JPH0621396B2 - Manufacturing method of multicolor weft kasuri fabric with turtle shell kasuri - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial field of application] The present invention relates to a method for producing a multicolor weft kasuri fabric in which kagamekasuri or cross kasuri and various kasuri patterns are mixed and a multicolor weft kasuri fabric is arranged. is there.

[Problems to be Solved by Prior Art and Invention]

Traditionally, Yuki tsumugi is the most expensive type of Kasuri fabric.

This woven fabric is expressed in various colors such as fine flower patterns, and the vertical and horizontal crossed Kasuri such as Kame Kasuri and Cross Kasuri are expressed everywhere.

In order to express such a complex multi-colored Kasuri pattern, weft sosuri processing must be adopted.

In this weft processing, weft yarns for a large number of fabrics are bundled into one bundle, and the width and interval of each Kasuri are selected according to the prepared multicolor original drawing, and the yarn bundle is colored according to the Kasuri pattern. It is carried out.

If there is a pattern of 5 colors, the coloring process is repeated 5 times, or the 5 colors are used and the coloring process is performed according to the color original drawing.

In addition, wefts for cross and cross patterns are also made in the same way, such as the Kasuri pattern and the cross pattern. In this case, the Kasuri processing of the warp must be performed in the same manner.

As a result, the processing of Kasuri became very troublesome, resulting in expensive fabrics.

By the way, explain why Yuki Tsumugi must stretch the weft yarns for a long time and color them according to the color pattern according to the Kasuri pattern of the original color. A color original drawing with multicolored flower patterns and dark (eg black) turtle shells is made as large as possible, so based on this color original drawing, wefts are wound on thin plates to print parallel wefts. Even if a pattern, for example, a screen type, is manufactured, the yarn density of the parallel wefts wound on the board must be made to have an interval for printing, so that it does not match the printing type made based on the color original diagram, and the type printing is not possible. It will be possible.

Therefore, it is unavoidable that the thread is stretched for a long time, and the threading process, that is, the troublesome coloring operation of measuring the color interval and the color width according to the color original drawing for each color and repeating the coloring must be repeated. (In this case, warp crossovers like Kasuri Kasuri and Cross Kasuri also require warp processing, but since this point is the same in the present invention, the explanation here is omitted.) In the case of a weft cloth with all weft colors, all of the weft threads are woven in parallel on the front and back of the thin board according to the repetition of the weft threads on the thin board that matches the width of the weft, and the parallel weft can be printed from above. If a pattern can be created from a product-sized color original drawing, and even if it is possible to print the above-mentioned plate-wound parallel wefts for each color according to the original color illustration,
Furthermore, Yuki pongee will be easily mass-produced if it is possible to print the cross pattern of the turtle shell and the cross.

However, the width of the printing type must be set to the opposite width, but the upper and lower lengths must be the printing type in which the vertically long rectangular printing window of Kame Kasuri can be pierced vertically. Therefore, it is impossible to print with the printing type made based on the original color chart of the product size, and if it is not possible to print the Kamekou Kasuri with the printing type, a multicolor weft Kasuri fabric with Kamekou Kasuri mixed is produced by this technique. Can not.

For that reason, it was necessary to perform a coloring process for the troublesome tension yarn.

The present inventor is an expert in Kasuri processing and weaving and weaving, and has carried out various Kasuri processing methods. The Kasuri processing that repeatedly prints is extremely efficient and has been carried out for decades, but I have been wondering whether Itsuki can be made with this board printing method.

However, at the moment when I learned that there is a system that can extend the document vertically and horizontally with a recent copying machine, the simple mass production system of Yuki Tsumugi, which has been a long-cherished desire, came to light.

Immediately after conducting a trial test based on the inspiration, it was confirmed that the pongee was multicolored so that even professionals could not distinguish it from the real Yuki pongee, and that a product in which the turtle shell Kasuri was also expressed could be made. Since it costs much less than the conventional Yuki pongee to set the price, we succeeded in manufacturing it at such a low price that we were wondering how much the price should be.

[Means for Solving the Problems]

 The gist of the present invention will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

Do you want to make a color original drawing by coloring a complete pattern with almost the same size as the product you want to weave and coloring and stretching this color original only in the vertical direction based on the vertical stretched color original? Or, based on the color original drawing, a color-specific original drawing for making a printing type is prepared for each color, and this color-specific original drawing is stretched only in the vertical direction. We also made a weft-printing type of weft yarns with a cross-kasuri pattern such as a tortoiseshell and a cross, and using this multiple-sheet printing type, weft-printing processing is carried out by the conventional thin-plate weft-printing technique, The present invention relates to a method for producing a multicolor weft general kasuri fabric in which a kasuri pattern is arranged, which is characterized in that a Kasuri weft is woven by using the Kasuri weft, the Kasuri weft for crossing and crossing Kasuri, and the warp and the Kasuri warp.

[Work]

A complete color original is stretched vertically only with a color copier.

This magnification is the same as the printing type for printing Kame Kasuri, since it has to have a printing window in which vertically long rectangles matching the parallel wefts wound on a thin sheet of anti-width are arranged in multiple rows in the upper and lower rows. It will be extended.

For example, if the two windings are most often used and the two are aligned at an interval of 2mm in the vertical direction, the printing window of the printing type created based on the original drawing with the vertical stretch is perfect. A complete color original is stretched only in the longitudinal direction so that the parallel wefts on the front and back that are wound on a thin plate with two drawn and aligned threads can be printed.

For example, put a transparent film on this vertical stretched color original drawing,
A negative for red, which is coated with light-shielding paint only on the red part, is manufactured, and a screen printing type for red is manufactured from this negative.

Similarly, from negative for blue to screen printing for blue, negative for green to screen for green ...

Also, in the same way, make a screen printing pattern for the turtle shell from the turtle shell negative.

These multiple screen printing dies are used one after the other, and the parallel wefts on the front and back are wound on a thin sheet of anti-width, and then the Kasuri layer is printed by the conventional method. Kasuri fabric is easily mass produced.

〔Example〕

I. First of all, make a so-called Yuki Tsumugi original color diagram 1 you want to make as usual.

At least the width is anti-width and a perfect pattern is required to assume the appearance of the product.

II. Stretching process (1) Stretch the original color diagram 1 only vertically.

This magnification is according to the magnification of the color copier and is stretched to a length suitable for making a printing pattern for turtle shell kasuri.

(2) A transparent film is overlaid on this stretched vertically stretched color original diagram 2, and first, a light-shielding paint is applied to the red portion in accordance with the red color to manufacture the red negative 3R.

Similarly, the negative 3G for green is manufactured.

From this negative for green 3 ・ R to screen printing type for red 4 ・
R from negative for green 3 ・ G to screen printing type for green 4 ・
Produce G.

This screen printing type 4 is manufactured by changing the order of the steps, directly overlaying the transparent film on the original color diagram 1, and applying the light-shielding paint to the red portion according to the red color to make the negative for the red color. It is also possible to use a method in which the red negative 3 * R is produced by stretching it in the vertical direction only and then the red screen printing die 4 * R is produced.

In addition, the method of making a printing type 4 for each color from the original color diagram 1 is the most suitable for mass production by the technique of making a screen type, but other techniques such as hand-cutting of the printing window, punch technique in the case of Kame Kasuri and Cross Kasuri. There are various ways.

Furthermore, it would be more convenient if the color copier could automatically select and expand the colors.

5 colors above (if black is Kagame Kasuri, 5 printing patterns can be made.) (3) Using these 5 printing patterns 4, the parallel wefts 6 wound on the thin cloth 5 of opposite width are printed from the front and back. Overprinting is carried out to produce a total Kasuri printing.

(4) As for the warp, as in the past, one warp (two warps may be processed in parallel by arranging two warps) is arranged on the printing plate, and the warp for the turtle shell and cross kasuri expressed by the weft crossover. The process of laying out the details is performed according to the printing type.

(5) This warp is warped on a loom, and the weft inserts described above are put into the weft insertion, and the Kaiko Kasuri fabric is obtained by combining the warp and weft fabrics to obtain a multicolor weft sosuri fabric.

〔The invention's effect〕

Since the present invention is configured as described above, it exhibits excellent features such as the mass production of multicolored weft total Ikat fabrics at an extremely low cost.

[Brief description of drawings]

The drawings show one embodiment of the present invention. Fig. 1 is a front view of a part of a color original drawing, Fig. 2 is a front view of a part of a vertically stretched color original drawing, and Fig. 3 is a front view of a part of a negative for red. Fig. 4 is a front view of a part of the negative for green, Fig. 5 is a front view of a part of the negative for black,
FIG. 6 is a front view of a part of the red printing type, FIG. 7 is a front view of a part of the green printing type, FIG. 8 is an enlarged front view of a part of the black printing type, and FIG. Front view of a part of the parallel wefts,
10 is a front view of a part of the printing state.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A color original drawing in which a complete pattern is colored and colored to be approximately the same size as a product to be woven, and a color-oriented printing is performed based on a vertically stretched original color drawing which is stretched only in the vertical direction. Make a pattern or make a color-based original drawing for printing a pattern by color based on the color original drawing, and then stretch this color-based original drawing only in the vertical direction. We made a weft-printing pattern for wefts, and weaving patterns for wefts with crossed wefts, such as turtle shells and crosses, in the same way. A process for producing a multicolored weft cloth with multicolored wefts, which is characterized by performing a textile printing process, and carrying out a weft pattern weaving by using this weft thread, the weft thread for crossing and crossing the weft, and the warp and the weft warp.