WO1997017944A1 - Cosmetic formulations containing balanced mixtures of natural-origin anionic polymers and process for topical application of same - Google Patents
Cosmetic formulations containing balanced mixtures of natural-origin anionic polymers and process for topical application of same Download PDFInfo
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- WO1997017944A1 WO1997017944A1 PCT/IT1996/000210 IT9600210W WO9717944A1 WO 1997017944 A1 WO1997017944 A1 WO 1997017944A1 IT 9600210 W IT9600210 W IT 9600210W WO 9717944 A1 WO9717944 A1 WO 9717944A1
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- Prior art keywords
- gel
- cosmetic formulations
- formulations according
- structured
- gel material
- Prior art date
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 41
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 34
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 26
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 21
- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 9
- 229920006318 anionic polymer Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 7
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 49
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 150000004804 polysaccharides Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 235000010443 alginic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 229920000615 alginic acid Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 229920001817 Agar Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 239000011159 matrix material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 239000001814 pectin Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 229920001277 pectin Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 235000010987 pectin Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 239000008272 agar Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 229920001586 anionic polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 150000004836 anionic polysaccharides Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 239000012153 distilled water Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- FHVDTGUDJYJELY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 6-{[2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxy-6-(phosphanyloxy)oxan-3-yl]oxy}-4,5-dihydroxy-3-phosphanyloxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound O1C(C(O)=O)C(P)C(O)C(O)C1OC1C(C(O)=O)OC(OP)C(O)C1O FHVDTGUDJYJELY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 229940072056 alginate Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 238000003892 spreading Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- 238000007598 dipping method Methods 0.000 claims abstract 4
- YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N salicylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- UXVMQQNJUSDDNG-UHFFFAOYSA-L Calcium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].[Cl-].[Ca+2] UXVMQQNJUSDDNG-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000686 essence Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N papa-hydroxy-benzoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229960004889 salicylic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000012190 activator Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000002503 metabolic effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 claims description 3
- 159000000007 calcium salts Chemical class 0.000 abstract 2
- 239000012266 salt solution Substances 0.000 abstract 2
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 20
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000010943 off-gassing Methods 0.000 description 5
- 229920005615 natural polymer Polymers 0.000 description 4
- IAJILQKETJEXLJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Galacturonsaeure Natural products O=CC(O)C(O)C(O)C(O)C(O)=O IAJILQKETJEXLJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 241000208680 Hamamelis mollis Species 0.000 description 3
- 229920002230 Pectic acid Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 229920005372 Plexiglas® Polymers 0.000 description 3
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000783 alginic acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229960001126 alginic acid Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 150000004781 alginic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 238000010348 incorporation Methods 0.000 description 3
- LCLHHZYHLXDRQG-ZNKJPWOQSA-N pectic acid Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)O[C@H](C(O)=O)[C@@H]1OC1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](OC2[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O2)C(O)=O)O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 LCLHHZYHLXDRQG-ZNKJPWOQSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000010318 polygalacturonic acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000004926 polymethyl methacrylate Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229940118846 witch hazel Drugs 0.000 description 3
- IXPNQXFRVYWDDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-methyl-2,4-dioxo-1,3-diazinane-5-carboximidamide Chemical compound CN1CC(C(N)=N)C(=O)NC1=O IXPNQXFRVYWDDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- BHPQYMZQTOCNFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Calcium cation Chemical compound [Ca+2] BHPQYMZQTOCNFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 102000016942 Elastin Human genes 0.000 description 2
- 108010014258 Elastin Proteins 0.000 description 2
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N Glucose Natural products OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N 0.000 description 2
- AEMRFAOFKBGASW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycolic acid Natural products OCC(O)=O AEMRFAOFKBGASW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 2
- PVNIIMVLHYAWGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Niacin Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 PVNIIMVLHYAWGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc monoxide Chemical compound [Zn]=O XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- IAJILQKETJEXLJ-RSJOWCBRSA-N aldehydo-D-galacturonic acid Chemical group O=C[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)C(O)=O IAJILQKETJEXLJ-RSJOWCBRSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229910001424 calcium ion Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 229920002549 elastin Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 230000032050 esterification Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000005886 esterification reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000008103 glucose Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000017 hydrogel Substances 0.000 description 2
- JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N lactic acid Chemical compound CC(O)C(O)=O JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000012528 membrane Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000003607 modifier Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 235000010413 sodium alginate Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000000661 sodium alginate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229940005550 sodium alginate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000017423 tissue regeneration Effects 0.000 description 2
- GHOKWGTUZJEAQD-ZETCQYMHSA-N (D)-(+)-Pantothenic acid Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)[C@@H](O)C(=O)NCCC(O)=O GHOKWGTUZJEAQD-ZETCQYMHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-REOHCLBHSA-N (S)-malic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](O)CC(O)=O BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QYYMDNHUJFIDDQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 5-chloro-2-methyl-1,2-thiazol-3-one;2-methyl-1,2-thiazol-3-one Chemical compound CN1SC=CC1=O.CN1SC(Cl)=CC1=O QYYMDNHUJFIDDQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920000936 Agarose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O Ammonium Chemical compound [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 1
- OYPRJOBELJOOCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Calcium Chemical compound [Ca] OYPRJOBELJOOCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 102000008186 Collagen Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108010035532 Collagen Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 241000195493 Cryptophyta Species 0.000 description 1
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-QTVWNMPRSA-N D-mannopyranose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-QTVWNMPRSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N Dextrotartaric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C(O)=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000006200 Glycyrrhiza glabra Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 244000303040 Glycyrrhiza glabra Species 0.000 description 1
- IAJILQKETJEXLJ-SQOUGZDYSA-N L-guluronic acid Chemical group O=C[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C(O)=O IAJILQKETJEXLJ-SQOUGZDYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Potassium Chemical compound [K] ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 108010009736 Protein Hydrolysates Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 241000206572 Rhodophyta Species 0.000 description 1
- 244000178231 Rosmarinus officinalis Species 0.000 description 1
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tartaric acid Natural products [H+].[H+].[O-]C(=O)C(O)C(O)C([O-])=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 208000027418 Wounds and injury Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 241000589636 Xanthomonas campestris Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 1
- IAJILQKETJEXLJ-QTBDOELSSA-N aldehydo-D-glucuronic acid Chemical compound O=C[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)C(O)=O IAJILQKETJEXLJ-QTBDOELSSA-N 0.000 description 1
- -1 algmates Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940061720 alpha hydroxy acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000001280 alpha hydroxy acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N alpha-hydroxysuccinic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(O)CC(O)=O BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AEMOLEFTQBMNLQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N beta-D-galactopyranuronic acid Natural products OC1OC(C(O)=O)C(O)C(O)C1O AEMOLEFTQBMNLQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N beta-D-glucose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012620 biological material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001222 biopolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000011575 calcium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052791 calcium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000010410 calcium alginate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000648 calcium alginate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960002681 calcium alginate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000001110 calcium chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001628 calcium chloride Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- OKHHGHGGPDJQHR-YMOPUZKJSA-L calcium;(2s,3s,4s,5s,6r)-6-[(2r,3s,4r,5s,6r)-2-carboxy-6-[(2r,3s,4r,5s,6r)-2-carboxylato-4,5,6-trihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylate Chemical compound [Ca+2].O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@H](O)O[C@@H](C([O-])=O)[C@H]1O[C@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O2)C([O-])=O)O)[C@H](C(O)=O)O1 OKHHGHGGPDJQHR-YMOPUZKJSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 150000001768 cations Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 210000002421 cell wall Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000005119 centrifugation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004927 clay Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000015271 coagulation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005345 coagulation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001436 collagen Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- AEMOLEFTQBMNLQ-YBSDWZGDSA-N d-mannuronic acid Chemical group O[C@@H]1O[C@@H](C(O)=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H]1O AEMOLEFTQBMNLQ-YBSDWZGDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000006378 damage Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000855 fermentation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004151 fermentation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930182478 glucoside Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 229940097043 glucuronic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000004676 glycans Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229930182470 glycoside Natural products 0.000 description 1
- LPLVUJXQOOQHMX-QWBHMCJMSA-N glycyrrhizinic acid Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O[C@@H]1O[C@@H]1C([C@H]2[C@]([C@@H]3[C@@]([C@@]4(CC[C@@]5(C)CC[C@@](C)(C[C@H]5C4=CC3=O)C(O)=O)C)(C)CC2)(C)CC1)(C)C)C(O)=O)[C@@H]1O[C@H](C(O)=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O LPLVUJXQOOQHMX-QWBHMCJMSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001963 growth medium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007654 immersion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011065 in-situ storage Methods 0.000 description 1
- 208000014674 injury Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 150000008040 ionic compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000002500 ions Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000004310 lactic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000014655 lactic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000011477 liquorice Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001630 malic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011090 malic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002609 medium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 244000005700 microbiome Species 0.000 description 1
- 150000002772 monosaccharides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000001968 nicotinic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011664 nicotinic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960003512 nicotinic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940014662 pantothenate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019161 pantothenic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011713 pantothenic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003175 pectinic acid Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000035479 physiological effects, processes and functions Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- XAEFZNCEHLXOMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M potassium benzoate Chemical compound [K+].[O-]C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 XAEFZNCEHLXOMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 238000001556 precipitation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001681 protective effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003531 protein hydrolysate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 235000011962 puddings Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- ZUFQODAHGAHPFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyridoxine hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.CC1=NC=C(CO)C(CO)=C1O ZUFQODAHGAHPFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000002020 sage Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 241000894007 species Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011975 tartaric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000002906 tartaric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011726 vitamin B6 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/733—Alginic acid; Salts thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
Definitions
- Cosmetic formulations containing balanced mixtures of natural-origin anionic polymers and process for topical application of same Cosmetic formulations containing balanced mixtures of natural-origin anionic polymers and process for topical application of same.
- the polymers of natural origin relating to the present invention are some anionic polysaccharides that have been already widely used in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and foodstuff field to an industrial level. In accordance with the known art, they are pectin, algmates, xanthan gum and agar. Pectin.
- the alginic acid is a natural polymer of a gelatm-like appearance which is present in different species of brown manne algae. From a chemical point of view it is a polyuronic acid consisting of D-mannuronic acid and L-guluronic acid bonded to each other by Bl-4 glycoside bonds.
- the molecular weight of the natural polymer may vary between 30000 and 200000, depending on the polymerization degree of same. Salification and esterification of the molecule leads to production of alginates.
- xanthan gum It is a high-molecular-weight (beyond one million) natural polysaccharide produced by means of a fermentation process of glucose with microorganism Xanthomonas campestris.
- mannose mannose
- glucose also present as sodium, calcium and potassium salt
- This polymer in contact with water, forms highly viscous solutions which are affected to a low degree by pH and the presence of salts.
- the xanthan gum is employed in the cosmetic and foodstuff field mainly as a viscosity- increasing and suspension-promoting agent. Agar.
- the essential object of the present invention is therefore to obviate the restrictions of the known art by providing formulations in which the different natural polymers are combined with each other in a balanced manner so as to obtain topical preparations having physical properties different from those achievable with the individual components.
- Another object of the present invention is to provide a process foi topical application of these cosmetic formulations .
- the preparation will have a rigid structure well adhering to gauzes and removable in the form of a skin imprint mold.
- a mechanical peeling effect is obtained; (b) by a wet sponge or mere rinsing.
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Cosmetic formulations containing balanced mixtures of natural-origin anionic polymers, made up of a gel material consisting of a balanced mixture of anionic polysaccharides of natural origin containing 0.1 % to 5 % of a soluble alginate, 0.01 % to 0.5 % of agar, 0.01 % to 0.5 % of pectin and 0.05 % to 1 % of xanthan gum, the balance being water. The process for topical application of the gel material comprises the following operating steps: spreading a polysaccharide matrix of said gel material over a plate; levelling said polysaccharide matrix to a homogeneous layer of predetermined thickness; dipping said plate into a 1 % calcium salt solution for about 5 minutes; subsequently dipping said plate into a 2 % calcium salt solution for about 2 minutes; thereby obtaining a structured gel provided with a physical pattern of its own; separating said structured gel from said plate; subsequently washing said structured gel in distilled water.
Description
Description.
Cosmetic formulations containing balanced mixtures of natural-origin anionic polymers and process for topical application of same.
Technical Field.
The invention relates to cosmetic formulations containing balanced mixtures of natural-origin anionic polymers and the process for topical application of same. More particularly, topical preparations are concerned which have defined featuies and contain balanced mixtures of anionic polysaccharides of natural origin.
Background Art.
The physicochemical properties of the used polymers give the preparations the possibility of taking defined and structurally different physical patterns, in addition to a clear moisturing and film-forming power, thereby extending the application possibilities of same above all in the field of the skin and scalp physiology. In particular, preparations can be in the form of a classic viscoelastic gel which however is capable of, upon appropnate treatments, converting in situ into a film of easy removal from the skin at the end of the treatment period, or they can at once exhibit a defined and structured physical pattern, while keeping the moisturing and film- forming properties of the starting gel (a gel structured in the form of a membrane) unchanged. The polymers of natural origin relating to the present invention are some anionic polysaccharides that have been already widely used in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and foodstuff field to an industrial level. In accordance with the known art, they are pectin, algmates, xanthan gum and agar.
Pectin.
It is a natural polymer consisting of many molecules of galacturonic acid bonded to each other by Bl-4 glucoside bonds; its molecular weight may even be higher than 200000. Based on the esterification degree of the galacturonic acid with methyl groups, pectins separate into pectic acid (containing a low percentage of methoxyls) and pectinic acid (containing a high percentage of methoxyls). Both moieties are present in kind as essential constituents of the vegetable cell walls. These anionic polysaccharides dissolve in water at high temperatures giving origin to solutions that subsequently, when cooled in an acidic medium, form a gel. Pectin moieties have found wide use in the foodstuff field where they are utilized to give consistency to jams, ice¬ creams, puddings, whereas in the cosmetic technology these polysaccharides are mainly employed as rheologic modifiers .
Alginates.
The alginic acid is a natural polymer of a gelatm-like appearance which is present in different species of brown manne algae. From a chemical point of view it is a polyuronic acid consisting of D-mannuronic acid and L-guluronic acid bonded to each other by Bl-4 glycoside bonds. The molecular weight of the natural polymer may vary between 30000 and 200000, depending on the polymerization degree of same. Salification and esterification of the molecule leads to production of alginates. The alginic acid is not very soluble in water, m contrast with most alginates (sodium, potassium, ammonium and propylene glycol ones), which are very hydrophilic and possess strong colloidal properties; other alginates, on the contrary, such as calcium alginate, have tendency to precipitate giving origin to products having
well defined physical properties. The alginic acid and the soluble alginates are widely used as thickeners in the foodstuff field and as rheologic modifiers and stabilizers in the cosmetic field. These chemical compounds are also used as additives in the pharmaceutical industry, whereas salts and insoluble derivatives thereof have found wide application possibilities in the field of biomaterials, above all in the field of tissue regeneration. Xanthan gum. It is a high-molecular-weight (beyond one million) natural polysaccharide produced by means of a fermentation process of glucose with microorganism Xanthomonas campestris. In the xanthan gum there is present mannose, glucose and glucuronic acid (also present as sodium, calcium and potassium salt), as the main monosaccharides . This polymer, in contact with water, forms highly viscous solutions which are affected to a low degree by pH and the presence of salts. The xanthan gum is employed in the cosmetic and foodstuff field mainly as a viscosity- increasing and suspension-promoting agent. Agar.
It is a complex polysaccharide extracted from thallus of many red algae and consists of two different polysaccharide chains: agarose and agaropectin. The fundamental feature of this polymer is that of forming, already at low concentrations, water solutions capable of gelling at relatively low temperatures and keeping this form at high temperatures as well. It is used in the cosmetic industry as a thickener and in microbiology as a culture medium.
From the above it is apparent that the polymers utilized in the preparations being the object of the present invention have been already widely used individually in the industrial field of interest. As regards in particular preparations of a structured
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physical pattern, although in literature there are already patent references relating to a highly hydrated gel in the form of a self-supporting film (patent application EP No. 91108656.9), to a hydrogel in the form of a membrane made up of hydrophilic biopolymers (patent application EP No. 83301149.7) and to a gel that by drying forms a protective film adhering to the skin (US patent No. 4393048), however these preparations have chemical compositions and features different from those herein described and are addressed to a merely medical use, as they are concerned with the field of injury dressing and tissue regeneration.
Disclosure of the Invention.
The essential object of the present invention is therefore to obviate the restrictions of the known art by providing formulations in which the different natural polymers are combined with each other in a balanced manner so as to obtain topical preparations having physical properties different from those achievable with the individual components.
The foregoing and still other objects are all achieved by the cosmetic formulations containing balanced mixtures of natural-origin anionic polymers, the mam features of which are set forth in the appended claims. Another object of the present invention is to provide a process foi topical application of these cosmetic formulations .
The main features of said process are illustrated in the appended claims. Further features and advantages of the present invention will be best understood from the following detailed description.
The cosmetic preparations being the object of the invention contain an amount included between 0.1% and 5% (by weight) of a soluble alginate, preferably 3% of sodium
alginate; an amount included between 0.1% and 0.5% of agar, preferably 0.05%; an amount included between 0.01% and 0.5% of pectin, preferably 0.1% of pectic acid (moiety of defined molecular weight); an amount of xanthan gum included between 0.05% and 1%, preferably 0,15%; the balance consisting of water. During this step the preparation appears like a viscoelastic hydrogel material characterized by its own rheologic profile, different from that of its components taken individually; the gel material is provided with a high moisturing and film- forming power and it can be used as such or improved by means of the following three different procedures.
1. The gel material can be optionally enriched with different water-soluble and/or water-dispersible active ingredients, such as for example protein hydrolysates (up to 5% by volume), glycolic vegetable extracts (up to 1% by volume), hydroalcoholic fluid essences (up to 1% by weight), inorganic powders (up to 1%) or metabolic activators such as for example vitamins. Incorporation of the functional substances takes place more easily if the active ingredients are added during the matrix preparation step. Salicylic acid to the concentrations afforded by law is utilized as the preserving agent. These preparations have the characteristic that they can be removed from skin using two different modalities: (a) by a mere compress of calcium chloride, executed after spreading, by local application of soaked gauze pads. By this method, at the end of treatment, the preparation will have a rigid structure well adhering to gauzes and removable in the form of a skin imprint mold. Thus, a mechanical peeling effect is obtained; (b) by a wet sponge or mere rinsing.
2. The gel material can be submitted to a working process resulting in a rigid gel of a structure having a defined physical pattern. This process involves spreading of a gel layer of a thickness of 0.3 to 1.5 mm, preferably 0.6 mm,
on a rigid glass or Plexiglas structure the sizes of which are 25 cm x 30 cm, provided with thickness regulators, and submitting the assembly to a bath of a duration of 3 to 10 minutes in a solution containing calcium ions and/or other mono-bi-trivalent ions to a concentration included between 1% and 10%. In the presence of calcium ions, the starting gel undergoes a coagulation process with formation of a structured gel material, of easy handling and well adaptable to the skin surface. Under this physical pattern the gel material can still incorporate active ingredients, provided they are water-soluble; in this case the structured gel is submitted to further baths of a duration of 3 to 10 minutes, in solutions containing the substances intended for incorporation. The nonionic chemical compounds are incorporated quickly, due to the concentration gradient which is formed between the gel water and the bath solution, whereas the ionic substances are incorporated somewhat more slowly due to an exchange phenomenon between the Na""" of the alginate and the cation of the ionic compound. In this manner gels can therefore be enriched with protein hydrolisates, alphahydroxyacids and hydroalcoholic fluid essences.
3. The gel material can be submitted to the physical- structuring process described in the preceding paragraph, even after it has been enriched with the functional substances described in paragraph 1.
After having illustrated the three different gel- preparation procedures, for illustrative purposes alone and not in a limiting sense some examples of preparations containing balanced mixtures of anionic polysaccharides of natural origin obtained in accordance with the modalities described above are set forth hereinafter. Example 1. 1.5 g of agar is dispersed in 100 ml of distilled water bringing the solution to the boiling point m a microwave
oven; after cooling, 33.3 ml of this solution is transferred into one litre of distilled water. Then 2 g of salicylic acid is added and is dissolved bringing the solution to 40°C over a period of 5 to 10 minutes. Next, addition of the other preserving agents takes place, in this case Kathon CG at a final concentration of 0.05%. Meanwhile, a powder mixture containing 30 g of sodium alginate, 1.5 g of xanthan gum and 1.0 g of pectic acid is prepared. This polysaccharide mixture is gradually added to the previously prepared solution under strong stirring. During this step, stirring needs to be reduced each time the solution shows a too quick thickening phenomenon, so as to let polymers hydrate a while; then stirring is started again until the gel material appears to be homogeneous. At this point the preparation is submitted to an outgassing process by centrifugation. Example 2.
30 to 40 ml of a gel prepared following the modalities described in Example 1 is taken out and laid on a Plexiglas plate (25 cm by 30 cm) having a thickness of 0.6 mm at the edges. The polysaccharide matrix is spread over the plate using an appropriate leveling device, made of Plexiglas as well, so as to form a homogeneous layer of the desired thickness. When all the excess material has been carefully removed, the whole plate is dipped first into a 1% calcium chloride solution for 5 minutes and subsequently into a 2% calcium chloride solution for 2 minutes. At the end of the second bath, the starting matrix has been converted to a structured gel provided with its own physical pattern. Once separated from the precipitation plate, the product is washed by immersion into distilled water and preserved in a 0.2% salicylic acid solution. Example 3. The same procedure as in Example 1 is followed, with the
exception that, before adding the balanced polysaccharide mixture, 50 ml of collagen hydrolisate or 50 ml of elastin hydrolisate or 50 ml of a mixture of two proteic hydrolisates is added. After the outgassmg process, the preparation can then be optionally submitted to the physical structuring process described in Example 2. Example 4.
The same procedure as in Example 1 is followed, except the following. Before addition of the balanced polysaccharide mixture, 10 ml of glycolic vegetable extract from rosemary, or witch hazel, or sage, or 10 g of fluid hydroalcoholic essence from camomile, witch hazel or liquorice is added. After the outgassing process, the preparation can be optionally submitted to the physical structuring process 35descπbed m Example 2. Example 5.
The same procedure as in Example 1 is followed, with the exception that, before addition of the balanced polysaccharide mixture, 10 g of clay or zinc oxide is added. After the outgassing process, the preparation can be optionally submitted to the physical structuring process described in Example 2. Example 6. The same procedure as in Example 1 is followed, with the exception that, before addition of the balanced polysaccharide mixture, 5 g of pantothenate or nicotinic acid or vitamin B6 is added. After the outgassing process, the preparation may then be optionally submitted to the physical structuring process described in Example 2. Example 7.
The same procedure as in Example 1 is followed, with the exception that, before addition of the balanced polysaccharide mixture, 10 ml of glycolic vegetable extract from witch hazel and 50 ml of proteic hydrolisate of elastin are added. After the outgassing process, the
944 PC17IT96/00210
- 9 -
preparation may be optionally submitted to the physical structuring process described in Example 2.
Example 8.
The structured gel prepared according to the process described in Example 2, after washing in water, is dipped into a bath containing up to 10% either of lactic acid or of glycolic, malic or tartaric acid. After the incorporation process the structured gel is maintained in sealed single-dose packages.
Claims
1. Cosmetic formulations containing balanced mixtures of anionic polymers of natural origin, characterized in that they are made up of a gel material consisting of a balanced mixture of anionic polysaccharides of natural origin containing 0.1% to 5% of a soluble alginate, 0.01% to 0,5% of agar, 0.01% to 0.5% of pectin and 0.05% to 1% of xanthan gum, the balance consisting of water.
2. Cosmetic formulations according to claim 1, characterized in that said gel material contains up to 5% by volume of proteic hydrolisates .
3. Cosmetic formulations according to claim 1, characterized in that said gel material contains up to 1% by volume of glycolic vegetable extracts and up to 1% by weight of fluid hydroalcoholic essences.
4. Cosmetic formulations according to claim 1, characterized in that said gel material contains inorganic powders.
5. Cosmetic formulations according to claim 1, characterized in that said gel material contains water- soluble vitamins intended as metabolic skin activators.
6. Cosmetic formulations according to claim 1, characterized in that said gel material contains both proteic hydrolisates and glycolic vegetable extracts.
7. A process for topical application of the gel material as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that it comprises the following operating steps: - spreading a polysaccharide matrix of said gel over a plate; levelling said polysaccharide matrix to a homogeneous layer of predetermined thickness; - dipping said plate into a 1% calcium chloride solution for about 5 minutes; subsequently dipping said plate into a 2% calcium chloride solution for about 2 minutes; thereby obtaining a structured gel provided with a physical pattern of its own;
- separating said structured gel from said plate; subsequently washing said structured gel in distilled water.
8. A process according to claim 7, characterized in that it comprises the further operating step of: keeping said structured gel in a 0.2% salicylic acid solution.
9. Cosmetic formulations according to claims 1 and 7, characterized in that said gel material is a structured gel having a physical pattern of its own.
10. Cosmetic formulations according to claims 1 and 7, characterized in that said structured gel having a physical pattern of its own contains up to 10% of alpahydroxyacids .
11. Cosmetic formulations according to claims 1 and 7, characterized in that said structured gel contains up to
5% by volume of proteic hydrolisates.
12. Cosmetic formulations according to claims 1 and 7, characterized in that said structured gel contains up to 1% by volume of glycolic vegetable extracts and up to 1% by weight of fluid hydroalcoholic essences.
13. Cosmetic formulations according to claims 1 and 7, characterized in that said structured gel contains inorganic powders.
14. Cosmetic formulations according to claims 1 and 7, characterized in that said structured gel contains water- soluble vitamins intended as metabolic skin activators.
15. Cosmetic formulations according to claims 1 and 7, characterized in that said structured gel contains both proteic hydrolisates and glycolic vegetable extracts.
16. Cosmetic formulations containing balanced mixtures of natural-origin anionic polymers and process for topical application of same according to the preceding claims and as hereinbefore described, for the intended purposes.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| ITVR95A000092 | 1995-11-16 | ||
| IT95VR000092A IT1279227B1 (en) | 1995-11-16 | 1995-11-16 | COSMETIC FORMULATIONS CONTAINING CALIBRATED MIXTURES OF ANIONIC POLYMERS OF NATURAL ORIGIN AND PROCEDURE FOR THEIR APPLICATION |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO1997017944A1 true WO1997017944A1 (en) | 1997-05-22 |
Family
ID=11428088
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/IT1996/000210 WO1997017944A1 (en) | 1995-11-16 | 1996-11-13 | Cosmetic formulations containing balanced mixtures of natural-origin anionic polymers and process for topical application of same |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| IT (1) | IT1279227B1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO1997017944A1 (en) |
Cited By (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2001001951A1 (en) | 1999-07-06 | 2001-01-11 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Sheet-like devices |
| WO2000064265A3 (en) * | 1999-04-23 | 2001-01-25 | John Alfred Wilkinson | Insecticidal compositions |
| EP1354914A1 (en) * | 2002-04-12 | 2003-10-22 | Stefan Zikeli | Polymer composition with a biodegradable polymer and material, extract(s) and/or essential compound(s) from herbs of the Asteraceae family |
| WO2005105150A1 (en) * | 2004-04-28 | 2005-11-10 | Hisamitsu Pharmaceutical Co., Inc. | Adhesive material |
| FR2925310A1 (en) * | 2007-12-21 | 2009-06-26 | Oreal | MASCARA KIT COMPRISING AN ALGINATE AND A COMPLEXING AGENT |
| US7658942B2 (en) | 2000-04-12 | 2010-02-09 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Cosmetic devices |
| WO2020109500A1 (en) * | 2018-11-29 | 2020-06-04 | L'oreal | Composition comprising hectorite and pectin |
| CN115491084A (en) * | 2022-09-05 | 2022-12-20 | 深圳波顿香料有限公司 | Preparation method of quick-drying fragrance-carrying film |
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| FR1484809A (en) * | 1966-05-05 | 1967-06-16 | Procedure for removing beauty masks from the face | |
| FR2382891A1 (en) * | 1977-03-11 | 1978-10-06 | Florent Joseph | Cosmetic face pack - contains cellulose, agar-agar or gelose, vegetable or fruit hydrolysates and extracts |
| EP0045493A2 (en) * | 1980-07-31 | 1982-02-10 | Syntex (U.S.A.) Inc. | Composition useful for preparing face masks and process preparing such composition |
| US5139771A (en) * | 1990-04-16 | 1992-08-18 | Revlon, Inc. | Rinse away face masque |
| US5194253A (en) * | 1988-09-09 | 1993-03-16 | Pier Auge (Societe Anonyme) | Aqueous gel, usable in cosmetics, based on hyaluronic acid and deoxyribonucleic acid, and a preparation process |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR1484809A (en) * | 1966-05-05 | 1967-06-16 | Procedure for removing beauty masks from the face | |
| FR2382891A1 (en) * | 1977-03-11 | 1978-10-06 | Florent Joseph | Cosmetic face pack - contains cellulose, agar-agar or gelose, vegetable or fruit hydrolysates and extracts |
| EP0045493A2 (en) * | 1980-07-31 | 1982-02-10 | Syntex (U.S.A.) Inc. | Composition useful for preparing face masks and process preparing such composition |
| US5194253A (en) * | 1988-09-09 | 1993-03-16 | Pier Auge (Societe Anonyme) | Aqueous gel, usable in cosmetics, based on hyaluronic acid and deoxyribonucleic acid, and a preparation process |
| US5139771A (en) * | 1990-04-16 | 1992-08-18 | Revlon, Inc. | Rinse away face masque |
Cited By (12)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2000064265A3 (en) * | 1999-04-23 | 2001-01-25 | John Alfred Wilkinson | Insecticidal compositions |
| WO2001001951A1 (en) | 1999-07-06 | 2001-01-11 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Sheet-like devices |
| US7658942B2 (en) | 2000-04-12 | 2010-02-09 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Cosmetic devices |
| EP1354914A1 (en) * | 2002-04-12 | 2003-10-22 | Stefan Zikeli | Polymer composition with a biodegradable polymer and material, extract(s) and/or essential compound(s) from herbs of the Asteraceae family |
| WO2005105150A1 (en) * | 2004-04-28 | 2005-11-10 | Hisamitsu Pharmaceutical Co., Inc. | Adhesive material |
| FR2925310A1 (en) * | 2007-12-21 | 2009-06-26 | Oreal | MASCARA KIT COMPRISING AN ALGINATE AND A COMPLEXING AGENT |
| WO2020109500A1 (en) * | 2018-11-29 | 2020-06-04 | L'oreal | Composition comprising hectorite and pectin |
| FR3089122A1 (en) * | 2018-11-29 | 2020-06-05 | L'oreal | Composition comprising hectorite and pectin |
| CN113164343A (en) * | 2018-11-29 | 2021-07-23 | 欧莱雅 | Composition comprising hectorite and pectin |
| CN113164343B (en) * | 2018-11-29 | 2023-08-08 | 欧莱雅 | Composition comprising hectorite and pectin |
| CN115491084A (en) * | 2022-09-05 | 2022-12-20 | 深圳波顿香料有限公司 | Preparation method of quick-drying fragrance-carrying film |
| CN115491084B (en) * | 2022-09-05 | 2023-09-29 | 深圳波顿香料有限公司 | Preparation method of quick-drying fragrance-carrying film |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| ITVR950092A1 (en) | 1997-05-16 |
| IT1279227B1 (en) | 1997-12-09 |
| ITVR950092A0 (en) | 1995-11-16 |
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