WO2013069165A1 - Composition cosmétique pour des fibres kératiniques - Google Patents
Composition cosmétique pour des fibres kératiniques Download PDFInfo
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- WO2013069165A1 WO2013069165A1 PCT/JP2011/076341 JP2011076341W WO2013069165A1 WO 2013069165 A1 WO2013069165 A1 WO 2013069165A1 JP 2011076341 W JP2011076341 W JP 2011076341W WO 2013069165 A1 WO2013069165 A1 WO 2013069165A1
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- cosmetic composition
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- FFNJDUZBKSGSIV-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,5-diamine Chemical compound C1=CC(N)=NC2=C(N)C=NN21 FFNJDUZBKSGSIV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PNFZIEOWPDFJBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine Chemical compound NC1=CC=NC2=C(N)C=NN21 PNFZIEOWPDFJBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- MCSKRVKAXABJLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrazolo[3,4-d]triazole Chemical class N1=NN=C2N=NC=C21 MCSKRVKAXABJLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- YRJYANBGTAMXRQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrazolo[3,4-h]quinazolin-2-one Chemical compound C1=C2N=NC=C2C2=NC(=O)N=CC2=C1 YRJYANBGTAMXRQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- MIROPXUFDXCYLG-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyridine-2,5-diamine Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(N)N=C1 MIROPXUFDXCYLG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GJAWHXHKYYXBSV-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyridinedicarboxylic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1C(O)=O GJAWHXHKYYXBSV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LTXJLQINBYSQFU-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrimidin-5-ol Chemical compound OC1=CN=CN=C1 LTXJLQINBYSQFU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PZRKPUQWIFJRKZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrimidine-2,4,5,6-tetramine Chemical compound NC1=NC(N)=C(N)C(N)=N1 PZRKPUQWIFJRKZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CSNFMBGHUOSBFU-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrimidine-2,4,5-triamine Chemical compound NC1=NC=C(N)C(N)=N1 CSNFMBGHUOSBFU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- INCIMLINXXICKS-UHFFFAOYSA-M pyronin Y Chemical compound [Cl-].C1=CC(=[N+](C)C)C=C2OC3=CC(N(C)C)=CC=C3C=C21 INCIMLINXXICKS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- VIXWGKYSYIBATJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrrol-2-one Chemical compound O=C1C=CC=N1 VIXWGKYSYIBATJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FYNROBRQIVCIQF-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrrolo[3,2-b]pyrrole-5,6-dione Chemical compound C1=CN=C2C(=O)C(=O)N=C21 FYNROBRQIVCIQF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940097319 quaternium-22 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940079053 quaternium-27 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- MCJGNVYPOGVAJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N quinolin-8-ol Chemical compound C1=CN=C2C(O)=CC=CC2=C1 MCJGNVYPOGVAJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- IZMJMCDDWKSTTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N quinoline yellow Chemical compound C1=CC=CC2=NC(C3C(C4=CC=CC=C4C3=O)=O)=CC=C21 IZMJMCDDWKSTTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003248 quinolines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000011160 research Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000009566 rice Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-XLNAKTSKSA-N ricinelaidic acid Chemical compound CCCCCC[C@@H](O)C\C=C\CCCCCCCC(O)=O WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-XLNAKTSKSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000005713 safflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003813 safflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960004889 salicylic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000012216 screening Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003335 secondary amines Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000003352 sequestering agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008159 sesame oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011803 sesame oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000012176 shellac wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000005373 siloxane group Chemical group [SiH2](O*)* 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- GCLGEJMYGQKIIW-UHFFFAOYSA-H sodium hexametaphosphate Chemical compound [Na]OP1(=O)OP(=O)(O[Na])OP(=O)(O[Na])OP(=O)(O[Na])OP(=O)(O[Na])OP(=O)(O[Na])O1 GCLGEJMYGQKIIW-UHFFFAOYSA-H 0.000 description 1
- 235000019795 sodium metasilicate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- NTHWMYGWWRZVTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N sodium silicate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-][Si]([O-])=O NTHWMYGWWRZVTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052911 sodium silicate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007480 spreading Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003892 spreading Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940031439 squalene Drugs 0.000 description 1
- TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalene Natural products CC(=CCCC(=CCCC(=CCCC=C(/C)CCC=C(/C)CC=C(C)C)C)C)C TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940071182 stannate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000005402 stannate group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- SFVFIFLLYFPGHH-UHFFFAOYSA-M stearalkonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CC1=CC=CC=C1 SFVFIFLLYFPGHH-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940080728 steareth-30 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940094908 stearyl myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940032085 sucrose monolaurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000001174 sulfone group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- RWSOTUBLDIXVET-UHFFFAOYSA-O sulfonium Chemical compound [SH3+] RWSOTUBLDIXVET-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 1
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011593 sulfur Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229910021653 sulphate ion Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000004381 surface treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000011975 tartaric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000002906 tartaric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000003892 tartrate salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000003512 tertiary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012815 thermoplastic material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003568 thioethers Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- JOUDBUYBGJYFFP-FOCLMDBBSA-N thioindigo Chemical compound S\1C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C/1=C1/C(=O)C2=CC=CC=C2S1 JOUDBUYBGJYFFP-FOCLMDBBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-M toluene-4-sulfonate Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 238000005809 transesterification reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- BGNWQYFHLCCUTB-MSUUIHNZSA-N tridecyl (z)-docos-13-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC BGNWQYFHLCCUTB-MSUUIHNZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940118576 triisostearyl citrate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trioctanoin Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCC VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940026256 trioctyldodecyl citrate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- FQAZRHVERGEKOS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tripropan-2-yl 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CC(C)OC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OC(C)C)CC(=O)OC(C)C FQAZRHVERGEKOS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ICWQKCGSIHTZNI-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris(16-methylheptadecyl) 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)CC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C ICWQKCGSIHTZNI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BIEMOBPNIWQLMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris(2-octyldodecyl) 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC(CCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCC(CCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCC)CC(=O)OCC(CCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCC BIEMOBPNIWQLMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NELZVYZKKXHHAB-IUPFWZBJSA-N tris[(z)-octadec-9-enyl] 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC)CC(=O)OCCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC NELZVYZKKXHHAB-IUPFWZBJSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N tyrosine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N urea hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO.NC(N)=O AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004474 valine Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940099259 vaseline Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000000391 vinyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])=C([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- YKSGNOMLAIJTLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N violanthrone Chemical compound C12=C3C4=CC=C2C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C1=CC=C3C1=CC=C2C(=O)C3=CC=CC=C3C3=CC=C4C1=C32 YKSGNOMLAIJTLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- VHBFFQKBGNRLFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N vitamin p Natural products O1C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C=C1C1=CC=CC=C1 VHBFFQKBGNRLFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003039 volatile agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010792 warming Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052725 zinc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011701 zinc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002888 zwitterionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a mousse, particularly a dyeing or a bleaching
- composition for keratin fibers such as hair.
- compositions based on ammonia as alkaline agent has been proposed, with compositions comprising high amounts of fatty materials.
- compositions usually comprise more than 20 % of fatty acids
- compositions provide high
- ammonia is in general used as the alkaline agent in such products. Consequently, the problem of the odor due to the presence of ammonia is not solved.
- compositions in the form of a mousse from the
- compositions comprising high amounts of fatty compounds was not proposed because it was thought that high amounts of fatty
- materials may suppress or collapse foam.
- An objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair which is in the form of a mousse, which comprises high amounts of fatty compounds but still can have a good foamability and exhibit a good stability of the resulting foam, as well as a good bleaching or dyeing ability.
- the above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, in a mousse form,
- the amount of the (a) fatty material (s) is 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 4.0% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the (a) fatty material be in the form of a liquid at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure.
- the (a) fatty material may preferably be selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, synthetic
- glycerides fatty esters other than animal or plant oils and synthetic glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, silicone oils, and aliphatic hydrocarbons. More preferably, the fatty material is aliphatic hydrocarbon such as mineral oil.
- amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated
- the (b) amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of (C 8 -C 2 4) alkylbetaines, (C 8 -C 24 ) alkylamido (Ci- C 8 ) alkylbetaines , sulfobetaines , ( C 8 -C 24 ) alkylamido (Ci- C s ) alkylsulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 24 ) -alkyl amphomonoacetates , (C 8 - C 24 )alkyl amphodiacetates , (C 8 -C 24 ) alkyl amphomonopropionates , (C 8 - C 24 ) alkyl amphodipropionates and phosphobetaines .
- surfactant ( s) be 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the (c) amphoteric polymer may preferably be selected from:
- At least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulphate, and
- polymers containing a salt of dialkyldiallyl ammonium as a cationic monomer are more preferably selected. from polymers containing a salt of dialkyldiallyl ammonium as a cationic monomer.
- the amount of the (c) amphoteric polymer (s) be 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the (d) non-volatile alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent selected from the group consisting of alkaline metal
- the (d) non-volatile alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent selected from the group, consisting of monoamines and derivatives thereof; diamines and derivatives thereof; polyamines and derivatives thereof; amino acids and derivatives thereof; oligomers of amino acids and derivatives thereof; polymers of amino acids and derivatives thereof; urea and derivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof.
- the (d) non-volatile alkaline agent be selected from alkanolamines . More preferably, the non volatile alkaline agent is monoethanolamine .
- the amount of the (d) non-volatile alkaline agent(s) be 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the (e) oxidizing agent may be hydrogen peroxide or persalts such as persulfates. More preferably, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
- the amount of the (e) oxidizing agent (s) be 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, relative to. the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one coloring substance selected from the group consisting of direct dyes and oxidation dyes.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprise (f) at least one foam stabilizer.
- the foam stabilizer may be a rheology modifier selected from hydrophilic or lipophilic, organic or inorganic polymers and non- polymers, preferably chosen from organophilic clays; fumed silicas; fatty acid amides; thickening polymers such as cellulose polymers, galactomannans and derivatives thereof, gums of microbial origin, acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers ; associative polymers, and mixture thereof .
- a rheology modifier selected from hydrophilic or lipophilic, organic or inorganic polymers and non- polymers, preferably chosen from organophilic clays; fumed silicas; fatty acid amides; thickening polymers such as cellulose polymers, galactomannans and derivatives thereof, gums of microbial origin, acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers ; associative polymers, and mixture thereof .
- the (e) foam stabilizer may preferably be selected from cellulose polymers .
- the amount of the (f) foam stabilizer ( s ) be 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at least one coloring substance selected from the group consisting of direct dyes and oxidation dyes.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for keratin fibers comprising a step of forming a foam by mixing or shaking the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
- the foam to the keratin fibers. It is possible to use a non-aerosol device or an aerosol device to form the foam.
- the invention also relates to a multi-compartments system or kit comprising at least a first compartment and a second compartment, in which the first compartment comprises the components (d) and optionally at least one coloring substance, and the second compartment comprises at least one oxidizing agent (component (e)), the other essential components (a), (b) , (c) and (f) being present, separately or not, in at least one of the first and second compartments or in others; the amount of fatty material (s) (component (a)) in the composition obtained by mixing the compartments being of 20 % by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the first compartment comprises the components (d) and optionally at least one coloring substance
- the second compartment comprises at least one oxidizing agent (component (e)), the other essential components (a), (b) , (c) and (f) being present, separately or not, in at least one of the first and second compartments or in others; the amount
- the inventors performed diligent research and found that a specific foam approach in combination with the technology relating to composition with high amounts of fatty materials could lead to good foamability and stability of the resulting foam, as well as good bleaching or coloring ability, in addition to no-malodor.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can provide superior cosmetic properties other than bleaching or coloring ability, such as good feeling to touch.
- the improvement of the cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibers such as hair can be achieved by specific conditions of the type and the amount of components in the cosmetic composition.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is characterized by being in the form of a mousse, and
- the amount of the (a) fatty material (s) is 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- foam or mousse are used indifferently.
- a mousse according the present invention is the mixture of gas, preferably air, with a composition , preferably in the form of liquid, cream or gel, and the mixture (expanded or aerated composition) can have at room temperature (preferably 25 °C) a density preferably less than 0.5, more preferably less than 0.3, better less than 0.2.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be an aerated composition.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty material, and two or more fatty materials may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty material or a combination of different type of fatty materials may be used.
- fatty material means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at
- the fatty material may contain, in its structure, a sequence of at least two siloxane groups or at ' least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.
- the fatty substances may be soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane .
- fatty material (s) do(es) not comprise any C 2 -C 3 oxyalkylene units or any glycerolated units.
- the fatty material may be in the. form of a liquid or a solid.
- liquid and solid mean that the fatty material is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) or solid, respectively, at ambient temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 5 Pa) . It is preferable that the fatty material be in the form of a liquid or a paste, more preferably in the form of a liquid, at ambient temperature and under atmospheric pressure.
- the fatty material may be selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic
- fatty acids fatty acids
- silicone oils fatty oils
- aliphatic hydrocarbons fatty materials may be volatile or non-volatile.
- the fatty material (s) is (are) selected from aliphatic hydrocarbons, plant oils, fatty alcohols, esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol other than animal or plant oils and synthetic glycerides, or mixtures thereof.
- aliphatic hydrocarbons examples include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene,
- alkanes examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
- caprylic/capric acid triglycerides for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel.
- silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane,
- octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxa e, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
- plant oils mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
- animal oils mention may be made of, for example, squalene, perhydrosqualene and squalane.
- esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol which are advantageously different from the animal or plant oils as well as the synthetic glycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or
- dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl. behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; Ci 2 -C 15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl
- lactate lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl
- esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
- diethyl sebacate diethyl sebacate
- diisopropyl sebacate diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate;
- pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate
- pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate propylene glycol dicaprylate ; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate ; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate ;
- diethylene glycol diisononanoate diethylene glycol diisononanoate
- polyethylene glycol distearates polyethylene glycol distearates
- esters mentioned above it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
- alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate
- composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 3 o and preferably C 12 -C22 fatty acids.
- sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 3 o and preferably C 12 -C22 fatty acids.
- sugar esters means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon- based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides,
- sucrose or saccharose
- glucose or saccharose
- galactose or ribose
- fructose maltose
- mannose ornose
- arabinose xylose
- lactose and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose .
- the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 and preferably Ci 2 -C 2 2 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-con ugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
- esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof .
- esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates,
- esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid examples include:
- sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61% monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61% diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
- Ryoto Sugar Esters for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di- triester-polyester ;
- sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company
- the fatty material may be at least one fatty acid. Two or more fatty acids may be used.
- the fatty acids should be in acidic form (i.e., unsalified, to avoid soaps) and may be saturated or unsaturated and contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in
- these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. They are more particularly chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.
- the fatty material is not a fatty acid.
- the fatty material may be at least one fatty alcohol, and two or more fatty alcohols may be used.
- fatty alcohol here means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched S - JO fatty alcohol, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4) . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
- C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols C 12 -C 2 2 fatty alcohols, for
- lauryl alcohol cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
- cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof e.g., cetearyl alcohol
- myristyl alcohol can be used as a solid fatty material.
- isostearyl alcohol can be used as a liquid fatty material.
- the fatty material may be a wax.
- wax means that the fatty material is substantially in the form of a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) , and has a melting point generally of 35°C or more.
- waxy fatty material waxes generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof.
- the wax may be chosen from carnauba wax,
- microcrystalline waxes ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyethylene waxes such as the wax sold under the name
- silicone waxes for instance poly(C 2 4- C 2 8) alkylmethyldimethylsiloxane, such as the product sold under the name "Abil Wax 9810" by the company Goldschmidt, palm butter, the C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the name "Kester Wax K82H” by the company Kester Keunen, stearyl benzoate, shellac wax, and mixtures thereof.
- polyethylene waxes is used.
- the wax is preferably chosen from candelilla wax and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.
- mineral oils are preferable.
- the amount of the (a) fatty material (s) is 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, more preferably 40% by weight or more, and further more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative, to the total weight of the cosmetic composition
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphotetic surfactant, and two or more amphoteric surfactants may be used.
- two or more amphoteric surfactants may be used.
- a single type of amphoteric surfactant or a combination of different type of amphoteric surfactants may be used.
- amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example . (nonlimiting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate) .
- amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine
- optionally quaternized amine derivatives in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate) .
- amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and amidoaminecarboxylated
- the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines ,
- alkylamidoalkylbetaines sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines , in particular, (C8-C24 ) alkylbetaines , (C 8 -C 24 ) alkylamido (Ci-C 8 ) alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, and (C 8 - C 24 ) alkylamido (Ci_C 8 ) alkylsulphobetaines .
- amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from (C 8 - C24) alkylbetaines, (C 8 -C24) alkylamido (Ci-C 8 ) alkylsulphobetaines, sulphobetaines, and phosphobetaines.
- Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine,
- coco/oleamidopropylbetaine cocamidopropylbetaine
- laurylhydroxysultaine and cocosultaine, alone or as mixtures.
- the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an
- alkylbetaine and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine in particular
- cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine are cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
- amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference) , under the names
- Ri denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri-COOH present in
- hydrolysed coconut oil a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical
- R 2 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group
- R 3 denotes a carboxymethyl group
- X' denotes a -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH group, -CH 2 -COOZ' , -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 - COOZ' or a hydrogen atom
- Y' denotes -COOH, -COOZ' , -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 Z' or a -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 H radical ,
- Z' represents an ion of an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion issued from an organic amine, and
- Ri' denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri'-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C 7 , Cg, Cii or C13 . alkyl radical, a Cn alkyl radical and its iso form, or an unsaturated Ci 7 radical.
- amphoteric surfactant be selected from (C8-C 24 ) -alkyl amphomonoacetates , (Cs-C 24 ) alkyl amphodiacetates , (C 8 -C 24 ) alkyl amphomonopropionates, and (C 8 -C 2 ) alkyl
- Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid and Cocoamphodipropionic acid.
- cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.
- the amount of the (b) amphotetic surfactant ( s ) may range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric polymer, and two or more amphoteric polymers may be used in combination.
- two or more amphoteric polymers may be used in combination.
- a single type of amphoteric polymer or a combination of different type of amphoteric polymers may be used.
- amphoteric polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from the polymers containing K and M units distributed- randomly in the polymer chain where K denotes a unit which is derived from a monomer containing at least one basic nitrogen atom and M denotes a unit which is derived from an acidic monomer containing one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups or alternatively K and M may denote groups which are derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or of sulphobetaines .
- K and M may also denote a cationic polymer chain containing primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group linked through a hydrocarbon radical or alternatively K and M form part of a chain of a polymer with an a, ⁇ -dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been caused to react with a polyamine containing one or more primary or secondary amine groups .
- amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above which are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:
- acrylate/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold under the name POLYQUART KE 3033 by the company HENKEL.
- the vinyl compound may also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
- the copolymers of acrylic acid and of the latter monomer are provided under the names MERQUAT 280, MERQUAT 295 and MERQUAT PLUS 3330 by the company CALGON.
- methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl radical b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and
- At least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulphate
- alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert- octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N- dodecylacrylamide as well as the. corresponding methacrylamides.
- the acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids as well as the alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric anhydrides or acids.
- the basic comonomers preferred are methacrylates of aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl , N, N ' -dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl .
- copolymers whose CTFA name (4th ed. 1991) is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH.
- polyaminoamides derived from polyaminoamides of the following general formula:
- R represents a divalent radical derived from a
- the radical -NH- (CH 2 ) 6 ⁇ NH- w ' hich is derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyamino amines being crosslinked by adding a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from the epihalohydrins , diepoxides, dianhydrides , bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyamino amide and alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or of an alkanesultone or of their salts.
- a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from the epihalohydrins , diepoxides, dianhydrides , bis-unsaturated derivatives
- the saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from the acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic, 2,2,4- trimethyladipic and 2 , 4 , -trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, the acids with ethylene double bond such as for example acrylic, methacrylic and itaconic acids.
- alkanesultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane or butanesultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are
- R 5 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group
- y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3
- R 6 and R 7 represent a
- R 8 and R 9 represent a hyrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in Rs and R 9 does not exceed 10.
- the polymers comprising such units may also comprise units
- copolymer of butyl methacrylate/dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ.
- the (VI) unit being present in proportions of from 0 to 30%, the
- Rii, Ri 2 and Ri 3 which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionally substituted with one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulphonic groups, or an alkylthio residue whose alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of the Rn, Ri 2 and Ri 3 radicals being in this case a hydrogen atom;
- Rn, R 12 and Ri 3 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.
- R 14 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH 3 0, CH 3 CH 2 0 or phenyl radical
- R 15 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl
- R 16 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl
- R 17 denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl or a radical corresponding to the formula: - Ri8- (Ri 6 )2 Ri8 representing a group -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 - or -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -, R 16 having the meanings mentioned above,
- Amphoteric polymers of the -D-X-D-X- type chosen from:
- E or E', E or E 1 which are identical or different, denote a bivalent radical which is an alkylene radical with a linear or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the principal chain which is unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups and which may contain, in addition, oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulphur atoms being present in the form.
- E denotes the symbol E or E ' and, at least once, E 1 ;
- E having the meaning indicated above and E 1 is a bivalent radical which is an alkylene radical with a linear or branched chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in the principal chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl radicals and containing one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily containing one or more carboxyl functional groups or one or more hydroxyl functional groups and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate .
- These copolymers may also contain other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
- amphoteric polymers particularly preferred according to the invention are those of the family (1), particularly those
- amphoteric polymers may be chosen from Polyquaternium-22 , Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-64 , and mixtures thereof.
- amphoteric polymers are chosen from:
- Polyquaternium-22 and mixtures thereof.
- Polyquaternium-22 for example the product Merquat 280 sold by Nalco, is more preferable.
- the amount of the amphoteric polymer (s) may range from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
- Non-Volatile Alkaline Agent comprises at least one non-volatile alkaline agent, and two or more non-volatile alkaline agents may be used. Thus, a single type of non-volatile alkaline agent or a combination of different type of non-volatile alkaline agents may be used.
- non-volatile alkaline agent means that the alkaline agent does not correspond to ammonia which is volatile.
- a non volatile agent in the scope of the invention means that the vapor pressure is generally lesser than 0.02 mmHg(2.66Pa) at room temperature .
- the non-volatile alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of alkaline metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; alkaline metal
- hydro carbonates alkaline earth metal (hydrogeno) carbonates; and alkaline metal metasilicates .
- inorganic alkaline agent mention may be made of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium hydrogenocarbonate, potassium hydrogenocarbonate, and sodium metasilicate .
- the non-volatile alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of monoamines and derivatives thereof, such as alkanolamines ; diamines and derivatives thereof, such as alkanolamines ; polyamines and derivatives thereof, such as alkanolamines; amino acids, preferably basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; oligomers of amino acids, preferably basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; polymers of amino acids, preferably basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; urea and derivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof.
- monoamines and derivatives thereof such as alkanolamines ; diamines and derivatives thereof, such as alkanolamines ; polyamines and derivatives thereof, such as alkanolamines
- amino acids preferably basic amino acids and derivatives thereof
- oligomers of amino acids preferably basic amino acids and derivatives thereof
- polymers of amino acids preferably basic amino acids and derivative
- alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl (C1-C4) groups.
- alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine,
- diisopropanolamine N, N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino—2-methy1-1- propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol, 3-amino-l, 2-propanediol , 3-dimethylamino-l , 2-propanediol , tris (hydroxymethylamino) methane .
- the organic alkaline agents may also be selected from urea, guanidine and their derivatives; aminoacids such as alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine,
- aminoacids such as alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine,
- tryptophan, tyrosine and valine basic amino acids such as lysine, histidine, ornithine, citrulline or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below:
- W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally
- R c and R d independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3- propanediamine and derivatives thereof.
- basic amino acids such as lysine, histidine, ornithine, citrulline or arginine are preferred.
- non-volatile alkaline agent be selected from alkanolamines , and particularly monoethanolamine .
- the non-volatile alkaline agent (s) may be used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oxidizing agent, and two or more oxidizing agents may be used.
- a single type of oxidizing agent or a combination of different type of oxidizing agents may be used.
- the oxidizing agent may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide,
- the oxidizing agent can be chosen from aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates and ferricyanides and persalts such as perborates and persulphates .
- the oxidizing agent be hydrogen peroxide.
- the oxidizing agent's concentration may range from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
- the composition may comprise at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, which may be chosen, for example, from alkali metal and alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, alkali metal and alkaline-earth metal stannates, phenacetin and salts of acids and of oxyquinoline, for example, oxyquinoline sulphate.
- at least one stannate optionally in combination with at least one pyrophosphate is used.
- the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide stabilizer may range from 0.0001 to 5% by weight such as from 0.01 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
- composition comprising hydrogen peroxide
- concentration ratio of the hydrogen peroxide to the stabilizer may range from 0.05:1 to 1,000:1, such as from 0.1:1 to 500:1 and further such as from 1:1 to 300:1.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one foam stabilize, and two or more foam stabilizers may be used in combination.
- two or more foam stabilizers may be used in combination.
- a single type of foam stabilizer or a combination of different type of foam stabilizers may be used.
- any substance which can stabilize foam formed by the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be used as the foam stabilizer.
- the foam stabilizer may be a rheology modifier selected from hydrophilic or lipophilic, organic or inorganic polymers and non- polymers .
- rheology modifier for example, mention may be made of: partly or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes , of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16, and KSG18 by Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E- 506C by Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel, and SR DC 556 gel by Grant Industries, and SF 1204 and JK 113 by General Electric; and
- silicone gums such as the PDMS, having a viscosity of equal to or more than 100,000 centistokes .
- the rheology modifier may preferably be chosen from organophilic clays; fumed silicas; fatty acid amides;, thickening polymers such as cellulose polymers, galactomannans and derivatives thereof, gums of microbial origin, acrylic acid or
- associative polymers and mixture thereof.
- organophilic clays and fumed silicas for example, mention may be made of:
- optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified with a Cio to C22 ' fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride; and
- pyrogenic silica optionally having received a hydrophobic surface treatment, whose particle size is less than 1 ⁇ .
- any amide comprising in its structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms may be used.
- the fatty acid amides may be chosen from compounds derived from an amide of alkanolamine and of a
- oxyalkenylated and more particularly oxyethylenated with 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide.
- the fatty acid amides are preferably chosen from amides of a C 2 - C10 alkanolamine and of a C14-C30 fatty acid, and more preferably chosen from amides of a C 2 -Ci 0 alkanolamine and of a C14-C22 fatty acid.
- the fatty acid amide may be chosen from:
- - myristic acid monoethanolamide such as the amide sold under the trade name Comperlan®MM by the company Cognis
- - soybean fatty acid diethanolamide such as the amide sold under the trade name Comperlan®VOD by the company Cognis
- eruic acid diethanolamide such as the amide sold under the trade name eruic acid diethanolamide by the company Stearineries Dubois,
- ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide such as the amide sold under the trade name ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide by the company Stearineries Dubois, and
- cellulose polymers for example, mention may be made of: hydroxyethylcelluloses , hydroxypropylcelluloses , methylcelluloses , ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses , carboxymethylcelluloses , and
- acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers for example, mention may be made of:
- acrylic acid homopolymers crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether of the sugar series for example, the products sold under the names CARBOPOL 980, 981, 954, 2984, and 5984 by the company Goodrich and the products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VSA;
- any amphiphilic polymer comprising, in its structure, at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion, may be used.
- disclosure may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers.
- the associative anionic polymers that non-limiting mention may be made of those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, for example, those in which the at least one hydrophilic unit comprises at least one ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomeric residue chosen, for example, from the residue of a vinylcarboxylic acid, the residue of an acrylic acid, and the residue of a methacrylic acid, and in which the at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit is chosen from the residues of the monomers of formula below:
- CH 2 C (R' ) CH 2 OB n R
- R' is chosen from H and CH 3
- B is an ethylenoxy radical
- n is 0 or an integer ranging from 1 to 100
- R is chosen from hydrocarbon-based radicals chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, from 10 to 24 and further for example from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
- Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to an emulsion polymerization process described in document EP-0 216 479.
- Associative anionic polymers that non-limiting mention may be made include anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (C10-C30 ) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
- Cationic associative polymers that non-limiting mention may be made include quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates comprising at least one amine side group.
- the nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from at least one celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, for example C 8 -c2 / arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, for example
- guars for example hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomeric residues,
- methacrylates and acrylates and of hydrophobic monomeric residues comprising at least one fatty chain for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer,
- the associative polymers may be chosen from
- associative polyurethanes may be chosen from nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both
- hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature, and hydrophobic blocks that may be chosen from aliphatic sequences, cycloaliphatic sequences, and aromatic sequences.
- these polymers may comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, wherein the hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains may be chosen from pendant chains and chains at the end of a hydrophilic block.
- the polymers may comprise at least one pendant chain.
- the polymers may comprise a
- hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic block.
- the associative polyurethanes may be blocked in triblock or multiblock form.
- the hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and within the chain (for example multiblock copolymer).
- These polymers may also be chosen from graft polymers and starburst polymers .
- the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.
- the associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the name.
- an associative polymer that may also be used is Rheolate 205 comprising a urea functional group, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate 208 or 204. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form.
- the product DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas comprising a C 2 o alkyl chain with a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
- solutions or dispersions of these polymers for example, in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium.
- examples of such polymers that non- limiting mention may be made include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD 1070 from the company Servo Delden, and Rheolate 255, Rholate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox.
- Rheox It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J, and also Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from the company Rohm & Haas, or alternatively Borchigel LW 44 from the company Borchers.
- the polymers that may be used include those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen--Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993).
- the foam stabilizer may more preferably be selected from
- the amount of the foam stabilizer ( s ) may range from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can comprise at least one coloring substance, and two or more
- coloring substances may be used. Thus, a single type of coloring substance or a combination of different type of. coloring
- the coloring substance may be an oxidation dye.
- the oxidation dye can be selected from oxidation bases, oxidation couplers, and the acid addition salts thereof.
- the oxidation base can be selected from those conventionally known in oxidation dyeing, preferably from the group consisting of ortho- and para-phenylenediamines , double bases, ortho- and para-aminophenols , heterocyclic bases and the acid addition salts thereof .
- Most particularly preferred bases are para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2- isopropyl-paraphenylenediamine, 2- ⁇ -hydroxyethyl-para ⁇ phenylenediamine, 2 ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2, 6- dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 , 6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 , 3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, -bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl ) -paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine , and addition salts thereof with an acid.
- the following bases can be cited ⁇ , ⁇ '- bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl ) -N, N' -bis ( 4 ' -aminophenyl ) -1 , 3-diaminopropanol ⁇ , ⁇ ' -bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl ) - ⁇ , ⁇ ' -bis (4' -aminophenyl) ethylenediamine N, N' -bis (4-aminophenyl) -tetramethylenediamine, N, N' -bis ( ⁇ - hydroxyethyl ) -N, ' -bis (4-aminophenyl ) tetramethylenediamine, N, N' bis ( 4-methylaminophenyl ) tetramethylenediamine, ⁇ , ⁇ ' -bis (ethyl) - ⁇ , ⁇ ' -bis (4' -amino-3' -methylphenyl ) ethylene-d
- para-aminophenols that can be used are para-aminophenol, 4- amino-3-methylphenol , 4-amino-3-fluorophenol , 4-amino-3- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylaminomethyl ) henol, and addition salts thereof with an acid.
- the ortho-aminophenols which can be used as oxidation bases in the context of the present invention are chosen in particular from 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-l-hydroxy-5-methylbenzene, 2-amino-l hydroxy-6-methylbenzene, 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and addition salts thereof with an acid.
- heterocyclic bases which can be used as oxidation base in the dyeing compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned more particularly pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, and addition salts thereof with an acid.
- pyridine derivatives there may be mentioned more particularly the compounds described for example in Patents GB 1,026,978 and GB 1,153,196, such as 2 , 5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4- methoxyphenyl ) amino-3-aminopyridine, 2, 3-diamino-6- methoxypyridine, 2- ( ⁇ -methoxyethyl ) amino-3-amino-6- methoxypyridine, 3, 4-diaminopyridine, and addition salts thereof with an acid.
- pyrimidine derivatives there may be mentioned more particularly the compounds described, for example, in Patents DE 2 359 399; JP 88-169571; JP 91-10659 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2, 4, 5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2 , 5 , 6- triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4 , 5 , 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4- dihydroxy-5, 6-diaminopyrimidine, 2, 5, 6-triamino-pyrimidine, and the pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives such as those mentioned in patent application FR-A-2 750 048 and among which there may be mentioned pyrazolo [1, 5-a] -pyrimidine-3 , 7-diamine; 2, 5-dimethyl- pyrazolo [1, 5-a] -pyrimidine-3 , 7-diamine; pyrazolo [1, 5- a] pyrimidine-3, 5-diamine; 2 , 7-di
- heterocyclic bases which can be used as oxidation base there may be mentioned more particularly
- diaminopyrazolopyrazolones and especially 2 , 3-diamino-6, 7- dihydro-lH, 5H- [pyrazolol, 2 , a] pyrazol-l-one (IV) and the addition salts of these diaminopyrazolopyrazolones with an acid.
- the oxidation dye may be an oxidation coupler which can be selected from those conventionally known in oxidation dyeing, preferably from the group consisting of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols , naphthols, heterocyclic couplers and the acid addition salts thereof.
- the heterocyclic couplers may be selected from the group consisting of:
- indole derivatives consisting of indole derivatives, indoline derivatives, sesamol and its derivatives, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotriazole derivatives, pyrazolones, indazoles, benzimidazoles ,
- benzothiazoles benzoxazoles , 1, 3-benzodioxoles, quinolines and addition salts thereof with an acid.
- couplers are more particularly chosen from 2 , -diamino-l- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5- ⁇ -( ⁇ - hydroxyethyl ) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol , 2-chloro-3- amino-6-methylphenol, 1, 3-dihydroxybenzene, 1, 3-dihydroxy-2- methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l, 3-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-4- ( ⁇ - hydroxyethylamino) -1-methoxybenzene, 1 , 3-diaminobenzene, 2- methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol , 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene , 1, 3- bis (2, 4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, sesamol, l-amino-2-methoxy-4 , 5- methylene-dioxybenzene, a-naphthol, 6-
- the addition acid salts of the oxidation bases and couplers are chosen in particular from hydrochlorides,
- hydrobromides , sulphates, tartrates, lactates and acetates.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise an oxidation dye or dyes in an amount of from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the coloring substance may be a direct dye.
- the direct dye can be selected from ionic and nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species.
- one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the sequences may be engaged in a ring. More
- the dyes of this family are derived from compounds of the type such as methines, azomethines, mono- and
- diarylmethanes indoamines (or diphenylamines ) , indophenols, indoanilines, carbocyanins, azacarbocyanins and isomers thereof, diazacarbocyanins and isomers thereof, tetraazacarbocyanins and hemicyanins .
- dyes of the carbonyl family examples that may mentioned include dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone , naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone idanthrone, flavone, (iso) violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimi azolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine , diketopyrrolopyrrole and
- dyes of the cyclic azine family mention may be made especially of azine, xanthene, thioxanthene , fluorindine, acridine, (di)oxazine, (di)thiazine and pyronin.
- nitro (hetero) aromatic dyes are more particularly
- cationic or non-cationic compounds optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for instance alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals, zinc and silicon.
- nitrobenzene dyes include nitrobenzene dyes; azo direct dyes; azomethine direct dyes; methine direct dyes; azacarbocyanin direct dyes, for instance tetraazacarbocyanins ( tetraazapentamethines ) ; quinone and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes; azine; xanthene; triarylmethane; indoamine; indigoid;
- phthalocyanin direct dyes phthalocyanin direct dyes, porphyrins and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
- natural direct dyes mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin,
- the direct dye(s) more particularly represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise an aqueous medium.
- the aqueous medium in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise water.
- the amount of water may be less than 80%, preferably 5 wt% to 75 wt%, more preferably 10 wt% to 75wt%, and further more preferably 20 wt% to 70wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the aqueous medium may further comprise at least one organic solvent.
- the organic solvent is preferably water-miscible .
- the organic solvent there may be mentioned, for example, 1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol ; polyols and
- polyolethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol , propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, monoethyl ether and
- the organic solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 1 to 40 wt%, preferably from 1 to 30 wt%, and more preferably from 5 to 20 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one additional surfactant other than the above (b) amphoteric surfactant.
- the additional surfactant used in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants. Two or more additional surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of additional surfactant or a combination of different type of additional surfactants may be used.
- the anionic surfactant is not limited. It is preferable that the anionic surfactant be selected from the group consisting of (C 6 -C 30 ) alkyl sulfates, (C 6 -C 30 ) alkyl ether sulfates, (C 6 -C 30 ) alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates;
- sarcosinates (C 6 -C 2 4)acyl glutamates; (C 6 -C 30 ) alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic ethers; (C 6 -C 30 ) alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates ;
- anionic surfactant be selected from salts of (C 6 -C 30 ) alkyl sulfate.
- the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts such as salts of alkali metals, for instance
- the surfactant is not limited.
- the cationic surfactant may be
- quaternary ammonium salts examples include, but are not limited to:
- Ri ⁇ 3r and R 4 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
- the aliphatic radicals may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C 2 - e polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkylamido (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl, (Ci 2 - C22 ) alkylacetate and hydroxyalkyl radicals; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and
- X " is chosen from ha1ides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl sulfates and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates ;
- R 5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or of coconut;
- R 6 is chosen from hydrogen, C1-C4 alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and- alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
- R 7 is chosen from C1-C4 alkyl radicals
- Re is chosen from hydrogen and C1-C4 alkyl radicals
- X is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates.
- R 5 and R 6 are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 7 is methyl and R 8 is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, 90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company itco;
- diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (III) R 9 — ⁇ NI-— * (C3 ⁇ 4) 3 —-NI—% 2X-
- R 9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms
- Rio is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Riga) (Ri7a) (Riga) + (CH 2 ) 3 ;
- R11, Ri2 Ri3? i i6a Ri a? and Ri8a which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- X " is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates, and methyl sulfates.
- diquaternary ammonium salt is propanetallowdiammonium dichloride
- quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula (IV) below:
- R22 is chosen from Ci-C 6 alkyl radicals and Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
- R23 is chosen from:
- R 2 5 is chosen from:
- Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon- based radicals R 29 , and hydrogen, R24 f R 2 6 A and R 2 8 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C 7 -C 2 i,
- r, s, and t which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
- y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10;
- x and z which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
- X " is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R 2 3 denotes R 27 , and that when z is 0, R 2 5
- R 22 may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R 22 is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R 22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 10.
- R 2 3 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R 27 , it may be long and comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical
- hydrocarbon-based radical R 2 9 it may comprise, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- R 2 , R 2 6, and R 2 8, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Cn-C 2 i alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
- x and z which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1.
- y is equal to 1.
- r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example equal to 2.
- the anion X " may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as
- chloride, bromide, and iodide chloride, bromide, and iodide
- C1-C4 alkyl sulfates such as methyl sulfate.
- methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used according to the invention.
- the anion X " is chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.
- ammonium salts of formula (IV) may be used, wherein:
- R 22 is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals
- x and y are equal to 1;
- z is equal to 0 or 1;
- R 23 is chosen from:
- R25 is chosen from:
- R 2 6i and R 2 8, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, Ci3-C 17
- hydrocarbon-based radicals for example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, Ci 3 -Ci 7 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
- the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
- Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula. (IV) that may be mentioned include salts, for example chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl- hydroxyethyl-methylamm- onium, of monoacyloxyethyl- dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl- ammonium, and mixtures thereof.
- the acyl radicals may comprise from 14 to. 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
- alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof.
- This esterification may be followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl
- Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and "Rewoquat® WE 18" by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt .
- compositions according to the invention may comprise, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
- ammonium salts that may be used in the compositions according to the invention include the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.
- compositions according to the invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance
- dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium,
- the cationic surfactant that may be used in the compositions of the invention is chosen from
- nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in themselves (see, e.g., in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids that are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 2 to 30.
- Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils from plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol; (C6-C24) alkylpolyglycosides ; N- (C 6 -C 24 ) alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) alkylamine oxide
- the nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from
- the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a
- oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants examples include:
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols are examples of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols,
- the surfactants contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100 and preferably between 2 and 50.
- the nonionic surfactants do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
- the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from
- ethoxylated fatty alcohols or C 8 -C3o alcohols
- examples of ethoxylated fatty alcohols (or C 8 -C3o alcohols ) that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50
- oxyethylene groups and more particularly those containing from 10 to 12 oxyethylene groups (Laureth-10 to Laureth-12, as the CTFA names) ; the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene groups
- PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate
- PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate
- PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (as the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); and mixtures thereof.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one ethoxylated fatty alcohol.
- monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants.
- monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 4 o alcohols are preferably used.
- the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula:
- lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether) , cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol .
- the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of
- polyglycerolated fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture .
- the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols it is more particularly preferred to use the Ce/Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10 C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
- the nonionic surfactant may be a nonionic surfactant with an HLB from 8 to 18.
- the HLB is the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. This term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is
- the amount of the additional surfactant ( s ) may range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 .to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other agents, known
- the form of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may take various forms such as an O/W emulsion, a W/O emulsion, a multiple emulsion or the like.
- the form of an O/W emulsion is preferable.
- the pH of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention applied to the keratin fibers may be generally, for example, from 4 to 12. It can range from 6 to 12, preferably 7 to 11, and may be adjusted to the desired value using at least one acidifying agent that is well known in the prior art.
- the acidifying agents can be, for example, mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or sulphonic acids.
- the viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited.
- the viscosity can be measured at 25°C with viscosimeters or rheometers preferably with coneplan geometry.
- the viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the invention can range, for example, from 1 to 2000 Pa.s, and preferably from 1 to 1000 Pa.s at 25°C with a shear rate of Is -1 .
- composition according to the invention may also comprise a propellant.
- propellant for the purposes of the invention, the term
- propellant means any compound that is gaseous at a
- the propellant may be chosen from optionally halogenated
- volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane or a halogenated hydrocarbon, and mixtures thereof.
- Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME) , nitrogen or compressed air may also be used as propellant. Mixtures of propellants may also be used. Dimethyl ether and/or non- halogenated volatile hydrocarbons are preferably used.
- the propellant ( s ) may be present in the composition in a
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components (a) to (f), together with the above optional component ( s ) , if necessary. More particularly, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a ready-to-use composition.
- the expression "ready-to-use" composition is defined herein as a composition to be applied immediately to keratin fibers such as hair.
- the "ready-to-use" composition may be prepared by, for example, mixing or shaking the essential components (a) to (f), and any optional
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be formulated into a multi-compartments system or kit comprising at least a first compartment and a second compartment, in which the first compartment comprises at least one non-volatile alkaline agent ( component (d) ) and optionally at least one coloring substance (direct dyes and/or oxidation dyes (component (g))and the second compartment comprises at least one oxidizing agent (component (e) ) ; the other essential components (a) , (b) , (c) and (f) and any optional component (s) being present,
- the amount of fatty material (s) (component (a) ) in the composition obtained by mixing the compartments being of 20 % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the multi-compartment system may be equipped with a means for mixing and/or applying the above compositions such as a valve and a nozzle.
- composition in the form of a mousse according to the present invention can be formed from air, inert gas or a mixture thereof with the previously described composition.
- the composition according to the present invention has the form of a temporary foam produced just before use.
- the composition can be packaged in a foam dispenser. It can involve either products referred to as "aerosols" dispensed from a pressurized container by means of a propellant gas and thus forming a foam at the time of their dispensing, or compositions dispensed from a container by means of a mechanical pump connected to a dispensing head where the passage of the composition through the dispensing head transforms it into a foam in the area of the outlet orifice of such a head at the latest.
- the dispenser can be an aerosol furthermore containing the composition according to the present invention, generally divided into two parts: one with the
- propellant gases selected for each of the containers can be adapted to the part of the composition with which it is mixed.
- the propellant gas which can be used may be chosen among the previously mentioned gases and in particular among carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitrogen oxide, dimethyl ether, volatile hydrocarbons such as butane, isobutane, propane and pentane, and mixtures thereof .
- aerosol packaging can be used with a single container which has two pouches inside it.
- dispensing head is such that what is sprayed in foam form is the composition according to the. present invention, meaning the mixture of the composition with the oxidizing agent (s) and the composition with the oxidation coloring substance ( s ) .
- the composition can be in a
- dispensers include a dispensing head for delivering the composition, a pump and a plunger tube for transferring the composition from the container, into the head, for dispensing the product.
- the foam is formed by forcing the composition to pass through a material including a porous substance such as a sintered material, a filtering grid of plastic or metal, or similar structures.
- the oxidizing agent (s) is packaged in a first container having a cap, and the alkaline agent (s) and optionally the coloring substance (s) are packaged in the second container, separate from the first, and also sealed by a closing unit.
- the closing unit can be a pump dispensing mechanism.
- the composition according to the present invention is then formed before use by mixing a composition with the oxidizing agent (s) and a composition with the coloring substance ( s ) .
- one of the first or second containers has a sufficient inside volume for receiving the entirety of both compositions therein.
- the mixture of the compositions can then be homogenized by closing this container and shaking the container.
- the alkaline agent (s) and optionally the coloring substance (s) are packaged in the second container, separate from the first, and also sealed by a closing unit.
- the closing unit can be a pump dispensing mechanism.
- the composition according to the present invention is then formed before use by mixing a composition with the oxidizing agent (s) and a composition with
- This dispensing head comprises a mechanical pump held in a ring intended for assembly by clicking or screwing onto the neck of the container which contains the mixture.
- the pump comprises a pump body connected to a plunger tube in order to dispense the entirety of the mixture.
- the pump also comprises a pushbutton for actuating the pump body, such that with each actuation, a dose of composition is aspirated from inside the plunger tube and ejected in foam form at the dispensing head orifice.
- the containers are made of a thermoplastic material, and are made by extrusion blow molding or injection blow molding processes.
- the container intended for packaging the composition with the coloring substance (s) can be made of a material comprising a nonzero proportion of EVOH.
- the pump is the standard "F2-L9" model sold by the REXAM company.
- the purpose of the present invention is a non-aerosol device comprising the
- composition from the present invention is derived from the present invention.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:
- the mixing or shaking can be performed by any means such as a spoon and a whisk, to aerate the cosmetic composition.
- the mixing or shaking is performed by using a device dispensing a mousse, aerosol or non aerosol, such a described before.
- the cosmetic process the cosmetic
- composition according to the present invention can be used in treating (e.g., coloring or bleaching) keratin fibers such as hair, comprising, for example, the steps of:
- a cosmetic composition in the form of a mousse which is either prepared by mixing or shaking, just before the application to the keratin fibers, one or more of the essential components (a) to (f) and the other essential components in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention; leaving the cosmetic composition to act for an exposure time, ranging, for example, from approximately 1 to 60 minutes, or from approximately 5 to 45 minutes;
- the application of the cosmetic composition may be realized at room temperature or with the use of a warming device which is able to produce a temperature ranging from 40 to 220°C, and preferably ranging from 40 to 80°C.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a mousse.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can provide a user with foam texture when applying it to keratin fibers, and with cream texture when spreading it on keratin fibers. Accordingly, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be handled easily without reduced risk of dripping off, and can provide good feeling for use.
- Comparative Example 1 shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1.
- the numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in the Tables are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
- composition was applied immediately after the preparation thereof onto a swatch of Japanese black hair in a weight ratio 4:1 (the composition : the hair swatch).
- the applied hair swatch was left for 30 minutes at 30°C. Then, it was washed out by shampoo and dried. Color of the hair swatch was then measured by Minolta CM-508d. Calculating this value in comparison with untreated black hair swatch and ⁇ (between the color of the untreated original hair and the color of the bleached hair under L * a * b * system) was calculated.
- composition was applied immediately after the preparation thereof onto the hair of a panelist.
- the applied hair was left for 30 minutes at 30°C. Then, it was washed with shampoo and dried.
- the feeling of touch on the hair before and after drying was evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.
- composition according to Example 1 has satisfactory properties in terms of all of bleaching ability, foaming property and cosmetic property.
- the composition according to Example 2 was applied immediately after the preparation thereof onto a swatch of Japanese bleached hair (light brown) in a weight ratio 4:1 (the composition : the hair swatch) .
- the applied hair swatch was left for 30 minutes at 30°C. Then, it was washed out by shampoo and dried. The color of the hair swatch was checked by eye-observation.
- composition according to Example 2 was confirmed to have good coloring property.
- composition according to Example 2 has the same ingredients as the composition according to Example 1 has, except for oxidation dye precursors and couplers, the composition according to Example 2 should also have satisfactory properties, in terms of all of bleaching ability, foaming property and cosmetic property, which are equivalent to those for Example 1.
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour des fibres kératiniques, sous une forme de mousse, comprenant : (a) au moins une matière grasse ; (b) au moins un agent tensio-actif amphotère ; (c) au moins un polymère amphotère ; (d) au moins un agent alcalin non volatil ; (e) au moins un agent oxydant ; et (f) au moins un stabilisant de mousse ; la quantité de la ou des matières grasses (a) étant de 20 % en poids ou plus, de préférence de 30 % en poids ou plus, et plus préférablement de 40 % en poids ou plus, par rapport au poids total de la composition. La présente invention est utile, en raison du fait que la composition cosmétique selon la présente invention peut avoir une bonne aptitude au moussage ainsi qu'une bonne capacité de blanchiment ou de coloration, sans odeur désagréable provenant de l'ammoniac.
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PCT/JP2011/076341 WO2013069165A1 (fr) | 2011-11-09 | 2011-11-09 | Composition cosmétique pour des fibres kératiniques |
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PCT/JP2011/076341 WO2013069165A1 (fr) | 2011-11-09 | 2011-11-09 | Composition cosmétique pour des fibres kératiniques |
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Cited By (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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WO2020045135A1 (fr) * | 2018-08-30 | 2020-03-05 | L'oreal | Composition moussante comprenant de l'huile |
CN113226252A (zh) * | 2018-12-20 | 2021-08-06 | 欧莱雅 | 含有富含脂肪物质的组合物的气溶胶泡沫装置 |
US11357714B2 (en) | 2020-07-21 | 2022-06-14 | Chembeau LLC | Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof |
US11826455B2 (en) | 2018-08-30 | 2023-11-28 | L'oreal | Self-healing or self-repairing film forming composition |
US11833234B2 (en) | 2018-08-30 | 2023-12-05 | L'oreal | Emulsions with a high internal oil phase |
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US11826455B2 (en) | 2018-08-30 | 2023-11-28 | L'oreal | Self-healing or self-repairing film forming composition |
JP2020033299A (ja) * | 2018-08-30 | 2020-03-05 | ロレアル | 油を含む発泡性組成物 |
CN112566610A (zh) * | 2018-08-30 | 2021-03-26 | 莱雅公司 | 包含油的发泡组合物 |
US12102699B2 (en) | 2018-08-30 | 2024-10-01 | L'oreal | Foaming composition comprising oil |
WO2020045135A1 (fr) * | 2018-08-30 | 2020-03-05 | L'oreal | Composition moussante comprenant de l'huile |
JP7179534B2 (ja) | 2018-08-30 | 2022-11-29 | ロレアル | 油を含む発泡性組成物 |
CN112566610B (zh) * | 2018-08-30 | 2023-04-04 | 莱雅公司 | 包含油的发泡组合物 |
US11833234B2 (en) | 2018-08-30 | 2023-12-05 | L'oreal | Emulsions with a high internal oil phase |
CN113226252A (zh) * | 2018-12-20 | 2021-08-06 | 欧莱雅 | 含有富含脂肪物质的组合物的气溶胶泡沫装置 |
JP2022514883A (ja) * | 2018-12-20 | 2022-02-16 | ロレアル | 脂肪性物質に富む組成物を含有するエアロゾル泡装置 |
US11491092B2 (en) | 2020-07-21 | 2022-11-08 | Chembeau LLC | Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof |
US11801211B2 (en) | 2020-07-21 | 2023-10-31 | Chembeau LLC | Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof |
US11357714B2 (en) | 2020-07-21 | 2022-06-14 | Chembeau LLC | Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof |
US12214065B2 (en) | 2020-07-21 | 2025-02-04 | Chembeau LLC | Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof |
US12285508B2 (en) | 2020-07-21 | 2025-04-29 | Chembeau LLC | Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof |
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