交互にヨコ密度100本/2.54cmにて製品で幅15cmになるようヨコ糸を打ち込み平織を製織した。連続して応力の小なる領域Bについて、ヨコ糸として(1)の糸を15本、(2)の糸を2本の繰り返しでヨコ密度100本/2.54cmにて製品で幅35cmになるようヨコ糸を打ち打ち込み平織を製織した。図1に概要を示す。生機を開布の状態でリラックス精練後、中間セット、液流染色機90℃で酸性染料にて紺色に染色を行った後、過剰な張力をかけず有り幅にて仕上げセットを行った。得られた織物のタテ糸方向の領域A10cmと連続する領域B10cmをつかみ間隔20cmで測定した伸長率が40%以上あり、30%伸長時のヨコ糸方向の応力は、領域Aが1.4N/cmに対し、領域Bの応力が1.2N/cmでありその差は17%であった。伸長回復率は伸長率測定と同条件のタテ糸方向と、領域Aおよび領域Bのいずれのヨコ糸方向も75%以上であった。領域Aを前身頃と後身頃の腰周りに、それ以外の部分に領域Bを配置しメンズ水着を作製した。領域AとBの差および領域Aのサポート力が体感できた。縫い目がある織物と比較し、織物表面の凹凸が少なく流水抵抗性に優れていた。伸長率などを表1に示した。
[実施例2]
芯糸として東レ・オペロンテックス株式会社の耐塩素ライクラ“ライクラ−254B”44Tを用い、鞘糸として22デシテックス24フィラメントのナイロン610の生糸を芯糸のドラフト率3.5倍にて撚り数1400T/Mのシングルカバーリング糸を作製した。このカバーリング糸を(3)とする。芯糸として東レ・オペロンテックス株式会社の耐塩素ライクラ“ライクラ−254B”55Tを用い、33デシテックス24フィラメントのカチオン可染ポリエステル糸を用い、芯糸のドラフト率3.5倍にて撚り数1400T/M、シングルカバーリング糸を作製した。このカバーリング糸を(4)とする。
ベース素材の応力の小なる領域Bについて、(3)の糸をタテ糸・ヨコ糸に用いレピア織機で筬密度90羽/鯨寸(3.788cm)、筬入れ2本入れ、ヨコ密度103本/2.54cmにて製品で幅15cmになるようヨコ糸を打ち込み平織を製織した。連続して領域Cについて、ヨコ糸として(3)の糸を15本、(4)の糸を15本の繰り返しでヨコ密度103本/2.54cmにて製品で幅5cmになるようヨコ糸を打ち込み平織を製織した。連続して領域Aについて(4)の糸をヨコ密度103本/2.54cmにて製品で幅10cmになるようにヨコ糸を打ち込み平織を製織した。引き続き領域Cを同糸使いで同条件で製品で幅5cmになるように平織りを製織後、連続して領域Bを同糸使いで同条件で製品で幅15cmになるように平織を製織した。領域B+領域C+領域A+領域C+領域Bを1ピッチとして生機を得た。図5に概要を示す。生機を開布の状態でリラックス精練後、中間セット、液流染色機で120℃で、酸性染料でナイロン610を黒色に、カチオン可染染料でカチオン可染ポリエステルを赤色に染色した後、過剰な張力をかけず有り幅にて仕上げセットを行った。得られた織物のタテ糸方向の領域B7.5cmと領域C5cm、領域A7.5cmをつかみ間隔20cmで測定した伸長率が40%以上あり、30%伸長時のヨコ糸方向の応力が領域B1.2N/cm、領域C1.4N/cm、領域A1.7N/cmであった。領域Bの応力と領域Aの応力差は42%であった。伸長回復率は伸長率測定と同条件のタテ糸方向と、領域A、領域Bおよび領域Cのいずれのヨコ糸方向も75%以上であった。後身頃の尻部分に領域Aを配置し、前身頃は実施例1と同じにしてメンズ水着を作製した。尻部分のサポート力が体感でき、運動追随性は問題なく、縫い目がある織物と比較し、織物表面の凹凸が少なく流水抵抗性に優れていた。伸長率などを表1に示した。
[比較例1]
実施例2の領域Bと同じ糸使い(3)にて同条件で製品にして35cmになるように平織を製織後、連続して領域Aについてヨコ糸(3)を15本、(4)を2本の繰り返しでヨコ密度103本/2.54cmにて製品で幅15cmになるようにヨコ糸を打ち込み平織を製織した。領域Aと領域Bを1ピッチとして生機を得、実施例2と同条件で染色加工を行った。得られた織物のタテ糸方向の領域B10cmと領域A10cmの伸長率が40%以上あるが、30%伸長時のヨコ糸方向の応力が領域B1.2N/cm、領域A1.25N/cmで、領域Bの応力と領域Aの応力差は4%であった。伸長回復率は伸長率測定と同条件のタテ糸方向と、領域A、領域Bおよび領域Cのいずれのヨコ糸方向も75%以上であった。実施例1と同じく領域Aを前身頃と後身頃の腰周りに、それ以外の部分に領域Bを配置しメンズ水着を作製した。領域AとBの差を体感することができなかった。伸長率などを表1に示した。
[比較例2]
芯糸として東レ・オペロンテックス株式会社の耐塩素ライクラ“ライクラ−254B”55Tを用い、44デシテックス36フィラメントのカチオン可染ポリエステル糸を用い、芯糸のドラフト率3.5倍にて撚り数1400T/M、シングルカバーリング糸を作製した。このカバーリング糸を(5)とする。
実施例2の領域Bと同じ糸使い(3)にて同条件で製品にして35cmになるように平織を製織した、連続して領域Aについてヨコ糸(5)でヨコ密度103本/2.54cmにて製品で幅15cmになるようにヨコ糸を打ち込み平織を製織した。領域Aと領域Bを1ピッチとして生機を得え、実施例2と同条件で染色加工を行った。得られた織物のタテ糸方向の領域B10cmと領域A10cmの伸長率が40%以上あるが、30%伸長時のヨコ糸方向の応力が領域B1.2N/cm、領域A2.1N/cmであった。領域Bの応力と領域Aの応力差は75%あり、領域AとBの収縮差が大きくパッカリング、シワが発生した。伸長回復率は伸長率測定と同条件のタテ糸方向と、領域Bのヨコ糸方向は75%以上であったが、領域Aの伸長回復率が75%以下であった。実施例1と同じく領域Aを前身頃と後身頃の腰周りに、それ以外の部分に領域Bを配置しメンズ水着を作製した。領域AとBの差を体感することができたが、領域AとBの差が大きく引き伸ばして着用しても凹凸が残留し流水抵抗に劣るものであった。伸長率などを表1に示した。
The weft direction is measured individually for all areas adjacent to the base material, and when the belt-like width is less than 5 cm, it is measured with a measurable width and displayed as an average of three times, the recovery rate of elongation = (L10 -L'10) / L10 * 100
L10 = 17.7N Elongation under load (cm)
L'10 = residual spread after repeated loading 5 times (cm)
[Example 1]
Chlorine-resistant lycra "Lycra-254B" 33T manufactured by Toray Operontex Co., Ltd. is used as the core yarn, nylon 6 raw yarn of 22 decitex 20 filaments as the sheath yarn, twist rate 1400T / M with a core yarn draft rate of 3.5 times A single covering yarn was prepared. Let this covering thread be (1). Toray Operontex Co., Ltd.'s chlorine-resistant lycra "Lycra-254B" 55T is used, 78 decitex 68 filament nylon 6 raw yarn is used, the core yarn draft rate is 3.4 times, and the twist number is 800 T / M. A single covering yarn was prepared. Let this covering thread be (2).
For the area A where the stress of the base material is large, the yarn of (1) is the warp yarn, the rapier weaving density is 90 wings / whale size (3.788 cm), 2 folds are put into the weft, and the yarn of (1) is used. A plain weave was knitted by driving the weft yarn into a width of 15 cm in the product at a weft density of 100 / 2.54 cm alternately with the yarn of (1) and (2). In the region B where the stress is continuously reduced, 15 yarns of (1) and 2 yarns of (2) are repeated as the weft yarn, and the width becomes 100 cm / 2.54 cm and the width becomes 35 cm. A plain weave was struck to make a plain weave. An outline is shown in FIG. After relaxing and scouring with the raw machine opened, an intermediate set and a liquid dyeing machine were dyed amber with an acidic dye at 90 ° C., and then finished with a width without applying excessive tension. The resulting fabric has an elongation of 40% or more measured at a spacing of 20 cm with a region B10 cm continuous with the region A10 cm in the warp direction, and the stress in the weft direction at 30% elongation is 1.4 N / The stress in the region B was 1.2 N / cm with respect to cm, and the difference was 17%. The elongation recovery rate was 75% or more in the warp yarn direction under the same conditions as in the elongation rate measurement, and in the weft direction in any of the regions A and B. A men's swimsuit was produced by arranging region A around the waist of the front and back bodies, and region B in the other part. The difference between the areas A and B and the support power of the area A were experienced. Compared to a fabric with seams, the fabric surface had less irregularities and was excellent in running water resistance. Table 1 shows the elongation ratio.
[Example 2]
Chlorine-resistant lycra "Lycra-254B" 44T manufactured by Toray Operontex Co., Ltd. is used as the core yarn, and nylon 610 of 22 decitex 24 filaments as the sheath yarn is twisted at a draft rate of 3.5 times of the core yarn at 1400T / M single covering yarn was prepared. Let this covering thread be (3). As the core yarn, chlorine-resistant lycra “Lycra-254B” 55T of Toray Operontex Co., Ltd. is used. Cationic dyeable polyester yarn of 33 dtex 24 filaments is used. M, single covering yarn was prepared. Let this covering thread be (4).
For the region B where the stress of the base material is low, using the yarn of (3) for warp and weft, a rapier weaving machine has a cocoon density of 90 feathers / whale size (3.788 cm), 2 cocoon holders, and 103 cocoon density / Weaved a plain yarn so that the width of the product was 15 cm at 2.54 cm, and woven a plain weave. Continuously, for region C, weaving 15 yarns of (3) and 15 yarns of (4) as weft yarns so that the width is 103 cm / 2.54 cm and the product width is 5 cm. The driven plain weave was woven. Continuously, weaving a plain weave for region A by weaving the yarn of (4) at a weft density of 103 / 2.54 cm and a product width of 10 cm. Subsequently, the plain weave was woven so that the region C was used under the same conditions and the width was 5 cm with the product under the same conditions, and then the plain weave was continuously woven using the same yarns under the same conditions and the width was 15 cm with the product. Region B + region C + region A + region C + region B was taken as 1 pitch to obtain a living machine. An overview is shown in FIG. After relaxing and scouring the raw machine in an open state, after dyeing nylon 610 in black with an acid dye and a cationic dye in red with an acid dye at an intermediate set, a liquid dyeing machine at 120 ° C., excess Finishing set was performed at a certain width without applying tension. The warp direction of the obtained woven fabric region B7.5cm, region C5cm, region A7.5cm, the elongation rate measured at a spacing of 20cm is 40% or more, the stress in the weft direction at 30% elongation is region B1. They were 2 N / cm, region C1.4 N / cm, and region A 1.7 N / cm. The difference in stress between region B and region A was 42%. The elongation recovery rate was 75% or more in the warp yarn direction under the same conditions as in the elongation rate measurement and in the weft direction in any of the regions A, B, and C. A region A was arranged on the back part of the back body, and a men's swimsuit was made in the same manner as in Example 1 for the front body. The support of the hips can be experienced and there is no problem with the ability to follow the movement. Compared with a fabric with seams, the fabric surface has less irregularities and has excellent resistance to running water. Table 1 shows the elongation ratio.
[Comparative Example 1]
After weaving a plain weave so that the product is 35 cm in the same condition using the same yarn usage (3) as in region B of Example 2, 15 weft yarns (3) and (4) in region A continuously. A plain weave was knitted by driving the weft yarn so that the width of the product was 15 cm at a weft density of 103 / 2.54 cm with two repetitions. Region A and region B were taken as 1 pitch to obtain a living machine, and dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 2. The elongation rate of the region B10 cm and the region A10 cm in the warp yarn direction of the obtained woven fabric is 40% or more, but the stress in the weft direction at the time of 30% elongation is region B1.2 N / cm, region A1.25 N / cm, The difference in stress between region B and region A was 4%. The elongation recovery rate was 75% or more in the warp yarn direction under the same conditions as in the elongation rate measurement and in the weft direction in any of the regions A, B, and C. Similarly to Example 1, the region A was arranged around the waists of the front body and the back body, and the region B was arranged in the other part to prepare a men's swimsuit. The difference between areas A and B could not be experienced. Table 1 shows the elongation ratio.
[Comparative Example 2]
The core yarn is chlorine-resistant lycra "Lycra-254B" 55T manufactured by Toray Operontex Co., Ltd., 44 decitex 36-filament cationic dyeable polyester yarn, and the core yarn has a draft rate of 3.5 times and a twist of 1400T / M, single covering yarn was prepared. Let this covering thread be (5).
A plain weave was woven into a product of 35 cm in the same condition using the same yarn usage (3) as in the region B of Example 2, and a horizontal density of 103 yarns / 2. A plain weave was woven by driving a weft thread so that the product had a width of 15 cm at 54 cm. Region A and region B were set to 1 pitch to obtain a living machine, and dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 2. In the obtained woven fabric, the elongation rate of the region B10 cm and the region A10 cm in the warp yarn direction is 40% or more, but the stress in the weft direction at the time of 30% elongation is region B1.2 N / cm and region A2.1 N / cm. It was. The difference between the stress in the region B and the stress in the region A was 75%, and the shrinkage difference between the regions A and B was large, causing puckering and wrinkles. The elongation recovery rate was 75% or more in the warp yarn direction and the weft direction in region B under the same conditions as in the elongation rate measurement, but the elongation recovery rate in region A was 75% or less. Similarly to Example 1, the region A was arranged around the waists of the front body and the back body, and the region B was arranged in the other part to prepare a men's swimsuit. Although the difference between the regions A and B could be experienced, even when the difference between the regions A and B was greatly stretched and worn, the unevenness remained and the running water resistance was poor. Table 1 shows the elongation ratio.

本発明に係るストレッチ織物は、ヨコ糸方向の応力の異なる帯状の領域が2種以上あり領域どうしの境界に縫い目がない高伸長で伸長回復性に優れたストレッチ織物により、体型補正機能を持つインナーや、コンプレッション機能を持つ運動効果を高めたスポーツウエア、流水抵抗の少ない水着やサポート機能を持つ衣料に好適に使用されるストレッチ織物を提供することができる。   The stretch fabric according to the present invention is an inner fabric having a body shape correcting function by a stretch fabric having two or more types of belt-shaped regions having different stresses in the weft direction and having no seams at the boundaries between the regions and excellent in stretch recovery. It is also possible to provide a stretch woven fabric that is suitably used for sportswear having a compression function, sportswear with an enhanced exercise effect, swimwear with low running water resistance, and clothing having a support function.

Claims (7)

芯糸にスパンデックス繊維、鞘糸に合成繊維を用いた被覆糸をタテ糸およびヨコ糸に用いた織物において、ヨコ糸方向の30%伸長時の応力が異なる帯状の領域が少なくとも2種存在し、該応力が異なる領域どうしの境界部分に縫い目がなく、タテ方向および/またはヨコ方向の伸長率が40%以上、タテ方向および/またはヨコ方向の伸長回復率が75%以上であることを特徴とするストレッチ織物。 In a woven fabric using a spandex fiber as a core yarn and a covering yarn using a synthetic fiber as a sheath yarn as a warp yarn and a weft yarn, there are at least two types of belt-like regions having different stresses at 30% elongation in the weft direction, There is no seam at the boundary between regions where the stresses are different, the elongation rate in the vertical direction and / or the horizontal direction is 40% or more, and the elongation recovery rate in the vertical direction and / or the horizontal direction is 75% or more. Stretch fabric. 該応力が異なる領域が、応力が大なる領域Aと応力が小なる領域Bとからなり、該領域Aと該領域Bとが隣接して交互に存在する請求項1記載のストレッチ織物。 The stretch woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the regions having different stresses are composed of regions A in which the stress is large and regions B in which the stress is small, and the regions A and the regions B are alternately adjacent to each other. 該応力が異なる領域が、応力が大なる領域Aと応力が小なる領域Bと該領域Bの応力を越え、該領域Aの応力未満の応力を有する領域Cとからなり、それぞれの領域どうしの境界部分に縫い目がないことを特徴とする請求項1に記載のストレッチ織物。 The regions having different stresses are composed of a region A in which the stress is large, a region B in which the stress is small, and a region C that exceeds the stress in the region B and has a stress that is less than the stress in the region A. The stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein the boundary portion has no seam. 応力が異なる帯状の領域における最大応力と最小応力の差として、最大応力が、最小応力の5%以上、50%以下であることを特徴とする請求項1〜3のいずれかに記載のストレッチ織物。 The stretch fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the maximum stress is 5% or more and 50% or less of the minimum stress as a difference between the maximum stress and the minimum stress in the belt-like regions having different stresses. . 該ストレッチ織物に表面平滑化加工および/または撥水加工が施されていることを特徴とする請求項1から4のいずれかに記載のストレッチ織物。 The stretch fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the stretch fabric is subjected to a surface smoothing process and / or a water repellent process. 請求項1から5のいずれかに記載の織物を少なくともその一部に用いたことを特徴とする衣料。 A garment comprising the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5 as at least a part thereof. 請求項1から5のいずれかに記載の織物を少なくともその一部に用いたことを特徴とする水着。 A swimsuit comprising the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5 as at least a part thereof.
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CN115387005A (en) * 2022-09-30 2022-11-25 汕头市一针优品服装有限公司 Special shell fabric for steel-support-free underwear with pressure reduction function and preparation method thereof
CN115434059A (en) * 2022-08-29 2022-12-06 浙江蓝之梦纺织有限公司 Washable high-elasticity jean fabric and preparation method thereof

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR20160119262A (en) 2014-03-31 2016-10-12 미즈노 가부시키가이샤 Stretch woven fabric, and sportswear and swimwear employing same
JP2018516319A (en) * 2015-06-02 2018-06-21 ジーエスエム・(オペレーションズ)・ピーティーワイ・リミテッド Clothing especially useful for underwater activities
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CN115434059A (en) * 2022-08-29 2022-12-06 浙江蓝之梦纺织有限公司 Washable high-elasticity jean fabric and preparation method thereof
CN115387005A (en) * 2022-09-30 2022-11-25 汕头市一针优品服装有限公司 Special shell fabric for steel-support-free underwear with pressure reduction function and preparation method thereof
CN115387005B (en) * 2022-09-30 2023-10-27 汕头市一针优品服装有限公司 Steel-support-free underwear special fabric with pressure reducing function and preparation method thereof

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