JP2019196311A - Composition in form of o/w type - Google Patents

Abstract

An O / W containing a relatively large amount of a ceramide compound capable of providing improved absorption of a ceramide compound by a keratin substance such as skin or improved penetration of the ceramide compound into a keratin substance such as skin. Providing a stable composition in the form of a mold. SOLUTION: This is an O / W type oil containing (a) at least one oil, (b) at least one ceramide compound, (c) at least one thickener, and (d) water. The composition of the form, the amount of the (b) ceramide compound in the composition is 0.8 mass% or more relative to the total mass of the composition, the viscosity of the composition, under a shear rate of 0.02sec-1. At 25 ° C., 40-1,000 Pa.s. The composition according to the invention is stable and can accelerate or improve the penetration of ceramide compounds into keratin substances such as the skin or the absorption of ceramide compounds by keratin substances such as the skin. [Selection diagram] None

Description

  The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an O / W type containing a ceramide compound and having a specific range of viscosity.

  Ceramides present in the stratum corneum of the skin form an essential lipid barrier to retain moisture and play an important role in maintaining moisture in the skin. Ceramide in the stratum corneum is produced by the degradation of cerebroside by an enzyme known as cerebrosidase. Ceramide is partially transformed into phytosphingosine and sphingosine by an enzyme known as ceramidase. Phytosphingosine and sphingosine play an important role in the control of cell proliferation and differentiation. Six different ceramides with different functional groups are present in human skin.

  Ceramide compounds have been used as humectants. On the other hand, USP 8268805 discloses that certain ceramide compounds can be used to lighten or whiten the skin.

  In order to whiten the skin, it is preferred that the ceramide compound is absorbed or penetrates into the skin as much as possible. Therefore, a relatively large amount of ceramide compound can be incorporated into the skin cosmetic composition.

  However, skin absorption or skin penetration of ceramide compounds is not easy due to their high molecular weight and high lipophilicity, even when relatively large amounts of ceramide compounds are present in skin cosmetic compositions.

  On the other hand, a composition containing a relatively large amount of ceramide compound is required to be stable. In particular, if the composition is in O / W form, it is required that the composition does not cause any phase separation over time.

  Therefore, there is a need for stable compositions containing relatively large amounts of ceramide compounds that can provide improved skin absorption or skin penetration of ceramide compounds.

USP 8268805 DE 4424530 DE 4424533 DE 4402929 DE 4420736 WO 95/23807 WO 94/07844 EP-A-0 646 572 WO 95/16665 FR-2 673 179 EP-A-0 227 994 WO 94/24097 WO 94/10131 EP-A-0 647 617 EP-A-0 736 522 EP-0 216 479 B2 U.S. Pat.No. 3,915,921 U.S. Pat.No. 4,509,949 FR-2 416 723 U.S. Pat.No. 2,798,053 U.S. Pat.No. 2,923,692 U.S. Pat.No. 2,528,378 U.S. Pat.No. 2,781,354 U.S. Pat.No. 4,874,554 U.S. Pat.No. 4,137,180

Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics ASTM standard 445 Appendix C Downing in Journal of Lipid Research, Vol. 35, 2060-2068, 1994 "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, 3rd edition, 1982, volume 3, pages 896-900, and volume 15, pages 439-458 "Polymers in Nature", E. A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pages 240-328, 1980 "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, 2nd edition, published by Academic Press Inc. CTFA Dictionary, 9th edition, 2002 CTFA Dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 "Handbook of Surfactants", M.R.Porter, Blackie & Son Publishing (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178 "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984)

  Objects of the present invention include relatively large amounts of ceramide compounds that can result in improved absorption of ceramide compounds by keratin materials such as skin, or improved penetration of ceramide compounds into keratin materials such as skin. It is to provide a stable composition in the form of an O / W type.

The above object of the present invention is to
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one ceramide compound;
(c) at least one thickener;
(d) a composition in the form of an O / W type containing water,
The amount of (b) ceramide compound in the composition is 0.8% by mass or more based on the total mass of the composition,
The viscosity is 40 to 1,000 Pa.s at 25 ° C. under a shear rate of 0.02 sec ⁻¹ ,
It can be achieved by the composition.

  (a) The oil can be selected from ester oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

  (a) The oil may be isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.

  The oil (a) in the composition according to the present invention is 1% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 5% by mass to 25% by mass, more preferably 10% by mass to 20% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. Range.

  (b) Ceramide compound has the formula (I):

[Where
R ₁ is:
A linear or branched C _{1 to} C ₅₀ , preferably C _{5 to} C ₅₀ hydrocarbon group, either saturated or unsaturated, which is an acid R ₇ COOH (R ₇ is optionally mono - or are polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or one is esterified with optionally by a is) branched C ₁ -C ₃₅ hydrocarbon group or hydroxyl A saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, wherein the hydroxyl (s) of the R ₇ group are optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated by Jo of C ₁ -C ₃₅ fatty acids can be are esterified,
- or R "- (NR-CO) R ' group (wherein, R represents a hydrogen atom, or a mono- - or are polyhydroxylated, preferably C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical which is mono-hydroxylated R ′ and R ″ are hydrocarbon groups whose sum of carbon atoms is between 9 and 30 and R ′ is a divalent group),
-Or R ₈ -O-CO- (CH ₂ ) _p group (wherein R ₈ represents a C _{1 to} C ₂₀ hydrocarbon group and p is a variable integer of 1 to 12),
R ₂ is selected from a hydrogen atom, a sugar type group, in particular a (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m, or sulfogalactosyl group, sulfate or phosphate residue, phosphorylethylamine group and phosphorylethylammonium group, Where n is a variety of integers from 1 to 4, and m is a variety of integers from 1 to 8.
R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₃₃ hydrocarbon group, wherein the hydroxyl (s) are an inorganic acid or an acid R ₇ COOH (R ₇ has the same meaning as above), where the hydroxyl (s) are (glycosyl) _n , (galactosyl) _m , sulfogalactosyl group, It can be etherified with a phosphorylethylamine group or a phosphorylethylammonium group, where n is a different integer from 1 to 4, m is a different integer from 1 to 8, and R _3, it is also possible substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₁₄ alkyl group,
R ₄ represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or an ethyl group, an optionally hydroxylated saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C _{3 to} C ₅₀ hydrocarbon group, or —CH ₂ —. CHOH—CH ₂ —OR ₆ group (wherein R ₆ represents a C _{10 to} C ₂₆ hydrocarbon group) or R ₈ —O—CO— (CH ₂ ) _p group (wherein R ₈ is C _{1 to} C ₂₀ hydrocarbon group, p is a variable integer of 1 to 12),
R ₅ represents a hydrogen atom or, optionally, mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, wherein the hydroxyl (1 Can be etherified with (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m, sulfogalactosyl group, phosphorylethylamine group or phosphorylethylammonium group, where n is 1-4. A variety of integers, m is a variety of integers from 1 to 8,
However, when R ₃ and R ₅ represent hydrogen, or when R ₃ represents hydrogen and R ₅ represents methyl, R ₄ does not represent a hydrogen atom, or a methyl group or an ethyl group]
Can be expressed as

  (b) Ceramide compounds are 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3- Diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N- [2-hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane-1,3-diol , 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof.

  The amount of the (b) ceramide compound in the composition according to the present invention is 0.8% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.9% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 1.0% by mass to the total mass of the composition. It may be in the range of 5% by weight.

  (c) The thickener can be selected from polymer thickeners, preferably associative polymer thickeners, more preferably anionic associative polymer thickeners.

  (c) The thickener may be an acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.

  The amount of (c) thickener in the composition according to the present invention is 0.05% to 0.40% by weight, preferably 0.10% to 0.35% by weight, more preferably 0.15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be in the range of ~ 0.30% by mass.

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise (e) at least one surfactant.

  The composition according to the invention may be directed to whitening keratin materials.

  The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating keratinous substances such as skin, comprising the step of applying a composition according to the invention to keratinous substances.

  The cosmetic method may be directed to whitening keratin materials.

The present invention also provides
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one ceramide compound;
(d) in a composition in the form of an O / W containing water, (c) the use of at least one thickener,
The amount of (b) ceramide compound in the composition is 0.8% or more with respect to the total mass of the composition,
The viscosity of the composition is controlled within the range of 40 to 1,000 Pa.s at 25 ° C. under a shear rate of 0.02 sec ⁻¹ , thereby causing no instability of the composition (b) at least It also relates to the use of promoting or improving skin penetration or skin absorption of one ceramide compound.

  As a result of intensive studies, the inventors have found that relatively large amounts of ceramide compounds can be obtained by improved absorption of ceramide compounds by keratin materials such as skin, or improved penetration of ceramide compounds into keratin materials such as skin. It has been found that it is possible to provide a stable composition in the form of an O / W type containing a ceramide compound.

Therefore, one embodiment of the present invention provides
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one ceramide compound;
(c) at least one thickener;
(d) a composition in the form of an O / W type containing water,
The amount of (b) ceramide compound in the composition is 0.8% by mass or more based on the total mass of the composition,
The viscosity is 40 to 1,000 Pa.s at 25 ° C. under a shear rate of 0.02 sec ⁻¹ ,
It is a composition.

The composition according to the invention is in a keratin substance such as skin or by a keratin substance such as skin, compared to a composition having a viscosity of greater than 1,000 Pa.s at 25 ° C. under a shear rate of 0.02 sec ⁻¹ The penetration of the ceramide compound or the absorption of the ceramide compound can be promoted or improved.

The composition according to the invention is more stable than a composition having a viscosity of less than 40 Pa.s at 25 ° C. under a shear rate of 0.02 sec ⁻¹ . Therefore, the composition according to the invention does not cause any phase separation over time.

  Thus, one of the technical features of the composition according to the invention has a specific viscosity range that can improve the absorption of ceramide compounds by keratin materials or the penetration of ceramide compounds into keratin materials. At the same time, it can keep the composition stable. In other words, the specific viscosity range is based on a balance between improving or promoting the absorption or penetration of the ceramide compound in the composition and the stability of the composition.

  Furthermore, since the composition according to the present invention comprises a ceramide compound, the composition whitens or clarifies keratin substances such as skin as moisturizers and / or can impart a moist or moist sensation. It can be used as a whitening agent that can be colored. Since the composition according to the invention comprises a relatively large amount of ceramide compound, the composition can further promote or improve the penetration of the ceramide compound into the keratin material or the absorption of the ceramide compound by the keratin material.

  Furthermore, since the external phase in the composition according to the invention is an aqueous phase, the composition according to the invention can also provide a fresh sensation during use.

  Hereinafter, the present invention and the method according to the present invention will be described in detail respectively.

[Composition]
(oil)
The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one oil. When two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.

  As used herein, “oil” means a fatty compound or fatty substance in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25 ° C.) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Those commonly used in cosmetics as oils can be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

  (a) The oil may be a nonpolar oil such as hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil; polar oil such as vegetable oil or animal oil and ester oil or ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

  (a) The oil can be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

  Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, Mention may be made of soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.

  Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

Ester oils are preferably saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacid or polyacid, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C _It is a liquid ester with _{1 to} C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohol or polyalcohol, and the total number of carbon atoms of these esters is 10 or more.

  Preferably, in the case of esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohols and acids from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

  Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristate such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate And isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C _{4 to} C ₂₂ dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids and C _{1 to} C ₂₂ alcohols, and monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C _{4 to} C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or Esters of pentahydroxy with alcohols can also be used.

  The following may be mentioned in particular: diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis (adipate) 2-ethylhexyl), diisostearyl adipate, bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactic acid, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, citrate Acid trioleyl, diheptanoic acid neopentyl glycol, diisononanoic acid diethylene glycol.

As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C _{6 to} C ₃₀ , preferably C _{12 to} C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functionalities and at least 4 carbon atoms, with or without aldehyde or ketone functionalities. . These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

  Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned are sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives. Derivatives, for example methyl glucose.

Sugar esters of fatty acids, the aforementioned sugar, linear or branched, C ₆ -C ₃₀ saturated or unsaturated, particularly preferably from the group comprising esters or ester mixtures of C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids You can choose. If these compounds are unsaturated, they may have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

  Esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

  These esters include, for example, oleic acid ester, lauric acid ester, palmitic acid ester, myristic acid ester, behenic acid ester, coconut fatty acid ester, stearic acid ester, linoleic acid ester, linolenic acid ester, capric acid ester and arachidonic acid ester. Or a mixture thereof, such as in particular oleopalmitic acid, a mixed ester of oleostearic acid and palmitostearic acid, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

  More particularly, monoesters and diesters, in particular sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleate or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate Esters are used.

  An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is methylglucose dioleate.

  Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexanoic acid 2 -Ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl octoate, caprylic acid / 2-ethylhexyl caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroylsarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, Hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, tri (2-ethylhexane ) Glyceryl, tetra (2-ethylhexanoate) pentaerythrityl, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and can be mixtures thereof.

  Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri (capric / caprylic acid) glyceryl and Mention may be made of tri (capric / caprylic / linolenic) glyceryl.

  Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc .; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl Mention may be made of cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, particularly liquid polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) containing at least one aryl group and liquid polyorganosiloxane.

  These silicone oils may also be organically modified. Organically modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, silicones containing in their structure one or more organic functional groups bonded via hydrocarbon-based groups. Oil.

  Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

If they are volatile, the silicones are more specifically selected from those having a boiling point between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly selected from:
(i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. They are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by the company Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by the company Rhodia, the name Volatile Silicon (by the Union Carbide company). Registered trademark 7158, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Sibione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and these It is a mixture of Cyclocopolymers of the type dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane etc., for example the formula:

[Where
D "

And D 'is

Is]
Mention may also be made of Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide.
Mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis (2, Mention may also be made of mixtures with (2,2 ′, 2 ′, 3,3′-hexatrimethylsilyloxy) neopentane; and
(ii) A linear volatile polydialkylsiloxane containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of not more than 5 × 10 ⁻⁶ m ² / sec at 25 ° C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in articles published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicone is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

  Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. More specifically, these non-volatile silicones are selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups can be mainly cited.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products can be mentioned without limitation:
-Silbione® oil 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oil sold by Rhodia, for example 70 047 V 500 000 oil,
-Mirasil® series oil sold by Rhodia,
-200 series oils from Dow Corning, for example DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm ² / sec, and
-Viscasil® oil from General Electric and certain oils in the SF series from General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

  Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known by the name dimethiconol (CTFA), for example the 48 series oil from Rhodia.

  Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiaryl siloxanes, in particular polydiphenyl siloxanes and polyalkylaryl siloxanes such as phenyl silicone oils.

  Phenyl silicone oil has the following formula:

(Where
R _{1 to} R ₁₀ are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, preferably a C _{1 to} C ₁₂ hydrocarbon group, more preferably C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group,
m, n, p and q are each independently an integer of 0 to 900 including both ends, preferably 0 to 500 including both ends, more preferably 0 to 100 including both ends,
(However, the sum n + m + q is not 0)
You can choose from phenyl silicones.

Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:
-70 641 series of Silbione® oil from Rhodia,
-Rhoodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia,
-Dow Corning Oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid,
-Bayer PK series silicones, for example the product PK20,
-Certain oils from the General Electric SF series, for example SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (wherein R _{1 to} R ₁₀ are methyl, p, q, and n = 0, and m = 1) is preferable.

  The organically modified liquid silicone may particularly contain a polyethyleneoxy group and / or a polypropyleneoxy group. Therefore, silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and Oil Silwet (registered trademark) L722 and L77 manufactured by Union Carbide can be mentioned.

The hydrocarbon oil can be selected from:
- linear or branched, cyclic C ₆ -C ₁₆ lower alkanes optionally. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane, and
Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and squalane.

  Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, Mention may be made of naphthalene and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

  The term “fat” in fatty alcohols means that contains a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Therefore, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.

Fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, where R is 4-40 carbon atoms, preferably 6-30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12-20 carbon atoms, saturated and unsaturated. Saturated, linear and branched groups). In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl group. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

  Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, Mention may be made of erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

  It is preferred that the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

Therefore, fatty alcohols, linear or branched, C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, preferably straight-chain or branched, saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, more preferably, It can be selected from linear or branched, saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alcohols.

The term “saturated fatty alcohol” as used herein means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. Saturated fatty alcohols, any of straight-chain or branched, it is preferably selected from saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. Of the linear or branched, saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any, linear or branched, saturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohol, more preferably it is used. Branched C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols may even more preferably be used.

  Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyl decanol, or mixtures thereof (eg, cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol can be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

  According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the invention is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

  It is also preferred that (a) the oil is selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

Preferably, (a) the oil has a low molecular weight, such as less than 600 g / mol, hydrocarbon short (s) (C ₁ -C ₁₂₎ ester oils with (e.g., lauroyl sarcosinate isopropyl, Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g. volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g. isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), branched and / or Or an unsaturated fatty alcohol (C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ ) type oil, such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

  (a) The oil is preferably selected from ester oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

  More preferably, (a) the oil is isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.

  The amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more based on the total weight of the composition.

  The amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by mass or less, preferably 25% by mass or less, more preferably 20% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

  The amount of (a) oil in the composition according to the present invention is 1% to 30% by weight, preferably 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably 10% to 20%, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be mass%.

  (a) The oil can form the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

  When the composition according to the invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion, the (a) oil in the composition according to the invention can form a fatty phase dispersed in the O / W emulsion.

  The amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the invention is 1% to 40% by weight, preferably 5% to 35% by weight, more preferably 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Range.

(Ceramide compound)
The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one ceramide compound. A single type of ceramide compound may be used, or two or more different types of ceramide compounds may be used in combination.

  According to the invention, the term “ceramide compound” is understood to mean natural or synthetic ceramide and / or glycoceramide and / or pseudoceramide and / or neoceramide.

  Ceramide compounds are, for example, patent applications, DE 4424530, DE 4424533, DE 4402929, DE 4420736, WO 95/23807, WO 94/07844, EP-A-0 646 572, WO 95/16665, FR-2 673 179, EP-A-0 227 994, WO 94/07844, WO 94/24097 and WO 94/10131, the teachings of which are incorporated herein by reference.

  The ceramide compounds that can be used according to the invention have the general formula (I):

[Where
R ₁ is:
A linear or branched C _{1 to} C ₅₀ , preferably C _{5 to} C ₅₀ hydrocarbon group, either saturated or unsaturated, which is an acid R ₇ COOH (R ₇ is optionally mono - or are polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or one is esterified with optionally by a is) branched C ₁ -C ₃₅ hydrocarbon group or hydroxyl A saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, wherein the hydroxyl (s) of the R ₇ group are optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated by Jo of C ₁ -C ₃₅ fatty acids can be are esterified,
- or R "- (NR-CO) R ' group (wherein, R represents a hydrogen atom, or a mono- - or are polyhydroxylated, preferably C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical which is mono-hydroxylated R ′ and R ″ are hydrocarbon groups whose sum of carbon atoms is between 9 and 30 and R ′ is a divalent group),
-Or R ₈ -O-CO- (CH ₂ ) _p group (wherein R ₈ represents a C _{1 to} C ₂₀ hydrocarbon group, and p is a various integer of 1 to 12)
Indicate
R ₂ is selected from a hydrogen atom, a sugar type group, particularly selected from (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m or sulfogalactosyl group, sulfate or phosphate residue, phosphorylethylamine group and phosphorylethylammonium group, Here, n is a diverse integer from 1 to 4, m is a diverse integer from 1 to 8,
R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₃₃ hydrocarbon group, wherein the hydroxyl (s) are an inorganic acid or an acid R ₇ COOH (R ₇ has the same meaning as above), where the hydroxyl (s) are (glycosyl) _n , (galactosyl) _m , sulfogalactosyl group, It can be etherified with a phosphorylethylamine group or a phosphorylethylammonium group, where n is a different integer from 1 to 4, m is a different integer from 1 to 8, and R _3, it is also possible substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₁₄ alkyl group,
R ₄ is a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or an ethyl group, an optionally hydroxylated saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C _{3 to} C ₅₀ hydrocarbon group, or —CH ₂ —. CHOH—CH ₂ —OR ₆ group (wherein R ₆ represents a C _{10 to} C ₂₆ hydrocarbon group) or R ₈ —O—CO— (CH ₂ ) _p group (wherein R ₈ is C _{1 to} C ₂₀ hydrocarbon group, p is a variable integer of 1 to 12),
R ₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, wherein the hydroxyl (1 Can be etherified with (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m, sulfogalactosyl group, phosphorylethylamine group or phosphorylethylammonium group, where n is 1-4. A variety of integers, m is a variety of integers from 1 to 8,
However, when R ₃ and R ₅ represent hydrogen, or when R ₃ represents hydrogen and R ₅ represents methyl, R ₄ does not represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or an ethyl group]
In fact, it preferably corresponds to this formula.

  Among the compounds of formula (I), having the structure described by Downing in Journal of Lipid Research, Vol. 35, 2060-2068, 1994, or disclosed in French patent application FR-2 673 179 Although ceramide and / or glycoceramide are preferred, the teachings of which are incorporated herein by reference.

In the above formula (I), R ₃ preferably represents a C ₁₅ -C ₂₆ α-hydroxyalkyl group, and the hydroxyl group is optionally esterified with a C ₁₅ -C ₂₆ α-hydroxy acid.

More particularly preferred ceramide compounds according to the invention are those of formula (I) (R ₁ represents saturated or unsaturated alkyl, optionally hydroxylated, derived from C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, R ₂ represents a hydrogen atom, R ₃ is hydroxylated optionally linear C ₁₁ -C ₁₇ group, .R ₃ preferably represents a C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ radicals, preferably, alpha -Represents a hydroxycetyl group, and R ₂ , R ₄ and R ₅ represent a hydrogen atom).

  (b) The ceramide compound is 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3- Diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N- [2-hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane-1,3-diol Preferably, it is selected from the group consisting of 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof.

  (b) the ceramide compound is bis (N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) malonamide, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amide of cetyl acid, and N-docosanoyl It is also preferred to be selected from -N-methyl-D-glucamine.

  Mixtures of ceramide compounds may also be used, for example mixtures of ceramide 2 and ceramide 5 according to the Downing classification.

In particular, formula (I) [wherein R ₁ represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from a C _{12 to} C ₂₂ fatty acid, R ₂ represents a galactosyl group or a sulfogalactosyl group, and R ₃ represents Saturated or unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radicals, preferably —CH═CH— (CH ₂ ) ₁₂ —CH ₃ radicals ”may also be used.

  As an example, mention may be made of a product consisting of a mixture of glycoceramides sold under the trade name Glycocer by the company Waitaki International Biosciences.

  The compounds of formula (I) disclosed in the patent applications EP-A-0 227 994, EP-A-0 647 617, EP-A-0 736 522 and WO 94/07844 may also be used.

  Such compounds include, for example, Questamide H (bis (N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) malonamide) sold by Quest, or N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3 -Cetyloxy-2-hydroxy-propyl) amide.

  N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine disclosed in the patent application WO 94/24097 may also be used.

  Of course, it is possible to use mixtures of various ceramide compounds in the composition of the invention.

  The amount of the (b) ceramide compound in the composition according to the present invention is 0.8% by mass or more, preferably 0.9% by mass or more, more preferably 1.0% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

  The amount of the (b) ceramide compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

  The amount of the (b) ceramide compound in the composition according to the present invention is 0.8% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.9% by mass to 10% by mass, more preferably 1.0% by mass to the total mass of the composition. It may be 5% by weight.

  The mass ratio of the amount of (a) oil / (b) ceramide compound may be 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, more preferably 3 or more, even more preferably 5 or more, and / or 100 or less, Preferably, it may be 50 or less, more preferably 30 or less, and even more preferably 20 or less.

(Thickener)
The composition according to the invention comprises (c) at least one thickener. A single type of thickener may be used, but two or more different types of thickeners may be used in combination.

  The thickening agent can be selected from organic thickeners and inorganic thickeners.

The organic thickener can be selected from at least one of the following:
(i) associative thickener,
(ii) cross-linked acrylic acid homopolymer,
(iii) a cross-linked copolymer of (meth) acrylic acid and (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl acrylate,
(iv) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one of ethylenically unsaturated ester monomers and ethylenically unsaturated amide monomers;
(v) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide;
(vi) polysaccharides, and
(vii) C ₁₂ ~C ₃₀ fatty alcohols.

(i) As used herein, the expression “associative thickener” refers to both hydrophilic and hydrophobic units, such as at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty chain and at least one It means an amphiphilic thickener containing hydrophilic units.

Representative associative thickeners that can be used are:
(aa) a nonionic amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit;
(bb) an anionic amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit;
(cc) a cationic amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit, and
(dd) an associative polymer selected from amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit;
Here, the fatty chain contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

(aa) The nonionic amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit can be selected, for example, from:
(1) Cellulose modified with a group containing at least one fatty chain; examples that may be mentioned include:
- alkyl group, at least one hydroxyethylcellulose modified with groups comprising a fatty chain selected from arylalkyl and alkyl aryl groups, wherein the alkyl group is, for example, a C ₈ -C _22, for example, by the company Aqualon The product sold Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C _1-6 alkyl) and the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel, and
Cellulose modified with polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenyl ether groups, for example the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol.
(2) Hydroxypropyl guar modified with a group containing at least one fatty chain, for example the product Esaflor HM 22 (C ₂₂ alkyl chain) sold by Lamberti and the product Miracare XC95 sold by Rhodia Chimie -3 (C ₁₄ alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C ₂₀ alkyl chains).
(3) at least one fatty chain, such as C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, or a urethane polyethers containing alkenyl groups, products Elfacos T 210 and Elfacos T 212 sold by the company Akzo Examples or Rohm & Haas Co. Products sold by Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46.
(4) Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty chain monomers; examples that may be mentioned include the following:
-Products Antaron V216 and Ganex V216 (vinyl pyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by ISP, and
-Products Antaron V220 and Ganex V220 (vinyl pyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by ISP.
(5) C ₁ ~C ₆ and alkyl acrylate or C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl methacrylate, copolymers of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, oxy sold under the name Antil 208, for example, by the company Goldschmidt Ethyleneated methyl methacrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer.
(6) A copolymer of a hydrophilic acrylate or methacrylate and a hydrophobic monomer containing at least one fatty chain, such as a polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

(bb) an anionic amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit, for example, at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit, an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer unit, For example, it can be selected from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit comprising vinyl carboxylic acid units, and further, for example, can be selected from units derived from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof, wherein The fatty chain allyl ether unit has the following formula (I):
CH ₂ = C (R ₁ ) CH ₂ OB _n R (I)
(Wherein R ₁ is selected from H and CH ₃ , B is an ethyleneoxy group, n is selected from zero and an integer ranging from 1 to 100, and R is an alkyl group, arylalkyl Hydrocarbons containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms selected from groups, aryl groups, alkylaryl groups and cycloalkyl groups, such as 10-24 carbon atoms, and still more eg 12-18 carbon atoms (Chosen from system group)
It corresponds to the monomer.

In one embodiment, the unit of formula (I) is a unit, for example, R ₁ may be H, n may be equal to 10, and R may be a stearyl (C ₁₈ ) group.

  This type of anionic amphiphilic polymer is described and prepared by the emulsion polymerization method in patent EP-0 216 479 B2.

  In one embodiment, the anionic amphiphilic polymer is, for example, 20% to 60% by weight acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5% to 60% by weight lower alkyl (meth) acrylate, 20% by weight. ~ 50% by weight of the fatty chain allyl ether of the formula (I), and 0% to 1% by weight of a cross-linking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, for example dialkyl phthalate, (meth) acrylic A polymer formed from allyl acid, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

  Examples of such polymers are cross-linked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl ether (steareth-10), for example sold under the names Salcare SC 80 and Salcare SC 90 by the company Ciba. This is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer (40/50/10) of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allyl ether.

The anionic amphiphilic polymer may further comprise, for example, at least one unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic, such as a (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid. You can choose from those containing sex units. The hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type is, for example, the following formula (II):

(Wherein R ¹ is selected from H, CH ₃ and C ₂ H ₅ , that is, an acrylic acid unit, a methacrylic acid unit and an ethacrylic acid unit)
It corresponds to the monomer. (C ₁₀ ~C ₃₀₎ type of hydrophobic units such as alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are, for example, the following formula (III):

[Wherein R ¹ is selected from H, CH ₃ and C ₂ H ₅ (that is, acrylic acid unit, methacrylic acid unit and ethacrylic acid unit) and, for example, H (acrylate unit) and CH ₃ (methacrylate) R ² is selected from a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl group, such as a C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl group]
It corresponds to the monomer.

Examples of (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids include lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, methacrylic acid Examples include stearyl, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

  According to one preferred embodiment, these thickening polymers are cross-linked.

  This type of anionic amphiphilic polymer is disclosed and prepared, for example, by US Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

Representative anionic amphiphilic polymers that can be used can be further selected from polymers formed from a mixture of monomers including:
(i) acrylic acid,
(ii) an ester of the above formula (III) (wherein R ² represents H or CH ₃ and R ³ represents an alkyl group having 12 to 22 carbon atoms), and
(iii) Crosslinkers that are well-known copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomers such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, allyl ether of sucrose, allyl ether of pentaerythritol, divinylbenzene, dimethacrylic acid (poly) Ethylene glycol and methylene bisacrylamide.

More particularly, in this type of copolymer, such as those described above, 95 to 60 wt% of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit ), and 0-6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or made of 98-96 wt% of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate having from 1 to 4 wt% (hydrophobic Unit) and 0.1 to 0.6% by mass of a crosslinkable polymerizable monomer.

According to the present invention, among the polymers above, acrylates / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name: acrylates / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate crosspolymer), for example, under the trade name Pemulen by Lubrizol Corp. The products sold under (registered trademark) TR1, Pemulen® TR2, Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer, Carbopol® 1382 and Carbopol® EDT 2020 are very particularly preferred.

  Among the anionic amphiphilic fatty chain polymers, mention may also be made, for example, of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / alkyldimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate ethoxylated copolymers sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by the company Amerchol. be able to.

  The (cc) cationic amphiphilic polymer used is selected, for example, from quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates containing amino side chains.

  Quaternized cellulose derivatives are for example quaternized cellulose modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example alkyl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, arylalkyl groups and alkylaryl groups, and mixtures thereof. And quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose modified with at least one fatty chain, for example an alkyl group containing at least 8 carbon atoms, an arylalkyl group and an alkylaryl group, and a group containing a mixture thereof.

Quaternized and non-quaternized polyacrylates containing amino side groups include, for example, hydrophobic groups such as steareth 20 (polyoxy-ethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol) and (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl PEG-20. Has itaconate.

  The alkyl groups carried by the quaternized cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose above contain, for example, 8-30 carbon atoms.

  The aryl group is selected from, for example, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a naphthyl group, and an anthryl group.

Examples of quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl celluloses containing C _{8 to} C ₃₀ fatty chains are the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C ₁₂ alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C ₁₈ alkyl) and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C ₁₂ alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C ₁₈ alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

  Examples of polyacrylates containing amino side chains are polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103, and Structure Plus from National Starch.

(dd) in the amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit, for example, methacrylamide propyl trimethyl ammonium chloride / acrylic acid / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl methacrylate (wherein And the alkyl group is, for example, a stearyl group).

Associative thickeners in the composition, for example, in solution or dispersion, at 25 ° C. using a Rheomat RM 180 rheometer, with a shear rate of 200 s ⁻¹ and a concentration of 1% active material in water. A viscosity of more than 0.1 ps, for example more than 0.2 cp.

  (ii) Among the cross-linked acrylic acid homopolymers that may be mentioned are those cross-linked with the sugar series of allyl alcohol ethers, for example sold by Goodrich under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 Products or products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3 VSA.

(iii) (meth) crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl acrylate, for example, a methacrylic acid as an aqueous dispersion containing 38% active material sold under the name Viscoatex 538C by Coatex Co. One can choose from cross-linked copolymers of ethyl acrylate and cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion containing 28% active material sold by Rohm & Haas under the name Aculyn 33. Crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate may include aqueous dispersions containing 30% active material sold under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 by NOVEON.

  (iv) Among the nonionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ester and / or amide type ethylenically unsaturated monomers, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names: Cynamer P250 Acrylamide), PMMA MBX-8C (methyl methacrylate / ethylene methacrylate ethylene glycol copolymer) by US Cosmetics, Acryloid B66 (butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer) by Rohm & Haas, and BPA 500 (methacrylic acid) by Kobo. Acid polymethyl).

  (v) Ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be mentioned include products sold by the company Hoechst under the name Microsap PAS 5193.

  Copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide include products sold by the company Hoechst under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 (this is the document FR-2 416 723, U.S. Pat.No. 2,798,053 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,923,692 is prepared).

  (c) It is preferred that the thickener is selected from polysaccharides.

  (vi) Polysaccharides include, for example, glucan, modified or unmodified starch (e.g., those derived from cereals, e.g., wheat, corn or rice, vegetables, e.g., yellow pea, and tubers, e.g. Potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextran, cellulose, and derivatives thereof (e.g., methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose), mannan, xylan, lignin, araban, galactan, galacturonan, Chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylan, arabinoxylan, xyloglucan, glucomannan, pectic acid and pectin, alginic acid and alginate, arabinogalactan, carrageenan, agar, g Kosa Mino glucan, gum arabic, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum, carob gum, galactomannans, for example guar gum, and nonionic derivatives thereof (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), and xanthan gum, as well as mixtures of these.

  For example, polysaccharides that can be used are, for example, “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology”, Kirk-Othmer, 3rd Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pages 896-900, and Volume 15, pages 439-458, “Polymers in Nature”. , EA MacGregor and CT Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pages 240-328, 1980, and `` Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives '', edited by Roy L. Whistler, 2nd edition, published by Academic Press Inc. The contents of these three publications are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

  For example, starch, guar gum, cellulose, and derivatives thereof can be used.

  Among the starches that can be used, mention may be made, for example, of macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising base units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the plant origin of the starch.

  The starch molecules used may have grains or tubers as their plant origin. Therefore, the starch can be selected from, for example, corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and bean starch.

  Starch is generally present in the form of a white powder, is insoluble in cold water, and its initial particle size ranges from 3 to 100 microns.

Tenpun may optionally be C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkylated or C ₁ -C ₆ acylated optionally (e.g. acetylation). Starch may also be subjected to heat treatment.

  Distarchiric acid or a compound rich in distilicinic acid, such as PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropylated cassava distarchilic acid), or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distorty acid), or PREJEL 200 ( Products provided in gelatinized acetylated cassava (distarchilic acid) may also be used.

  Guar gum may or may not be modified.

  Non-modified guar gum is, for example, a product sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by Meyhall.

Modified nonionic guar gums are, for example, modified with C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups.

  Among the hydroxyalkyl groups that may be mentioned are, for example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

  These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxide such as propylene oxide with guar gum to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

  The degree of hydroxyalkylation corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxy functional groups present in the guar gum and can range, for example, from 0.4 to 1.2.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by Rhodia Chimie (Meyhall), or Aqualon The company is sold under the name Galactasol 4H _4FD2 .

  Among the cellulose and cellulose derivatives used, such as cellulose modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, there are, for example, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and hydrophobized hydroxypropylmethylcellulose. Mention may be made of the products sold by Aqualon under the names Klucel E F, Klucel H, Klucel L H F, Klucel M F and Klucel G.

  (vii) Fatty alcohols used as thickeners do not contain polyoxyalkylenated groups and are selected, for example, from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

  (c) The thickener can be selected from polymer thickeners, preferably associative polymer thickeners, more preferably anionic associative polymer thickeners.

  (c) The thickener may be an acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.

  The amount of (c) thickener in the composition according to the invention may be 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.10% by weight or more, more preferably 0.15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The amount of (c) thickener in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.40% by mass or less, preferably 0.35% by mass or less, more preferably 0.3% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

  The amount of (c) thickener in the composition according to the present invention is 0.05% to 0.40% by weight, preferably 0.10% to 0.35% by weight, more preferably 0.15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be ˜0.30% by mass.

  The viscosity of the composition according to the invention can be measured at 25 ° C., preferably with a viscometer or rheometer having a cone-plan geometry.

The viscosity of the composition according to the invention is 40-1,000 Pa.s, preferably 100-800 Pa.s, more preferably 200-600 Pa.s, even more preferably at 25 ° C. under a shear rate of 0.02 sec ^−1. 300 to 400 Pa.s.

(water)
The composition according to the invention comprises (d) water.

  The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by mass or more, preferably 50% by mass or more, more preferably 60% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

  The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by mass or less, preferably 85% by mass or less, more preferably 80% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

  The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the invention is 40% to 90% by weight, preferably 50% to 85% by weight, more preferably 60% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be mass%.

  (d) Water can form the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention.

  When the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W type emulsion, (d) water in the composition according to the present invention can form a continuous aqueous phase in the O / W type emulsion.

  The aqueous phase may include any hydrophilic component such as a monohydric alcohol such as ethanol, and a polyol such as glycerin, which will be described later.

  The amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the invention is 45% to 95% by weight, preferably 55% to 90% by weight, more preferably 65% to 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Even more preferably, it may range from 70% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 75% to 85% by weight.

(Surfactant)
The composition according to the invention can comprise (e) at least one surfactant. When two or more surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

  Any surfactant may be used in the present invention. The (e) surfactant used in the present invention can be selected from the group consisting of an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a cationic surfactant and a nonionic surfactant. Two or more surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of surfactants can be used.

  (e) The surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants.

(Anionic surfactant)
According to the present invention, the type of anionic surfactant is not limited. Anionic surfactant, (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfate, (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkyl ether sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ sulfuric acid alkylamide ether, alkylaryl polyether and monoglyceride sulfate; ( C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfonates, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ sulfonic acid alkylamides, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylaryl sulfonates, sulfonic acid α- olefins and acid paraffins; (C ₆ ~C ₃₀ ) phosphoric acid alkyl; (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ sulfosuccinic acid alkyl, (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfosuccinates ether and (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ sulfosuccinic acid alkyl amide; (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl sulfoacetates ; (C ₆ -C ₂₄₎ sarcosinates acyl; (C ₆ -C ₂₄₎ acyl glutamates; (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic acid ether; (C ₆ -C ₃₀₎ sulfosuccinic acid alkyl polyglycosides; ( C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ sulfosuccinate Al Le; (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ acyl isethionates; N- (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ acyl taurates; C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acid salts; coconut oil acid salts or hydrogenated coconut oil acid salts; (C ₈ ~ C ₂₀₎ acyl lactylates (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl -D- galactosideuronic salts; polyalkylene reduction (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl ether carboxylates; polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkylaryl ether carboxylates; and polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkyl ether carboxylic acid salt.

Anionic surfactants may be selected (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ salts of sulfuric acid alkyl, or polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ ~C ₃₀₎ alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, and more preferred.

  In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, such as an alkali metal, such as a sodium salt, an alkaline earth metal, such as a magnesium salt, an ammonium salt, an amine salt, and an amino salt. Alcohol salt. Depending on the conditions, they may also be in the acid form.

(Amphoteric surfactant)
According to the present invention, the type of amphoteric surfactant is not limited. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives, such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, where Wherein the aliphatic group is a straight or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (e.g., carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate). .

  The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaine and amidoamine carboxylated derivatives.

The betaine type amphoteric surfactants are preferably from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylbetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ alkylamido (C ₁ ~C ₈₎ alkyl betaines, sulfo betaines, and (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ alkylamido (C ₁ ~C ₈₎ the group consisting of alkyl sulfobetaines. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant comprises (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl betaine, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylamide (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkyl sulfobetaine, sulfobetaine and phosphobetaine. To be elected.

  Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned are the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco / oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, alone or as a mixture, in the CTFA Dictionary, 9th edition, 2002. Includes compounds classified as palmitamidopropyl betaine, stearamide propyl betaine, cocamidoethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultain, oleamidopropyl hydroxysultain, cocohydroxylsultain, lauryl hydroxysultain and cocosultain It is.

  The betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkylbetaines and alkylamidoalkylbetaines, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.

Among the amidoamine carboxylated derivatives, they are described in U.S. Pat.Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and named in the CTFA Dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference. Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, which are classified as amphocarboxyglycinate and amphocarboxypropionate, each with the following structure:
^{_{R 1 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N +}} (R 2) (R 3) (CH 2 COO -)
(Where
R ₁ represents an alkyl group, heptyl group, nonyl group or undecyl group of the acid R ₁ -COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil;
R ₂ represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group,
R ₃ represents a carboxymethyl group), and
R ₁ '-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C)
(Where
B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX '
C represents-(CH ₂ ) _z -Y ', z = 1 or 2,
X ′ represents a —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOH group, —CH ₂ —COOZ ′, —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOH, —CH ₂ CH ₂ —COOZ ′, or a hydrogen atom,
Y ′ represents a —COOH, —COOZ ′, —CH ₂ —CHOH—SO ₃ Z ′ or —CH ₂ —CHOH—SO ₃ H group,
Z ′ represents an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium ion, ammonium ion, or an ion generated from an organic amine;
R ₁ ′ is an alkyl group of acid R ₁ ′ -COOH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, C _7, C ₉ , C ₁₁ or C ₁₃ alkyl group, C ₁₇ alkyl group, etc. Represents an alkyl group, as well as its isoform, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ group)
Have

Amphoteric surfactants, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ Anho monoacetate alkyl, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ Anho diacetate alkyl, (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ amphoacetates mono acid alkyl and (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ Preferably it is selected from alkyl amphodipropionates.

  These compounds are listed in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, lauroamphopropyrone. It is classified into disodium acid, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

  As an example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia Chimie under the trade name Miranol® C2M consentrate.

(Cationic surfactant)
According to the present invention, the type of cationic surfactant is not limited. The cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, optionally polyoxyalkylenated. Can do.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include the following:
Of the following general formula (I):

[Where
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ may be the same or different and optionally contain heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms. , Selected from linear and branched aliphatic groups. Aliphatic groups, e.g., alkyl group, alkoxy group, C ₂ -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene group, alkyl amide group, (C ₁₂ ~C ₂₂₎ alkylamido (C ₂ ~C ₆₎ alkyl group, (C ₁₂ ~ C ₂₂ ) alkylacetate and hydroxyalkyl groups; and aromatic groups such as aryl and alkylaryl; X ⁻ can be halide ion, phosphate ion, acetate ion, lactate ion, (C ₂ -C ₆ ) selected from alkyl sulfate ion and alkyl sulfonate ion or alkyl aryl sulfonate ion],
A quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline, for example of the formula (II):

[Where
R ₅ is selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as tallow or coconut fatty acid derivatives;
R ₆ is selected from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, and alkenyl groups and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ₇ is selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups;
R ₈ is selected from hydrogen and a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group;
X ⁻ is selected from halide ion, phosphate ion, acetate ion, lactate ion, alkyl sulfate ion, alkyl sulfonate ion and alkyl aryl sulfonate ion], but is not limited thereto. In one embodiment, R ₅ and R ₆ are, for example, a mixture of groups selected from alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as tallow fatty acid derivatives, R ₇ is methyl, R ₈ is hydrogen. Examples of such products include Quantanium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quotanium-83 (CTFA 1997) sold under the names `` Rewoquat® '' W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco;
Formula (III):

[Where
R ₉ is selected from aliphatic groups containing 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
R ₁₀ is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a (R _16a ) (R _17a ) (R _18a ) N ⁺ (CH ₂ ) ₃ group,
R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R _16a , R _17a and R _18a may be the same or different and are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms. ,
X ⁻ is selected from halide ion, acetate ion, phosphate ion, nitrate ion, ethyl sulfate ion and methyl sulfate ion], but is not limited thereto. Examples of such diquaternary ammonium salts are FINNETT CT-P (Quotanium-89) from FINETEX, or FINQUAT CT (Quotanium-75) from FINETEX; and a second containing at least one ester functional group. Quaternary ammonium salts, such as those of the following formula (IV):

[Where
R ₂₂ is selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups, and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups and dihydroxyalkyl groups;
R ₂₃ is
The following groups:

Linear and branched, C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radical R ₂₇ saturated and unsaturated, and are selected from hydrogen,
R ₂₅ is
The following groups:

Linear and branched, C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals R ₂₉ saturated and unsaturated, and are selected from hydrogen,
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different and are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{7 to} C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups;
r, s and t may be the same or different and are selected from integers in the range of 2-6;
each of r1 and t1 may be the same or different and is 0 or 1, r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + 2t = 2t;
y is selected from an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
x and z may be the same or different and are selected from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
X ⁻ is selected from a single anion and a complex anion, an organic anion and an inorganic anion, provided that the sum x + y + z is in the range of 1 to 15, and when x is 0, R ₂₃ is R ₂₇ And when z is 0, R ₂₅ represents R ₂₉ ]
It is. R ₂₂ can be selected from linear and branched alkyl groups. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from a linear alkyl group. In another embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from a methyl group, an ethyl group, a hydroxyethyl group, and a dihydroxypropyl group, such as a methyl group and an ethyl group. In one embodiment, the sum x + y + z ranges from 1-10. When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon group R ₂₇ , it may be long and contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or it may be short and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon group R ₂₉ it may contain, for example, 1 to 3 carbon atoms. As a non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R _24, R ₂₆ and R _28, which may be the same or different and linear and branched, saturated and C ₁₁ ~ unsaturated From C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups, for example, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups are selected. In another embodiment, x and z may be the same or different and are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s and t may be the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2. The anion X ⁻ can be selected, for example, from halide anions such as chloride anions, bromide anions and iodide anions, and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulfate anions such as methyl sulfate anions. However, methanesulfonate anion, phosphate anion, nitrate anion, tosylate anion, anions derived from organic acids such as acetate and lactate anions, and any other anions compatible with ammonium containing ester functional groups , Are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used in accordance with the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X ⁻ is selected from a chloride anion and a methylsulfate anion.

In another embodiment, an ammonium salt of formula (IV) can be used, where
R ₂₂ is selected from a methyl group and an ethyl group,
x and y are equal to 1,
z is equal to 0 or 1,
r, s and t are equal to 2,
R ₂₃ is
The following groups:

Methyl, ethyl and C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radical, and are selected from hydrogen,
R ₂₅ is
The following groups:

And hydrogen,
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R _{28, which} may be the same or different, are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C _{13 to} C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based groups, for example linear And branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

  In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.

  Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (IV) that may be mentioned include salts such as diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium chloride and methyl sulfate, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and methyl sulfate, mono Acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and methyl sulfate, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium chloride and methyl sulfate, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium chloride and methyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl group may comprise 14-18 carbon atoms, and may be derived from, for example, vegetable oils such as palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

  These products can be directly esterified, for example, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, to fatty acids or to mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin. Or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, which alkyl halides such as methyl halide and ethyl halide; dialkyl sulfates such as dimethyl sulfate and diethyl sulfate; methane Methyl sulfonate: selected from methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

  Such compounds are, for example, the name Dehyquart (registered trademark) by Cognis, the name Stepanquat (registered trademark) by Stepan, the name Noxamium (registered trademark) by Ceca and the name `` Rewoquat by Rewo-Goldschmidt ''. (Registered trademark) WE 18 ”.

  Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that can be used in compositions according to the present invention include ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, as described in US Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180. Can be mentioned.

  Among the above-mentioned quaternary ammonium salts which can be used in the composition according to the invention, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chloride, for example dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and alkyltrimethylammonium chloride ( Where the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms), e.g., behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; And stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold by the company Van Dyk under the name “Ceraphyl® 70”.

  According to one embodiment, cationic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are quaternary ammonium salts such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-83, quaternium-87, Selected from quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

(Nonionic surfactant)
Nonionic surfactants are compounds known per se or alone (see, for example, in this respect, “Handbook of Surfactants”, MR Porter, Blackie & Son Publishing (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178. See) Thus, nonionic surfactants can be selected, for example, from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, for example 8 It has at least one fatty chain containing ˜30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide groups is in the range of 2-50, and the number of glycerol groups is in the range of 1-30. Is possible. Mention may also be made of maltose derivatives. Non-limiting copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and fatty alcohols; for example polyethoxylated fatty amides containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; for example 1.5 to 5 Polyglycerolated fatty amides containing, for example, 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol ; glycerol (C ₆ ~C ₂₄₎ alkyl polyethoxylated fatty acid monoesters or diesters of polyglycosides; N- (C ₆ -C ₂₄₎ alkylglucamine derivatives; (C ₁₀ ~C ₁₄₎ alkylamine oxides or N- ( C ₁₀ -C ₁₄₎ such as acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides Mention may also be made of amine oxides; and mixtures thereof.

  The nonionic surfactant can preferably be selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. More specifically, the oxyalkylene unit is an oxyethylene or oxypropylene unit or a combination thereof, preferably an oxyethylene unit.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following:
Mono oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ ~C ₂₄₎ alkylphenols,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, mono oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohol,
Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, mono oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ amides,
Saturated or unsaturated, and C ₈ -C ₃₀ acid, linear or branched, esters of polyalkylene glycols,
Saturated or unsaturated, and C ₈ -C ₃₀ acid, linear or branched, of sorbitol, mono-oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylene esters,
Saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils,
In particular, condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, alone or as a mixture.

  The surfactant preferably contains between 1 and 100, most preferably between 2 and 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant does not contain any oxypropylene units.

  According to one embodiment of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprises polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol), polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (polyethylene glycol of fatty acid). Ester) and a mixture of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol and polyoxyethylenated fatty ester.

Examples of the polyoxyethylene fatty alcohols which may be mentioned (or C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohol), ethylene oxide adducts of lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, and more particularly 2 Containing 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Laureth-2 to Laureth-20); ethylene oxide adducts of behenyl alcohol, especially those containing 2-50 oxyethylene units, more particularly 2-20 Containing oxyethylene units (CTFA name Behenez-2 to Behenez-20); containing ethylene oxide adducts of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially containing 2 to 30 oxyethylene units What to do (in the CTFA name Cetheless-2 to Cetheless-30), ethylene oxide of cetyl alcohol Additives, especially those containing 2 to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA names ceteth-2 to ceteth-30); stearyl alcohol ethylene oxide adducts, especially those containing 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, More specifically, those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (in the CTFA name Steareth-2 to Steareth-20), isostearyl alcohol ethylene oxide adducts, especially those containing 2 to 50 oxyethylene units ( CTFA names include isosteares-2 to isosteares-50), and mixtures thereof.

  Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned are ethylene oxide adducts of esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units For example, PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA name from PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate), PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA name to PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate), PEG- 9 to PEG-50 stearate (in the CTFA name PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate), PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate, PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (in the CTFA name PEG- 9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate), polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.

  According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol.

  According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol comprising 2 to 9 ethylene oxide units and at least one fatty alcohol comprising 10 to 30 ethylene oxide units. To do.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohol has the formula:
RO- [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₂ OH) -O] _m -H or RO- [CH (CH ₂ OH) -CH ₂ O] _m -H
(In the formula, R represents a linear or branched C _{8 to} C ₄₀ , preferably a C _{8 to} C ₃₀ alkyl group or an alkenyl group, and m is a range of 1 to 30, preferably 1.5 to 10. Represents the number of
It corresponds to.

  Examples of compounds suitable in the context of the present invention include lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol glycerol, oleyl containing 4 mol glycerol. Alcohol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol glycerol Mention may be made of olecetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

  Alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols, just as the value of m represents a statistic, which means that in a commercial product several types of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture Means that.

Among monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, C ₈ / C ₁₀ alcohol containing 1 mol glycerol, C ₁₀ / C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1 mol glycerol, and C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1.5 mol glycerol. It is preferable to use it.

Mono- or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ fatty esters, the following formula:
R'O- [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₂ OR ''')-O] _m -R "or R'O- [CH (CH ₂ OR''')-CH ₂ O] _m -R"
Wherein each of R ′, R ″ and R ′ ″ is independently a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ , preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl-CO. -Group or alkenyl-CO- group, provided that at least one of R ′, R ″ and R ′ ″ is not a hydrogen atom, and m is a number in the range of 1-30, preferably 1.5-10. (Represent)
It can correspond to.

  Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned are ethylene oxide adducts of esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene units For example, PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA name from PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate), PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA name to PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate), PEG- 9 to PEG-50 stearate (in the CTFA name PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate), PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate, PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (in the CTFA name PEG- 9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate), polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 8-18. HLB is the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic part of the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described in “The HLB system. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).

  The amount of (e) surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.05% by mass or more, more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

  The amount of the (e) surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by mass or less, preferably 8% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

  The amount of (e) surfactant in the composition according to the invention is 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be ˜5% by mass.

(Other optional ingredients)
The composition according to the invention may also contain an effective amount of optional other ingredients such as various common adjuvants, anti-aging agents, (b) whitening agents other than ceramide compounds, anti-greasy skin agents, Sequestrants such as EDTA and etidronic acid, UV screening agents, preservatives, vitamins or provitamins such as panthenol, opacifiers, fragrances, plant extracts, cationic polymers and the like.

For example, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent. Therefore, the organic solvent is preferably water miscible. As organic solvents, for example C ₁ -C ₄ alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; may be mentioned, and mixtures thereof; similar products.

  The water-miscible organic solvent may be present in an amount in the range of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Preparation)
The composition according to the invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredients described above with the optional ingredients described above (if necessary).

  The method and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional methods and means can be used to prepare the composition according to the present invention by mixing the above essential ingredients and optional ingredients.

(Form)
The composition according to the invention is of the O / W type, preferably in the form of an O / W type emulsion, more preferably an O / W type gel emulsion.

  O / W-type structures or structures consisting of an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase have an external aqueous phase, so products based on O / W-type structures or structures will yield immediately It can be used more comfortably because of its freshness sensation.

  Since the composition according to the invention is of the O / W type, preferably in the form of an O / W type emulsion, more preferably an O / W type gel emulsion, the composition is in a continuous aqueous phase. Contains a dispersed oil phase. This dispersed oil phase can be seen as oil droplets in the aqueous phase.

  It may be preferred that the composition according to the invention is in the form of an O / W microemulsion, preferably a nanoemulsion or microemulsion, more preferably a nanoemulsion.

[Method and use]
The composition according to the invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic composition, more preferably as a skin cosmetic composition, even more preferably as a skin care cosmetic composition.

  The composition according to the invention may be used to wet keratin materials, wherein (b) ceramide compound is used as a humectant. The composition according to the invention may also be used to whiten or lighten keratin materials, wherein (b) ceramide compounds are used as whitening or lightening agents. The composition according to the invention is preferably intended for whitening of keratin materials.

  The keratin material can be skin, hair, mucous membranes such as lips, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and scalp. Skin herein includes facial skin and neck skin.

  The composition according to the invention is stable over time even at low and high temperatures.

  The composition according to the present invention can provide a fresh sensation after application, particularly a fresh sensation immediately after application. Therefore, a fresh sensation starts from the beginning of use and can be continued while in use.

  The composition according to the present invention can be used as it is (as a topical product), or it is soaked into a porous substrate such as a nonwoven fabric preferably made from cellulose fibers to prepare a cosmetic such as a cosmetic mask. Can be used.

  The composition according to the invention can be used for non-therapeutic methods, for example, cosmetic methods for treating keratinous substances such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the invention to keratinous substances. . The cosmetic method may be directed to wet or whitening of keratin materials, preferably whitening of keratin materials.

The present invention also provides
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one ceramide compound;
(d) in a composition in the form of an O / W containing water, (c) the use of at least one thickener,
The amount of (b) ceramide compound in the composition is 0.8% by mass or more based on the total mass of the composition,
The viscosity of the composition is controlled within the range of 40 to 1,000 Pa.s at 25 ° C. under a shear rate of 0.02 sec ⁻¹ , thereby causing no instability of the composition (b) at least It also relates to the use of promoting or improving skin penetration or skin absorption of one ceramide compound.

  The term “instability” is a phase separation that can be caused at certain temperatures, such as 4 ° C., room temperature (25 ° C.) and 45 ° C., during certain periods such as one week, one month and two months. Etc., which may include inhomogeneities over time, such as

  The explanations for (a) to (d) above for the composition according to the invention can also be applied to the explanation for the use according to the invention.

  The present invention will be described in more detail through examples. However, these examples should not be assumed to limit the scope of the invention.

(Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2)
The following compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. All numerical values for the amounts of ingredients shown in Table 1 are based on “mass%” of the active ingredient.

[Evaluation]
(viscosity)
The rheological profiles of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were examined at 25 ° C. using a stress-controlled rheometer (Discovery Hybrid Rheometer 2, TA Instrument). Viscosity was measured on a 40 mm parallel plate with shear changes from 0.01 sec ⁻¹ to 1000 sec ⁻¹ . Table 1 shows the rheological values at a low shear rate (0.02 sec ^-1 ).

  The composition according to Comparative Example 1 caused phase separation at 25 ° C. one day after its preparation and was therefore not stable, as its viscosity could not be measured.

(Penetration amount of active ingredient)
The penetration amount of ceramide (2-oleamide-1,3-octanediol) in each of the compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 was determined using pig flank skin. The experimental procedure is described in detail below.

Experimental procedure:
-Receptor fluid (RF) was prepared by mixing 4 g of Tween 80, 10 g of phosphate buffered saline and 86 g of water in a beaker and stirring until it was isotropic. The resulting RF had a pH value of 7.4.
-A static Franz cell with an exposed area of 2 cm ² and a receptor compartment of 3 ml was used.
-The stirrer was placed in the Franz cell and the receptor compartment was filled with RF.
-A 32mm diameter hole was drilled in the full thickness of frozen porcine flank skin. The skin thickness should be less than 2.5mm.
-The water bath was adjusted to obtain a skin temperature of 32 ° C ± 1 ° C.
A well-controlled amount of formulation (ie 5 mg / cm ² ) was applied on the skin surface.
-After 16 hours, the skin surface was washed with an appropriate protocol to ensure that all chemicals remaining on the skin surface were removed.
-The stratum corneum was removed by 30 continuous tape strips (DSquam) and extracted with methanol (10 ml). The methanol extract was filtered over Millex filter HV 0.45 μm and then LC / MS / MS analyzed.
-The remaining epidermis and dermis were extracted with methanol (5 ml). The methanol extract was filtered over Millex filter HV 0.45 μm and then LC / MS / MS analyzed.
-Three donors (n = 9) were used in triplicate for each formulation.

Table 2 shows the average amount of ceramide that passed through the flank skin of the pig (ng / cm ^{2 of} membrane).

  The result thus obtained was that a composition comprising an acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer in a range of 0.15 to 0.3% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, the polymer was 0.3% relative to the total mass of the composition. It shows that the penetration of ceramide can be increased to deeper skin layers (epidermis and dermis) compared to compositions containing in amounts greater than%.

  Furthermore, ex vivo skin penetration test results show that a composition having a viscosity of 40 to 1,000 Pa.s is more in the skin layer of the epidermis and dermis than a composition having a viscosity of 1,500 to 2,000 Pa.s. It clearly shows that high amounts of ceramide can be applied.

  Furthermore, although the amount of the polymer in the composition containing ceramide should be reduced to increase the penetration of ceramide into deeper skin layers, this removal will destabilize the composition. It has also been demonstrated that the polymer cannot be completely removed.

  Therefore, a balance between the performance of ceramide in terms of skin penetration and the stability of the composition is important, and this balance depends on the amount of the polymer used and consequently on the viscosity of the composition. Depends decisively.

Claims (15)

(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one ceramide compound;
(c) at least one thickener;
(d) a composition in the form of an O / W type containing water,
The amount of (b) ceramide compound in the composition is 0.8% by mass or more based on the total mass of the composition,
The viscosity is 40 to 1,000 Pa.s at 25 ° C. under a shear rate of 0.02 sec ⁻¹ ,
Composition.   2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (a) the oil is selected from ester oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.   The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (a) the oil is isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.   (a) The amount of oil is in the range of 1% to 30% by weight, preferably 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably 10% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3. (b) The ceramide compound has the formula (I):
[Where
R ₁ is:
A linear or branched C _{1 to} C ₅₀ , preferably C _{5 to} C ₅₀ hydrocarbon group, either saturated or unsaturated, which is an acid R ₇ COOH (R ₇ is optionally mono - or are polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₅ with an a) hydrocarbon one are esterified optionally or more hydroxyl groups A saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, wherein the hydroxyl (s) of the R ₇ group are optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated it is possible to have been esterified by C ₁ -C ₃₅ fatty acid,
- or R "- (NR-CO) R ' group (wherein, R represents a hydrogen atom, or a mono- - or are polyhydroxylated, preferably C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical which is mono-hydroxylated R ′ and R ″ are hydrocarbon groups whose sum of carbon atoms is between 9 and 30 and R ′ is a divalent group),
-Or R ₈ -O-CO- (CH ₂ ) _p group (wherein R ₈ represents a C _{1 to} C ₂₀ hydrocarbon group, and p is a various integer of 1 to 12)
Indicate
R ₂ is selected from a hydrogen atom, a sugar type group, in particular a (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m, or sulfogalactosyl group, sulfate or phosphate residue, phosphorylethylamine group and phosphorylethylammonium group, Where n is a diverse integer from 1 to 4, m is a diverse integer from 1 to 8,
R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₃₃ hydrocarbon group, wherein the hydroxyl (s) are an inorganic acid or an acid R ₇ COOH (R ₇ has the same meaning as above), where the hydroxyl (s) are (glycosyl) _n , (galactosyl) _m , sulfogalactosyl group, It can be etherified with a phosphorylethylamine group or a phosphorylethylammonium group, where n is a different integer from 1 to 4, m is a different integer from 1 to 8, and R _3, it is also possible substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₁₄ alkyl group,
R ₄ represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or an ethyl group, an optionally hydroxylated saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C _{3 to} C ₅₀ hydrocarbon group, or —CH ₂ —. CHOH—CH ₂ —OR ₆ group (wherein R ₆ represents a C _{10 to} C ₂₆ hydrocarbon group) or R ₈ —O—CO— (CH ₂ ) _p group (wherein R ₈ is C _{1 to} C ₂₀ hydrocarbon group, p is a variable integer of 1 to 12),
R ₅ represents a hydrogen atom, or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C _{1 to} C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, wherein the hydroxyl (1 Can be etherified with (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m, sulfogalactosyl group, phosphorylethylamine group or phosphorylethylammonium group, where n is 1-4. A variety of integers, m is a variety of integers from 1 to 8,
However, when R ₃ and R ₅ represent hydrogen, or when R ₃ represents hydrogen and R ₅ represents methyl, R ₄ does not represent a hydrogen atom, or a methyl group or an ethyl group]
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which is represented by:   (b) The ceramide compound is 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3- Diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N- [2-hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane-1,3-diol Any one of claims 1 to 5, selected from the group consisting of 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof. A composition according to claim 1.   (b) The amount of the ceramide compound is in the range of 0.8% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.9% to 10% by mass, more preferably 1.0% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6.   The (c) thickener is selected from polymer thickeners, preferably associative polymer thickeners, more preferably anionic associative polymer thickeners. Composition.   9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein (c) the thickener is an acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.   (c) The amount of the thickener is in the range of 0.05 mass% to 0.40 mass%, preferably 0.10 mass% to 0.35 mass%, more preferably 0.15 mass% to 0.30 mass%, based on the total mass of the composition. 10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein   11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising (e) at least one surfactant.   The composition according to claim 1, which is intended for whitening of a keratin substance.   A cosmetic method for treating a keratinous substance such as skin, the method comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 to a keratinous substance.   14. The cosmetic method according to claim 13, which is intended for whitening of a keratin substance. (a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one ceramide compound;
(d) in a composition in the form of an O / W containing water, (c) the use of at least one thickener,
The amount of (b) ceramide compound in the composition is 0.8% by mass or more based on the total mass of the composition,
The viscosity of the composition is controlled within the range of 40 to 1,000 Pa.s at 25 ° C. under a shear rate of 0.02 sec ⁻¹ , thereby causing no instability of the composition (b) at least Use to promote or improve skin penetration or skin absorption of one ceramide compound.