JPH06212525A - Elastic composite yarn and fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [Purpose] To provide an elastic composite yarn that has good processability during knitting and weaving, has excellent properties such as softness and dyeability, and that can easily control properties such as elastic stretchability. To do. [Structure] A coated elastic yarn in which a non-elastic short fiber is coated on a core yarn of an elastic filament and a non-elastic yarn made of spun yarn or filament yarn are loosely twisted in a twist direction opposite to the twist direction of the coated elastic yarn. The number of twists T times / inch and the total count N of the composite yarn satisfy the following formula. T ≦ 2.8 × N ^1/2 (1)

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to an elastic composite yarn,
Specifically, it is used for knitting or weaving fabrics, which are materials for various kinds of clothing, etc., and an elastic composite yarn in which the drawbacks thereof are improved while utilizing the high elastic stretchability of the elastic yarn, and such an elastic composite yarn It relates to the fabric obtained from.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Elastic threads such as polyether polyurethane elastic threads or polyester polyurethane elastic threads have a very high elastic elasticity and are knitted or woven into fabrics which are required to be elastic. As a material to be used, it is used for various purposes such as outerwear and innerwear.

However, elastic yarns are often inferior in surface texture and workability such as dyeing to ordinary non-elastic yarns. Therefore, in order to improve such defects, or
In order to adjust required characteristics such as elasticity which are different depending on the use, a composite yarn composed of an elastic yarn and an inelastic yarn is used. As a compound thread, around the elastic thread,
A non-elastic yarn or a coated elastic yarn coated with a non-elastic short fiber is known. By covering the elastic thread with an inelastic material,
The surface properties of the composite yarn approach that of non-elastic yarns, eliminating the drawbacks of elastic yarns. Further, since the elasticity of the entire composite yarn is controlled by the non-elastic material, it becomes easy to obtain desired characteristics such as elasticity. In particular, the coated elastic yarn in which the elastic yarn is coated with the non-elastic short fibers can be tightly covered around the elastic yarn with the non-elastic short fibers, and the elastic yarn is not exposed. You can Such coated elastic yarns are generally called core span yarns and widely used.

[0004]

However, the above-mentioned coated elastic yarn has a problem that the workability during knitting and weaving is poor, and the properties such as texture and dyeability of the obtained fabric are not sufficient. . Poor workability means, for example, that fuzz or cotton wool is likely to occur during knitting. this is,
In the coated elastic yarn in which the elastic yarn is coated with the non-elastic short fiber, the coated non-elastic short fiber causes fluffing due to frictional contact at the time of knitting, or falls off from the coated elastic yarn to generate cotton wool. is there. If the elastic yarn is coated with an inelastic yarn, or if the elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn are aligned or twisted together, the problem such as the above fluffing is unlikely to occur. Since the elastic yarn is easily exposed between the yarns, the surface characteristics are deteriorated. The poor workability occurs not only during knitting but also during weaving.

There are drawbacks in that the texture of the fabric is hard and inferior in softness. This is because the basic characteristic of the coated elastic yarn is determined by the ratio of the elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn, but in the conventional coated elastic yarn, in order to take advantage of the elastic characteristics of the elastic yarn, the non-elastic yarn with excellent softness is used. However, the softness of the whole covered elastic yarn was inferior. Further, in order to cover the elastic yarn with the non-elastic material such as the non-elastic short fiber or the non-elastic yarn, the non-elastic material must be closely arranged around the elastic yarn. Then, the obtained composite yarn is Even if an inelastic material is placed on the surface, it feels hard, dense and cold, and the fabric knitted with such a composite yarn is inferior in softness.

Regarding the problem of dyeability, as in the case of the above-mentioned problem of softness, since the proportion of the elastic yarn having poor dyeability is large, the dyeability of the whole coated elastic yarn is deteriorated and the non-elastic material is used. Since they are closely arranged around the elastic yarn, there has been a problem that the good dyeing property of the non-elastic material is hindered. Further, the conventional coated elastic yarn has a problem that it is difficult to control properties such as elasticity.

This is because in order to coat an elastic yarn with an inelastic short fiber or an inelastic yarn to form one covered elastic yarn, the ratio of the elastic yarn to the inelastic material is within an appropriate range in the spinning process. There is
If this ratio is changed significantly, the coated elastic yarn cannot be manufactured. Therefore, in the conventional covered elastic yarn, the properties such as elastic stretchability cannot be changed so much, the desired properties cannot be obtained, and the fields of use are limited.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the covered elastic yarn, to have good workability during knitting and weaving, and to have excellent properties such as softness and dyeability, and
An object of the present invention is to provide an elastic composite yarn capable of easily controlling properties such as elastic stretchability. Another object is to provide a fabric excellent in workability and use characteristics as described above.

[0009]

[MEANS FOR SOLVING THE PROBLEMS] An elastic composite yarn according to the present invention for solving the above-mentioned problems comprises a coated elastic yarn in which a non-elastic short fiber is coated on a core yarn of an elastic filament, and a spun yarn or a filament yarn. A composite yarn in which an inelastic yarn is loosely twisted in a twisting direction opposite to the twisting direction of the coated elastic yarn, and the number of twists of this composite yarn is T times / inch and the total count N.
However, the following relation is satisfied.

T ≦ 2.8 × N ^1/2 (1) The coated elastic yarn is basically the same as the coated elastic yarn that has been used for various purposes, so-called core span yarn. Used. The elastic filaments are made of various elastic materials such as polyether polyurethane and polyester polyurethane which are used for ordinary elastic yarns, and are obtained by ordinary spinning means. The thickness of the elastic filament used is about 20 to 150 d.

As the non-elastic short fibers, usual short fiber materials such as cotton, polyester, acrylic, wool, rayon, nylon, acetate and silk are used. The length of the non-elastic short fibers is about 25 to 120 mm, and the thickness is about 0.5 to 6 d. The method for coating the elastic filaments with the non-elastic short fibers may be the same as the method for producing a usual coated elastic yarn. The ratio of elastic filaments to inelastic short fibers is 2 to 28 for elastic filaments to inelastic short fibers.
% Is a preferable ratio. The coated elastic yarn is obtained in a twisted state. The twisting direction at this time may be any, but is generally the Z direction. The number of twists can be appropriately changed depending on the application and required characteristics, but is usually about 9.0 to 36.0 turns / inch.

Non-elastic yarns twisted with the above-mentioned covered elastic yarns include cotton yarns, polyester yarns, acrylic yarns, wool yarns, rayon yarns, nylon yarns, acetate yarns, silk yarns, and
Spun yarns such as these blended yarns, or filament yarns such as nylon, polyester, and rayon are used. The thickness of the non-elastic yarn varies depending on the use and the required characteristics, but in the spun yarn, it is usually 10 to 80 ^S ( ^S means cotton count or single yarn. It is about 20% for filament yarn.
The thing of about 150 d is used. The non-elastic yarn may be twisted. In the case of spun yarn, the twisting direction in this case is preferably matched with the twisting direction of the coated elastic yarn. For example, if the twisting direction of the coated elastic yarn is the Z direction, the twisting direction of the non-elastic yarn is also , Z direction. In the case of filament yarn, the twisting direction does not have to be aligned with the coated elastic yarn. The number of twists can be appropriately set, but in the case of spun yarn, about 9 to 36 times / inch is adopted, and in the case of filament yarn, about 0 to 30 times / m is adopted.

The elastic composite yarn of the present invention is obtained by twisting the coated elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn as described above. In order to obtain the elastic composite yarn, a usual twisting means such as a ring machine, a double twister machine, and an up twister machine is applied. When the non-elastic yarn is spun yarn, it is preferable to use a double twister machine, and when it is filament yarn, it is preferable to use a ring machine.

When twisting the coated elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn, the twisting direction is set to the opposite direction to the twisting direction of the coated elastic yarn. For example, if the twist direction of the covered elastic yarn is the Z direction, the twist of the covered elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn is set in the S direction. In addition, the covered elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn are twisted loosely as compared with the twisting when manufacturing a normal yarn. Conventionally, depending on how the yarns are twisted together, they are classified as sweet twisted yarns, normal yarns, and strongly twisted yarns. In the present invention, loosely twisting includes a range of so-called sweet twisting to a range of less twisting. Further, in the present invention, specifically, the number of twists T times / inch of the composite yarn and the total count N are set so as to satisfy the relationship of the following formula.

T ≦ 2.8 × N ^1/2 (1) Further preferably, when the non-elastic yarn is a spun yarn, T ≦ 2.0 × N ^1/2 (2) The non-elastic yarn is a filament In the case of yarn, T ≦ 2.5 × N ^1/2 (3)

Within the range satisfying the above conditions, the specific twist number T is preferably about 1 to 12 times / inch for spun yarn, and 4 to 20 for filament yarn.
Times / inch is desirable. In the above formulas (1), (2) and (3), the total number N is a single yarn conversion calculated from the yarn constitution of the covered elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn to evaluate the number of the whole composite yarn. It is a number that represents the count. The method for calculating the total count may be the same as the method for calculating the single-yarn converted count for known twin yarns and the like.

The elastic composite yarn obtained as described above is
Conventional knitting or weaving methods can be applied to produce knitted fabrics and fabrics or fabrics with any structure. The fabric may be manufactured using only the elastic composite yarn of the present invention, or the fabric may be produced by knitting or weaving the elastic composite yarn of the present invention and other spun yarns, covered elastic yarns, filament yarns and the like. Can also be manufactured. On the fabric,
If necessary, various kinds of processing and dyeing can be performed. The elastic composite yarn may be dyed in advance and processed into a fabric.

[0018]

[Function] When the coated elastic yarn in which the non-elastic short fiber is coated on the core yarn of the elastic filament and the non-elastic yarn made of spun yarn or filament yarn are loosely twisted, the non-elastic yarn is loosened around the coated elastic yarn. An elastic composite yarn having a structure covered with the above is obtained. Since the non-elastic yarn that gently covers the outer periphery of the elastic composite yarn has a softer feel than the elastic yarn or the covered elastic yarn, the softness of the entire elastic composite yarn is improved. Since the non-elastic yarn has good processability for various processes such as dyeing process, the dyeability and processability of the entire elastic composite yarn are improved. As the non-elastic thread is added to the coated elastic thread, the ratio of the elastic thread and the non-elastic material increases, and the proportion of the non-elastic material increases.
The excessive elasticity of the elastic yarn is suppressed.

Many of the conventional coated elastic yarns have too strong elastic stretchability, and when the knitted fabric is manufactured, problems such as raw creases, wrinkles, center marks, skewing and curling occur, and the woven fabric is Although there was a problem of washing shrinkage when manufactured, the elastic composite yarn of the present invention moderately suppresses the elastic stretchability of the covered elastic yarn with the loosely twisted non-elastic yarn. All the problems are solved.

When the elastic composite yarn is loosely twisted in a twisting direction opposite to the twisting direction of the covered elastic yarn, the untwisted direction of the covered elastic yarn or both the covered elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn is untwisted. Torque acts on the coated elastic yarn and the coated elastic yarn shrinks due to elastic elasticity, so that the non-elastic yarn around the coated elastic yarn forming the core has an appropriate range in which the desired effect can be achieved.
It is possible to form a gently twisted state.

When the coated elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn are twisted together, the twisted state varies depending on the thickness of the coated elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn even if the number of twists is the same. That is,
Even if they are twisted loosely, the appropriate number of twists will be different if the thickness of the coated elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn changes.
Therefore, in the present invention, the number of twists is set so that the number of twists T times / inch and the total count N of the elastic composite yarn satisfy the above expression (1). By setting the number of twists in this way, a loose twisted state suitable for achieving the object of the present invention can be reliably obtained regardless of the thickness of the covered elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn.

If the number of twists of the elastic composite yarn is adjusted within the above range, for example, if the number of twists is set to be large, the elastic stretchability is suppressed, and if the number of twists is set to be small, the elastic stretch is set. It is possible to easily obtain an elastic composite yarn having appropriate elasticity and elasticity depending on the application such as high elasticity. The adjustment of the number of twists is effective for controlling the strength and other yarn characteristics in addition to the elastic elasticity described above.

The twisted state with the coated elastic yarn differs depending on whether the non-elastic yarn is a spun yarn or a filament yarn. Therefore, by adopting the condition of the formula (2) in the case of spun yarn and the condition of the formula (3) in the case of filament yarn, the twisting condition most suitable for each yarn can be set.

[0024]

EXAMPLES Elastic composite yarns as examples of the present invention, and various composite yarns as comparative examples were produced, and further,
Various fabrics were manufactured using the obtained composite yarn, and the performance was evaluated. -Example 1-After producing a composite yarn, a plain knitted fabric was produced by a circular knitting machine. Tables 1 to 3 show the manufacturing conditions such as the yarn structure and knitting structure, and the evaluation results. In the table, the following abbreviations were used.

CSY: Core span yarn. A coated elastic yarn made by covering a polyurethane filament yarn with a short fiber. T-127: Spandex T-127 (trade name, manufactured by Toray Dupont Co., Ltd., polyurethane elastic yarn) NF: Nylon filament (long fiber) Each evaluation item was judged by the following evaluation criteria from the viewpoint described below.

⊚: Very good ◯: Good Δ: Slightly inferior ×: Inferior knitting productivity: Does fluffing or yarn breakage occur during knitting? Process productivity: Does the knitted fabric show no breaks or wrinkles? Center mark: Does the center mark appear when knitting, or can the center mark be easily eliminated?

Printability: When printed on a knitted fabric,
Is the pattern and color printed well? Fabric softness: Is the feel of the knitted fabric soft? Skew: Is there a skew in the knitted fabric? Curling: Does curling or warpage occur at the end of the knitted fabric? Color depth: Is the color of the dyed fabric deep?

[0028]

[Table 1] ───────────────────────────────── Example 1.1 Example 1.2 Example 1.3 ──── ───────────────────────────── Thread type CSY / Cotton thread CSY / Cotton thread CSY / Cotton thread Twisted twisted Twisted thread thickness 34.3 ^S 30.8 ^S 26.7 ^S CSY core thread T-127 20D T-127 20D T-127 20D 〃 Sheath thread Cotton short fiber 80 ^S Cotton short fiber 80 ^S Cotton short fiber 80 ^S 〃 Twisting direction Z Z Z Inelastic thread Cotton thread 60 ^S Cotton thread 50 ^S Cotton thread 40 ^S Composite thread Number of twists 4 4 4 〃 Twist direction S SS S ──────────────────────── ────────── Hen organization Tenjiku Tenjiku Tenjiku Cage 24G 24G 24G ──────────────────────────────── ── Knitting productivity ◎ ◎ ◎ Processing productivity ○ ○ ○ Print △ ○ ○ △ ～ ○ △ ～ ○ Printability ○ ○ ○ Fabric softness ◎ ◎ ◎ Diagonality ○ ○ ○ Curling property △ ~ ○ △ ~ ○ △ ~ ○ Color depth ◎ ◎ ◎ ───── ────────────────────────────

[0029]

[Table 2] ──────────────────────────────── Example 1.4 Example 1.5 Comparative Example 1.1 ───── ─────────────────────────── Thread type CSY / Cotton yarn CSY / Long fiber CSY alone Twisted twisted Thread thickness 21.8 ^S 51.9 ^S 30 ^S CSY core yarn T-127 20D T-127 20D T-127 40D 〃 Sheath yarn Cotton short fiber 80 ^S Cotton short fiber 80 ^S Cotton short fiber 30 ^S 〃 Twisting direction Z Z Z Inelastic yarn Cotton yarn 30 ^S NF 36D-13-Number of twists of composite yarn 4 15- 〃 Twisting direction S S- ──────────────────────────────── ──Editing organization Tenjiku Tenjiku Tenjiku Cage 22G 28G 24G ──────────────────────────────── Knitting productivity ◎ ◎ △ Processing productivity ○ ○ × ~ △ Center mark △ ~ ○ △ ~ ○ × Printability ○ ○ △ Fabric softness ◎ ◎ × ~ △ Skewability ○ ○ × ~ △ Curling property △ ~ ○ △ ~ ○ × Color depth ◎ ◎ △ ───────────── ────────────────────

[0030]

[Table 3] ───────────────────────────────── Comparative Example 1.2 Comparative Example 1.3 Comparative Example 1.4 ──── ───────────────────────────── Thread type CSY / Cotton thread CSY / Cotton thread CSY / Long fiber Alignment Stranding Stranding Thread thickness 21.8 ^S 34.3 ^S 52 ^S CSY core yarn T-127 20D T-127 20D T-127 20D 〃 Sheath yarn Cotton short fiber 80 ^S Cotton short fiber 80 ^S Cotton short fiber 80 ^S 〃 Twisting direction Z Z Z Inelastic yarn Cotton yarn 30 ^S Cotton yarn 60 ^S NF 36D-13 Number of twists of composite yarn 0 15 30 〃 Twisting direction-SS ──────────────────────── ────────── Hen organization Tenjiku Tenjiku Tenjiku Cage 22G 24G 28G ──────────────────────────────── ── Knitting productivity × ○ ○ Processing productivity △ △ ~ ○ △ ~ ○ Center mark × △ △ Printability △ △ △ Fabric softness △ × ~ △ × ~ △ Skewability × ~ △ △ △ Curling property × △ △ Depth of color △ △ △ ─────────── ────────────────────── In the above evaluation test results, Comparative Example 1.1 is a case where the coated elastic yarn is used alone, and Comparative Example 1.2 is In this case, the covered elastic yarn is just aligned with the non-elastic yarn but not twisted. On the other hand, when the coated elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn are twisted together as in each example, knitting productivity, fabric softness, depth of color, etc. are significantly improved. I understand.

Further, as in Comparative Examples 1.3 and 1.4, when the number of twists at the time of producing the elastic composite yarn is out of the specified range of the present invention, the fabric softness is inferior and sufficient performance is obtained. It turns out that is not being exhibited. -Example 2-After producing a composite yarn, a plain woven fabric was produced in an air jet loom. Table 4 shows the manufacturing conditions such as the yarn structure and the woven structure, and the evaluation results. Abbreviations and evaluation criteria in the table are
This is similar to the case of the first embodiment. Among the evaluation items, the items different from those of Example 1 are as follows.

Stretchability: Is there appropriate stretchability in the vertical and horizontal directions? Texture: Is the surface appearance and texture soft? Workability: Is it easy to carry out uniform processing with a certain amount? Dyeability: Was it dyed well in the intended color? Washing shrinkage: Doesn't shrinkage occur after washing the fabric?

[0033]

[Table 4] ───────────────────────────────── Example 2.1 Example 2.2 Comparative example 2.1 ──── ───────────────────────────── Yarn type CSY / cotton yarn CSY / long fiber CSY / cotton yarn twisted twisted twisted twisted yarn 34.3 ^S 51.9 ^S 34.3 ^S CSY core yarn T-127 20D T-127 20D T-127 20D 〃 Sheath yarn Cotton short fiber 80 ^S Cotton short fiber 80 ^S Cotton short fiber 80 ^S 〃 Twisting direction Z Z Z Inelastic yarn Cotton yarn 60 ^S NF 36D-13 Cotton yarn 60 ^S Composite yarn Number of twists 4 15 23 〃 Twisting direction S S S ────────────────────── ──────────── Woven structure Plain weave Plain weave Plain weave Woven yarn Vertical cotton yarn 100/2 Cotton yarn 50 ^S Cotton yarn 100/2 Horizontal Above composite yarn Above composite yarn Above composite yarn Density book / inch Vertical 75 Vertical 135 Vertical 75 (weaving condition) Co 60 Width 74 Width 60 ───────────────────────────────── Stretchability ○ ○ △ Texture ○ ○ △ Workability ◎ ◎ ○ Dyeability ◎ ◎ ○ Washing shrinkage ◎ ◎ ○ ───────────────────────────────── Above evaluation test From the results, it is understood that the elastic composite yarn and the fabric of the present invention can exert excellent effects even in the case of the woven fabric. In Comparative Example 2.1, the number of twists of the composite yarn is out of the specified range of the present invention, and it is understood that the stretchability and the texture are inferior.

-Example 3-After producing the composite yarn, a plain knitted fabric (rope pattern knitted fabric) was produced by a flat knitting machine. Table 5 shows the manufacturing conditions such as the yarn structure and the woven structure, and the evaluation results. The abbreviations and evaluation criteria in the table are the same as in Example 1. Among the evaluation items, the items different from those in Examples 1 and 2 are as follows.

Morphological stability: Is there a loss of shape during wearing and deformation during washing?

[0036]

[Table 5] ───────────────────────── Example 3.1 Comparative Example 3.1 ──────────────── ────────── Thread type CSY / Cotton thread CSY / Cotton thread Twisted Twisted Thread thickness 8.9 ^S 8.9 ^S CSY core thread T-127 20D T-127 20D 〃 Sheath thread Cotton Short fiber 80 ^S Cotton Short fiber 80 ^S 〃 Twisting direction Z Z Inelastic yarn Cotton yarn 20/2 Cotton yarn 20/2 Composite yarn Number of twists 4 13 〃 Twisting direction S S ─────────────── ─────────── Edition Organization Plane Change Edition Plane Change Edition Cage 12G 12G ────────────────────────── ◎ ○ Processing productivity ○ ○ Fabric softness ◎ △ Skewability ○ △ Color depth ◎ ○ Morphological stability ◎ △ ─────────────────────── ─── From the results of the above evaluation test, It can be seen that the elastic composite yarn and the fabric can exert excellent effects even in the case of the flat knitted fabric. In Comparative Example 3.1, the number of twists of the composite yarn is out of the specified range of the present invention, and it is understood that the softness of the fabric and the morphological stability are inferior.

[0037]

As described above, in the elastic composite yarn according to the present invention, the coated elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn are loosely twisted under the above-mentioned conditions, so that the knitted fabric is woven as compared with the conventional coated elastic yarn. It has good processability, excellent properties such as softness and dyeability, and can exhibit appropriate elastic stretchability.

Particularly, by appropriately adjusting the number of twists within the above-mentioned condition range, it is possible to exert appropriate elastic stretchability in accordance with the purpose of use and the required performance. The composite elastic yarn has properties that cannot be prevented. The fabric obtained from the composite elastic yarn as described above has excellent elasticity and elasticity, and also has excellent properties such as softness and dyeability, and is a material excellent in design and wearing feeling as various clothing and the like. Can be provided.

(72) Inventor Masatoshi Sugano 2-39-5-101 Makizukadai, Sakai-shi, Osaka (72) Inventor Shoichi Hayashi 3-4-1-18 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Osaka Toray DuPont Osaka Sales Office ( 72) Inventor Takeshi Yanagawa, 3-4-18 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Osaka Toray DuPont Osaka Sales Office

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A coated elastic yarn in which a non-elastic short fiber is coated on a core yarn of an elastic filament and a non-elastic yarn made of spun yarn or filament yarn are loosened in a twist direction opposite to the twist direction of the coated elastic yarn. An elastic composite yarn, which is a composite yarn formed by twisting, wherein the number of twists T times / inch and the total count N of the composite yarn satisfy the relationship of the following formula. T ≦ 2.8 × N ^1/2 (1) 2. The elastic composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the non-elastic yarn is a spun yarn, and the number of twists T times / inch of the composite yarn and the total count N satisfy the following expression. T ≦ 2.0 × N ^1/2 (2) 3. The elastic composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the non-elastic yarn is a filament yarn, and the number T of twists / inch of the composite yarn and the total count N satisfy the following expression. T ≦ 2.5 × N ^1/2 (3) 4. A fabric woven using the elastic composite yarn according to claim 1.