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WO2018122165A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant une dispersion d'huile dans une phase aqueuse gélifiée - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant une dispersion d'huile dans une phase aqueuse gélifiée Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018122165A1
WO2018122165A1 PCT/EP2017/084377 EP2017084377W WO2018122165A1 WO 2018122165 A1 WO2018122165 A1 WO 2018122165A1 EP 2017084377 W EP2017084377 W EP 2017084377W WO 2018122165 A1 WO2018122165 A1 WO 2018122165A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
oil
weight
cosmetic composition
aqueous phase
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2017/084377
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Nathalie Jager Lezer
Fabrice SPRINGINSFELD
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication of WO2018122165A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018122165A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26—Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers

Definitions

  • the present invention is directed toward proposing for the field of caring for and/or making up keratin materials, especially the skin and/or the lips, and in particular the skin, a novel presentation form that is most particularly advantageous with regard to its technical performance and the sensations it affords the user during its application to said keratin materials, in particular to the skin.
  • keratin materials especially means the skin, the lips and/or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and/or the lips, and preferably the skin.
  • Cosmetic compositions are commonly used to give the skin an esthetic color, but also to hide and/or unify imperfections of the skin relief such as wrinkles and/or fine lines and/or scars.
  • many solid or fluid, anhydrous or non- anhydrous formulations have been developed to date, namely fluids, creams, compacts, loose powders or sticks.
  • oil- in- water (O/W) or water- in-oil (W/O) emulsions are most particularly advantageous for their sensory properties.
  • these cosmetic emulsions are, generally, stabilized with surfactants that can be an impediment in certain applications.
  • surfactants in particular as emulsifiers, may affect the cosmeticity of products and the powdery nature of the deposit, which is greatly appreciated by consumers.
  • the presence of aluminum salts limits the use of a broad family of surfactants on account of their ionic nature.
  • surfactants are also liable to produce certain negative effects, such as a tacky, slippery or soapy effect.
  • the present invention relates more particularly to the field of cosmetic presentation formulations comprising a gelled aqueous phase comprising a dispersion of oily phase, which are free of surfactants and also free of solid particles intended for stabilizing, or Pickering particles, as defined below.
  • cosmetic compositions that have pleasant sensory properties on application.
  • sensory properties targeted in the context of the present invention sensory properties and textures close to those of sera are appreciated.
  • a translucent appearance is particularly sought.
  • antiperspirant compositions reducing the detrimental effect often observed in the presence of antiperspirant active agents such as an aluminum salt, namely the tacky effect, is also sought.
  • a “Pickering"-type emulsion is an emulsion comprising a continuous phase and a phase dispersed in said continuous phase; said phases being immiscible, and said emulsion being stabilized with solid particles adsorbed at the interface of the two immiscible phases, which are referred to as “Pickering particles" in the rest of the description, without it being necessary to use emulsifying surfactants.
  • the solid particles Once positioned at the interface, the solid particles "block" the dispersed phase, which leads to stabilization of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion thus formed is stable for several weeks.
  • a scleroglucan gum can give a dispersion of oil in an aqueous gel stability and sensory properties never before obtained, namely dry-effect, fresh-effect and/or non-wetting-effect sensations, and also a non-tacky sensory property in the presence of an antiperspirant active agent and most particularly of an aluminum salt.
  • one subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a dispersion of a non-gelled oily phase comprising at least one silicone oil, at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil or at least a mixture thereof, in a gelled aqueous phase, said aqueous phase comprising at least scleroglucan gum in a content of greater than 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition being free of surfactant and of Pickering particles.
  • the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the use of a scleroglucan gum to form a dispersion of a non-gelled oily phase comprising at least one silicone oil, at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil or at least a mixture thereof, in a gelled aqueous phase, in the absence of surfactant and in the absence of Pickering particles.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step that consists in applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined previously.
  • free of surfactant or in the absence of surfactant means containing less than 1.00% by weight, preferably less than 0.50% by weight and better still less than 0.10% by weight of surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even being totally free of surfactant.
  • surfactant means an amphiphilic molecule, i.e. a molecule that has two parts of different polarity, one being lipophilic (which retains fatty substances) and apolar, and the other hydrophilic (water- miscible) and polar.
  • HLB hydrophilic- lipophilic balance
  • the term "HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).
  • HLB hydrophilic- lipophilic balance
  • the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O/W emulsions.
  • the HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined via the Griffin method or the Davies method.
  • “Pickering particles” are well known to a person skilled in the art who is familiar with the use of these particles, which may vary in shapes and sizes. Said particles may be chosen in particular according to their ability to position themselves at the W/O interfaces, i.e. their ability to be wetted with water and with oil. Moreover, they are characterized by a size of less than 40 ⁇ .
  • the wettability as indicated above may be measured according to the test indicated below.
  • the test is performed at room temperature (21°C).
  • the particles adopted according to the invention are those that are capable of stabilizing at least 10% of the initial amount of oil 8 hours after preparation. This is the case especially for synthetic magnesium phyllo silicates and PMMA particles as described below especially under the respective names Sepimat H10 and Finesil.
  • the fillers conventionally contained in cosmetic compositions, such as nylon, do not feature among Pickering particles.
  • Pickering particles mention may be made in particular of organic or inorganic particles.
  • organic particles such as polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) particles and inorganic particles such as magnesium silicate, synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate particles, and mixtures thereof.
  • PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
  • inorganic particles such as magnesium silicate, synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate particles, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-gelled oily phase means that the oily phase does not comprise any oily-phase gelling agent and/or thickener.
  • compositions according to the present invention are evaluated according to the following protocols.
  • Dry effect the dry effect of the product is evaluated after drying, by passing a finger over the deposit obtained.
  • Fresh effect the fresh effect of the product is evaluated on application and during drying.
  • Non-wetting effect The non-wetting effect of the product is evaluated on application (spreading) and as a function of the drying time.
  • Non-tacky effect when the composition comprises an antiperspirant agent, in particular at least one aluminum salt.
  • a composition according to the present invention comprises scleroglucan gum.
  • Scleroglucan gum may be obtained via the fermentation action of the filamentous fungus Sclerotium rolfsii on a glucose-based substrate.
  • the mixture is purified with alcohol (ethanol or isopropanol), pressed, dried and ground.
  • the powder thus obtained may optionally be sterilized by irradiation or by high pressure.
  • Scleroglucan gum is a homopolysaccharide of very high molecular mass, hydrolysis of which gives only glucoses.
  • the main chain is constituted of ⁇ (l-3)-linked ⁇ -D-glucoses.
  • One in three glucose residues bears a ⁇ (l-6)-linked ⁇ -D-glucose, which prevents aggregation of the chains.
  • Scleroglucan gum is also known as sclerotium gum or scleroglucan. Scleroglucan gum is commercially available and is sold especially under the name Actigum CS by the company Sanofi Bio Industries, and in particular Actigum CS 11, and under the names Amigel, Amigum and Amigel Granule by the company Alban Muller International, or alternatively under the name Tinoderm SG-L by the BASF group.
  • This scleroglucan gum may optionally be modified, in particular via enzymatic treatments or by using modified strains. However, in a preferred embodiment, the scleroglucan gum is not modified.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises scleroglucan gum in a content of between 0.6% and 3%, in particular between 0.8% and 2% and even more particularly between 0.9% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may advantageously be a cosmetic or dermatological composition.
  • composition according to the invention since a composition according to the invention is intended for topical application to keratin materials, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium means a medium that is compatible with the skin and/or the nails.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is in particular a cosmetically or dermato logically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that has no unpleasant odor, color or appearance, and that does not cause the user any unacceptable stinging, tautness or redness.
  • the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50%) by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
  • the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
  • the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 80% by weight and preferably from 30% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C 2 -C 32 polyol.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
  • a polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
  • the polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those especially containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 -propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
  • said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the invention may comprise at least propylene glycol.
  • composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.
  • an oily phase is dispersed in a gelled aqueous phase. It includes all liquid fatty substances, generally oils (also known as liquid fatty phase). In other words, for the purposes of the invention, an oily phase is also referred to as a liquid fatty phase and comprises at least one oil.
  • the oily phase is advantageously non-gelled.
  • the oily phase may also comprise pasty compounds, in contents which allow the fatty phase to remain in liquid form.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is free of wax.
  • free of wax means containing less than 1.00% by weight, preferably less than 0.50%> by weight and better still less than 0.10%> by weight of wax, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even being totally free of wax.
  • oil means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (21°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil, at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil or at least a mixture thereof, which is preferably nonvolatile.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is free of fluoro oil.
  • free of fluoro oil means containing less than 1.00% by weight, preferably less than 0.50%> by weight and better still less than 0.10% by weight of fluoro oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even being totally free of fluoro oil.
  • nonvolatile refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is nonzero and is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the composition comprises a total content of at least one silicone oil, at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil or at least a mixture thereof of between 1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 2% and 20%> by weight, preferably between 5% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the set of oils chosen from a silicone oil, an apolar hydrocarbon-based oil and a mixture thereof, and scleroglucan gum are used in the composition according to the invention in an oil(s)/scleroglucan gum weight ratio of between 1.4 and 30, preferably between 1.6 and 15.
  • a composition according to the present invention may typically comprise scleroglucan gum in a content ranging between 1% and 3% by weight and allow the stabilized dispersion of an oily phase whose content ranges advantageously between 1% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil.
  • silicone oil means an oil comprising at least one Si atom.
  • the nonvolatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen especially from silicone oils especially with a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10 "6 m 2 /s) and less than 800 000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600 000 cSt and preferably between 100 and 500 000 cSt.
  • the viscosity of this silicone may be measured according to standard ASTM D-445.
  • the nonvolatile silicone oil is a non- phenyl silicone oil.
  • the nonvolatile non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from:
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • - PDMSs comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are on the side and/or at the ends of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, - PDMSs comprising aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,
  • a composition according to the invention contains at least one non-phenyl silicone oil, in particular such as a linear (i.e. noncyclic) oil.
  • nonvolatile non-phenyl linear silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
  • the non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen especially from the silicones of formula (I):
  • Ri, R 2 , R 5 and Re are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • R 3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,
  • X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,
  • n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25°C is between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10 "6 m 2 /s) and 800 000 cSt.
  • cSt centistokes
  • nonvolatile silicone oil that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the compounds of formula (I) for which:
  • the substituents Ri to Re and X represent a methyl group
  • p and n are such that the viscosity is 500 000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric, the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product sold under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt by the company Dow Corning,
  • the substituents Ri to Re and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning,
  • a composition according to the invention contains at least one nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil.
  • nonvolatile phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned include:
  • the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
  • the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.
  • R R R (II) in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
  • said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described previously may be used. Mention may be made, for example, of mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organopolysiloxane.
  • Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl.
  • a phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: l,3,5-trimethyl-l,l,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane).
  • the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid may also be used.
  • y ranges between 1 and 1000.
  • Use may be made, for example, of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold especially under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker.
  • y is equal to 0.
  • Use may be made, for example, of phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold especially under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:
  • Ri - Ri to Ri o are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C 1 -C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
  • n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.
  • the sum "m+n+p+q” is between 1 and 100.
  • the sum "m+n+q” is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800.
  • q is equal to 0. - the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VII) below, and mixtures thereof:
  • - Ri to Re independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
  • n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
  • Ri to R5 independently of each other, represent a saturated, linear or branched C1-C30 and especially C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical.
  • Ri to Re may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
  • n 1 or 2 or 3
  • R is a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and - m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m ranges from 1 to 100.
  • radicals R of formula (VIII) and Ri to Rio defined previously may each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, especially a C2-C20, in particular C3-C16 and more particularly C4-C10 alkyl radical, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -Ci4 and especially C10-C13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical whose aryl and alkyl residues are as defined previously.
  • R of formula (VIII) and Ri to Rio may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt).
  • phenyl silicone oils use may especially be made of the phenyl trimethicones of formula (VIII), such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), the oil Silbione 70663 V30 from Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt) or diphenyl dimethicones such as Belsil oils, especially Belsil PDMIOOO (1000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker.
  • the values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C.
  • Ri, R 2 , R5 and Re are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • R3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical,
  • X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.
  • the phenyl silicones are more particularly chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and mixtures thereof.
  • the phenyl silicones are more particularly chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.
  • the weight-average molecular weight of the nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil according to the invention ranges from 500 to 10 000 g/mol.
  • silicone oils such as:
  • phenyl silicones also known as phenyl silicone oil
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • Element 14 PDMS 10-A by the company Naturochim
  • polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are on the side and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms
  • the oily phase comprises at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based oil, which again is preferably nonvolatile.
  • apolar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 5 a , is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • ⁇ ⁇ ( ⁇ ⁇ 2 + 5h 2 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the parameters ⁇ ⁇ , 5h, 5D and 5 a are expressed as (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is free of oxygen atoms.
  • the nonvolatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:
  • the oily phase may also comprise at least one volatile oil.
  • volatile oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the volatile organic solvent(s) and the volatile oils of the invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, having a nonzero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is an apolar oil.
  • the apolar volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may have a flash point ranging from 40°C to 102°C, preferably ranging from 40°C to 55°C and preferentially ranging from 40°C to 50°C.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen especially from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and especially:
  • Cs-Ci6 alkanes such as Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names,
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and especially from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the composition is free of volatile oil.
  • the term "pasty" is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10%), better still from 0.5%> to 5%, better from 0.6%> to 3% by weight of pasty compound(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oily phase comprises silicone oils, in particular nonvolatile silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes, for instance PDMS 10 cSt. ADDITIVES
  • compositions according to the invention may, in addition, also comprise additional cosmetic and dermatological active agents.
  • compositions according to the invention may comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from opacifiers, stabilizers, preserving agents, polymers, fragrances, aqueous-phase thickeners or gelling agents other than scleroglucan gum, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents, fillers, suspension agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • cosmetic adjuvants chosen from opacifiers, stabilizers, preserving agents, polymers, fragrances, aqueous-phase thickeners or gelling agents other than scleroglucan gum, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents, fillers, suspension agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be used, for example, as makeup products for keratin materials, such as facial and/or bodily skin, and/or the nails.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be used, for example, as care, cleansing and/or sun protection products for facial and/or bodily skin and/or for the nails, of liquid to semiliquid consistency, such as milks, creams of varying smoothness, cream gels or pastes.
  • the composition is free of hydrophobic active agent or hydrophobic adjuvant.
  • hydrophobic active agents » or « hydrophobic adjuvant is meant active compounds and adjuvants containing hydrophobic moieties.
  • the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one deodorant active agent and/or at least one antiperspirant active agent.
  • deodorant active agent refers to any substance that is capable of masking, absorbing, improving and/or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.
  • the deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odor microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( ⁇ Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea ( ⁇ Triclocarban) or 3,7,11 -trimethyldodeca- 2,5,10-trienol ( ⁇ Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; polyols such as those of glycerol type, 1,3-propanediol (Zemea Propanediol® sold by DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products), 1,2-decaned
  • deodorant active agents in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of:
  • zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc phenolsulfonate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (more commonly known as zinc pidolate), zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc ricinoleate, zinc glycinate, zinc carbonate, zinc citrate, zinc chloride, zinc laurate, zinc oleate, zinc orthophosphate, zinc stearate, zinc tartrate, zinc acetate or mixtures thereof;
  • - odor absorbers such as zeolites, especially silver-free metal zeolites, cyclodextrins, metal oxide silicates such as those described in patent application US 2005/063 928; metal oxide particles modified with a transition metal, as described in patent applications US 2005/084 464 and US 2005/084 474, alumino silicates such as those described in patent application EP 1 658 863, chitosan-based particles such as those described in patent US 6 916 465;
  • the deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight proportions ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • antiperspirant active agent means a salt which, by itself, has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat, of reducing the sensation on the skin of moisture associated with human sweat or of masking human sweat.
  • antiperspirant active agents mention may be made of the antiperspirant salts or complexes of aluminum and/or of zirconium, preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates, aluminum zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxy chloride and of aluminum hydroxy chloride with or without an amino acid, such as those described in patent US-3 792 068.
  • aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or unactivated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, the aluminum chlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum chlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, the aluminum dichlorohydrex-poly ethylene glycol complex, the aluminum dichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminum sulfate buffered with sodium aluminum lactate.
  • aluminum zirconium salts mention may be made in particular of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.
  • the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine).
  • ZAG when the amino acid is glycine.
  • Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate is in particular sold under the trade name Reach
  • the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid such as glycine having the INCI name: Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex Gly, for example the product sold under the name Reach AZP-908-SUF® by the company Summitreheis.
  • the antiperspirant active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of from 0.001% to 30% by weight, and preferably in a proportion of from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of an antiperspirant or deodorant composition.
  • a makeup composition for the skin and especially for the face may also be in the form of a foundation, a liquid lipstick, an eyeshadow, a blusher, a concealer or a care gel.
  • the percentages are percentages by weight.
  • the ingredients are mixed in the order and under conditions that are readily determined by a person skilled in the art.
  • the methods indicated in the description are used to evaluate the sensory properties such as the dry effect, the fresh effect, the non- wetting effect and the non-tacky effect.
  • compositions are prepared according to the following steps:
  • composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3
  • % AM means the percentage of active material.
  • compositions 2 and 3 also have a soft feel on the skin, and also a sensation of lightness, which is similar to the sensations on application of sera.
  • Example 2 Compositions
  • compositions are prepared according to the same procedure as that described in Example 1.
  • compositions have the desired sensory properties and in particular a non- wetting effect and a non-tacky effect, and also a fresh effect for composition 4.
  • Example 3 Comparative compositions
  • compositions were prepared for comparative purposes.
  • compositions are prepared according to the same procedure as that described in Example 1.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant une dispersion d'une phase huileuse non gélifiée comprenant au moins une huile de silicone, au moins une huile hydrocarbonée apolaire ou au moins un mélange de celles-ci, dans une phase aqueuse gélifiée, ladite phase aqueuse comprenant au moins de la gomme de scléroglucane dans une teneur supérieure à 0,6 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, et la composition étant exempte de tensioactif et exempte de particules de Pickering. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation d'une gomme de scléroglucane pour former une composition cosmétique comprenant une dispersion d'une phase huileuse non gélifiée comprenant au moins une huile de silicone, au moins une huile hydrocarbonée apolaire ou au moins un mélange de celles-ci, dans une phase aqueuse gélifiée, en l'absence de tensioactif et en l'absence de particules de Pickering, ladite phase aqueuse comprenant au moins de la gomme de scléroglucane dans une teneur supérieure à 0,6 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, ainsi qu'un procédé cosmétique de maquillage et/ou de soin des matières kératiniques, comprenant au moins une étape consistant à appliquer sur lesdites matières kératiniques une composition telle que définie ci-dessus.
PCT/EP2017/084377 2016-12-27 2017-12-22 Composition cosmétique comprenant une dispersion d'huile dans une phase aqueuse gélifiée WO2018122165A1 (fr)

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FR1663436A FR3061003B1 (fr) 2016-12-27 2016-12-27 Composition cosmetique comprenant une dispersion d'huile dans une phase aqueuse gelifiee
FR1663436 2016-12-27

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2023086855A1 (fr) * 2021-11-10 2023-05-19 Cargill, Incorporated Formulations améliorées de produits de soins personnels pour masquer les odeurs ou réduire la transpiration

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US3792068A (en) 1971-04-02 1974-02-12 Procter & Gamble Dry powder aerosol antiperspirant composition incorporating dry powder antiperspirant active complex and process for its preparation
EP0891768A2 (fr) * 1997-07-04 1999-01-20 Ciba SC Holding AG Scleroglucanes et compositions cosmetiques les contenant
WO2001070271A2 (fr) * 2000-03-23 2001-09-27 Collaborative Technologies, Inc. Compositions de base stables utiles pour preparer des compositions topiques sans tensioactifs
US20050063928A1 (en) 2003-09-18 2005-03-24 Withiam Michael C. Compositions comprising odor neutralizing metal oxide silicates
US20050084464A1 (en) 2003-10-16 2005-04-21 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Method for reducing odor using metal-modified particles
US20050084474A1 (en) 2003-10-16 2005-04-21 Kimberly-Clark Corporation Method for reducing odor using coordinated polydentate compounds
US6916465B2 (en) 2000-03-23 2005-07-12 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh & Co. Kg Deodorizing preparations containing nanosacle chitosans and/or chitosan derivatives
EP1658863A1 (fr) 2003-08-08 2006-05-24 Kao Corporation Deodorant
WO2008155059A2 (fr) 2007-06-19 2008-12-24 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Mélanges d'hydrocarbures et leur utilisation
EP2868308A1 (fr) * 2013-10-30 2015-05-06 Lipotec, S.A. Expolysaccharide pour le traitement et/ou les soins de la peau, media de culture et compositions les contenant
WO2016030839A1 (fr) * 2014-08-28 2016-03-03 L'oreal Composition gel/gel comprenant un filtre uv
US20160136060A1 (en) * 2014-11-13 2016-05-19 L'oreal Water-based gel cosmetic compositions comprising a polysaccharide hydrocolloid

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3301848A (en) * 1962-10-30 1967-01-31 Pillsbury Co Polysaccharides and methods for production thereof
US3792068A (en) 1971-04-02 1974-02-12 Procter & Gamble Dry powder aerosol antiperspirant composition incorporating dry powder antiperspirant active complex and process for its preparation
EP0891768A2 (fr) * 1997-07-04 1999-01-20 Ciba SC Holding AG Scleroglucanes et compositions cosmetiques les contenant
US6916465B2 (en) 2000-03-23 2005-07-12 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh & Co. Kg Deodorizing preparations containing nanosacle chitosans and/or chitosan derivatives
WO2001070271A2 (fr) * 2000-03-23 2001-09-27 Collaborative Technologies, Inc. Compositions de base stables utiles pour preparer des compositions topiques sans tensioactifs
EP1658863A1 (fr) 2003-08-08 2006-05-24 Kao Corporation Deodorant
US20050063928A1 (en) 2003-09-18 2005-03-24 Withiam Michael C. Compositions comprising odor neutralizing metal oxide silicates
US20050084474A1 (en) 2003-10-16 2005-04-21 Kimberly-Clark Corporation Method for reducing odor using coordinated polydentate compounds
US20050084464A1 (en) 2003-10-16 2005-04-21 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Method for reducing odor using metal-modified particles
WO2008155059A2 (fr) 2007-06-19 2008-12-24 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Mélanges d'hydrocarbures et leur utilisation
EP2868308A1 (fr) * 2013-10-30 2015-05-06 Lipotec, S.A. Expolysaccharide pour le traitement et/ou les soins de la peau, media de culture et compositions les contenant
WO2016030839A1 (fr) * 2014-08-28 2016-03-03 L'oreal Composition gel/gel comprenant un filtre uv
US20160136060A1 (en) * 2014-11-13 2016-05-19 L'oreal Water-based gel cosmetic compositions comprising a polysaccharide hydrocolloid

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2023086855A1 (fr) * 2021-11-10 2023-05-19 Cargill, Incorporated Formulations améliorées de produits de soins personnels pour masquer les odeurs ou réduire la transpiration

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FR3061003B1 (fr) 2019-05-24

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