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WO2018142427A1 - Tissu tricoté pour vêtement de travail et son procédé de fabrication - Google Patents

Tissu tricoté pour vêtement de travail et son procédé de fabrication Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2018142427A1
WO2018142427A1 PCT/IN2018/050055 IN2018050055W WO2018142427A1 WO 2018142427 A1 WO2018142427 A1 WO 2018142427A1 IN 2018050055 W IN2018050055 W IN 2018050055W WO 2018142427 A1 WO2018142427 A1 WO 2018142427A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
yarn
workwear
knitted
knitted fabric
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IN2018/050055
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Satyapriya DASH
Sunny SHARMA
Vipul Patel
Manoj DIXIT
Original Assignee
Arvind Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Arvind Limited filed Critical Arvind Limited
Publication of WO2018142427A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018142427A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02—Setting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B9/00—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B9/26—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles for producing patterned fabrics
    • D04B9/28—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles for producing patterned fabrics with colour patterns
    • D04B9/34—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles for producing patterned fabrics with colour patterns by plating
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C21/00—Shrinking by compressing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C3/00—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to workwear fabrics and a process for preparing workwear fabrics.
  • Workwear is a dress worn, by manual labour employed within industries for work, as workwear provides safety to the user. Workwear clothing directly affects productivity and efficiency of the manual labour if he/she finds it uncomfortable to wear at working environment. Hence, workwear must be durable and have high
  • workwear garments/apparels are made from woven fabrics due to their high dimension stability. K nitted fabrics are not used and preferred as workwear fabric due to the low dimensional stability. For example, shrinkage of the knitted fabrics is more than 5% due to low twist level in yarn which results into pilling on the fabric and low strength. Therefore, traditionally, the woven 100% cotton fabric comprising Canvas, Denim, Corduroy are mostly preferred as workwear in order to have more strength and durability. However, cotton fabrics used as workwear are generally of 350 to 500 GSM which makes the workwear heavy and therefore it is observed that the cotton workwear are not comfortable for work. Workwear made of cotton and a synthetic fibre blend are also known in the art which include Polyester or Nylon 66 blended with cotton. The blending reduces
  • 3 ⁇ 4 GSM in a range of 250 to 280.
  • these synthetic fibre blends have pilling problem which leads to surface defect and is considered as unsightly.
  • Various efforts have been made including giving workwear fabrics stiff finish to have more surface friction. Though, it increases pilling resistance and crease recovery which solves pilling problem to an extent, but the feel of the fabric becomes uncomfortable to the wearer/user which directly affects productivity and efficiency of the user.
  • the present invention provides a process for preparation of knitted workwear fabric comprising steps of providing a knitted fabric having a plated structure of spun yarn on a face end and synthetic filament yarn on a back end of the fabric.
  • the knitted fabric is knitted in a loop and stitch arrangement such that a vortex spun yarn on a face-end passes through a filament yarn on a back-end to form a plated structure of the fabric by using a two feeder mechanism.
  • Next step involves wet processing of the knitted fabric by scouring for removing natural impurities therefrom.
  • dyeing of plated structure of the fabric is done.
  • the fabric of the above step is subjected to hot wash followed by acid neutralisation and cold washing.
  • the washed knitted fabric is then further subjected for opening operation in slitting machine to open width thereof, wherein the slitting fabric runs at a predefined speed.
  • 3 ⁇ 4 involves drying of the wet opened fabric on a Stenter at a predefined temperature followed by a heat setting above a glass transaction temperature of synthetic filament yarn for facilitating thermal stability of the dried fabric.
  • the heat setting temperature ranges from 170eC to 200eC. However, it depends upon the type of the synthetic filament and fibres used for the fabric. Further, the
  • thermal stability of the dried fabric reduces to -0.5% to 0%.
  • the fabric is subjected on a compacter to allow shrinkage in length and width of the fabric for providing permanent dimensions thereby providing a knitted fabric for workwear.
  • the process may comprise a step of applying chemical finish 3 ⁇ 4 through a padding mangle of the Stenter for imparting antimicrobial finishing to the fabric on a Stenter using antimicrobial and softening agents.
  • the antimicrobial agent is selected from a group including quaternary ammonium, metallic salts of Ag, Zn, Cu, Triclosan (2,4,4-hydrophenyl trichloro (II) ether), chitosan, and the like.
  • the present invention provides workwear fabric made from a knitted fabric, said work wear comprising a plated structure of first yarn on a face end and a second yarn on a back end of the fabric.
  • the said first is a vortex spun yarn and said second yarn is a synthetic filament yarn.
  • the said workwear fabric has a thickness in a range from about 160 GSM to about 450 GSM and the abrasion resistance more than 1,00,000 revolution which is five times more than conventional fabrics.
  • the vortex spun yarns comprises natural fibres 3 ⁇ 4 or a blend of 100% natural fibres and synthetic fibres comprising at least 45% synthetic fibres. Further, yarn count of vortex yarn varies from 24-40 " s Ne and yarn count of the synthetic filament yarn varies from 75 denier to 150 denier.
  • FIG. 1 is a loop diagram of plated structure of a knitted workwear fabric constructed in accordance with the present invention
  • FIG. 2A is a front view of a feeder mechanism adapted for positioning of a filament yarn and a vortex spun yarn during processing of the knitted workwear fabric;
  • FIG. 2B is a top view of the feeder mechanism of FIG. 2A.
  • provided herein is a process for preparation of a knitted workwear fabric.
  • a knitted workwear fabric in another aspect, provided herein is a knitted workwear fabric, and a process for preparation thereof in accordance with a preferred embodiment of the present invention.
  • the present invention provides a process for preparing a workwear fabric from a knitted fabric and a workwear fabric thereof.
  • the process for 3 ⁇ 4 preparing a workwear fabric includes generally steps of providing a knitted fabric made from a vortex spun yarn and synthetic filament yarn, followed by wet processing, washing, opening, drying, heat setting and finally compacting to prepare the knitted fabric for workwear having permanent dimensions.
  • the workwear fabric thus provided has a thickness in a range from about 160 GSM to about 450 GSM and the abrasion resistance more than 1,00,000 revolution which is five times more than conventional fabrics.
  • the vortex spun yarns comprises 100% natural fibres or a blend of natural fibres and synthetic fibres comprising at least 45% synthetic fibres.
  • yarn count of vortex yarn varies from 24-40 ⁇ s Ne and yarn count of the synthetic filament yarn varies from 75 denier to 150 denier.
  • the present invention provides a knitted workwear fabric.
  • the knitted fabric (100) comprises a first yarn (110) and a second yarn (120) knitted with a circular knitted plated structure.
  • the circular knitted plated structure matrix is formed by filament and vortex spun technology.
  • the first yarn (110) is a vortex spun yarn and the second yarn (120) is a filament yarn.
  • the vortex spun yarns comprises natural fibres or a blend of natural fibres and synthetic fibres comprising at least 45% synthetic fibres. Further, yarn count of vortex yarn varies from 24-40 " s Ne and yarn count of the synthetic filament yarn varies from 75 denier to 150 denier. It is
  • the filaments give dimensional stability, strength, and spun through vortex system gives high pilling resistance properties.
  • maximum strength at filament stage is achieved by having the filament structure in fabric with good dimensional stability, wherein the second yarn (120) is projected on back structure and the first yarn (110) is projected on face structure.
  • the combination of the first and the second yarn not only overcomes circular knitted structure lacuna but also reduces the GSM less than 230 with soft feel.
  • the filament yarn (120) is advantageously located on the back side of the fabric which gives dimensional stability and a stable structure to the knitted workwear fabric of the present invention.
  • T he vortex spun yarn (110) is advantageously located on front side which gives aesthetic look
  • FIG. 2 shows a two-feeder mechanism (200) for preparing a knitted fabric as shown in FIG 1.
  • a plated structure of the fabric (100) is formed using the two-feeder mechanism (200), wherein a loop and stitch arrangement is
  • the two- feeder mechanism 200 includes an upper hole (210) and a lower hole (220) such that the synthetic filament yarn (120) is passed through the upper hole (210) and
  • the spun yarn (110) is passed through the lower hole (220). Accordingly, the filament yarn (120) which is passed through the upper hole (210) forms a back side of the fabric (100) and the vortex spun yarn (110) which is passed through the lower hole (220) forms a face side of the fabric (100).
  • the synthetic filament yarn includes polyamide (nylon, nylon 66), polyester, acrylic and the like. According to the present invention, the filament yarn may be subjected to coloration at melt spinning stage in order to prevent the colour to come out during washing, rubbing, bleaching or exposure to sunlight thereby facilitating excellent fastness properties to washing, light, perspiration, water and bleach.
  • Next step is the wet processing step wherein the knitted fabric obtained in earlier step is subjected for removal of added impurities like spin oil, handling stain
  • the knitted fabric is subjected to scouring treatment in a soft flow machine wherein the knitted fabric is loaded in a rope form and subjected to scouring.
  • the knitted fabric in loop form is given a hot wash with water and lubricant at a temperature of 60eC for a time period of 10 minutes
  • H 2 0 2 removes the natural colour of cotton and makes the fabric brighter and absorbent.
  • the wet process may further include a step of dyeing the knitted fabric.
  • the fabric After wet processing, the fabric is subjected with a hot wash followed by acid neutralisation and cold wash that facilitates the fabric free from added as well as natural impurities thereby resulting into a more absorbent and clean fabric.
  • the washed knitted fabric is subjected to opening operation on a slitting machine to open width of the knitted fabric to process on next machine, wherein the si itti ng fabri c runs at a speed of 30 mtr/mi n.
  • the width opened knitted fabric which is wet is dried on a Stenter at a predefined temperature followed by heat setting above a glass transaction temperature of synthetic filament yarn for facilitating thermal stability of the dried fabric.
  • the drying temperature ranges from about 110eC to 130eC. It is
  • the dried and slit fabric is sent to a Stenter to open a width thereof.
  • the Stenter operates at a predefined temperature and for a time period of 30 seconds.
  • the Stenter not only dries the fabric but also makes the fabric thermally stable by giving heat treatment above the glass transaction temperature of synthetic filament yarn which is known as heat setting.
  • a chemical finish may be applied through a padding mangle of the
  • Stenter to facilitate antimicrobial finish followed by removal of skew and bow arrangement.
  • the chemicals are added into the padding mangle preferably when the fabric passes to the padding mangle such that the 3 ⁇ 4 fabric picks up the chemicals to have antimicrobial finish thereon.
  • the chemicals include a predefined amount of antimicrobial agent, a predefined amount of hydrophilic softener and a predefined amount of polyethylene softener.
  • the antimicrobial agent is present in an amount of 8 gm/lit.
  • the antimicrobial agent is selected from a group including quaternary ammonium, metallic salts of Ag, Zn, Cu, Triclosan (2,4,4-hydrophenyl trichloro (II) ether), chitosan, and the like.
  • the hydrophilic softener is present in an amount of 10 gm/lit.
  • the hydrophilic softeners are selected form polyethylene, polyurethane, silicon base hydrophilic softener, and the like.
  • the antimicrobial agent facilitates antimicrobial properties to the fabric.
  • the antimicrobial finish provides protection against microbes and avoids bad odour by killing harmful bacteria.
  • the durable antimicrobial finish is bacteriostatic and gently defensive. The durable antimicrobial neutralizes odour-
  • the durable antimicrobial finish advantageously immobilizes the bacteria by depleting oxygen, subsequently ruptures the bacterial cell membrane and destroys the reproductive receptor.
  • the hydrophilic softener facilitates absorbent properties to the fabric thereby enhancing soft hand feel.
  • polyethylene softener facilitates surface smoothness to the fabric.
  • the dried treated fabric then is sent to compacter to shrink in length as well as width of the fabric for providing permanent dimensions to the knitted fabric that can be used as workwear fabric.
  • the fabric is shrink in such a way that the shrinkage ratio reduces below -2.5%.
  • the vortex spun yarn and filament yarn advantageously form a matrix that gives substantially good capillary properties to the knitted workwear fabric thereby acting as an advance moisture management system.
  • the fabric of the present invention is advantageously suitable for active as well as passive wear, which is prime requirement of workwear garment.
  • the knitted workwear fabric of the present invention has a high pilling resistance, greater abrasion and high crease recovery angle properties due to the structure without any chemical treatment.
  • the knitted workwear fabric has high level of abrasion, pilling resistance, light and wash fastness, breathability, dimensional stability, and crease recovery without chemical treatment.
  • the knitted workwear fabric of the present invention is more durable and comfortable compared to any knitted and woven fabric of similar weight range.
  • the knitted workwear fabric of the present invention is breathable thereby having air permeability and moisture permeability
  • the knitted workwear fabric of the present invention has very high light and wash colour fastness.
  • the knitted workwear fabric of the present invention has a substantially high dimensional stability.
  • the present invention provides a workwear fabric which not only meets functional properties
  • the knitted workwear fabric of the present invention has tested as per ASTM E- 96-05 and found having a very high moisture vapour transmission rate (MVTR) which is observed to be 2585.5 gm/M2/Day in comparison to commercially 3 ⁇ 4 available workwear cloth which have MVTR 1200 to 1500 gm/M 2 /Day.
  • the knitted workwear fabric of the present invention has also tested for a very high abrasion resistance, and the results proved that the knitted workwear fabric has abrasion resistance more than 100000 Revolution which is at I east five times more than in comparison to commercially available workwear clothing which have abrasion resistance in a range of 20000 to 60000.
  • Test results of one of the non- limiting composition of the workwear knitted fabric is given in Example 1 below: E xample 1 :
  • a workwear knitted fabric was prepared by a process as per the invention disclosed and claimed herein.
  • the Y arn count of poly/cotton vortex spun yarn of the fabric was 30 " s Ne having by weight 85% polyester fibers and 15% cotton while polyester yarn of 100 denier was used as synthetic filament yarn for preparing the workwear knitted fabric.
  • the workwear fabric had weight 210 GSM.
  • the fabric was tested under various standards defined for workwear fabric, and the test result are given in the table 1 below:

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un tissu tricoté pour vêtement de travail et son procédé de fabrication. Le tissu tricoté pour vêtement de travail se compose d'un fil filé en tourbillon et d'un fil continu, tricotés sous la forme d'une structure tricotée guipée. La présente invention concerne également un procédé pour la fabrication du tissu tricoté pour vêtement de travail. Le tissu tricoté pour vêtement de travail de la présente invention offre une stabilité dimensionnelle et des propriétés de résistance au boulochage élevées. Le tissu de la présente invention est léger, présente une excellente résistance à l'abrasion, au lavage et à la lumière et constitue un tissu très durable.
PCT/IN2018/050055 2017-02-04 2018-02-02 Tissu tricoté pour vêtement de travail et son procédé de fabrication WO2018142427A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IN201721004128 2017-02-04
IN201721004128 2017-02-04

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2018142427A1 true WO2018142427A1 (fr) 2018-08-09

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110804796A (zh) * 2019-10-31 2020-02-18 常州旭荣针织印染有限公司 防撞色涤/氨针织面料及其染整方法
WO2021008016A1 (fr) * 2019-07-12 2021-01-21 浙江蓝天海纺织服饰科技有限公司 Tissu à séchage rapide sans égouttement de fusion

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB782438A (en) * 1955-01-08 1957-09-04 British Nylon Spinners Ltd Plated knitted fabrics
CA2526037C (fr) * 2003-06-02 2012-04-03 Graham Laycock Procede de fabrication d'un tricot circulaire elastique comprenant des fils de spandex et des fils non elastiques
EP3109354A1 (fr) * 2015-06-17 2016-12-28 Shei Chung Hsin Ind. Co., Ltd. Tissu pour expulser la sueur

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB782438A (en) * 1955-01-08 1957-09-04 British Nylon Spinners Ltd Plated knitted fabrics
CA2526037C (fr) * 2003-06-02 2012-04-03 Graham Laycock Procede de fabrication d'un tricot circulaire elastique comprenant des fils de spandex et des fils non elastiques
EP3109354A1 (fr) * 2015-06-17 2016-12-28 Shei Chung Hsin Ind. Co., Ltd. Tissu pour expulser la sueur

Non-Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
ANONYMOUS: "FLOW CHART OF KNIT FINISHING PROCESS", TEXTILE LEARNER, 18 March 2012 (2012-03-18), XP055534845, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/03/flow-chart-of-knit-finishing-process.html> [retrieved on 20180312] *
JHANJI ET AL.: "Comfort properties of plated knitted fabrics with varying fibre type", INDIAN JOURNAL OF FIBRE & TEXTILE RESEARCH, vol. 40, no. 1, 31 March 2015 (2015-03-31), pages 11 - 18, XP055534848 *
RANA SOHEL: "FLOW CHART OF TEXTILE WET PROCESSING FOR KNIT FABRIC", TEXTILE FLOWCHART, 8 June 2015 (2015-06-08), XP055534852, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://www.textileflowchart.com/2015/06/flow-chart-of-textile-wet-processing.html> [retrieved on 20180312] *

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2021008016A1 (fr) * 2019-07-12 2021-01-21 浙江蓝天海纺织服饰科技有限公司 Tissu à séchage rapide sans égouttement de fusion
CN110804796A (zh) * 2019-10-31 2020-02-18 常州旭荣针织印染有限公司 防撞色涤/氨针织面料及其染整方法

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