JPWO2019093254A1 - Skin cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention is a skin cosmetic containing a whitening agent, which has an appropriate hardness to stand on the skin and a jelly-like feel, and is excellent in penetrating feeling when applied to the skin. The purpose is to provide new skin cosmetics. The present invention is: (a) a whitening agent selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbic acid glucoside; (b) polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20; (c) high water solubility of 0.15% by mass or more. Molecules; (d) one or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18-C28) ethers and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil; and (e) containing water and viscosity at 30 ° C. Provided is a skin cosmetic containing a value in the range of 3,000 to 10,000 mPa · s.

Description

The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic containing a whitening agent. More specifically, the present invention relates to a skin cosmetic having an appropriate hardness enough to stand on the skin, having a jelly-like tactile sensation, and having an excellent permeation into the keratin when applied to the skin.

The basic functions of skin care cosmetics include cleaning / cleaning, anti-drying, anti-ultraviolet rays, antioxidants, and activation. In addition, there are skin care cosmetics that have functions such as whitening, improving wrinkles and sagging, and preventing acne. It is said that skin care cosmetics are mainly used in the order according to the so-called "beauty system". This beauty system is a system in which makeup is removed with a facial cleanser, the skin is washed, hydrated (moisturized) with a lotion, and then a beauty essence, a milky lotion, and a cream are applied in this order. In recent years, all-in-one cosmetics, which have the functions of multiple cosmetics applied after the lotion, have been put on the market, which has helped to shorten the time required for skin care.

There are also high-performance cosmetics in which whitening ingredients are blended with all-in-one cosmetics, and in these cosmetics, the active ingredients such as whitening ingredients are stably blended. On the other hand, in skin care cosmetics, the feel of the skin and the feel of use when applied to the skin are also important. For example, good familiarity with the skin and excellent permeation of the active ingredient into the skin are attractive to the cosmetic.

Patent Document 1 describes an external preparation for skin containing a thickener composed of a microgel containing a hydrophilic compound having a gelling ability and a whitening agent component. It is stated that the external preparation for skin does not have a sticky feeling or a squeaky feeling, has excellent usability, and is stable without causing water separation even when a high amount of whitening ingredient is added.

Patent Document 2 discloses a skin external preparation containing ascorbic acid-based / alkoxysalicylic acid-based salt-type whitening agent and carrageenan as a thickener, and states that it is excellent in stability over time and usability. Has been done. The gel composed of carrageenan in Patent Document 2 is a plump and relatively elastic gel, and has a high yield value and is difficult to flow. However, it is taught that when the share becomes larger than the yield value, the gel deforms remarkably, so that the gel is crushed freshly when spread on the skin, spreads well, and does not cause sliminess or stickiness.

Patent Document 3 discloses a skin external preparation containing a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane and a microgel mainly composed of gellan gum, and states that the skin external preparation has good spreadability to the skin and is not sticky. Has been done. Then, an example of an all-in-one gel having the above-mentioned characteristics is described (Example 2).
However, there is no known skin cosmetic that has both moderate hardness and excellent usability.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2001-342125 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2005-120051 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2013-193963

An object of the present invention is that a skin cosmetic containing a whitening agent has an appropriate hardness to stand on the skin and a jelly-like tactile sensation, and is excellent in penetrating feeling when applied to the skin. The purpose is to provide skin whitening products.

As a result of diligent studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have determined that the water-soluble polymer is polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether and / or polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil. The present invention has been completed based on the finding that when compounded in combination with polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide, an unprecedented base having an appropriate hardness and an excellent feeling of use can be obtained. I came to do it.

That is, the present invention
(A) Whitening agent selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbic acid glucoside;
(B) Polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20;
(C) 0.15% by mass or more of water-soluble polymer;
(D) One or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18-C28) ether and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil; and
(E) Contains water and
Provided is a skin cosmetic having a viscosity at 30 ° C. in the range of 3,000 to 10,000 mPa · s.

Although the skin cosmetic of the present invention is water-based, it has an appropriate hardness enough to stand on the skin, and has a jelly-like appearance and feel. Further, it has a good affinity with the skin, can give a cool feeling of coldness, and has an excellent feeling that an active ingredient such as a whitening agent penetrates into the skin.

(A) Whitening agent selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbic acid glucoside The whitening agent blended in the skin cosmetics of the present invention is tranexamic acid and / or ascorbic acid glucoside.
Tranexamic acid has been conventionally used as a whitening agent in cosmetics and the like. The tranexamic acid in the present invention can be selected from tranexamic acid and salts thereof and derivatives thereof. Examples of tranexamates include metal salts such as magnesium salts, calcium salts, sodium salts and potassium salts, and inorganic salts such as phosphates, hydrochlorides, hydrogen bromides and sulfates. Examples of the tranexamic acid derivative include tranexamic acid esters (for example, vitamin esters such as vitamin A ester, vitamin E ester, vitamin C ester, and vitamin D ester, phenyl esters, hydroquinone esters, gentisic acid esters, etc.). Examples thereof include tranexamic acid amide (methylamide or a salt thereof, etc.), tranexamic acid dimer, and the like.

The ascorbic acid glucoside is not particularly limited as long as it is a glycoside of ascorbic acid used as a whitening agent in cosmetics and the like. For example, L-ascorbic acid glucoside such as L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and L-ascorbic acid diglucoside can be mentioned.

The blending amount of the whitening agent (component (a)) in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is usually 0.5 to 5.0% by mass, preferably 0.55 to 4.0% by mass. More preferably, it is 0.6 to 3.0% by mass.

(B) Polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20 The polyethylene glycol blended in the skin cosmetics of the present invention contains ethylene oxide having an average degree of polymerization of 4 to 20, preferably 4 to 12. That is, the following formula (A):
H (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH (A)
It is a polymer of ethylene oxide represented by, and has an average value of n of 4 to 20, preferably 4 to 12.
Specific examples include polyethylene glycol 200 (INCI name: PEG-4), polyethylene glycol 300 (INCI name: PEG-6), polyethylene glycol 400 (INCI name: PEG-8), and polyethylene glycol 600 (INCI name: PEG-). 12), polyethylene glycol 1000 (INCI name: PEG-20) and the like can be mentioned. In the system of the present invention, when polyethylene glycol containing ethylene oxide having an average degree of polymerization of more than 20 is used, the desired hardness can be obtained, but the skin becomes less familiar and sticky.

The blending amount of polyethylene glycol (component (b)) having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20 in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is usually 0.1 to 3% by mass, preferably 0.2 to 2.5. It is by mass, more preferably 0.3 to 2% by mass.

(C) Water-soluble polymer The water-soluble polymer blended in the skin cosmetics of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is used as an aqueous thickener in cosmetics and the like. Among them, from the viewpoint of obtaining an appropriate hardness in the present invention, it is preferable to use one or more selected from the carboxyvinyl polymer and the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane.

The carboxyvinyl polymer (INCI name: carbomer) is an acidic polymer (crosslinked polyacrylic acid) mainly composed of an acrylic acid polymer. As commercially available products, for example, carbomer 940, 941, 980, 981, 934, 2984, 5984 (manufactured by BFGoodrich), Hibiswaco 104, 105 (manufactured by Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.) and the like are available. The carboxyvinyl polymer in the present invention may be an alkyl-modified one (for example, an acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate (C10-30) copolymer or the like).

Hydrophobic-modified polyether urethane is a kind of associative thickener, and is considered to exhibit a thickening effect by associating hydrophobic portions with each other in an aqueous medium (see Patent Document 3). Specifically, a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane having a structure represented by the following formula (I) is preferably used.

In the above formula (I), R ₁ represents an alkyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and R ₂ and R ₄ independently represent an alkylene group or a phenylethylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms. It is preferably an alkylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
R ₃ represents an alkylene group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms which may have a urethane bond.
R ₅ represents a linear, branched or secondary alkyl group having 8 to 36 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
m is a number of 2 or more. It is preferably 2.
h is a number of 1 or more. It is preferably 1.
k is a number from 1 to 500. The number is preferably 100 to 300.
n is a number from 1 to 200. The number is preferably 10 to 100.

Among the hydrophobically modified polyether urethanes represented by the above general formulas, the (PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI) copolymer (INCI name: PEG-240 / HDI COPOLYMER BIS-DECYLTETRADECHETH-20 ETHER) is preferable. Used. Examples of commercially available products of the (PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI) copolymer include "ADEKA NOL GT-700" (manufactured by ADEKA Corporation).

The "appropriate hardness" in the present invention is such that when the cosmetic is taken out of the container, an appropriate amount can be taken with a finger and the cosmetic stands on the skin. Standing up means that the cosmetic is placed on the skin in a rounded, swollen state, like water droplets on a water-repellent substrate. When this appropriate hardness is defined by the viscosity of the cosmetic, the viscosity measured with a B-type viscometer at 30 ° C. is in the range of about 3,000 to about 10,000 mPa · s.

The amount of the water-soluble polymer (component (c)) to be blended in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is such that the cosmetic has an appropriate hardness. That is, an amount of the water-soluble polymer (component (c)) having a viscosity of the cosmetic at 30 ° C. in the range of about 3,000 to about 10,000 mPa · s is blended. Therefore, the blending amount of the water-soluble polymer can change depending on the properties (molecular weight, etc.) of the water-soluble polymer. In water-soluble polymers widely used in cosmetics, if the blending amount is less than 0.15% by mass, the hardness is often not appropriate. Therefore, usually, the blending amount of the water-soluble polymer is 0.15% by mass or more. The upper limit of the blending amount of the water-soluble polymer may be an amount that satisfies the above-mentioned viscosity condition. For example, when only the carboxyvinyl polymer is blended as the water-soluble polymer, it is preferably 0.4% by mass or less, and more preferably 0.35% by mass. When only the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane is blended as the water-soluble polymer, the upper limit is about 5% by mass, preferably about 3% by mass, and more preferably about 2.5% by mass.

(D) One or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (d) The component (d) is a component that acts as an emulsifier in the system of the present invention. is there.
As the polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether, those having a structure represented by the following formula (II) are preferably used.

In the above formula, R represents a linear or branched alkyl group having 18 to 28 carbon atoms, m represents a number of 2 to 24, and n represents a number of 10 to 38.

Among the polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ethers, POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether is particularly preferable, and its commercially available product "Ssafe 1324 (D)" (NOF CORPORATION) (Made by company) can be used.

The polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil used in the present invention has an HLB of 10 or more, for example, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-. 60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and the like are preferably used.

The blending amount of the component (d) in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is usually 0.05 to 0.5% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 0.4% by mass, and more preferably 0.1 to 0.3. It is mass%.

In the present invention, one or more selected from the above (c) water-soluble polymer, (d) polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether, and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil. The blending amount ratio of the above is preferably in the range of 20: 1 to 1: 1, and more preferably in the range of 15: 1 to 2: 1.

(E) Water The amount of water blended in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is usually 60 to 95% by mass, preferably 70 to 90% by mass.

In addition to the above-mentioned essential ingredients (a) to (e), the skin cosmetics of the present invention may further contain other optional ingredients to be blended in the skin care cosmetics.

For example, by blending (f) a moisturizer, the moisturizing and moisturizing effects of the skin can be enhanced. Moisturizers include glycerin (dynamite glycerin), 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ether (excluding those corresponding to component (d)), hyaluronic acid or acetylated hyaluronic acid. Examples of acids and salts thereof can be used.

Among these moisturizers, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C1 to C3) ether (for example, polyoxyethylene (14) polyoxypropylene (7) dimethyl ether, etc.), hyaluronic acid and acetylation. It is preferable to combine two or more kinds selected from hyaluronic acid. On the other hand, when diglycerin is added, stickiness may occur when the cosmetic is applied and then dried.

By further adding (g) a cooling sensation agent to the skin cosmetic of the present invention, it is possible to improve the cool feeling when applied to the skin and give the skin a refreshing and firm feeling.
The cooling sensation agent to be blended is not particularly limited as long as it can be used in cosmetics and external preparations for skin, and examples thereof include menthols such as l-menthol, camphors, and borneols.

Examples of other optional components include, but are not limited to, emollients, ultraviolet absorbers, various chemicals, lower alcohols (alcohols having 6 or less carbon atoms), oils, inorganic and organic powders, and the like. However, from the viewpoint of a refreshing feel, the amount of oil to be blended may be preferably 20% by mass or less, for example, 10% by mass or less or 5% by mass or less.

The skin cosmetic of the present invention is prepared by mixing each compounding component and appropriately stirring and mixing while heating as necessary.

The skin cosmetic of the present invention contains a novel base that is water-based but has an appropriate hardness to the extent that it stands on the skin, and when applied to the skin, it fits well and does not feel sticky, and is used as a whitening agent. It can give the feeling that active ingredients such as moisturizers quickly penetrate into the keratin. Therefore, for example, it is preferable to provide it as an all-in-one skin care cosmetic having all the functions of a conventional lotion, milky lotion, mask, astringent, and beauty essence.

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples below, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples. Unless otherwise specified, the blending amount is shown in mass% with respect to the total amount of the composition in which the component is blended.

Skin cosmetics were prepared according to the formulations listed in Tables 1 and 2 below. The pH value and viscosity of the cosmetics (samples) of each example were measured (B-type viscometer, No3, 12 rpm, 30 ° C.).
In addition, we asked a specialized panel to evaluate "hardness of cosmetics (sample)", "non-stickiness", and "quickness of familiarity". The evaluation criteria are as follows.

<Evaluation criteria>
"Hardness (jelly feeling)"
A: It has moderate hardness and a jelly-like feel that makes it stand on the skin.
B: It is too hard to get out of the container.
C: It is too soft to come off the container and does not stand on the skin.

"Non-stickiness" and "Familiarity"
A +: Extremely excellent A: Excellent B: Normal C: Inferior

As is clear from the results shown in Table 1, the skin cosmetics of the present invention (Examples 1 to 3) containing polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20 as the component (b) are on the skin. It had an appropriate hardness to stand up and a jelly-like feel, and it was not sticky and fits well on the skin quickly. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1 in which diglycerin was added instead of the component (b) of the present invention, stickiness occurred when the cosmetic was dried. In addition, Comparative Examples 2 and 3 containing polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of more than 20 were sticky and had a slow fit to the skin.

According to the results shown in Table 2, good results were obtained even when (c) the water-soluble polymer was changed from the carboxyvinyl polymer to the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane (Examples 4 to 6). On the other hand, (c) Comparative Example 4 in which the blending amount of the water-soluble polymer was less than 0.15% by mass was a soft cosmetic in which the viscosity of the cosmetic did not reach 3,000 mPa · s. As a result, it was difficult to take an appropriate amount from the container, and the base was not hard enough to stand on the skin. On the contrary, in Comparative Example 5 in which the blending amount of the carboxyvinyl polymer was large and the viscosity exceeded 10,000 mPa · s, the cosmetic was too hard and it was difficult to take out an appropriate amount from the container.

The following is another example of prescribing the skin cosmetic of the present invention.
Prescription example 1
Display name Blending amount (mass%)
Ion-exchanged water Remaining amount Ethyl alcohol 10
Dynamite glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetylated sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate 0.0009
Polyethylene glycol 400 0.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl ether
1.5
(Dimethylacrylamide / Acryloyldimethyltaurine Na) Crosspolymer
0.2
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether
0.1
Potassium hydroxide 0.04
Tranexamic acid 2
Glycylglycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
EDTA-2Na ・ 2H ₂ O Appropriate amount Sodium pyrosulfite Appropriate amount Phenoxyethanol Appropriate amount Fragrance Appropriate amount Total 100

Prescription example 2
Display name Blending amount (mass%)
Ion-exchanged water Remaining amount Ethyl alcohol 10
Dynamite glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetylated sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate 0.0009
Polyethylene glycol 400 0.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl ether
1.5
Acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymer 0.3
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether
0.1
Potassium hydroxide 0.04
Tranexamic acid 2
Glycylglycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
EDTA-2Na ・ 2H ₂ O Appropriate amount Sodium pyrosulfite Appropriate amount Phenoxyethanol Appropriate amount Fragrance Appropriate amount Total 100

Prescription example 3
Display name Blending amount (mass%)
Ion-exchanged water Remaining amount Ethyl alcohol 10
Dynamite glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetylated sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate 0.0009
Polyethylene glycol 400 0.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl ether
1.5
(Alkylate Acrylate / Steares Methacrylate-20) Copolymer
0.9
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether
0.1
Potassium hydroxide 0.04
Tranexamic acid 2
Glycylglycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Appropriate amount EDTA-2Na ・ 2H ₂ O Appropriate amount Sodium pyrosulfite Appropriate amount Phenoxyethanol Appropriate amount Fragrance Appropriate amount Total 100

Prescription example 4
Display name Blending amount (mass%)
Ion-exchanged water Remaining amount Ethyl alcohol 10
Dynamite glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetylated sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate 0.0009
Polyethylene glycol 400 1.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl ether
1.5
(PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI) copolymer
1.5
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether
0.1
4-Methoxysalicylic acid potassium salt 1
Glycylglycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
EDTA-2Na ・ 2H ₂ O Appropriate amount Sodium pyrosulfite Appropriate amount Phenoxyethanol Appropriate amount Fragrance Appropriate amount Total 100

Claims (5)

(A) Whitening agent selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbic acid glucoside;
(B) Polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20;
(C) 0.15% by mass or more of water-soluble polymer;
(D) One or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18-C28) ether and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil; and
(E) Contains water and
A skin cosmetic having a viscosity at 30 ° C. in the range of 3,000 to 10,000 mPa · s. The skin cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the (c) water-soluble polymer is one or more selected from a carboxyvinyl polymer and a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane. The polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether of (d) is POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether, and the polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil is PEG60-hydrogenated castor oil. The skin cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2. (F) The skin cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further containing a moisturizer. (G) The skin cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further containing a cooling sensation agent.