WO2018122165A1

WO2018122165A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a dispersion of oil in a gelled aqueous phase

Info

Publication number: WO2018122165A1
Application number: PCT/EP2017/084377
Authority: WO
Inventors: Nathalie Jager Lezer; Fabrice SPRINGINSFELD
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2016-12-27
Filing date: 2017-12-22
Publication date: 2018-07-05
Also published as: FR3061003A1; FR3061003B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a dispersion of a non-gelled oily phase comprising at least one silicone oil, at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil or at least a mixture thereof, in a gelled aqueous phase, said aqueous phase comprising at least scleroglucan gum in a content of greater than 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition being free of surfactant and free of Pickering particles. The invention also relates to the use of a scleroglucan gum for forming a cosmetic composition comprising a dispersion of a non-gelled oily phase comprising at least one silicone oil, at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil or at least a mixture thereof, in a gelled aqueous phase, in the absence of surfactant and in the absence of Pickering particles, said aqueous phase comprising at least scleroglucan gum in a content of greater than 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and also to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least one step which consists in applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A DISPERSION OF OIL IN A GELLED

AQUEOUS PHASE

The present invention is directed toward proposing for the field of caring for and/or making up keratin materials, especially the skin and/or the lips, and in particular the skin, a novel presentation form that is most particularly advantageous with regard to its technical performance and the sensations it affords the user during its application to said keratin materials, in particular to the skin.

The term "keratin materials" especially means the skin, the lips and/or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and preferably the skin.

Cosmetic compositions, especially foundations, are commonly used to give the skin an esthetic color, but also to hide and/or unify imperfections of the skin relief such as wrinkles and/or fine lines and/or scars. In this regard, many solid or fluid, anhydrous or non- anhydrous formulations have been developed to date, namely fluids, creams, compacts, loose powders or sticks.

In the cosmetic field, it is conventional to formulate oil- in- water (O/W) or water- in-oil (W/O) emulsions. These emulsions are most particularly advantageous for their sensory properties. However, these cosmetic emulsions are, generally, stabilized with surfactants that can be an impediment in certain applications.

Specifically, surfactants, in particular as emulsifiers, may affect the cosmeticity of products and the powdery nature of the deposit, which is greatly appreciated by consumers. In particular, in the case of antiperspirants, the presence of aluminum salts limits the use of a broad family of surfactants on account of their ionic nature. These surfactants are also liable to produce certain negative effects, such as a tacky, slippery or soapy effect.

The present invention relates more particularly to the field of cosmetic presentation formulations comprising a gelled aqueous phase comprising a dispersion of oily phase, which are free of surfactants and also free of solid particles intended for stabilizing, or Pickering particles, as defined below.

Moreover, besides the desired stabilized aspect, consumers wish to use cosmetic compositions that have pleasant sensory properties on application. In particular, among the sensory properties targeted in the context of the present invention, sensory properties and textures close to those of sera are appreciated. Thus, a translucent appearance is particularly sought. Furthermore, among the sensory properties targeted, mention may be made of the fresh effect, a soft, dry feel, and a non-wetting effect. Finally, in the particular case of antiperspirant compositions, reducing the detrimental effect often observed in the presence of antiperspirant active agents such as an aluminum salt, namely the tacky effect, is also sought.

A need thus remains for stable oil dispersions, which simultaneously have advantageous sensory properties, especially such as a fresh-effect sensory property, a dry- effect sensory property and/or a non- wetting-effect sensory property, and also a non-tacky sensory property in the presence of an antiperspirant active agent and most particularly of an aluminum salt, while at the same time being friendly to keratin materials and, in this respect, being free of surfactants.

A need also remains for an alternative to Pickering-type emulsions.

A "Pickering"-type emulsion is an emulsion comprising a continuous phase and a phase dispersed in said continuous phase; said phases being immiscible, and said emulsion being stabilized with solid particles adsorbed at the interface of the two immiscible phases, which are referred to as "Pickering particles" in the rest of the description, without it being necessary to use emulsifying surfactants.

Once positioned at the interface, the solid particles "block" the dispersed phase, which leads to stabilization of the emulsion. The emulsion thus formed is stable for several weeks.

Thus, it has been proposed to use scleroglucan gum to manufacture such dispersions of oil in an aqueous gel.

The inventors have recently found, surprisingly, that the use of a scleroglucan gum can give a dispersion of oil in an aqueous gel stability and sensory properties never before obtained, namely dry-effect, fresh-effect and/or non-wetting-effect sensations, and also a non-tacky sensory property in the presence of an antiperspirant active agent and most particularly of an aluminum salt.

Thus, one subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising a dispersion of a non-gelled oily phase comprising at least one silicone oil, at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil or at least a mixture thereof, in a gelled aqueous phase, said aqueous phase comprising at least scleroglucan gum in a content of greater than 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition being free of surfactant and of Pickering particles.

According to one implementation variant, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.

A subject of the present invention is also the use of a scleroglucan gum to form a dispersion of a non-gelled oily phase comprising at least one silicone oil, at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil or at least a mixture thereof, in a gelled aqueous phase, in the absence of surfactant and in the absence of Pickering particles.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step that consists in applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined previously.

The term "free of surfactant or in the absence of surfactant" means containing less than 1.00% by weight, preferably less than 0.50% by weight and better still less than 0.10% by weight of surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even being totally free of surfactant.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "surfactant" means an amphiphilic molecule, i.e. a molecule that has two parts of different polarity, one being lipophilic (which retains fatty substances) and apolar, and the other hydrophilic (water- miscible) and polar.

Surfactants are characterized by their HLB (hydrophilic- lipophilic balance) value, the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For emulsifiers, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O/W emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined via the Griffin method or the Davies method.

"Pickering particles" are well known to a person skilled in the art who is familiar with the use of these particles, which may vary in shapes and sizes. Said particles may be chosen in particular according to their ability to position themselves at the W/O interfaces, i.e. their ability to be wetted with water and with oil. Moreover, they are characterized by a size of less than 40 μηι.

The wettability as indicated above may be measured according to the test indicated below.

Test for selecting Pickering particles, which have stabilizing action on the oil- water interface to give oil- in- water Pickering emulsions:

The test is performed at room temperature (21°C).

49 g of water, 49 g of oil and 2 g of particles are weighed out. The three ingredients are mixed in a hermetically closed container. Stirring is performed manually (to- and- fro) for 1 minute. Three phases are observed with the naked eye: the oil above, the intermediate Pickering emulsion, and the water below. The particles adopted according to the invention are those that are capable of stabilizing at least 10% of the initial amount of oil 8 hours after preparation. This is the case especially for synthetic magnesium phyllo silicates and PMMA particles as described below especially under the respective names Sepimat H10 and Finesil.

When pronounced coalescence and/or complete separation of the two phases (oil and water) is observed with particles present either in the oil or in the water, these particles are not qualified as Pickering particles. This is especially the case for perlite, talc, nylon powders and methyl silsesquioxane resin microbeads.

Thus, the fillers conventionally contained in cosmetic compositions, such as nylon, do not feature among Pickering particles.

As such Pickering particles, mention may be made in particular of organic or inorganic particles. Among these Pickering particles, mention may be made of particles chosen from organic particles, such as polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) particles and inorganic particles such as magnesium silicate, synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate particles, and mixtures thereof.

The term "free of Pickering particles or in the absence of Pickering particles" means containing less than 1.00% by weight, preferably less than 0.50% by weight and better still less than 0.10% by weight of Pickering particles, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even being totally free of such Pickering particles. The term "non-gelled" oily phase means that the oily phase does not comprise any oily-phase gelling agent and/or thickener.

EVALUATION OF THE SENSORY PROPERTIES

The improved sensory properties of the compositions according to the present invention are evaluated according to the following protocols.

Dry effect: the dry effect of the product is evaluated after drying, by passing a finger over the deposit obtained.

Fresh effect: the fresh effect of the product is evaluated on application and during drying.

Non-wetting effect: The non-wetting effect of the product is evaluated on application (spreading) and as a function of the drying time.

Non-tacky effect, when the composition comprises an antiperspirant agent, in particular at least one aluminum salt.

An amount of 0.12 g of product on an area of 28 cm² on the forearm is applied by finger. After 10 rotations, the product is left to dry. The scales for measuring the various sensory effects are graduated on five levels:

SCLEROGLUCAN GUM

A composition according to the present invention comprises scleroglucan gum.

Scleroglucan gum may be obtained via the fermentation action of the filamentous fungus Sclerotium rolfsii on a glucose-based substrate. The mixture is purified with alcohol (ethanol or isopropanol), pressed, dried and ground. The powder thus obtained may optionally be sterilized by irradiation or by high pressure. Scleroglucan gum is a homopolysaccharide of very high molecular mass, hydrolysis of which gives only glucoses.

The main chain is constituted of β (l-3)-linked β-D-glucoses. One in three glucose residues bears a β (l-6)-linked β-D-glucose, which prevents aggregation of the chains. Scleroglucan gum is also known as sclerotium gum or scleroglucan. Scleroglucan gum is commercially available and is sold especially under the name Actigum CS by the company Sanofi Bio Industries, and in particular Actigum CS 11, and under the names Amigel, Amigum and Amigel Granule by the company Alban Muller International, or alternatively under the name Tinoderm SG-L by the BASF group.

This scleroglucan gum may optionally be modified, in particular via enzymatic treatments or by using modified strains. However, in a preferred embodiment, the scleroglucan gum is not modified.

The composition according to the present invention comprises scleroglucan gum in a content of between 0.6% and 3%, in particular between 0.8% and 2% and even more particularly between 0.9% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM

As presented above, a composition according to the invention may advantageously be a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

In this particular embodiment, since a composition according to the invention is intended for topical application to keratin materials, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with the skin and/or the nails.

Thus, the physiologically acceptable medium is in particular a cosmetically or dermato logically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that has no unpleasant odor, color or appearance, and that does not cause the user any unacceptable stinging, tautness or redness.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50%) by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure). The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C₃ and C₄ ketones and C₂-C₄ aldehydes.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 80% by weight and preferably from 30% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to another embodiment variant, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C₂-C₃₂ polyol.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.

The polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those especially containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 -propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof. According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention may comprise at least propylene glycol.

According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.

OILY PHASE

For the purposes of the invention, an oily phase is dispersed in a gelled aqueous phase. It includes all liquid fatty substances, generally oils (also known as liquid fatty phase). In other words, for the purposes of the invention, an oily phase is also referred to as a liquid fatty phase and comprises at least one oil.

The oily phase is advantageously non-gelled.

In the context of the present invention, the oily phase may also comprise pasty compounds, in contents which allow the fatty phase to remain in liquid form.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is free of wax.

The term "free of wax" means containing less than 1.00% by weight, preferably less than 0.50%> by weight and better still less than 0.10%> by weight of wax, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even being totally free of wax.

The term "oil" means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (21°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

In the context of the present invention, the oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil, at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil or at least a mixture thereof, which is preferably nonvolatile.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is free of fluoro oil.

The term "free of fluoro oil" means containing less than 1.00% by weight, preferably less than 0.50%> by weight and better still less than 0.10% by weight of fluoro oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even being totally free of fluoro oil.

The term "nonvolatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is nonzero and is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10^"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a total content of at least one silicone oil, at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil or at least a mixture thereof of between 1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 2% and 20%> by weight, preferably between 5% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the set of oils chosen from a silicone oil, an apolar hydrocarbon-based oil and a mixture thereof, and scleroglucan gum, are used in the composition according to the invention in an oil(s)/scleroglucan gum weight ratio of between 1.4 and 30, preferably between 1.6 and 15.

By way of example, and as will emerge on reading the examples, a composition according to the present invention may typically comprise scleroglucan gum in a content ranging between 1% and 3% by weight and allow the stabilized dispersion of an oily phase whose content ranges advantageously between 1% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonvolatile silicone oil

According to a first particular embodiment, the oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil.

The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one Si atom. The nonvolatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen especially from silicone oils especially with a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10^"6 m²/s) and less than 800 000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600 000 cSt and preferably between 100 and 500 000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone may be measured according to standard ASTM D-445.

According to a particular embodiment, the nonvolatile silicone oil is a non- phenyl silicone oil.

The nonvolatile non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from:

- nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs),

- PDMSs comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are on the side and/or at the ends of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, - PDMSs comprising aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,

- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes,

- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,

- polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one non-phenyl silicone oil, in particular such as a linear (i.e. noncyclic) oil.

Representative examples of these nonvolatile non-phenyl linear silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

The non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen especially from the silicones of formula (I):

(I)

in which:

Ri, R₂, R₅ and Re are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃ and R₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,

n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25°C is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10^"6 m²/s) and 800 000 cSt. As nonvolatile silicone oil that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (I) for which:

- the substituents Ri to Re and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by the company Dow Corning,

- the substituents Ri to Re and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200

Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000 by the company Wacker,

- the substituents Ri to Re and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning,

- the substituents Ri to Re represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid TO.7 by the company Momentive. According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil.

Representative examples of these nonvolatile phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned include:

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

R R R

I I I

R Si O Si O Si R

I I I

R R R (II) in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described previously may be used. Mention may be made, for example, of mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organopolysiloxane.

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

Ph Ph Ph

/ / /

Me Si O Si O Si Me

\ \ \

Ph Me Ph ^_JJJ^

in which Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl. Such a phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: l,3,5-trimethyl-l,l,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid may also be used.

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:

in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents -CH₂- CH(CH₃)(Ph). the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below:

Me Me OR^*

I I I

Me— Si- -Si 0— Si— o - Si(CFL 3)3

I I I

Me Me Ph

(V)

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group -OSiMe₃ and y is 0 or ranges between 1 and 1000, and z ranges between 1 and 1000, such that compound (V) is a nonvolatile oil.

According to one particular embodiment, y ranges between 1 and 1000. Use may be made, for example, of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold especially under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker.

According to another embodiment, y is equal to 0. Use may be made, for example, of phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold especially under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

- Ri to Ri o, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 -C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.

Preferably, the sum "m+n+p+q" is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum "m+n+q" is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0. - the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VII) below, and mixtures thereof:

(VII) in which:

- Ri to Re, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, Ri to R5, independently of each other, represent a saturated, linear or branched C1-C30 and especially C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical.

Ri to Re may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.

Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n = 0 and/or p = 0 or 1 may apply in formula

(VII).

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII), and mixtures thereof:

m which:

R is a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and - m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m ranges from 1 to 100.

In particular, the radicals R of formula (VIII) and Ri to Rio defined previously may each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, especially a C2-C20, in particular C3-C16 and more particularly C4-C10 alkyl radical, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C₆-Ci4 and especially C10-C13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical whose aryl and alkyl residues are as defined previously.

Preferably, R of formula (VIII) and Ri to Rio may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

According to one embodiment, use may be made of a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1500 mm²/s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm²/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt).

As phenyl silicone oils, use may especially be made of the phenyl trimethicones of formula (VIII), such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), the oil Silbione 70663 V30 from Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt) or diphenyl dimethicones such as Belsil oils, especially Belsil PDMIOOO (1000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker. The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C.

- the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof:

(IX)

in which:

Ri, R₂, R5 and Re are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R3 and R₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.

The phenyl silicones are more particularly chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the phenyl silicones are more particularly chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil according to the invention ranges from 500 to 10 000 g/mol.

As preferred nonvolatile silicone oils, examples that may be mentioned include silicone oils such as:

- phenyl silicones (also known as phenyl silicone oil) such as trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (for instance Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (MW = 9000 g/mol), (cf. formula (V) above), phenyl trimethicones (such as the phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, dipheny lmethyldipheny ltrisilo xanes , 2-phenylethyl trimethylsilo xysilicates , trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane (such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning PH- 1555 HRI Cosmetic fluid by Dow Corning) (cf. formula (III) above),

- nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) in particular such as those sold under the name Element 14 PDMS 10-A by the company Naturochim, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are on the side and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,

- and mixtures thereof. Apolar hydrocarbon-based oil

According to a third embodiment, the oily phase comprises at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil, which again is preferably nonvolatile. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 5_a, is equal to 0 (J/cm³)^½.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three- dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: The three- dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- 5D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- δ_ρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- 5h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor interaction forces, etc.); and

- δα is determined by the equation: δ_α = (δ_ρ ² + 5h²)^½.

The parameters δ_ρ, 5h, 5D and 5_a are expressed as (J/cm³)^½.

Preferably, the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is free of oxygen atoms. Preferably, the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:

- liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,

- liquid petroleum jelly,

- naphthalene oil,

- polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,

- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam^® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1000 g/mol),

- decene/butene copolymers and polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14, - polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,

- and mixtures thereof.

Volatile oils

The oily phase may also comprise at least one volatile oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile organic solvent(s) and the volatile oils of the invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, having a nonzero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10^~3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is an apolar oil.

The apolar volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may have a flash point ranging from 40°C to 102°C, preferably ranging from 40°C to 55°C and preferentially ranging from 40°C to 50°C.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen especially from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and especially:

- branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, such as Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names,

- linear alkanes, for instance n-dodecane (CI 2) and n-tetradecane (CI 4) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (CI 1) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and especially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is free of volatile oil.

Pasty compound

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from:

lanolin and derivatives thereof,

polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,

vinyl polymers, especially:

olefin homopolymers,

- olefin copolymers,

hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,

linear or branched homopolymer or copolymer oligomers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably bearing a C8-C30 alkyl group,

homopolymer and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters bearing C8-C30 alkyl groups,

homopolymer and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers bearing C8-C30 alkyl groups,

liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols,

- esters,

polyvinyl laurate; and

mixtures thereof.

As a guide, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10%), better still from 0.5%> to 5%, better from 0.6%> to 3% by weight of pasty compound(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the oily phase comprises silicone oils, in particular nonvolatile silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes, for instance PDMS 10 cSt. ADDITIVES

The compositions according to the invention may, in addition, also comprise additional cosmetic and dermatological active agents.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from opacifiers, stabilizers, preserving agents, polymers, fragrances, aqueous-phase thickeners or gelling agents other than scleroglucan gum, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents, fillers, suspension agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.

It is a matter of routine operation for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not thereby affected.

COMPOSITION

The compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art.

For the preparation of the compositions according to the present invention, it is especially possible to proceed according to the following steps:

(i) addition to the scleroglucan gum, at room temperature (21°C), of the oily phase, and then

(ii) emulsification at room temperature, for example using a speedmixer or an

Ultra-Turrax blender.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be used, for example, as makeup products for keratin materials, such as facial and/or bodily skin, and/or the nails.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be used, for example, as care, cleansing and/or sun protection products for facial and/or bodily skin and/or for the nails, of liquid to semiliquid consistency, such as milks, creams of varying smoothness, cream gels or pastes.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition is free of hydrophobic active agent or hydrophobic adjuvant. By « hydrophobic active agents » or « hydrophobic adjuvant" is meant active compounds and adjuvants containing hydrophobic moieties. According to another particular form of the invention, the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one deodorant active agent and/or at least one antiperspirant active agent.

The term "deodorant active agent" refers to any substance that is capable of masking, absorbing, improving and/or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.

The deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odor microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (©Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (©Triclocarban) or 3,7,11 -trimethyldodeca- 2,5,10-trienol (©Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; polyols such as those of glycerol type, 1,3-propanediol (Zemea Propanediol® sold by DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products), 1,2-decanediol (SymClariol® from the company Symrise); glycerol derivatives, for instance caprylic/capric glycerides (Capmul MCM® from Abitec), glyceryl caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY® and Dermosoft GMC®, respectively from Straetmans), Polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC® from Straetmans); biguanide derivatives, for instance polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and salts thereof; 4-phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (Symdeo MPP® from Symrise); cyclodextrins; chelating agents such as Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (CAS #51981-21-6) sold under the trade name Dissolvine GL-47-S® from AkzoNobel, EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) and DPTA (1,3- diaminopropanetetraacetic acid).

Among the deodorant active agents in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of:

- zinc salts, such as zinc salicylate, zinc phenolsulfonate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (more commonly known as zinc pidolate), zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc ricinoleate, zinc glycinate, zinc carbonate, zinc citrate, zinc chloride, zinc laurate, zinc oleate, zinc orthophosphate, zinc stearate, zinc tartrate, zinc acetate or mixtures thereof;

- odor absorbers such as zeolites, especially silver-free metal zeolites, cyclodextrins, metal oxide silicates such as those described in patent application US 2005/063 928; metal oxide particles modified with a transition metal, as described in patent applications US 2005/084 464 and US 2005/084 474, alumino silicates such as those described in patent application EP 1 658 863, chitosan-based particles such as those described in patent US 6 916 465;

- sodium bicarbonate;

- salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid;

- alum;

- triethyl citrate;

- and mixtures thereof.

The deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight proportions ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "antiperspirant active agent" means a salt which, by itself, has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat, of reducing the sensation on the skin of moisture associated with human sweat or of masking human sweat.

Among the antiperspirant active agents, mention may be made of the antiperspirant salts or complexes of aluminum and/or of zirconium, preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates, aluminum zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxy chloride and of aluminum hydroxy chloride with or without an amino acid, such as those described in patent US-3 792 068.

Among the aluminum salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or unactivated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, the aluminum chlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum chlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, the aluminum dichlorohydrex-poly ethylene glycol complex, the aluminum dichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminum sulfate buffered with sodium aluminum lactate.

Among the aluminum zirconium salts, mention may be made in particular of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.

The complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products, mention may be made of the aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, the aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, the aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-glycine complexes and the aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex-glycine complexes.

Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate is in particular sold under the trade name Reach

301® by the company Summitreheis.

Among the aluminum and zirconium complexes, mention may be made of the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid such as glycine, having the INCI name: Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex Gly, for example the product sold under the name Reach AZP-908-SUF® by the company Summitreheis.

Use will more particularly be made of the aluminum chlorohydrate sold under the trade names Locron S FLA®, Locron P and Locron L.ZA by the company Clariant; under the trade names Microdry Aluminum Chlorohydrate®, Micro-Dry 323®, Chlorhydrol 50, Reach 103 and Reach 501 by the company Summitreheis; under the trade name Westchlor 200® by the company Westwood; under the trade name Aloxicoll PF 40® by the company Guilini Chemie; Cluron 50%® by the company Industria Quimica Del Centro; or Clorohidroxido Aluminio SO A 50%® by the company Finquimica.

These fillers are not antiperspirant active agents.

The antiperspirant active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of from 0.001% to 30% by weight, and preferably in a proportion of from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of an antiperspirant or deodorant composition.

It may also be in the form of a makeup composition for the skin and especially for the face, for example in the form of a foundation, a liquid lipstick, an eyeshadow, a blusher, a concealer or a care gel.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified. The expressions "between... and..." and "ranging from... to..." should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.

In the description and the examples, the percentages are percentages by weight. The ingredients are mixed in the order and under conditions that are readily determined by a person skilled in the art.

EXAMPLES

Throughout the examples that follow, the methods indicated in the description are used to evaluate the sensory properties such as the dry effect, the fresh effect, the non- wetting effect and the non-tacky effect.

The values present in the tables that follow represent the contents of the ingredients as mass percentages.

Example 1: Antiperspirant compositions

Procedure

The compositions are prepared according to the following steps:

(i) formulation of scleroglucan gel at room temperature,

(ii) addition of the oily phase,

(iii) emulsification at room temperature either with a speedmixer or with an Ultra-Turrax blender at 9600 rpm, and then

(iv) addition of the preserving agent.

Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3

Composition

(according to the (according to the (according to the INCI name

invention) invention) invention)

Water 67.7 63.3 38.3

Scleroglucan gum

(Amigel Granule) 0.6 1 1

Alban Muller

Phenoxyethanol

(Neolone PH 100 0.7 0.7 0.7

Preservative) SEPPIC

Aluminum

chlorohydrate

30 (15% AM) 30 (15% AM) 30 (15% AM) (Chlorhydrol 50)

SummitReheis

PDMS

(Elements PDMS 10-

1 5 30

A)

Naturochim

Stability T24H OK OK OK

Stability T2M NTR NTR Slight leaching

Wetting: 2

Wetting: 2.5 Wetting: 2.5

Sensory evaluation (n Tack: 4

Tack: 2 Tack: 2 = 5 persons) (+ :5 / - sparingly white,

transparent, soft, transparent, soft, : 1) coarse, tensioning,

light finish light finish dry finish

% AM means the percentage of active material.

The qualifier "coarse" is useful since it is linked to the dry perception under the

All the above compositions have, besides advantageous results in terms of stability, sensory properties such as a non-wetting effect and a non-tacky effect. Compositions 2 and 3 also have a soft feel on the skin, and also a sensation of lightness, which is similar to the sensations on application of sera. Example 2: Compositions

The compositions are prepared according to the same procedure as that described in Example 1.

These two compositions have the desired sensory properties and in particular a non- wetting effect and a non-tacky effect, and also a fresh effect for composition 4. Example 3: Comparative compositions

The following compositions were prepared for comparative purposes.

It is found that these comparative compositions, which contain isopropyl palmitate as polar oil, are unstable.

Example 4: Comparative compositions

In the preceding examples, the minimal required content of scleroglucan gum is not reproduced. It is found that the stability is not satisfying as far as oil release is observed which does not fit with the sensory properties and textures targeted by the present invention.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising a dispersion of a non-gelled oily phase comprising at least one silicone oil, at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil or at least a mixture thereof, in a gelled aqueous phase, said aqueous phase comprising at least scleroglucan gum in a content of greater than 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition being free of surfactant and free of Pickering particles.

2. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the scleroglucan gum is between 0.6%> and 3%>, in particular between 0.8%> and 2%> and most particularly between 0.9% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises a total content of at least one silicone oil, at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil or at least a mixture thereof of between 1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 2% and 20%) by weight, preferably between 5%> and 15%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the set of oils chosen from a silicone oil, an apolar hydrocarbon-based oil and a mixture thereof, and scleroglucan gum, are used in the composition according to the invention in an oil(s)/scleroglucan gum weight ratio of between 1.4 and 30, preferably between 1.6 and 15.

5. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil, chosen especially from nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), PDMSs comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are on the side and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, PDMSs comprising aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

6. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the oily phase comprises at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil chosen especially from liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, liquid petroleum jelly, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.

7. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, which is in the form of an antiperspirant or deodorant composition.

8. The use of a scleroglucan gum for forming a cosmetic composition comprising a dispersion of a non-gelled oily phase comprising at least one silicone oil, at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil or at least a mixture thereof, in a gelled aqueous phase, in the absence of surfactant and in the absence of Pickering particles, said aqueous phase comprising at least scleroglucan gum in a content of greater than 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step which consists in applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 7.