US1360327A - Method for laying out garments and ruler therefor - Google Patents

Description

I. STARER. METHOD FOR LAYING OUT GARMENTS AND RULER THEREFOR Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

APPLICATION FILED MR. 17. |917.

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METHOD FOR LAYING OU'l'.'` GARMENTS AND RULER 'IHEREFOR.`

Specification ofLetters Patent.

Patented Nov. 30, 1920.

Application led March 17, 1917. Serial `No. 155,615.

T 0 all tolto-m t may concern Be it known that I, IsAAo STARER, of the city of New York, borough of Manhattan, in the countyof New York and Stateof New York, have` inventeda new and Improved Method for Laying Out Garments and Ruler T herefor, of. which the following is a full, clear, and exact description. Y

My invention relates to an improvement in devices for designing and laying out garments and patterns therefor.

In designing or laying out a pattern for a given garment of a given size, certain essential` points have to be determined and certain lines drawn, (such as the waist line, back neck line, etc.,) which vary according to the kind and size of garment to be laid out. These points are known to all skilled designers and the exact lengths of these lines for a given size of garment have become definitely determined through eXperience,`some of them being known directly, others depending for their value upon certain numerical computations to be made by the designe-r.

In the course of my experience in cutting garments, I have discovered that certain measurements are fixed for various `sizes and do not change with the change in style. Such measurements are the neck width and height both in front and back, arm hole width, front and back shoulder heights (measured bottom of arm hole), scye depth and depth of arm hole. I have also found that the front neck width for every size equals the arm hole width.

All other points vary with the change in style and the designer should, therefore, be left free to vary them `without in any way interfering with the other measurements, as cross back and chest.

Moreover, hitherto, in previous systems,

horizontal measurements were taken from a vertical base line." In my system, measurements are taken from back center line. This makes it possible for the designerto embody in my system any desiredstyle and measurement, as tight fit, semi and loose fit.

Furthermore, according to my method, the various parts of the design may be obtained .independently by simple constructions, so

that if an error should creep into the layout of one of the parts, this error will not be `carried over into the other parts. Thus, the front and back, for instance, may be laid out independently. This is a great advantage as very often it is desired to vary the style in one without changing the other.

The improved process also provides means whereby the most important measurements may be readily checked.

To carry out the process, I provide an im proved form of ruler having scales so dis posed that substantially none of the 4space on the ruler is wasted and the maximum measurements obtained on one edge of the ruler. This makes it possible to use a single length ruler which may be readily carried about the person of the designer instead of the large, clumsy designers squares such as hitherto used.

Referring to the drawings,

Figure 1 is a plan view of one side of my ruler,

Fig. Z is a plan view of the other side of the ruler,

i Fig. 3 is a view of a chart showing the manner of laying out a pattern for a ladys jacket, and shows the general method of the use of the ruler.

My improved ruler has scales for design ing ladies jackets and mens and childrens coats as well as other garments such as ladies7 skirts and mens trousers. i

The ruler as herein shown has uponone side thereof on the lower edge, Fig. l, scales A, B and C, subdivided for all sizesof garments from lll to 4S. Scale A is designed to be used for the depth of the arm hole; scale B for the scye depth and scale C for the bust line, all of them for ladies? garments.

On` the same edge and side of the ruler will alsoy be found scales 1,2 and 3, respectively, subdivided foreach size and which scales are used for laying out the following measurements. i

Scale l for the front neck and arm hole width; scale 2 for the cross back and cross chest, and scale 3 for the back neck. There is also scaley number 9 for ladies nine gore skirts.

`On the same side of the ruler, but on the opposite edge are scale 6 and scale 7. Scale 6 is subdivided for the different sizes for the purpose of measurement of hips for skirts,

--and scale 7 is subdivided for the different Von each scale.

Afloust line passes.

B and@ arelaid off as aforement-ioned, the

sizes for the purpose of measuring sleeves and shoulder heights.

The stars SS 4along the ruller indicate the division lines between each scale.

Fig. 2 shows the other side of the ruler. On one edge are scales D, E and F, applicable to mens garments. Scale D is for the depth of arm hole; scale E for the sc ve depth, and scale F is for the bust line, each scale being subdivided for different sizes. The same edge also has scale number 4, subdivided in sizes for measurement of trousers. Scale number 5 is applicable for the waist measure of ladies skirts, and subdivided in various sizes.v On the opposite edge of the same side of the ruler are scales Gr, H and I. Scales G, II and I are for the measurement ofy childrens garments; G being for depth of arm hole; H for the scye depth, and I for the bust line.

On the same edge are also scales 11, 13, 15, I7, 19 and 2l for the measurement of corresponding number gores of ladies skirts.

The use and application of the ruler and its various scales will become evident from the following example. Suppose it be required to make a pattern for a ladies jacket, size 36. For this purpose, weV use scales A, B and C, and scales 1, 2, 3 and 7. Re ferring to Fig. 3, the ruler is placed vertically on the cloth or sheet of paper from which the pattern is to be made, near or along the right edge thereof, and a line is drawn along the edge of the `ruler of an 'f the garment of size 36, mark ofi" on the line 'from the rule in each of the three section scales A, B and C, the'desired size, 36, from each scale. Ifsize et() should be desired, mark olf from the scale on the line at ll() The lines drawn from the points A, B and C are the fundamental lines on which the garment is built. rlhe distance A to C is called the arm-hole depth and is the equivalent of a line taken from the middle portion at the back of the neck over the shoulder to the front lower depth of the arm-hole. l.

AThe point A marked off as above is the center of the neck while the point B marks the point of the scye. That is the point from which the'scyedepthis measured, while the point C marks the point through which the I have so graduated the scales A, B and C that when the points A distances between the corresponding size lgra-duations will give a certain required fundamental measurement. Thus, the distance from A to B, that is between Jthe 36 marks on scale B to C will always bethe scye depth corresponding to the garment of size 36, while the distance from A to C, that is from the center of the neck down to the bust line is accuratelT the depth of the arm hole. The latter fact is empirical, that is to say, I have found that measuringfrom the center of the neck down 'to the bust line gives accuratel7 the required arm hole depth. Erect perpendiculars at the points B and (l of any convenient length.

New place the ruler so that the end Q ol' side shown on Fig. 1 is at point B of lf`ig. 3, and measure oit from B to the second star X2, getting point 1. Now use scale 3, making end P coincide with B, and starting at point B, measure on the perpendicular at B to the required size on scale 3, obtaining point 2. Now connect the points 1 and 2 by a line which gives the back neck.

From point 1 on Fig. 3, measure down on line A-B`C a suitable distance, sav fifteen inches, to obtain the waist line D. rl`his distance may vary according to the st'vle. and according to the individual, whether she is long or short waisted.

`Erect a perpendicular at point D and measure off on this line from point D onehalf inch, getting point Z. Connect points Z and 1 by a straight line. The intersection of this line Z-l with the perpendicular at C, gives the point Y on Fig. 3.

IVe will assume that the cross back in the garment is 13:1A inches. On the perpendicular C-Y, measure off from Y on scale number 2 beginning at end Q, of the ruler on side shown in Fig. 1, 13:)Y units (the scale is in half inches), and thus get point l#` (F Y represents the cross back). Measure the distance FQY and lav it ofi? from B on the perpendicular erected at point B, thus getting point G. Connect points G and F.' On line F-G, beginning` with F, measure up on the ruler, using scale A from its end Q to the first star X and thus get point 6.

Now use scale 7, placing` the upper edge, Fig. 1, ofthe ruler along the line F G, with end P at point 6, and measure oft on said scale to the rquired size 36 on division 71 of said scale 7, and get point (Point lmarks the back shoulder height). Connect points 2 and 4 by a line and measure six inches on it from 2 getting point 13. (Line 2 to 13 is the length of the shoulder).

On the line l-G, measure ofil from F two and one-quarter inches to the left of I" and get point 5. Draw a perpendicular to line C F (continued) at point 5 downward in the direction of line C-D lVleasure down 0n this perpendicular from point 5, seven Yand one-quarter inches and point Il.

ond star X2 on scale A, and get point 7. `Now connectpoints 7 and 5 by a straight line.

On the line C--F beginning at point F, measure from end Q of the ruler, scale 1 to the required size (36) and get point 8. The distance between points F and 8 represents the arm hole width. i

Nowplace the ruler so that scale number 2 lies with end Q at point 8 and measure on line 8-Y, the required size (to division mark 16gon scale number 2), on said scale, and get point I. Now measure the distance from I to C, and measure off the same distance from B on the perpendicular at B, and get point L, Fig. 3. l

Now using scale A, place the ruler with end Q at point L and measure along L-B from L to the first starXl, thus getting point M, and holding the ruler in the same position, measure off to thethird star X3, and mark it point N, and connect points N and I.

Now place the ruler so that the edge runs through the points M and I, and beginning with point I, draw a linedownward rornI. Using scale number 1, place the ruler with its end Q at point M, and measure M along IVI-B to the required size (36) on scale number 1, and get point O. Erect a perpendicular to M--B at point C, and measure off on this perpendicular Jfrom end Q of the ruler to the fourth star X4 on scale A, getting point T. Measurethe distance from Y to Z and lay ofi. this Vdistance plus one and one-quarter inches from I in the direction of the straight line through MI getting point R,

-thus obtaining front length of waist. Measure the distance from I to 8, andlay off thesame distance along B`-N frompoint N,

`and get point 10. Connect points S and 10.

lDraw a line of any convenient length through points T and 10. On this line P-10, measure down from point T a distance of eight inches for size 36, and get point 21.

Cn line H--D measure oil from point H to the right of the same distance as from `Z aiidI) and getpoint 7 and then measure off along .II-D thissaine distance `from II to the right of II and `get point 18.` Connect points 5 and 18 and 5 and 7 by straight lines as shown in Fig. 3. l

Using scale 7, place the ruler along line 2 4` with its end P at point 2 and measure off on scale 7 to the required size36 in division a, of this scale and get point 15. Measure the distance 2-15 and lay this of from D-Z Valong Z-II and get point K. Connect I-v15. Bydrawing from K-15, the intersections of line K-l with the Y--I line, gives point 24.

Prolong Y--`Z, six inches below Z, and get point E, and erect a perpendicular to the line at point of the same length as the line I)K, `thus getting oint 23.

Measure the distance Jfrom to 6 and lay 23 to 28, getting point 26.

it off along line 2-13 from point 15` and get point 14;. Connect 14 to 24 by a straight line. Measure the distance from 7 to II and lay it oft along D-K from K, getting point J. .lonnect points 24 and J by a straight line. i

' A y Measure from R along It--II the same dis- 22 getting point 30. From 19 lay off on line lit-II one and one-quarter inches. i This gives point 20. Connect points 30 and 20.

` From 23 along the line 23--E measure one inch getting point 28. Connect J-28 which should be six inches long. From II measure down six inches along line 5-I-I prolonged and get point25. Connect 7 25.

vProlong line I-R and measure frein R six` inches down along I-R and get point 29. At this point 29 erect a perpendicular Ato R429 and lay ofi on it to the right from 29 a distance equal to the distance Jfrom E to 23, obtaining point 36. Connect points 19 and 36 by a straight line. i This line 19-36 should be six inches long. From point 3G along the perpendicular 19-3G measure ofi a length equalto the distance between the `points `19 and 20. This" determines point 27 Join points 20 and 27 by the straight line E20-27, which should also be six inches long and whichis in the prolongation of the line 304-20. At point 27 erect a perpendicu Alar to line 27-20 This perpendicular cuts the line 7-25 a little above25. From the intersection of this perpendicular with 7-*25 measure oil' to the right along this perpendiculara length equal to the distance from Measure from I two and one-half inches, `(or a distance to suit along line C-I to the left of I, thus getting point 34C). `lVIeasure also two andone-half inches from point R along line -II--R prolonged getting point 33. Draw ahstraight line through points 34 and 33. The `intersection of this line 311-33 with the perpendicular 29-36 prolonged gives point35. y

i Shape the back neck, arm hole and front neck as shown in Fig. 3. i i

Shape `all curves as shown in Fig. 3..

"When the layout is complete, the depth of arm hole may be checked by measuring the distancebetween points 'l andS and adding to it the length of line 1-2 the back neck line. The sum thus found should equal the length A-Ofdetermined. by the ruler atthe beginning of the layout. The, front shoulder height 8-10fmay be checked by laying oli?y pointy 9 onv line 10-8 extending downward whichl is three-quarter inch down from point 8 on scale number 7. Division C and point 10 should correspond to the size indicated, as for instance size 3G, in the present case.

Various modifications may be resorted to without departingl from the spirit of the in- Vention andtherscopethereof as set forth in the following claims:

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent l. The methodof laying out a garment consisting in drawing a vertical base line and a horizontal base line, laying off on the vertical. base line standard points for the neck depth: and bustl line, laying out on the horizontal: base line a standard point for the back neck width, drawing the back center line at an angle to the Vertical base line from the back neck depth point, then measuring upon the bust line from the back center line a length corresponding to the cross back length oi the individual person, measuring from the point so found a standard width corresponding tothe arm hole width, and then obtaining other points by measurement and making the front neck width equal to the arm hole width.

2. The method of laying out a garment consisting in drawing Vertical and horizontal base lines, measuring the standard lengths of the back-neck width, back neck depth and bust line on the two base lines, drawing the back center line atan angle to the vertical base line from -the back neck Y depth point, measuring the cross back and arm hole width upon the bust line from the back center line, measuring the bust upon the bust line, laying out the arm hole block lines parallel to the center back line, laying out the front center line parallel to the arm hole block lines, laying oif on the upper horizontal base -line from the front center line, front neck widthy equal to the arm hole width, erecting a perpendicular from the inner front neck width point and laying 0E a standard length thereon equal to the front neck depth and drawing the front shoulder line from the point so found through the intersection of the front arm hole block line and the upperba'se line.

3. The method of laying out a garment consisting in drawing vertical and horizontal base lines,`measuring on the vertical base line extendedupwardly a point Jfor indicating arm hole depth, a back neckdepth point, a bust line point and also awaist line point corresponding to the size and style, then measuring back neck .width on the horizontal base line, drawing the. back center line at an angle to the vertical base line, laying off on the upper horizontal base line from the front center line, front neck width equal to the arm hole width, erecting a perpendicular from the inner front neck width point and layingoit a standard length thereon equal to the front neck depth and drawing the front shoulder line from the point so found through the intersection of the front arm hole block line and the upper base line, then checking the arm hole depth appearing on the layout from the arm hole depth indicated on thek vertical base line.

4. The method of laying out a garment consisting in drawing vertical and horizontal base lines, measuring the standard lengths of the back neck width, back neck depth and bust line point on the two base `lines drawing the back renter line at an angle to the vertical base line from the back neck depth point, measuring the cross back and arm hole width upon the bust line from the back center line, measuring the bust upon the bust line, laying out the arm hole block lines parallel to the center back line, laying out the front center line parallel to the arm hole block lines, measuring a standard distance upon the horizontal base line with respect to the front center line to thus .determine a standard point and drawing a continuation of the front center line from its intersection with the bust line, this continuation being determined from the said point of intersection and said standard point with reference to the front center line, laying oil on the arm hole depth and bust line a standard distance to the left of the right arm hole block` line, drawing a line from this point downward parallel to the back center line to obtain the back and front junction line, drawing a waist line perpendicular to the vertical base line up to the back and front junction line, laying off the distance of the arm hole line from the back waist line upon the front center line, measuring downwardly from the intersection with the bust line and adding to this length a standard amount, connecting the point so found with the intersection of the waist line and the back and front junction line to obtain the front waist line, laying olf on the waist line from the intersection of the back and front junction line and the waist line standard distances and laying oi from the points so found angular lines and measuring on said angular lines equal distances to determine the bottom line of the garment and measuring distances downward from the front waist line to correspond with the bottom line so found.

5. A ruler for laying out garments having scales for indicating the point for the horizontal base line, scye depth and bust line, and a scale on a. line with the first mentioned scales whereby the arm hole depth may be CII llO

directly indicated While laying out the first two points, such arm hole depth being a check upon the arm hole depth as found in the course of laying out the garment.

6. A ruler for laying out garments havin in combination With the scye depth, bust an back neck Width scales' one standard point disposed at a fixed distance from the end of the ruler for yindicatirtgg; the back neck depth constituting an average depth which may be 10 used for all sizes.

Sivned at New York city, in the county of NewbYork and State of New York, this 27 th day of February, 1917.

ISAAC STARER. Witnesses:

M. S. MILLER, D. B. KLEIN.

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