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WO2010124994A2 - Composition colorée - Google Patents

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Publication number
WO2010124994A2
WO2010124994A2 PCT/EP2010/055387 EP2010055387W WO2010124994A2 WO 2010124994 A2 WO2010124994 A2 WO 2010124994A2 EP 2010055387 W EP2010055387 W EP 2010055387W WO 2010124994 A2 WO2010124994 A2 WO 2010124994A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
coloured
weight
cosmetic
base
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2010/055387
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
WO2010124994A3 (fr
Inventor
Xavier Blin
Ingrid Brenne
Anne-Catherine Legros
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2010124994A2 publication Critical patent/WO2010124994A2/fr
Publication of WO2010124994A3 publication Critical patent/WO2010124994A3/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
    • A61K2800/612—By organic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the field of the invention relates to makeup and/or care compositions for keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, using a coloured cosmetic composition or coloured base, otherwise known as a "colour concentrate” or a “universal colour concentrate”, which can be mixed with standard galenicals used in cosmetics since they comprise an oily phase, in particular with any cosmetic care composition and/or antisun composition and/or foundation composition, for obtaining a makeup and care composition for keratin materials, which is custom- coloured and which has the desired covering power.
  • a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, using a coloured cosmetic composition or coloured base, otherwise known as a “colour concentrate” or a “universal colour concentrate”, which can be mixed with standard galenicals used in cosmetics since they comprise an oily phase, in particular with any cosmetic care composition and/or antisun composition and/or foundation composition, for obtaining a makeup and care composition for keratin materials, which is custom- coloured and which has the desired
  • her cosmetic composition since it comprises at least one oily phase; and in particular it is an emulsion: irrespective of the sense of the emulsion.
  • the oily phase that bears the colour, but care compositions are generally oil-in-water emulsions with, consequently, an aqueous outer phase.
  • keratin materials means the skin and its integuments, in particular the skin.
  • compositions of the invention are especially intended for caring for and making up bodily and facial skin, preferentially facial skin.
  • the aim is thus to develop a coloured base or composition (universal colour concentrate) , which is compatible as a mixture with the standard textures used in cosmetics, such as a care composition and/or antisun composition and/or foundation, and thus making it possible to deliver a chosen coloration and covering power, with the possibility of applying this product especially in the form of a preferred care cream of each woman.
  • a coloured base or composition universal colour concentrate
  • the inventors have shown that it is possible to obtain such a uniform, coloured base or composition that is stable over time, despite having a high content of pigments (for example > 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition) , and which is compatible as a mixture with standard textures of skin care or makeup provided that they comprise an oily phase, this being possible by virtue of the combination of a crosslinked non-emulsifying silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles, a clay and a silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt, preferably representing from 40% to 75% by weight and better still from 60% to 75% by weight of the said composition or coloured base.
  • cSt centistokes
  • Patent application EP 1 736 140 discloses a strongly tinted anhydrous makeup composition comprising more than 20% by weight of pigments, a polymeric oil thickener of the type such as an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and of olefin (e.g.: Kraton®) , a mineral oil thickener of clay type (e.g.: Bentone®) or silica (e.g.: Aerosil®) , an oily solvent comprising a high concentration of fluid silicone oils to stabilize the composition, and fillers.
  • a polymeric oil thickener of the type such as an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and of olefin (e.g.: Kraton®)
  • a mineral oil thickener of clay type e.g.: Bentone®
  • silica e.g.: Aerosil®
  • an oily solvent comprising a high concentration of fluid silicone oils to stabilize the composition, and fillers.
  • this composition as a makeup base to be mixed with any cosmetic composition, and all the less so to add and/or replace the silica or the block copolymer with a non- spherical crosslinked silicone elastomer, to make this formulation homogeneous and stable over time, and compatible as a mixture with any cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily phase.
  • the Applicant has thus developed a coloured cosmetic base or composition ("universal colour concentrate") intended especially to be mixed with any cosmetic composition provided that it comprises an oily phase, the said coloured cosmetic base or composition comprising :
  • a pigmentary phase comprising at least one non- white coloured pigment, preferably in a content of at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, preferably in a content of at least 15% by weight, or even at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition;
  • a vector which is especially oily, and which is very universally compatible and/or mixable with care textures including O/W emulsions, comprising a very fluid silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt, which is preferably volatile, and preferably cyclic; the said silicone oil preferably representing at least 90% by weight of the said oily vehicle;
  • a texturing gelling system which provides texture so as to allow working of the preparation for good incorporation into the cream and also product quality in terms of non-sedimentation and stability, the strong presence of pigments making the thing very delicate.
  • the inventors have thus selected a system comprising at least one clay and at least one non- emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles, satisfying the twofold criterion of manipulable texture and stability towards sedimentation or phase separation.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the said keratin materials of a composition obtained by mixing, preferably prepared extemporaneously, of at least two different compositions :
  • - at least one being a coloured cosmetic base or composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) a pigmentary phase comprising at least one non-white coloured pigment; preferably present in a content of at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, (ii) at least 1% by weight of at least one clay relative to the total weight of the said composition,
  • a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily phase, preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic kit for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least: one coloured cosmetic base or composition as defined above;
  • a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily phase, preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof .
  • the invention also relates to the use of a coloured cosmetic base or composition as defined previously, for the extemporaneous preparation of a skin makeup and/or care composition having a customized coloration and coverage, obtained by at least one step of mixing the said coloured base with a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one oily phase, preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof.
  • the silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) , and preferably less than 10 cSt represents at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily vehicle, preferably at least 95% or even at least 99%, and better still 100% relative to the total weight of the oily vehicle.
  • the oily vehicle does not contain any additional oil.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
  • a pigmentary phase comprising at least one non-white coloured pigment; preferably present in a content of at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition,
  • cSt centistokes
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) comprises less than 5% by weight of compound (s) other than the abovementioned compounds (i) to (iv) , in particular less than 2% by weight or even less than 1% by weight of compound (s) other than the abovementioned compounds (i) to (iv) .
  • the composition may nevertheless also comprise a surfactant.
  • the said coloured cosmetic base or composition has a loss of saturation of less than or equal to 30% and preferably less than or equal to 25%, according to the protocol described below.
  • the total content of pigments (pigmentary phase) in the said coloured cosmetic base or composition is at least 13% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight or even at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition.
  • the non-white coloured pigment is present in the said coloured cosmetic base or composition in a content of at least 1% by weight and in particular from 1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition .
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition is characterized in that the pigmentary phase is present in a total content of at least 13% by weight, preferably at least 15% or even at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, and the non-white coloured pigments in a content of at least 1% and preferably at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention is advantageously characterized by a colouring strength expressed by a loss of saturation, when it is mixed with a white composition, measured according to the following protocol .
  • the colouring strength (CS) is measured by reflection using a Minolta 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (D65/10 0 specular component excluded mode, small aperture (Creiss) ) .
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention is mixed with the white formulation G whose composition is as follows, in which the values are expressed as weight percentages of starting material:
  • the composition known as "colouring strength” is composed of 25% of the coloured cosmetic base or composition and 75% of the white composition G. Once uniform, the mixture is placed in an H247 eyeshadow dish and covered with a glass slide. The sample is then measured using a spectrocolorimeter. The colour of the coloured cosmetic base or composition alone (concentrate) and of the mixture (“preparation CS") are compared in the L*C* system (luminance L* and saturation C*) . From these measurements, the loss of saturation is estimated as being: ,, _ _
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention preferably has a loss of saturation of less than or equal to 30% and preferably less than or equal to 25%, according to the protocol described below.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention preferably has a loss of saturation ranging from 5% to
  • the loss of saturation of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition will especially range from 20% to 25% according to the above-described protocol.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention contains at least one pigmentary phase comprising at least one non-white coloured pigment.
  • Pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the physiological medium, and which are intended to colour the composition .
  • the pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.
  • the said coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention comprises at least one non- white coloured pigment.
  • non-white coloured pigments especially means mineral pigments (e.g.: metal oxides, in particular iron oxides) or organic pigments (e.g.: lakes), which have a colour other than white.
  • Coloured pigments that will preferably be used are metal oxides, in particular iron oxides, preferably a mixture of black, yellow and red iron oxides.
  • Titanium dioxide will preferably be used as white pigment .
  • mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) , chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders such as aluminium powder or copper powder. It may also be a pigment which has a structure that may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts.
  • a pigment having this structure is that sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL- 100 P, this pigment being formed from silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
  • DPP diketopyrrolopyrroles
  • the pigmentary phase is present in the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention in a high total content, in particular a content of at least 13% by weight, especially at least 15% by weight or even at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition, preferably ranging from 15% to 65% by weight and preferentially ranging from 20% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the coloured cosmetic base or composition.
  • the non-white coloured pigments such as the metal oxides and in particular the iron oxides may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight and more preferentially from 5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the said coloured cosmetic base or composition will comprise at least 1%, or even at least 2%, by weight of coloured pigments, in particular of metal oxides and preferably of iron oxides.
  • the said coloured cosmetic base or composition may comprise from 1% to 4% by weight of coloured pigments, in particular of metal oxides, and preferably of iron oxides, relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition .
  • the said coloured cosmetic base or composition may comprise from 2% to 20% by weight of coloured pigments, in particular of metal oxides, and preferably of iron oxides, relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition.
  • the other pigments are formed especially from white pigments, such as titanium dioxide, and optionally additional pulverulent dyestuffs as described hereinbelow.
  • titanium dioxide may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight and more preferentially from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention may contain pigments of the same colour (monochrome) or several pigments of different colour (polychrome) .
  • the pigments may be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of silicone nature, a compound of fluoro nature, a compound of fluorosilicone nature, a fatty acid or amino acid, or a mixture thereof.
  • silicon compound means a compound comprising at least one silicon atom.
  • fluoro compound means a compound comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • fluorosilicone compound means a compound comprising at least one fluorine atom and at least one silicon atom.
  • the surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
  • the surface agent may be absorbed or adsorbed onto the solid particles by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
  • the surface treatment consists of coating of the pigments.
  • the coating may represent from 1% to 300% by weight relative to the weight of the untreated pigments, for example from 5% to 200% and in particular from 10% to 100% by weight relative to the weight of the untreated pigments.
  • the coating may represent from 0.1% to 10% by weight and in particular from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.
  • the coating may be performed, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the pigments by simple mixing with stirring of the pigments and of the said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the pigments into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition .
  • the coating may be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is especially described in patent US 4 578 266.
  • the chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited at the surface of the pigments .
  • the pigments may be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of silicone nature.
  • the silicone surface agents may be chosen from non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, silicone elastomers, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.
  • organopolysiloxane compound means a compound having a structure comprising an alternance of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals linked to silicon atoms.
  • Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethyl- siloxanes .
  • the alkoxy group may be represented by the radical R-O- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl .
  • One method for surface-treating pigments or fillers with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists in dispersing the pigments or fillers in an organic solvent and then in adding the silicone compound. On heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the solid particle .
  • the silicone surface agent may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, especially chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes .
  • the silicone elastomers are especially those that may be present in the first composition according to the invention, described previously.
  • Silanes containing alkoxy functionality are especially described by Witucki in "A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993".
  • Alkoxysilanes such as the alkyltriethoxysilanes and the alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137 (OSI Specialties) and Prosil
  • PCR PCR
  • alkylpolysiloxanes containing a reactive end group such as alkoxy, hydroxyl, halogen, amino or imino are described in patent application JP H07-196 946. They are also suitable for treating pigments or fillers.
  • Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in patents US 5 725 882, US 5 209 924, US 4 972 037, US 4 981 903, US 4 981 902 and US 5 468 477 and in patents US 5 219 560 and EP 0 388 582 may be used.
  • silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers comprising in their structure the unit of formula (I) below:
  • radicals Gi which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a Ci-Cio alkyl radical or alternatively a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G 4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer that may be between 10 and 350, c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that one of the parameters a and c is other than 0.
  • the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferentially all, of the following characteristics:
  • radicals Gi denote an alkyl radical, preferably a methyl radical
  • radicals G2 represent a divalent C1-C3 radical, preferably a propylene radical
  • - G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid
  • - G 4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the (Ci-Cio) alkyl (meth) acrylate type, preferably such as isobutyl or methyl (meth) acrylate .
  • silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain unit of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and of the polymethyl
  • silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are especially polydimethylsiloxanes
  • PDMS polyisobutyl (meth) acrylate type
  • the silicone resins of the silicone surface agent are especially those that may be present in the first composition according to the invention, described previously.
  • the pigments may be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of fluoro nature.
  • the fluoro surface agents may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, poly- tetrafluoropolyethylene (PTFE) and perfluoroalkanes .
  • Perfluoropolyethers are especially described in patent application EP-A-486 135, and sold under the trade name Fomblin by the company Montefluos.
  • Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are described in particular in patent application JP-H05-86984.
  • the perfluoroalkyl phosphate diethanolamines sold by Asahi are described in particular in patent application JP-H05-86984.
  • the perfluoroalkyl phosphate diethanolamines sold by Asahi are described in particular in patent application JP-H05-86984.
  • alkylcycloalkanes alkylcycloalkanes
  • perfluoropolycycloalkanes aromatic perfluoro hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes)
  • hydrocarbon-based perfluoro organic compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.
  • perfluoroalkanes mention may be made of the linear alkane series such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane .
  • perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro- (alkylcycloalkanes) mention may be made of perfluorodecalin sold under the name Flutec PP5 GMP by the company Rhodia, perfluoro (methyldecalin) and perfluoro (C3-C5 alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro-
  • perfluoropolycycloalkane examples include bicyclo [3.3.1 ] nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo [3.3.1] nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane, and hydrogenated perfluorophenanthrene derivatives such as tetracosafluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene .
  • perfluoroarenes mention may be made of perfluoronaphthalene derivatives, for instance perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene .
  • the pigments may be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of fluorosilicone nature.
  • the fluorosilicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes .
  • perfluoroalkyl radical means an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.
  • Perfluoroalkyl silanes that may be mentioned include the products LP-IT and LP-4T sold by Shin-Etsu Silicone .
  • the perfluoroalkyl dimethicones may be represented by the following formula: CH. CH. H. CH 3
  • - R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group,
  • Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical containing 1 to 9 carbon atoms and preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - m is chosen between 0 and 150 and preferably from 20 to 100, and
  • - n is chosen between 1 and 300 and preferably from 1 to 100.
  • pigments treated with a fluorosilicone compound mention may be made of titanium dioxide/fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium dioxide IOOTA by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.
  • the hydrophobic treating agent may be chosen from fatty acids, for instance stearic acid; metal soaps, for instance aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N- acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate (ITT), and mixtures thereof.
  • the N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2- ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited previously especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • fatty acid-coated pigments mention may be made of those sold under the commercial references NAI - C33-8073 - 10, NAI - C33-8075, NAI - C47-051 - 10, NAI - C33-115, NAI - C33-134, NAI - C33- 8001-10, NAI - C33-7001-10, NAI - C33-9001-10 from the company Miyoshi Kasei.
  • ITT isopropyl titanium triisostearate
  • BWBO-12 Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate
  • BWYO-12 Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate
  • BWRO-12 Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate
  • ammonium stearoyl glutamate-treated pigments will be used, such as those sold under the names NAI - C33-8001-10, NAI - C33-7001-10, NAI - C33-9001-10 from the company Miyoshi Kasei.
  • the coloured base or composition according to the invention may also comprise additional dyestuffs such as nacres, pigments with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent or non-iridescent coloured particles of any shape, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or alternatively synthesized, which have a colour effect via optical interference.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
  • nacres examples include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • nacres that are available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (on a mica base) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige nacres on a mica base sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine nacres on a synthetic mica base, sold by the company Sun Chemical.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
  • the term "material with a specific optical effect” means a material whose effect is different from a simple conventional shade effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by standard dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic pigments.
  • the term “stabilized” means devoid of any colour variability effect with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change.
  • this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners and fibres, especially interference fibres.
  • These additional pulverulent dyestuffs may represent from 0.1% to 40% by weight, especially from
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention comprises at least one gelling system comprising at least one clay and at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer .
  • the content of clay(s) is at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the said colour concentrate composition.
  • Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.
  • clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the vermiculite, stevensite or chlorite family. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin materials such as the skin are used.
  • the clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite. These clays may be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof. According to one preferred mode, the clay is chosen from organomodified clays, especially treated with quaternary amines or tertiary amines, such as organomodified bentonites.
  • Organophilic clays that may be mentioned include quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by the company Rheox, Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by the company Rheox, Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonite, such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay.
  • quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by the company Rheox, Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by the company Southern Clay
  • stearalkonium bentonites such
  • organomodified clays are used, which are clays treated with compounds chosen especially from quaternary amines and tertiary amines.
  • Organomodified clays that may be mentioned include organomodified bentonites such as those sold under the name Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, organomodified hectorites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 and Bentone 38 by the company Rheox, and the various grades of these ranges.
  • the content of clay(s) in the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention may range from 1% to 4% by weight, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight and better still from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • the mass ratio of non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer active material in the form of non-spherical particles/clay is greater than 1, preferably between 1 and 8, better still between 2 and 6 and even better still between 2.5 and 4.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition of the invention comprises at least one non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane (also known as a silicone elastomer) .
  • non-emulsifying elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane used according to the invention is in the form of non-spherical particles.
  • the non- emulsifying silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from dimethicone crosspolymers (INCI name) as opposed to dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers (INCI name) .
  • non-emulsifying silicone elastomer means organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerol units.
  • the non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer is a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane that may be obtained:
  • the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst, for instance as described in patent application EP-A-295 886.
  • A2 crosslinking addition reaction
  • B2 of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon
  • C2 platinum catalyst
  • the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogeno- polysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane and the crosslinking is performed via an addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2) .
  • Compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopoly- siloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example of C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
  • the organopolysiloxane (A2) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear chain structure is preferred.
  • Compound (A2) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to a gum state. Preferably, compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
  • the organopolysiloxanes (A2) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethyl- siloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane- methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenyl- siloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane- methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethyl- siloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenyl- siloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl (3, 3, 3-trifluoro- propyl) polysiloxanes containing dimethylviny
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule in compound (A2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule in compound (B2) is at least 4.
  • Compound (B2) may be in any molecular structure, especially in a linear chain, branched chain or cyclic structure .
  • Compound (B2) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (A) . It is advantageous for compound (B2) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon in compound (B2) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (A2) is in the range from 1/1 to 20/1.
  • Compound (B2) may be chosen from methylhydrogeno- polysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups and dimethyl- siloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
  • Compound (C2) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid- diketone complexes, platinum black or platinum on a support .
  • the catalyst (C2) is preferably added in from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2) .
  • organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described previously, for instance alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group .
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl
  • substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl
  • aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or
  • the non- emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or silicone oil to form a gel.
  • the non- emulsifying elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles .
  • the non- emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer according to the invention is mixed with at least one volatile silicone oil, such as that defined hereinbelow as vehicle .
  • a non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer mixed with the same silicone oil as that of the oily vehicle of the said coloured base or composition will be used.
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in patents US 4 970 252, US 4 987 169, US 5 412 004, US 5 654 362 and US 5 760 116 and in patent application JP-A-61-194 009.
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG- 16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, USG-105 and USG-106 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 9040, DC9041, DC9045, DC 9509, DC9505 and DC 9506 by the company Dow Corning, Gransil by the company Grant Industries, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.
  • a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane at 12% in cyclopenta- siloxane is used, such as DC9045 sold by the company Dow Corning.
  • the non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles is present in the composition in an active material content ranging from 3% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 4% to 6% by weight and better still from 4% to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a starting material content ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 35% to 50% by weight and better still from 35% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, will be used in the composition.
  • the composition comprises a content of non-emulsifying silicone elastomer ranging from 4% to 5.5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, and a clay content ranging from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • the coloured base or composition of the invention comprises a vehicle, which is especially oily, preferably a single vehicle to be as universally compatible as possible and/or mixable with care textures including O/W emulsions.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition (universal colour concentrate) according to the invention contains at least one very fluid silicone oil, which is preferably a volatile silicone oil.
  • the coloured base or composition comprises a silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt, preferably representing at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the said oily vehicle, preferably at least 95% or even at least 99%, and better still 100% relative to the total weight of the said oily vehicle.
  • cSt centistokes
  • the percentage of fluid silicone oil combined with the crosslinked silicone elastomer associated with the crosslinked silicone elastomer is compatibilized in this calculation.
  • the oily vehicle does not contain any additional oil.
  • the said fluid silicone oil is a cyclic volatile silicone oil and preferably cyclopentadimethylsiloxane .
  • the said coloured cosmetic base or composition (universal colour concentrate) comprises a very fluid silicone oil and does not comprise any additional non-silicone oil.
  • the said coloured cosmetic base or composition (universal colour concentrate) comprises a very fluid silicone oil and does not comprise any additional oil, irrespective of its nature.
  • very fluid silicone oil means a silicone oil which has a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) (20 x 10 "6 m 2 /s) and preferably less than or equal to 10 cSt.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than
  • volatile oil means an oil that can evaporate from the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. This oil especially has a vapour pressure, at room temperature
  • the volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150 0 C to 260 0 C and especially ranging from 170°C to 250 0 C.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (20 x 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s) and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which are pendant or at the end of each silicone chain.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta- siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl- hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexa- methyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • a cyclic volatile silicone oil will advantageously be used, such as decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or dodecamethylcyclo- hexasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane will more preferably be used.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises decamethylcyclopentasiloxane as sole oil of the said composition .
  • the silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt is present in the coloured composition, otherwise known as the universal colour concentrate, in a content ranging from 40% to 75% by weight and especially from 60% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, in particular from 50% to 70% by weight and better still from 60% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition .
  • This percentage takes into account the percentage of silicone oil associated with the crosslinked silicone elastomer when it is in the form of a mixture with a silicone oil.
  • the silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt is present in a content ranging from 60% to 75% by weight and better still from 65% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the said coloured cosmetic base or composition .
  • the active material mass ratio R of "non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles/silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt" is greater than 0.05 and preferably greater than 0.06.
  • the mass ratio R may be between 0.05 and 0.5 and preferably between 0.05 and 0.1.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention may comprise, besides pigments, the silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt and the gelling system described previously, other cosmetic ingredients chosen from fillers, surfactants, solvents, lipophilic thickeners and/or gelling agents, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents and neutralizers conventionally used in cosmetic compositions .
  • cSt centistokes
  • other cosmetic ingredients chosen from fillers, surfactants, solvents, lipophilic thickeners and/or gelling agents, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents and neutralizers conventionally used in cosmetic compositions .
  • the composition also comprises a surfactant.
  • the composition will not comprise any compound (s) other than the abovementioned compounds (i) to (iv) .
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil with a vapour pressure of less than
  • the non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
  • it will be a non-volatile silicone oil .
  • Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,
  • oils of plant origin such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203) , triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C 4 to C36 and especially from Cis to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil,
  • the esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance: cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethyl
  • - copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters thereof such as dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer copolymers and esters thereof, for instance Plandool-G, - copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA or the dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer,
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon- based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecanol,
  • - C12-C22 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and
  • dialkyl carbonates the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis,
  • oils of high molar mass in particular having a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more particularly ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 g/mol.
  • oils of high molar mass that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of oils chosen from: • lipophilic polymers, • linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70,
  • silicone oils for instance linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) ; poly- dimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl tri- methicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention may also comprise an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase comprises water.
  • a water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25°C), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (Cl-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (Cl-C4)alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise any water- soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • a coloured cosmetic base or composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 0% to 20% by weight and especially from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition of the invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion or in an anhydrous form, preferably anhydrous.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition of the invention is in an anhydrous form.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one surfactant.
  • the surfactant may be lipophilic and/or hydrophilic, used alone or as a couple.
  • the surfactant may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants.
  • the nonionic surfactant may be chosen from:
  • C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol i.e. an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C8- C22 ) alkyldimethylmethylsiloxane .
  • the C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of formula (I) below: in which:
  • - PE represents (-C2H4O) x- (C3H6O) y-R, R being chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x ranging from 0 to 100 and y ranging from 0 to 80, x and y not simultaneously being 0
  • a C8-C22 alkyldimethiconecopolyol that may be mentioned is cetyldimethiconecopolyol, for instance the product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt .
  • dimethiconecopolyol i.e. an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane . It does not contain any long-chain alkyl groups of more than 8 carbon atoms, especially C8-C22.
  • Dimethiconecopolyols that may be used are those corresponding to formula (II) below:
  • Rl, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent a
  • A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
  • B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; on condition that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero; x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
  • x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6
  • y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
  • R4 is in particular a hydrogen.
  • A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105
  • B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10
  • y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
  • silicone compounds of formula (II) mention may also be made of the compounds of formula (IV) :
  • Dimethiconecopolyols that may be used include those sold under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2- 5695 and Q4-3667 by the company Dow Corning; KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016 and KF-6017 by the company Shin-Etsu.
  • the compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (III) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
  • Nonionic surfactants that may also be mentioned include fatty acid esters of polyols, for instance sorbitol or glyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesquioleates or stearates, glyceryl or polyethylene glycol laurates; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol (polyethylene glycol monostearate or monolaurate) ; polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters (stearate, oleate) of sorbitol; and polyoxyethylenated alkyl (lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, octyl) ethers.
  • fatty acid esters of polyols for instance sorbitol or glyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesquioleates or stearates, glyceryl or polyethylene glycol laurates
  • fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol polyethylene glycol monostearate or monolaurate
  • Anionic surfactants that may be mentioned include carboxylates (sodium 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy) acetate) , amino acid derivatives (N-acylglutamates, N- acylglycinates or acylsarcosinates) , alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and oxyethylenated derivatives thereof, sulfonates, isethionates and N- acylisethionates, taurates and N-acyl N-methyltaurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglycoside (acyl-D-galactoside uronate) , and fatty acid soaps, and mixtures thereof.
  • carboxylates sodium 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy) acetate
  • amino acid derivatives N-acyl
  • Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants that may be used include betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, glycine derivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates and alkyl amphoacetates, and mixtures thereof.
  • Such surfactants are especially described in patent application WO-A-02/056 854, the content of which is incorporated by reference.
  • the surfactant may be present in the coloured cosmetic base or composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention may be anhydrous or in the form of a W/O emulsion or alternatively in the form of gels, especially oily gels.
  • Anhydrous compositions and W/O emulsions are preferential.
  • anhydrous composition means a composition comprising less than 3% by weight of water and preferably less than 2% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more preferentially, the composition is free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition, but corresponding to the residual water introduced by the mixed ingredients.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention is in anhydrous form.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention advantageously has a viscosity of greater than or equal to 22 DU
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention advantageously has a viscosity of 22 to 38 DU, measured after 24 hours at rest on a Rheomat 180 machine, with an M4 spindle at 25°C, after 10 minutes of shear at 200 rpm, i.e. from 52 to 90 poises.
  • the viscosity of the composition is measured at 25°C using a Rheomat 180 machine (from the company Lamy) equipped with an MS-Rl, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 spindle, chosen as a function of the consistency of the composition, rotating at a spin speed of 200 rpm.
  • the MS-R4 spindle is used.
  • the measurement is taken after 10 minutes of rotation.
  • the viscosity measurements are taken not more than 1 week after manufacture.
  • the coloured base or composition comprises: (i) a pigmentary phase comprising at least one non-white coloured pigment, present in a total content of at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, (ii) from 1% to 4% by weight of at least one clay relative to the total weight of the said composition,
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention may be prepared according to the standard methods used in cosmetics. According to one particular mode:
  • the clay is predispersed in a small amount of silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt;
  • the pigments are added and the mixture is ground, for example in a three-roll mill or using a ball mill of Sussmeyer or Dynomill type;
  • the crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non-spherical particles is dispersed in the rest of the silicone oil with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 20 centistokes (cSt) and preferably less than 10 cSt; - the crosslinked silicone elastomer is added to the ground pigmentary mixture using a Rayneri blender.
  • cSt centistokes
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition may be packaged in any type of device that allows the distribution and application of the product to keratin materials.
  • coloured cosmetic base or composition As examples of devices for distributing the said coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) , mention may be made of a single-dose sachet, a tube, a distributing pen, a pump-action bottle preferably equipped with an airless system, a jar with a spatula, without these examples being limiting.
  • the invention thus relates also to a cosmetic assembly especially in the form of a tube, a dispensing pen or a pump-action bottle preferably equipped with an airless system, or a jar with a spatula, comprising a coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) as defined previously.
  • the invention also relates to a makeup and/or care cosmetic kit for keratin materials, comprising:
  • a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily phase, preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof .
  • composition of care composition may be mixed with the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition will be readily mixed at the time of use with a composition in the form of a
  • the said cosmetic composition to be mixed with the coloured base is a care composition in the form of an O/W emulsion.
  • the said cosmetic composition to be mixed with the coloured base is an oily gel.
  • This cosmetic composition especially contains at least one oily phase containing at least one nonvolatile oil. Examples of such oils are described previously in the description.
  • the said cosmetic composition may be a care product for the face and/or the body.
  • it contains at least one active agent that is beneficial to the skin, chosen especially from antioxidants, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active agents, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-pollution agents or free-radical scavengers, sequestrants, dermo-relaxing active agents, calmatives, agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation, antiglycation agents, antiirritants, desquamating agents, depigmenting, antipigmenting or pro-pigmenting agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents for stimulating fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation, agents acting on the capillary circulation, agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells, and slimming agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • active agent that is beneficial to the skin, chosen especially from antioxidants, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning
  • active agent known for its activity on ageing of the skin
  • pro-desquamating agents for example ⁇ -hydroxy acids, ⁇ -hydroxy acids, ⁇ -keto acids, ⁇ -keto acids, retinoids and esters thereof, in particular retinyl palmitate.
  • vitamins for instance vitamin B3, C or PP, B5, E and Kl, and derivatives of these vitamins and especially esters thereof, in particular ascorbyl glucoside; free-radical scavengers, sunscreens; moisturizers, for instance polyols; ceramides; DHEA and derivatives thereof; coenzyme QlO; bleaching and depigmenting agents, for instance kojic acid, para- aminophenol derivatives, arbutin and derivatives thereof; artificial skin tanning and/or browning agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • vitamins for instance vitamin B3, C or PP, B5, E and Kl
  • free-radical scavengers for instance polyols
  • ceramides for instance polyols
  • DHEA and derivatives thereof coenzyme QlO
  • bleaching and depigmenting agents for instance kojic acid, para- aminophenol derivatives, arbutin and derivatives thereof
  • UV-screening agents examples include cinnamic derivatives, salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, dibenzomethane derivatives, ⁇ -diphenylacrylate derivatives, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, screening polymers and screening silicones, as described, for example, in patent application WO 93/04665.
  • DHA dihydroxyacetone
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention may be used per se for masking colour imperfections of the face and body or for unifying the complexion.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition may be used especially as a mixture:
  • the invention thus also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the said keratin materials of a composition obtained by mixing, preferably prepared extemporaneously, of at least two different compositions :
  • the other being a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oily phase preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof.
  • the coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) according to the invention may be mixed with a care cream, according to the following recommendations:
  • the colour concentrate according to the invention elevates and unifies the complexion naturally, without giving any sensation of material on the skin, for an immediately perceptible healthy complexion effect.
  • the colour intensity is natural and entirely suited to the flesh tone of the user.
  • the user may adjust the "amount of coloured cosmetic base/amount of cosmetic composition" dosage as a function of her skin colour and optionally of her colour change (tan) after exposure to sunlight.
  • the inventors have demonstrated that 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 ratios between the coloured cosmetic base and a care cream can follow the tanning path of a skin type, i.e. the colour change of the complexion after exposure to sunlight ( Figure 1) .
  • the consumer mixes 1 dose of coloured cosmetic base (colour concentrate) with 3 doses of cosmetic composition, for a slight tan on the skin, making it possible to naturally prolong the effect of a first exposure to sunlight .
  • the consumer mixes 2 doses of the coloured cosmetic base (colour concentrate) with 2 doses of cosmetic composition, for a more pronounced tan, and thus naturally prolongs the effect of a longer and/or more frequent exposure to sunlight .
  • the consumer mixes 3 doses of the coloured cosmetic base (colour concentrate) with 1 dose of cosmetic composition, for a stronger coloration, making it possible to naturally prolong and/or reinforce the effect of a deeper tan.
  • the invention thus relates also to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the said keratin materials of a composition obtained by mixing, preferably prepared extemporaneously, of at least two different compositions : - at least one being a coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) as defined previously,
  • a cosmetic composition comprising at least an oily phase preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof, the coloured cosmetic base and the cosmetic composition being present in the mixture in coloured base/cosmetic composition ratios ranging from 1/4 to 3/4 and in particular ratios of 1/4, 1/2 or 3/4.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a coloured cosmetic base or composition (colour concentrate) as defined previously for the extemporaneous preparation of a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin, having a custom coloration and covering power, obtained by at least one step of mixing the said coloured cosmetic base or composition with a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one oily phase preferably in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, chosen especially from a care composition, an antisun composition and a foundation, or a mixture thereof.
  • a coloured cosmetic base or composition colour concentrate
  • Figure 1 representation of the colour volume of skin before and after application of a mixture formed from a coloured base (colour concentrate) /care cream (colour volume of skin) .
  • Example 1 Choice of the gelling system in the coloured base according to the invention
  • compositions A to E are prepared according to the standard methods. Procedure :
  • 1 - phase Al is prepared by mixing the gelling agent, optionally predispersed in a surfactant, in the volatile silicone oil with magnetic stirring 2 - phase A2 formed by the pigments is added
  • phase A4 is added very slowly and then, in the case of composition A, phase A3 is added.
  • the texture ⁇ fluid, ⁇ thick
  • the homogeneity ⁇ sedimentation of the pigments
  • stability of the said compositions are evaluated.
  • the texture is evaluated by visual observation of the appearance of the composition and measurement of the viscosity.
  • the viscosity of the composition is measured after 24 hours of rest, on a Rheomat 180 viscometer (Lamy) , with an M4 spindle at 25°C.
  • the stability and homogeneity of the said composition are evaluated by visual assessment, by observing the amount of sedimentation that takes place for a sample of the composition, after two months of storage at 45°C.
  • composition D (according to the invention) has the desired characteristics in terms of texture (quite thick), homogeneity and stability over time.
  • a clay and of a non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of non- spherical particles thus makes it possible to satisfy the technical problem posed, which is that of obtaining a composition of pigments in particular in a high content (in this case 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) , the texture of which is acceptable for it to be worked with any care composition, and which is homogeneous and stable over time .
  • Example 2 Choice of the clay content (> 1%) in the coloured base according to the invention
  • Composition F (comparative) which contains less than 1% by weight of clay relative to the total weight of the said composition is not stable over time.
  • 1% will be defined as the preferred minimum amount of clay according to the invention, in combination with the silicone elastomer, to obtain a composition comprising pigments in particular in a high content (at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, illustrated here with 20% by weight) that is stable over time and whose texture is suitable for mixing with any care composition .
  • Example 3 Coloured base or composition (universal colour concentrate)
  • This composition has a smooth, uniform, quite thick appearance, with a viscosity from 22DU to 38DU on a module M4 viscometer.
  • the colouring strength (CS) in reflection is measured using a Minolta 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (D65/10 0 specular component excluded mode, small aperture (Creiss) ) .
  • This coloured composition is mixed with the following white composition G:
  • Anatase titanium oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate (97/3) 20 The composition known as the "colouring strength" is composed of 25% of the coloured composition and 75% of the white composition G. Once homogenized, the mixture is placed in an H247 eyeshadow dish and covered with a glass slide. The sample is then measured using a spectrocolorimeter.
  • the coloured composition (universal colour concentrate) is packaged in a tube. It may be used as a mixture with a cosmetic composition chosen by the user from her care composition, antisun composition and foundation .
  • the coloured composition described above is mixed with a care cream having the following composition: Octyldodecanol 2.00
  • the coloured base or composition according to the invention elevates and unifies the complexion naturally, without giving a sensation of material on the skin, for an immediately perceptible healthy complexion effect.
  • mixtures Ml, M2 and M3 were prepared in the following proportions : 1/4 colour concentrate + 3/4 care cream (mixture Ml) 1/2 colour concentrate + 1/2 care cream (mixture M2) 3/4 colour concentrate + 1/4 care cream (mixture M3) using the following compositions:
  • a care cream having the following composition: cyclopentasiloxane 6.5% gelling agent 0.6% sodium 2-methylpropanesulfonate as a reverse emulsion at 40% in isoparaffin/water (Sepigel 305 from SEPPIC) 1.8% glycerol 7.0% urea 1.0% apricot kernel oil 1.5% tocopherol 0.25% preserving agents 0.25%
  • the consumer can adjust the "coloured composition (colour concentrate) /care cream" dosage to be applied as a function of her skin type and of the desired colour effect:

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Abstract

Cette invention concerne une base ou composition cosmétique colorée comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable: i) une phase pigmentaire comprenant au moins un pigment coloré non blanc présent selon une teneur totale d'au moins 13 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition; ii) au moins 1 % en poids d'au moins une argile par rapport au poids total de la composition; iii) au moins un élastomère de silicone réticulé non émulsifiant sous la forme de particules non sphériques; iv) au moins une huile de silicone de viscosité à température ambiante inférieure à 20 centistokes (cSt), de préférence inférieure à 10 cSt, de préférence présente selon une teneur allant de 40 à 75 % en poids par rapport à la composition.
PCT/EP2010/055387 2009-04-28 2010-04-22 Composition colorée WO2010124994A2 (fr)

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FR0952788A FR2944701B1 (fr) 2009-04-28 2009-04-28 Composition coloree.
FR0952788 2009-04-28
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US61/176,495 2009-05-08

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WO2013190709A1 (fr) * 2012-06-21 2013-12-27 L'oreal Composition cosmétique masquant les pores comprenant une charge de type lamellaire, un élastomère au silicium et une charge absorbant l'huile
FR3026003B1 (fr) * 2014-09-24 2017-11-24 Traits De Beaute Sarl Composition coloree notamment pour maquillage permanent ou tatouage.
FR3045330B1 (fr) * 2015-12-16 2019-05-03 L'oreal Composition cosmetique a base de pigments blancs et d'agregats spheriques de dioxyde de titane

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EP2793831B1 (fr) 2011-12-20 2018-10-03 L'Oréal Composition cosmétique comprenant un tensioactif anionique, un alcool gras solide et un ester gras solide, et procédé de traitement cosmétique

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