KR102002099B1 - Cosmetic compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions including a jasmonic acid derivative - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a colorant composition comprising: at least one colorant; And a physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least one jasmonic acid derivative compound, wherein the composition is in the oil-in-water-emulsion form and the aqueous phase is present in an amount of from about 40 weight percent To 55% by weight.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion comprising a jasmonic acid derivative,

The present invention relates to skin care and / or makeup compositions. More particularly, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the oil-in-water-emulsion form, comprising a jasmonic acid derivative.

Consumers want skin care or make-up cosmetics that can be applied quickly and easily to the skin in a form that is not thick but builds up in tandem with possible support, but also wants anti-aging products.

Accordingly, there is a growing demand for cosmetics that combine foundation makeup properties and skin care properties, particularly, to overcome the aging action.

These products typically contain active ingredients that have been found to have anti-aging activity and colored particles such as pigments or nacre that can mask the sign of aging.

As anti-aging active ingredients mention may be made in particular of alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and citric acid, beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, and in particular the jasmonic acid derivatives described in application EP 1 333 021.

These jasmonic acid derivatives are excellent in tolerance and have the advantage of not causing skin discomfort such as tingling, tightness or redness.

However, when these compounds are added to cosmetic formulations, particularly emulsion-formulated formulations, the stability may be greatly modified, resulting in phase separation.

To overcome this disadvantage, in the case of oil-in-water-in-water emulsions (W / O) it is possible to increase the content of dispersed water phase which can improve stability through viscosity increase. However, when the water content is too large, the cosmetic application characteristics of the composition are changed.

Accordingly, a composition in the form of a W / O emulsion which is stable and has good cosmetic application characteristics is desired.

The present invention is directed to providing oil-in-water emulsions for use in skin care and / or makeup compositions.

The present invention seeks to provide a skin care and / or makeup composition in the form of a stable oil-in-water emulsion over time.

The present invention seeks to provide skin care and / or makeup compositions with good compromise between stability and cosmetic properties.

The present invention relates to a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, comprising:

At least one colorant; And

At least one jasmonic acid derivative compound of the formula (I), and optical isomers and corresponding salts thereof:

Wherein:

R ₁ is a radical COOR ₃ and R ₃ is a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;

R ₂ is a linear or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical of from 1 to 18 carbon atoms,

The composition is in the form of a oil-in-water emulsion comprising a water phase dispersed in a fat phase,

The water phase is 40 wt% to 55 wt%, particularly 42 wt% to 52 wt%, preferably 44 wt% to 50 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions intended for skin care and / or makeup.

The resulting emulsion has good stability over time, a good appearance, and a pleasant feel during application.

The term "stable emulsion " refers to an emulsion that does not exhibit any macroscopic change in color, odor or viscosity after storage at room temperature (20 캜 to 22 캜) for 7 days.

Jasmon Mountain  derivative

The composition of the present invention comprises at least one jasmonic acid derivative of the above-mentioned formula (I).

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a mixture of compounds of formula (I).

According to the invention, the "alkyl" radical Cx-Cy is a straight or branched chain saturated hydrocarbon radical comprising from x to y carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 12, or from 1 to 4 carbon atoms (These are typically represented by the formula C _n H _{2n +1} , where n represents the number of carbon atoms). In particular, mention may be made of linear, methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, nonyl and decyl radicals. In particular, when they are branched or substituted by one or more alkyl radicals, isopropyl, tert-butyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-methylbutyl, 2-methylpentyl, 1-methylpentyl and 3-methylheptyl radicals .

According to one embodiment, in formula (I), R ₃ is H, optionally substituted by methyl, ethyl, or propyl, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group and a propyl group, optionally with one or two hydroxyl group ≪ / RTI >

R ₃ is When it is an alkyl group, it may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl group (s), and such or the hydroxyl group (s) may be bonded at the terminal position and / or the lateral position of the alkyl radical. For example, R ₃ can be a -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₃ group or a -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ OH group or a -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ OH group.

According to one embodiment, the compositions of the present invention, R ₁ is _{-COOH, -COOCH 3, -COO-CH} 2 -CH 3, -COO-CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 OH, -COOCH 2 - CH ₂ -CH ₂ OH, and -COOCH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₃ .

According to one embodiment, the compositions of the present invention, R is ₂ may include a compound of a carbon number of 2 to 7, the linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical of the formula (I).

In formula (I), R ₂ may be a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 18, preferably from 2 to 7, carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, in formula (I), R ₂ is selected from the group consisting of pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl radicals.

According to one embodiment, the compositions of the present invention comprise a compound of formula (I) wherein R < ₁ > is -COOH.

Certain of the jasmonic acid derivative compounds used in the compositions of the present invention correspond to the following formula (II): < RTI ID = 0.0 >

In the above formula, R ₂ is a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 7 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, in formula (II), R < ₂ > is selected from the group consisting of pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl radicals.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a compound of formula (I) selected from 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentanethylacetic acid or 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentanacetic acid sodium salt .

The compounds of formula (I) may contain one or more asymmetric carbon atoms. Thus, they may be enantiomeric or diastereoisomeric forms. These enantiomers or diastereomers as well as mixtures thereof including racemic mixtures are part of the present invention.

The compound of formula (I) may be in a basic state or in the form of an acid addition salt. Such addition salts are part of the present invention.

Salts of compounds which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium; Alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium, magnesium or strontium; Metal salts such as zinc, aluminum, manganese and copper; Ammonium salts of the formula NH ₄ ⁺ ; Quaternary ammonium salts; (2-hydroxyethyl) amine and tri- (2-hydroxyethyl) amine salts such as methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, An organic amine salt such as < RTI ID = 0.0 & Or lysine salts and arginine salts. Preferably, salts selected from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese and zinc are used. More preferably, a sodium salt is used.

According to a particular embodiment, in the composition of the present invention, the compound of formula (I) is introduced as an aqueous phase and its content is from 0.001% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 8% By weight, preferably 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight.

coloring agent

The colorant present in the composition of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of, for example, pigments, dyes and interference particles.

According to one embodiment, the colorant is selected from pigments.

Such a cosmetic composition according to the invention is advantageously selected from a pigment or a knicker type of organic or inorganic coloring agents, oil-soluble or water-soluble dyes, materials having particular optical effects, and mixtures thereof, which are commonly used in cosmetic compositions in particular One or more dyes may be included.

The term pigment refers to inorganic or organic, white or colored particles which are intended to color and / or opaque the resulting film and which are insoluble in aqueous solution.

The pigment may be present in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 40% by weight, in particular from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, in particular from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As inorganic pigments that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, prussian blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate. Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least titanium oxide and iron oxide.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, cericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such pigments are sold under the trade name COVERLEAF NS or JS by, for example, CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS, with a contrast ratio of about 30.

The colorant may also include pigments having a structure that may be, for example, silica microsphere-type comprising iron oxide. An example of a pigment with such a structure is sold by MIYOSHI under the trade name PC BALL PC-LL-100 P, which consists of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

The term "neighbors" refers to colored particles that are iridescent or unchanged in color, random in shape, in particular, produced in the shell of a given mollusc or produced synthetically, And has an optical interference color effect.

The kneader may be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Neckers include, but are not limited to, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, iron oxide, titanium mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with organic dyes as well as pearl light such as bismuth oxychloride- Pigments. They may also be mica particles having a superimposed surface of two or more successive layers of metal oxide and / or organic coloring material.

In addition, examples of neckers can include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

Among the available semiconductors are the TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME neckers (mica systems) sold by ENGALHARD, the TIMIRON neckers sold by MERCK, the PRESTIGE mica neckers sold by ECKART, and SUN CHEMICAL Mention may be made of the synthetic SUNCHINE mica-based markers sold.

The necker may be more specifically yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown and / or copper reflective or copper.

Examples of neighbors that can be used in the context of the present invention include ENGELHARD® under the trade names Brilliant Gold 212G (TIMICA), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (TIMICA), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X Colored knickers sold in the company; Bronze color inks sold under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) by Merck and under the product name Super Bronze (Cloisonne) by Engelhard; Especially those sold under the product names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) by Engelhard and under the product names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (Microna) by Merck; Especially brown nails sold under the trade names Nu-Antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite) by Engelhard; Copper light neeer sold by Engelhard under the product name Copper 340A (TIMICA); Especially the red light neeer sold by Merck under the product name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); Yellow light markers marketed by Engelhard under the product name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); Especially the gold red necker sold under the product name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone) by Engelhard; Pink neer sold under the name Tan Opale G005 (Gemtone) by Engelhard; A black black knicker sold under the name Nu-Antique Bronze 240 AB (TIMICA) by Engelhard; Especially blue niches sold by Merck under the product name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna); A silvery white necker sold under the name XIRONA Silver by Merck; And in particular the gold-green-pink-orange neer under the product name Indian Summer (XIRONA) sold by Merck, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise a water-soluble or oil-soluble dye. Oil-soluble dyes include, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6,? -Carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and Quinoline Yellow . Water soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and caramel.

The dye may be present in an amount of from 0.001% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 3% by weight, in particular from 0.025% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one substance having a specific optical effect.

This effect is different from the uniform and stabilized effect produced by a simple conventional tinting effect, i.e., conventional coloring materials such as monochromatic pigments. In the context of the present invention, "stabilized" means that there is a lack of color changing effect in response to temperature change or angle.

For example, such materials may be selected from metal lustrous particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers , In particular, interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to simultaneously represent two appearances or even exhibit new effects according to the present invention.

The metallic lustrous particles that can be used in the present invention are especially chosen from the following:

Particles of one or more metals and / or one or more metal derivatives,

Particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, at least partially covered by one or more layers of metallic luster, made of a single material or multiple materials, comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative , And

- a mixture of said particles.

In the metal that may be present in the particles, for example, Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, And mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronze colors and brasses) are preferred metals.

The term "metal derivatives" refers to compounds derived from metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

Examples of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the name ^® METALURE by STARBRITE 1200 EAC ^®, and ECKART four by four SIBERLINE.

Copper metal powder or alloy mixtures such as those sold under the name 2844 by RADIUM BRONZE, metal pigments such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the name ROTOSAFE 700 by the company ECKART, under the product name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER by ECKART Silica-coated aluminum particles sold, and silica-coated bronze powders (copper and zinc alloys) sold under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT NATURAL GOLD by ECKART.

They may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, such as those marketed by NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the product name MICROGLASS METASHINE.

The goniochromatic colorant can be selected, for example, from interference multilayer structures and liquid crystal colorants.

Examples of symmetrical interference multilayer structure which can be used in the composition that is produced in accordance with the present invention include, for example, the following _{structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al /} SiO 2 / Al, has such a structure sold by DUPONT DE NEMOURS company A pigment; Cr / MgF ₂ / Al / MgF ₂ / Cr, pigments having this structure and sold under the name CHROMAFLAIR by FLEX Corporation; MoS ₂ / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / MoS ₂ ; Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ and Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ , ≪ / RTI > MoS ₂ / SiO ₂ / mica-oxide / SiO ₂ / MoS ₂ ; Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / mica-oxide / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ ; TiO ₂ / SiO ₂ / TiO ₂ and TiO ₂ / Al ₂ O ₃ / TiO ₂ ; _{SnO / TiO 2 / SiO 2 /} TiO 2 / SnO; Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ ; SnO / Mica _{/ TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO} 2 / mica / SnO, have the structure thereof is a pigment, sold under the product name XIRONA by MERCK Corporation (Darmstadt). These pigments include, for example, pigments having a silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure sold under the name XIRONA MAGIC by MERCK, pigments with a silica / brown iron oxide structure sold under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER by the company MERCK , And a silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure sold under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. It may also refer to INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and properties of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, when using the Fe ₂ O ₃ / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ structure, the hue is from gold green to red in the case of a SiO ₂ layer of 320 nm to 350 nm; From red to gold in the case of a SiO ₂ layer from 380 nm to 400 nm; From violet to green in the case of a SiO ₂ layer of 410 nm to 420 nm; In the case of the SiO ₂ layer of 430 nm to 440 nm, it changes from a copper color to a red color.

As examples of pigments having a multi-layer polymeric structure, mention may be made of those sold under the name COLOR GLITTER by 3M.

As liquid crystal goniophobic particles there may be used, for example, those sold under the name HELICONE ^® HC by WACKER, as well as those sold by CHENIX.

These goniochromatic coloring agents may be present in the composition in an amount of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Physiologically acceptable medium

In addition to the compounds described above, the compositions according to the present invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.

The term "physiologically acceptable medium" refers to media that are particularly suitable for applying the compositions of the present invention to the skin or lips.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adjusted to the type of support to which the composition is to be applied as well as to the form in which the composition is to be packaged.

The compositions of the present invention are in the form of a W / O emulsion comprising a dispersed aqueous phase and a continuous oil phase.

Awards

The compositions according to the present invention comprise water contents varying from 40% to 55% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

When the content of the water phase is less than 40%, the emulsion is no longer stable, and when the content of the water phase exceeds 55%, the application characteristics are deteriorated.

The water phase comprises water, and in particular other water soluble compounds present, such as water soluble additives and solvents.

As a water-soluble solvent, mention may in particular be made of alcohols containing from 2 to 8, in particular from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol.

As polyols, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycol.

The aqueous phase may also contain other additives such as water-soluble active ingredients, preservatives, salts, gelling agents, fillers, water-soluble polymers or water-dispersible polymers, water-soluble dyes and the like.

Local phase

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one liquid and / or solid fat phase.

In particular, the compositions of the present invention may comprise one or more liquid fatty phases as described above, especially one or more oils.

The term oil refers to a fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20 ° C to 25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

According to one embodiment, the fat phase of the composition of the present invention comprises one or more volatile oils and / or one or more non-volatile oils.

Volatile oil

According to one embodiment, the fat phase of the composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile oil. The lipid phase of the composition of the present invention may comprise a mixture of multiple volatile oils.

The term "volatile oil" refers to a non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips within one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature. More specifically, the evaporation rate of the volatile oil is 0.01 mg / cm ² / min to 200 mg / cm ² / min and includes the end point.

To measure this rate of evaporation, 15 g of the oil or oil mixture to be tested was placed on a balance placed in a 0.3 m ³ chamber which was temperature-regulated at 25 ° C and humidity-adjusted to 50% Lt; RTI ID = 0.0 > crystallizer. ≪ / RTI > The liquid is ventilated using a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed vertically above the crystallization apparatus containing the solvent, allowing it to freely evaporate without stirring, Towards the device and 20 cm away from the base of the crystal device. The mass of the oil remaining in the crystal device is measured regularly. The rate of evaporation is expressed in terms of the amount of oil evaporated per surface area (cm ² ) and per unit time (minute).

The volatile oil may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.

According to the present invention, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, especially at least one Si-O group.

The term "fluorine oil" refers to an oil comprising one or more fluorine atoms.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil comprising essentially hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oil optionally contains oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms in the form of, for example, hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Volatile oils include hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially branched isomers such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, branched C ₈ C ₁₆ alkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins or isoalkanes), and oils sold under the name ISOPARS ^® or PERMETHYLS ^® , for example.

Hydrocarbon volatile oils include linear C ₉ -C ₁₇ alkanes such as dodecane (C ₁₂ ) and tetradecane (C ₁₄ ) sold under the trade names PARAFOL ^® 12-97 and PARAFOL ^® 14-97 (Sasol) May refer to alkanes obtained according to the process described in international application WO 2007/068371 Al, such as undecane (C ₁₁ ) and tridecane (C ₁₃ ) mixtures under CETIOL ^® UT (Cognis).

Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, a mixture of isododecane and undecane (C ₁₁ ) and tridecane (C ₁₃ ) is preferred.

As a volatile oil, e.g., volatile linear or cyclic silicones, in particular the viscosity is less than 8 centistokes ^{(cSt) (8 x 10 -6} m 2 / s), in particular, 2 to 10 silicon atoms, especially 2 To 7 silicon atoms, wherein the silicones optionally comprise an alkyl or alkoxyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of dimethicone having a viscosity of 5 cSt to 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, Heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

More specifically, as a volatile silicone oil, mention may be made of a linear or cyclic silicone oil having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, wherein these silicones are optionally substituted with an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, Includes practical skills.

As preferred examples, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane can be mentioned.

Of the volatile silicone oils, dodecamethylpentasiloxane is preferred.

As volatile fluorine oils there may be mentioned, for example, nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

Non-volatile oil

According to one embodiment, the fat phase of the composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil. The fatty phase of the composition of the present invention may comprise a mixture of a plurality of non-volatile oils.

The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean oil remaining in the skin or keratinous fibers at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, the evaporation rate of the non-volatile oil is strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm ² / min.

Non-volatile oils may in particular be selected from non-volatile hydrocarbons, fluorine and / or silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of:

- Hydrocarbons of animal origin, such as perhydro-squalene,

(AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), a triglyceride consisting of a fatty acid ester of glycerol, and a phospholipid, such as, for example, phytosteryl esters such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate Hydrocarbon oils of the same plant origin, especially those with fatty acid chain lengths of C ₄ To C ₃₆ , in particular C ₁₈ to C ₃₆ , and these oils may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; These oils are in particular heptane-free triglycerides or octanoic triglycerides, shea oils, alfalfa oils, poppy seed oils, pumpkin oils, millet oils, barley oils, Such as quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel, Oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, barrage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, such as hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cotton seed oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn Oil, meadowfoam oil, Apricot kernel oil, nut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, corn oil, corn oil, (s) selected from the group consisting of kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, winter squash oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, Watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or as another example, caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810 ^® , 812 ^® and 818 ^® by STERINERIES DUBOIS or DYNAMIT NOBEL May be,

Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, Parleam, squalane;

Synthetic ethers of 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

Synthetic esters such as oils of formula R ₁ COOR _2, where, R ₁ is a linear or branched fatty acid moiety having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, R ₂ is a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a branched chain having 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that, R ₁ Or R < ₂ > The esters are, in particular, fatty acids and alcohol esters such as: cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, Or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoate, especially iso Stearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoate, decanoate or lysine oleate such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-di Heptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoate , Polyethylene glycol di heptanoate, propylene glycol 2-ethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ Alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurates, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, or octyldodecyl neopentanoate, Acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate. has exist;

- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as, for example, dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,

- diol dimers and diacid ester of the dimer, such as NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL Inc., and sold by the ^® Lusplan DD-DA5 ^® and Lusplan DD-DA7 described in application US 2004-175338,

Copolymers of diol dimers and dicarboxylic acid dimers and esters thereof, such as copolymers of dirinoleic diol dimer / dicarboxylic acid dimer and esters thereof, such as Plandool-G,

Copolymers of polyols with dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA or copolymers of dyninoleic acid / butanediol,

Fatty acid alcohols having a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain of 12 to 26 carbon atoms and being liquid at ambient temperature, for example 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyl octanol and 2-undecyl pentadecanol,

- C ₁₂ -C _22, fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and,

- dialkyl carbonate as the carbonate, two alkyl chains may be the same or different, for example, die caprylyl carbonate, sold under the product name CETIOL CC ^® by COGNIS Co.,

In particular from about 400 g / mol to about 10,000 g / mol, especially from about 650 g / mol to about 10,000 g / mol, especially from about 750 g / mol to about 7500 g / mol, A high molar mass oil with a molar mass of 5000 g / mol. The high molar mass oils that can be used in the present invention can be made especially with oils selected from the following:

       • lipophilic polymers,

       Linear fatty acid esters having a total of 35 to 70 carbon atoms,

       Hydroxylated esters,

       ● aromatic esters,

• esters of C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols,

       ● silicone oil,

       ● Plant origin oil,

       And mixtures thereof;

Fluorine oils, optionally partially hydrogenated and / or silicon based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicon as described in EP-A-847 752;

- silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), such as non-volatile and linear or cyclic; A polydimethylsiloxane at the end or pendant of the silicon chain and comprising an alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl group having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; Phenyldimethicone, phenyl-trimethylsiloxy-diphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyl-trisiloxane or (2-phenylethyl) trimethylsiloxy Silicates, and

- mixtures thereof.

Among linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, paraffin oil or petrolatum is preferably used.

Among the hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, mention may preferably be made of vegetable oils such as rapeseed oil, jojoba oil or macadamia nut oil.

Of synthetic oils such as synthetic esters, isodecyl neopentanoate or isononyl isononanoate are particularly used, and among synthetic ethers, dicapryl ether is preferably used.

Among non-volatile silicone oils, polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethicone or alkyl dimethicone such as cetyl dimethicone is preferably used.

According to one embodiment, the fat phase of the composition of the present invention exhibits a percentage of 15% to 70%, preferably 20% to 50%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Thickener

Depending on the fluidity of the composition to be obtained, one or more of the thickening or gelling agents may be included in the composition of the present invention.

The thickeners or gelling agents suitable for the present invention may be hydrophilic, i. E. Water soluble or water-dispersible.

As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made in particular of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. Such polymers are, in particular, modified or un-modified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the name Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) by Goodrich; Polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as those sold under the product name Hispagel by the product name Lubrajel and Norgel or HISPANO CHIMICA by the company GUARDIAN; Polyacrylamides; Acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, which are optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized and which are commercially available under the trade designations "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryl dimethyltauramide) Poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company; Crosslinked anionic acrylamide / AMPS copolymers in the form of W / O emulsions such as SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA Acrylamide / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80); Polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, carob gum, gum acacia, scleroglucan, chitin derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenan, gellan, alginate or microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxy Celluloses such as methylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose; And mixtures thereof.

The thickeners or gelling agents suitable for the present invention may be affinity and may be inorganic or organic.

As lipophilic thickening agents there may be mentioned, for example, modified clays such as modified magnesium silicates (Bentone gel VS38 from RHEOX), modified hectorites such as C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid ammonium chlorides Hectorite, for example hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for example sold under the product name Bentone 38V ^® by ELEMENTIS, sold under the product name "Bentone 38 CE" by RHEOX , Or those sold under the product name Bentone Gel V5 5V by ELEMENTIS.

Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, having a three-dimensional structure in part or elastomeric organopolysiloxane crosslinked globally, for example, product name by SHIN-ETSU four KSG6 ^®, KSG16 ^® and KSG18 ^®, DOW-CORNING Inc. the Trefil E-505C ^® and ^{Trefil E-506C ®, Gransil SR} -CYC ® by GRANT INDUSTRIES ^{Co., SR DMF10 ®, SR-DC556} ®, SR 5CYC gel ®, SR DMF 10 gel ® and SR DC 556 gel ^® by Those marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC under SF 1204 ^® and JK 113 ^® ; Ethyl cellulose, e.g., products sold under the name Ethocel ^® by the DOW CHEMICAL Company; Wherein the polymer is a polyamide-type polycondensate produced by the condensation of a dicarboxylic acid having at least 32 carbon atoms with an alkylene diamine, in particular ethylenediamine, wherein the polymer comprises at least one linear and saturated mono Alcohol or one terminal monocarboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with one type of monoamine, in particular ethylenediamine / stearyl dirinoleate copolymer such as ARIZONA CHEMICAL under the trade name Uniclear 100 VG ^® Products being sold; A galactomannan substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain and containing 1 to 6, especially 2 to 4 hydroxyl groups per monosaccharide, such as a C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl chain, in particular a C ₁ to C ₃ Guar gums alkylated with alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof. "Second block", "third block" or "radial" type, the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / poly-butadiene type block copolymer, such as those sold under ^® Product Luvitol HSB by BASF Corporation, polystyrene / nose poly (ethylene-propylene), those sold under the name Kraton ^® by block copolymers such as SHELL CHEMICAL Co. of type, or the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type block copolymer and a third block of Figure decane isometric of and Blends of radial (star) copolymers such as those marketed by PENRECO under the product name Versagel ^® , for example, butene / ethylene / styrene 3 block copolymers and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymers in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

Examples of lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention include esters of fatty acids and dextrins such as dextrin palmitate, especially those sold under the name Rheopearl TL ^® or Rheopearl KL ^® by CHIBA FLOUR, hydrogenated vegetable oils For example, hydrogenated castor oil, fatty alcohols, especially C ₈ to C ₂₆ , more particularly C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , fatty alcohols such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol .

According to one embodiment, the composition comprises, by weight based on the total weight of the composition, from 0.01% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.3% to 15% .

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one lipophilic thickening agent, especially at least one modified hectorite, such as C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ Hectorite modified by fatty acid ammonium chloride is advantageously contained in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 2% by weight, of the active substance, based on the total weight of the composition _.

filling

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more fillers of organic or inorganic character and may in particular be used in combination with additives such as mattness, covering power and / or improved stability or staying power So that it can be given characteristics.

The content of the filler may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The term "filler" shall be understood to mean any colorless or white solid particles of any shape that are insoluble or dispersed in the medium of the composition. Natural inorganic or organic allows the composition to impart body or firmness, and / or make-up softness, and uniformity.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in the form of lamellar, globular or spherical, or fibrous, or other intermediate products between these defined forms.

The fillers can be surface-coated or can not be coated, especially they can be surface-treated with silicon, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or other ingredients promoting the compatibility and dispersibility of the fillers in the composition.

Examples of inorganic fillers include complexes of talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide, For example, the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.

Examples of the organic filler include polyamide powder (Nylon ^® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powder (Teflon), acrylic acid copolymer powder (POLYTRAP from Dow Corning) Such as, for example, those of Expancel (Nobel Industry), hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolhexyl lactone copolymer powder (Toshiki's Plastic Powder), silicones such as polyvinylidene fluoride, Synthetic or natural micronized waxes of resin microbeads (e.g. Tospearl from Toshiba), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, For example, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium Crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resins, in particular silsesquioxane resins, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793, polyurethane powders, in particular poly Mention may be made of crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a co-polymer, wherein the copolymer comprises hexyl lactone trimethylol. In particular, it may be a polymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolhexyl lactone. These particles are a mixture of those, and these are in particular, for example sold under the product names TOSHIKI PLASTIC POWDER D-400 ^® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800 ^®.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with a silicone resin. Due to the presence of such fillers, the compositions of the present invention can be thickened and / or gelled.

The crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder (s) coated with the silicone resin is present in an amount of from 0.5% to 12% by weight, advantageously from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 7% by weight, To 9% by weight of the composition.

In particular, mention can be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resins, in particular silsesquioxane resins, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793. The elastomer powder by SHIN ETSU Inc. Product name ^{KSP-100 ®, KSP-101} ®, KSP-102 ®, KSP-103 ®, KSP-104 ® , and KSP-105 and sold under ^®; Crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with a silicone resin, such as hybrid silicone powders functionalized by fluoroalkyl groups, especially those sold under the product designation "KSP-200 " by Shin Etsu; Or a hybrid silicone powder functionalized by a phenyl group sold under the product name "KSP-300" by Shin Etsu.

Emulsifier

The composition of the present invention may contain at least one emulsifier.

As emulsifiers, mention may be made in particular of polyhydroxylated and polyoxyalkylene glycol fatty acid emulsifiers.

Preferably, the polyhydroxylated and polyoxyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is a fatty acid and a polyethylene glycol ester.

The fatty acid and polyoxyalkylene glycol esters can be monoesters or polyesters, in particular diesters or triesters.

The fatty acid may comprise from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. This may in particular be selected from oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

The polyethylene glycol may comprise 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, more preferably 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide.

According to one embodiment, esters are preferably used which are polyesters of polyhydroxylated fatty acids and polyethylene glycols comprising from 20 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide, said polyhydroxylated fatty acids having from 14 to < RTI ID = 0.0 > 18 carbon atoms, in particular polyhydroxystearic acid.

In particular, fatty acids and polyoxyalkylene glycol esters are in the form of sequenced polymers, preferably comprising an ABA structure, comprising a poly (hydroxylated ester) and a polyethylene glycol sequence.

The fatty acid ester of the polymer has a chain comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 18 carbon atoms.

The polyethylene glycol sequence of the emulsion polymer as described above preferably comprises 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, more preferably 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide.

A particularly suitable compound for producing the compositions of the present invention is polyethylene glycol di-polyhydroxy stearate containing 30 moles of ethylene oxide sold by Croda under the trade designation "CITHROL DPHS-SO- (MV) ".

The polyoxyalkylene glycols are generally used in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Is present in the composition of the invention.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may comprise, in addition to polyoxyalkylene glycols and polyhydroxylated fatty acid ester emulsifiers, additional emulsifiers (or surfactants), also referred to as co-emulsifiers. Such co-emulsifiers can not alone stabilize the composition of the present invention in the absence of polyoxyalkylene glycols and polyhydroxylated fatty acid esters.

Additional emulsifiers may be selected, for example, from non-ionic emulsifiers derived from polyol-fatty acids, polyolefins with succinic acid ends, and mixtures thereof.

Polyolefins with succinic acid termini include, among others, polyisobutylenes and their salts with esterified succinic acid ends, especially those sold under the product names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by diethanolamine salts such as Lubrizol. can do.

Preferably, the additional emulsifier is selected from polyol-fatty acid esters.

According to the present invention, the term "polyol-fatty acid ester" refers to a polyol-fatty acid ester wherein the fatty acid is C ₆ -C ₂₂ , preferably C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ Alkyl chain, wherein the polyol is selected from glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. The fatty acid may also be in the form of a polymer and also in the case of polyhydroxystearic acid (12-hydroxystearic acid polymer).

According to a particular embodiment, the polyol-fatty acid esters are fatty acids and C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ linear or branched chain fatty acids may be mentioned, stearic acid, iso-stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid. An example of a C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty acid polymer is 12-polyhydroxystearic acid.

Preferably, stearic acid, isostearic acid or 12-polyhydroxystearic acid or mixtures thereof will be used.

The term polyglycerol refers to compounds of the formula:

In the above formula, the degree of condensation n is 1 to 11, preferably 2 to 6, more preferably 3 to 6.

According to a particular embodiment, the polyol-fatty acid ester is selected from the group consisting of 2 to 10 moles of polyol, preferably 2 to 4 moles of polyol, especially glycerol or polyglycerol (glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, , Oligo-glycerol).

More preferably, the polyol-fatty acid ester comprises 4 moles (unit) of polyol, in particular 4 moles (unit) glycerol.

According to a preferred embodiment, the polyol-fatty acid ester is also a dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, preferably sebacic acid ( C ₁₀ ) is a fatty acid ester of a fatty acid and a polyol.

Polyols which may be used in the compositions of the present invention Examples of fatty acid esters, isopropyl under stearic acid and polyol and esters of mixtures thereof, in particular iso-stearic acid and glycerol and / or by an ester, for example, Goldschmidt Company of sorbitan name ISOLAN GI34 ^® Polyglycerol isostearate sold (4 mol) (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 isostearate), polyglycerol diisostearate (3 mol) sold under the name Lameform TGI ^® by Cognis; Polyglycerol distearate (2 mol) sold under the name Emalex PGSA ^® by Nihon Emulsion; Polyglycerol monoisostearate (10 moles) (INCI name: polyglyceryl-10 isostearate) sold under the name Nikkol Decaglyn 1-IS by Nihon Surfactant; Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold by Goldschmidt under the product name ISOLAN GPS; A mixture of sorbitan isostearate and glycerol isostearate such as the product sold under the product name Arlacel 986 by ICI, sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by Uniquema, ) you can refer to the mixture, the mixture, and a mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate (3 mol) sold under the name Arlacel ^® 1690 by Uniquema of four.

Also included are silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as a mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyols sold under the name "DC 5225 C " by Dow Corning, Quot; Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid ", and cetyl dimethicone copolyols sold under the name Abil EM 90 ^® by Goldschmidt.

Preferably, the additional emulsifier is selected from fatty acid esters, preferably C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ , especially stearic acid or isostearic acid, and polyols selected from glycerol and / or sorbitan.

The additional emulsifying agent may be present in an amount of from 0.05% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 0.1% to 1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition (dry substance).

According to another embodiment, the compositions according to the present invention comprise less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.5% of additional emulsifiers, and may not particularly include additional emulsifiers.

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise at least one silicone emulsifier.

The compositions according to the present invention comprise oxypropylene polydimethylsiloxane and oxymethylene, also called dimethicone copolyols, oxyethylene and oxypropylene alkylpolydimethylsiloxanes in which the alkyl chain contains less than 12 carbon atoms (Also referred to as methicone copolyols), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone surfactant comprises polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene chains (polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene side chains or pendant chains) grafted onto the backbone.

The (alkyl) polydimethylsiloxanes used in the emulsions according to the invention advantageously have polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene side chains having the formula:

- (C _x H _2x ) - (OC ₂ H ₄ ) _a - (OC ₃ H ₆ ) _b -OR ₁₀

In this formula,

R ₁₀ is a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably a hydrogen atom,

- a is 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 50, more preferably 10 to 30,

- b is 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 50, more preferably 10 to 30,

- x is 1 to 5;

The number average molecular weight of the silicone emulsifier is generally at least 15,000, preferably at least 30,000, and may be from 40,000 to 100,000, especially from 50,000 to 100,000.

As an example of a silicone compound belonging to this family, mention may be made of oxyethylene and oxypropylene polydimethylsiloxane (OE / OP 18/18), the INCI name of which is PEG / PPG 18/18 dimethicone, Shin Etsu Which is sold under the name ES-5226 DM (INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone) by Dow Corning under the product name X-22-6711D .

The silicone emulsifier is generally present in an amount of from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, ≪ / RTI > in the composition of the present invention.

additive

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also contain other ingredients such as, for example, gums, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, gums, Which are commonly used in the art, selected from the group consisting of polymers, antioxidants, cosmetic oils, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizing agents, preservatives, UV-blocking agents, cosmetic active agents such as vitamins, wettable agents, softeners or collagen- May be further included in consideration of additives.

Those skilled in the art will be able to adjust the type and amount of additives present in the composition according to the present invention in a general manner so that the cosmetic properties and stability required for these compositions are not affected by the additives.

UV  filter

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise at least one UV filter.

Non-limiting examples of UV filters include the following families: anthranilates, especially methyl anthranilate; Benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, preferably benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), preferably benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone- or benzophenone -4 (available from BASF Corporation retrieving Uvinul MS40 ^®); Benzylidene-camphor, especially 3-benzylidene-camphor, benzylidene-camphorsulfonic acid, camphorbenzalkonium methosulfate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicyclosulfonic acid, preferably 4- methyl benzylidene camphor (Merck possible captive available from Eusolex 6300 ^®); Benzimidazole, in particular benzimidazole lay rate (Neo available from Haarmann and Reimer Corporation Heliopan AP ^®), phenyl-benzamide (Eusolex ^® 232, available from Merck Co.) imidazole-sulfonic acid; Benzotriazole, especially drop Trizol trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl phenol (Ciba ^® available from the available Tinosorb M); Cinnamate, especially cinoxate, DEA methoxy cinnamate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxy cinnamate, isopropyl methoxy cinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, preferably ethocrylene (available from BASF Corporation Uvinul N35 ^®), octyl methoxycinnamate (Hoffmann La Roche obtained from the available Parsol MCX ^®), methacrylic or loam (Uvinul ^® 539, available from BASF Corporation) alkylene; Dibenzoylmethane, especially butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 ^® ); Imidazoline, especially ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABA, especially ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA and PEG-25 PABA, preferably diethylhexylbutamidotriazone (Uvasorb HEB ^® available from 3 V Sigma) ethylhexyl triazol zone (available from BASF Corporation as possible Uvinul T150 ^®) or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); Salicylate, especially dipropylene glycol salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; Triazine, in particular not small-triazine ^(® Ciba's Tinosorb S); Mention may be made of dromatolisol siloxane, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, which are coated or non-coated.

Preferably, cinnamate, salicylate and mixtures thereof, or titanium dioxide are preferably used. According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a UV filter selected from cinnamate.

According to a particular embodiment, octylmethoxycinnamate, also named ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate, is preferably used.

The amount of filter depends on the desired end use. The amount is, for example, from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be in the form of a liquid foundation or a liquid foundation, a hot-poured foundation product, a body make-up product, a concealer, an eye shadow, or a make-up base.

The skin care composition according to the present invention may in particular be a sunscreen composition, skin care cream, serum or deodorant.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention is in the form of a foundation.

The compositions according to the invention can be applied by means of even distributing means, such as a finger or a cotton pad, a rod, a brush, a gauze, a spatula or a buffer, or by spraying, Can be removed using a detergent.

The compositions of the present invention can be applied to improve the general condition of the epithelium, particularly the skin, and in particular to maintain or restore physiological function and / or aesthetic appearance.

Thus, the compositions of the present invention are advantageously used to prevent aging of the epithelium, to maintain and / or stimulate moisturization, and / or to prevent drying of the skin, to improve skin tone, to maintain the flexibility and elasticity of the skin Or to restore the epithelium, improve the mineralization of the epithelium, improve the vitality of the epithelium, promote cell-to-cell exchange, and prevent roughness and wrinkled appearance of the skin.

The compositions according to the invention may be intended for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications.

The present invention also relates to cosmetic compositions for the cosmetic composition for skin care and / or make-up, in particular for the cosmetic use of at least one colorant and at least one of the above-mentioned compounds of the formula (I) For therapeutic use, the composition is in the form of a oil-in-water emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in an oil phase,

The water phase is 40% to 55% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to cosmetic use, in particular non-therapeutic use, of at least one colorant and at least one jasmonic acid derivative of the compound of formula (I) for the prevention of skin aging, Water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in water,

The water phase is 40% to 55% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a method of treating cosmetic treatments, comprising applying the composition described above to the skin.

The present invention is also directed to a non-therapeutic skin care and / or makeup method comprising applying to the skin at least one layer of a composition as described above.

The present invention also relates to a skin make-up method to which the above-described composition is applied.

Example

Definition of stability

According to the present invention, the term "stable emulsion " refers to an emulsion that does not exhibit any macroscopic changes after storage at room temperature (20-22 DEG C) for 7 days.

Stability is performed on 300 g of product packed in a 660 ml bottle, hermetically sealed by an aluminum lid.

A - Award  Effect of Content on Stability

The examples of Fluid Foundation 1 to 7 can show that the stability of the foundation is inadequate when the water content is less than 40%.

step

The ingredients of A1 were weighed into a primary beaker and homogenized at 1200-1400 rpm using a Moritz mixer at room temperature.

Then, the A2 phase and then the A3 phase, which are pre-milled by hand, are added and finally the A4 phase is added, stirring is continued for 15 minutes until homogeneous.

The A5 phase is prepared separately by pulverizing the mixture of pigment and cyclohexasiloxane three times in a three-roll mill.

The A5 phase is added to the main beaker with a gradual increase in the stirring speed of the Moritz mixer at 1400-1500 rpm and stirring is continued for 20 minutes.

The components of phase B are weighed individually, except for the jasmonic acid derivative and phenoxyethanol. Homogenize using a magnetic mixer at a temperature of about 30-35 < 0 > C, and then introduce a jasmonic acid derivative and phenoxyethanol.

The emulsification is then carried out by pouring the phase B into the main beaker, gradually increasing the stirring speed to 4000 rpm, and then keeping it at this speed for 10 minutes.

Then, the stirring speed is slightly reduced, and ethanol and fragrance are added. The mixture is further stirred for 2 minutes, and the product is packed in a glass bottle.

Stability result

These results show that when the water phase is more than 40%, the composition is stable.

B - Award  Effect of Content on Cosmetic Properties

A comparison of the fluids foundations of Examples 1 and 8 shows that cosmetic properties of the foundation are not good when the water content is above 55%.

Example  Procedure of 8

The ingredients in A1 are weighed into the main beaker and homogenized at 1500 rpm using a Moritz mixer at room temperature.

Then, the A2 phase and then the A3 phase, which are pre-milled by hand, are added and finally the A4 phase is added, stirring is continued for 15 minutes until homogeneous.

The A5 phase is prepared separately by pulverizing the mixture of pigment and cyclohexasiloxane three times in a three-roll mill.

The A5 phase is added to the main beaker with a gradual increase in the stirring speed of the Moritz mixer at 1600 rpm and stirring is continued for 20 minutes.

The components of phase B are weighed individually, except for the jasmonic acid derivative and phenoxyethanol. Homogenized using a magnetic mixer at a temperature of about 30-35 < 0 > C, followed by introduction of a jasmonic acid derivative and phenoxyethanol.

The emulsification is then carried out by pouring the phase B into the main beaker, gradually increasing the stirring speed to 4000 rpm, and then keeping it at this speed for 10 minutes.

Then, the stirring speed is slightly reduced, and ethanol and fragrance are added. The mixture is further stirred for 2 minutes, and the product is packed in a glass bottle.

Sensory evaluation

The present inventors have asked a panel of four women aged 20 to 50 years to apply two different foundations to each half of their faces.

In this evaluation, the Foundation of Example 1 (invention) was easy to apply and appeared to be softer and more pleasant. When the makeup is made with the foundation of Example 8 (Comparative Example), there are more powders, which tend to show an increase in incomplete portions (pores, wrinkles). After application, a harder and thicker film is formed.

As a result, women in the panel prefer a foundation of Example 1 (invention).

Claims (15)

A cosmetic composition, comprising: a physiologically acceptable medium;
At least one colorant; And
At least one jasmonic acid derivative compound of formula (I), and optical isomers and corresponding salts thereof:

Wherein:
. R ₁ is a radical COOR ₃ , R ₃ is a hydrogen atom, or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
. R ₂ is a linear or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms,
The cosmetic composition is in the form of oil-in-water emulsion containing water phase dispersed in the fat phase,
Wherein the water phase is from 40 wt% to 55 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The method according to claim 1,
In formula (I), R ₁ is -COOH, -COOCH ₃ , -COO-CH ₂ -CH ₃ , -COO-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ OH, -COOCH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ OH and -COOCH ₂ -CH (OH), cosmetic composition being selected from the group consisting of -CH _3. The method according to claim 1,
A cosmetic composition, wherein in formula (I), R ₂ is a linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 2 to 7 carbon atoms. The method according to claim 1,
A cosmetic composition, wherein in formula (I), R ₁ is -COOH. The method according to claim 1,
Wherein in formula (I), R < ₂ > is selected from the group consisting of pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl radicals. The method according to claim 1,
A cosmetic composition characterized in that the compound of formula (I) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentanedioic acid or 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentanedioic acid sodium salt. The method according to claim 1,
The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the compound of formula (I) is introduced as an aqueous phase and the content thereof is 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the colorant is selected from the group consisting of pigments, dyes and interferential particles. 9. The method of claim 8,
Wherein the coloring agent is selected from pigments. The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the water phase comprises water, in which case it may be a mixture with a water-soluble additive and / or a solvent. The method according to claim 1,
Characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises an additive selected from the group consisting of water-soluble active ingredients, preservatives, salts, gelling agents, fillers, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, and mixtures thereof. The method according to claim 1,
A cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises at least one UV filter. The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the cosmetic composition is in the form of a fluid foundation. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing skin aging,
At least one colorant in a composition in the oil-in-water-emulsion form comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in an oil phase, and at least one jasmonic acid derivative compound of the formula (I) and optical isomers and corresponding salts thereof, To: < / RTI >

Wherein:
. R ₁ is a radical COOR ₃ , R ₃ is a hydrogen atom, or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
. R ₂ is a linear or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms,
Wherein the water phase is from 40% to 55% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. A non-therapeutic skin care and / or make-up method, comprising applying the composition according to claim 1 to the skin in one or more layers.