WO2018122187A1

WO2018122187A1 - Pickering emulsion with an improved sensory effect

Info

Publication number: WO2018122187A1
Application number: PCT/EP2017/084466
Authority: WO
Inventors: Nathalie Jager Lezer; Fabrice SPRINGINSFELD
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2016-12-27
Filing date: 2017-12-22
Publication date: 2018-07-05
Also published as: FR3060978B1; FR3060978A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a Pickering-type emulsion, especially a cosmetic emulsion, comprising: (a) at least Pickering particles chosen from organic particles, magnesium silicate, synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate particles, and mixtures thereof; (b) scleroglucan gum; (c) at least one aqueous phase; and (d) at least one oily phase. The invention also relates to the use of a scleroglucan gum in a Pickering-type emulsion comprising at least Pickering particles, as agent promoting at least one improved sensory property chosen from dry-effect, fresh-effect and non-wetting-effect sensations. Finally, the invention relates to a corresponding preparation process and also to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the application of an emulsion according to the invention to the skin and/or the nails.

Description

Pickering emulsion with an improved sensory effect

The present invention relates to compositions, especially cosmetic or dermato logical compositions, preferably for topical application, of the "Pickering" type. More particularly, the present invention relates to the field of caring for, cleansing, protecting and/or making up the skin and/or the nails, and in particular facial and/or bodily skin.

The term "skin" means the skin of the face and/or of the body.

The term "nails" also means false nails insofar as the cosmetic effects desired are often the same.

In the cosmetic field, it is conventional to formulate oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions. These emulsions are most particularly advantageous for their sensory properties. However, these cosmetic emulsions are, generally, stabilized with surfactants that can be a curb in certain applications.

Specifically, surfactants, in particular as emulsifiers, may affect the cosmeticity of products and the powdery nature of the deposit, which is greatly appreciated by consumers. In particular, in the case of antiperspirants, the presence of aluminum salts limits the use of a broad family of surfactants on account of their ionic nature. These surfactants are also liable to produce certain negative effects, such as a tacky, slippery or soapy effect.

Moreover, besides the desired stability aspect, consumers wish to use cosmetic compositions that have pleasant sensory properties on application. In particular, among the sensory properties targeted, mention may be made of the dry effect, the fresh effect and the non-wetting effect.

There is thus still a need for stable emulsions which simultaneously have advantageous sensory properties, namely a fresh-effect sensory property, a dry-effect sensory property and/or a non-wetting-effect sensory property, while at the same time being gentle on the skin and/or the nails and, in this respect, having reduced amounts of surfactants or even, advantageously, being free of surfactants.

WO 2016/083385 describes Pickering-type oil-in-water emulsions comprising a synthetic phyllosilicate. However, it is not at all a matter in said document of compositions which simultaneously have increased stability and particular sensory properties, such as those indicated above.

Thus, it was proposed to use, besides particles at the interfaces of these emulsions devoted in particular to contributing toward the stability of the emulsions, known as "Pickering particles" as detailed hereinbelow, scleroglucan gum to manufacture "Pickering"-type emulsions.

A "Pickering"-type emulsion is an emulsion comprising a continuous phase and a phase dispersed in said continuous phase; said phases being immiscible, and said emulsion being stabilized with solid particles adsorbed at the interface of the two immiscible phases, without it being necessary to use emulsifying surfactants.

Once positioned at the interface, said solid particles "block" the dispersed phase, which leads to stabilization of the emulsion. The emulsion thus formed is stable for several weeks.

Surprisingly, the inventors have recently found that the use of a scleroglucan gum can give to an emulsion, in particular of oil- in- water type, of Pickering type comprising particles devoted to stabilizing said emulsions or Pickering particles, sensory properties that have never been obtained hitherto, namely dry-effect, fresh-effect and/or non-wetting-effect sensations.

Thus, one subject of the present invention is a Pickering-type emulsion, especially a cosmetic emulsion, comprising:

- (a) at least Pickering particles chosen from organic particles, magnesium silicate, synthetic magnesium phyllo silicate particles, and mixtures thereof;

- (b) scleroglucan gum;

- (c) at least one aqueous phase; and

- (d) at least one oily phase.

According to a preferential embodiment of the invention, the Pickering-type emulsion does not contain any surfactant.

The term "not containing any surfactant" means containing less than 1.00% by weight, preferably less than 0.50%> by weight and better still less than 0.10% by weight of surfactant, or even being totally free of surfactant. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "surfactant" means an amphiphilic molecule, i.e. a molecule that has two parts of different polarity, one being lipophilic (which retains fatty substances) and apolar, and the other hydrophilic (water- miscible) and polar.

Surfactants are characterized by their HLB (hydrophilic- lipophilic balance) value, the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For emulsifiers, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O/W emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined via the Griffin method or the Davies method.

According to one implementation variant, the emulsion according to the invention is a cosmetic or dermato logical composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.

A subject of the present invention is also the use of a scleroglucan gum in a Pickering-type emulsion comprising at least Pickering particles, as agent promoting at least one improved sensory property chosen from dry-effect, fresh-effect and non- wetting-effect sensations.

According to another aspect, the invention relates to a process for preparing an emulsion according to the invention, comprising at least the following steps:

1) dispersing, with stirring, Pickering particles and scleroglucan gum in water, with stirring;

2) mixing oily phase into the aqueous phase;

3) forming the emulsion;

(i) at a temperature of 20-25°C, if there is no fatty substance that is solid at said temperature, with stirring; or

(ii) at a temperature above the melting point of said solid fatty substance.

According to another aspect, a subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment process comprising the application of an emulsion according to the invention to the skin and/or the nails. EVALUATION OF THE SENSORY PROPERTIES

The improved sensory properties of the emulsions according to the present invention are evaluated according to the following protocols.

An amount of 0.12 g of product on an area of 28 cm² on the forearm is applied by finger. After 10 rotations, the product is left to dry. The scales for measuring the various sensory effects are graduated on five levels:

Dry effect: the dry effect of the product is evaluated after drying, by passing a finger over the deposit obtained.

Fresh effect: the fresh effect of the product is evaluated on application and during drying.

Non-wetting effect: The non-wetting effect of the product is evaluated on application (spreading) and as a function of the drying time.

SCLEROGLUCAN GUM

An emulsion according to the present invention comprises scleroglucan gum.

Scleroglucan gum may be obtained via the fermentation action of the filamentous fungus Sclerotium rolfsii on a glucose-based substrate. The mixture is purified with alcohol (ethanol or isopropanol), pressed, dried and ground. The powder thus obtained may optionally be sterilized by irradiation or by high pressure. Scleroglucan gum is a homopolysaccharide of very high molecular mass, hydrolysis of which gives only glucoses.

The main chain is constituted of β (l-3)-linked β-D-glucoses. One in three glucose residues bears a β (l-6)-linked β-D-glucose, which prevents aggregation of the chains. Scleroglucan gum is also known as sclerotium gum, sclerote gum or scleroglucan. Scleroglucan gum is commercially available and is sold especially under the name Actigum CS by the company Sanofi Bio Industries, and in particular Actigum CS 11, and under the names Amigel, Amigum and Amigel Granule by the company Alban Muller International, or alternatively under the name Tinoderm SG-L by the BASF group. This scleroglucan gum may optionally be modified, in particular via enzymatic treatments or by using modified strains. However, in a preferred embodiment, the scleroglucan gum is not modified.

The emulsion according to the present invention comprises scleroglucan gum in a content of between 0.6% and 3%, in particular between 0.7% and 1% and even more particularly between 0.8% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

PICKERING PARTICLES

The emulsion that is the subject of the present patent application comprises Pickering particles. The role of such particles is to stabilize Pickering emulsions.

Any particle commonly used for stabilizing Pickering-type emulsions may be used in the context of the present invention.

In other words, according to his general knowledge, a person skilled in the art is familiar with the use of these particles, which may vary in shapes and sizes. The particles may be chosen in particular according to their ability to position themselves at the W/O interfaces, i.e. their ability to be wetted with water and with oil. Moreover, they are characterized by a size of less than 40 μιη.

The wettability as indicated above may be measured according to the test indicated below.

Test for selecting Pickering particles, which have stabilizing action on the oil- water interface to give oil-in-water Pickering emulsions:

The test is performed at room temperature (21 °C).

49 g of water, 49 g of oil and 2 g of particles are weighed out. The three ingredients are mixed in a hermetically closed container. Stirring is performed manually (to-and-fro) for 1 minute. Three phases are observed with the naked eye: the oil above, the intermediate Pickering emulsion, and the water below. The particles retained according to the invention are those that are capable of stabilizing at least 10% of the initial amount of oil 8 hours after preparation. This is the case especially for synthetic magnesium phyllosilicates and PMMA particles as described especially under the respective names Sepimat H10 and Finesil.

When pronounced coalescence and/or complete separation of the two phases (oil and water) is obtained with particles present either in the oil or in the water, these particles are not qualified as Pickering particles. This is the case especially for perlite, Luzenac talc and Orgasol-type nylon powders.

Thus, the fillers conventionally contained in cosmetic compositions, such as nylon, do not feature among Pickering particles. As such Pickering particles, mention may be made in particular of organic or inorganic particles.

According to a particular embodiment, the emulsion according to the present invention thus comprises as Pickering particles particles chosen from organic particles, such as polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) particles and inorganic particles such as magnesium silicate or synthetic magnesium phyllo silicate particles, and mixtures thereof.

ORGANIC PARTICLES

As Pickering particles, mention may be made in particular of polymer particles. In this respect, mention may be made of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) particles.

Such PMMA particles that are suitable for use in the present invention may have a size of between 5 and 20 μιη.

Such PMMA particles that are suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen in particular from those sold under the name Sepimat H 10 PMMA (rice bowl) by the company SEPPIC. They have sizes of between 5 and 20 μιη.

The solid PMMA particles may be used in a content preferably of between 1% and 10% by weight, preferentially between 3% and 8% by weight and even more preferentially between 4% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion containing them. MAGNESIUM SILICATE

As mineral Pickering particles, mention may be made in particular of magnesium silicate particles.

Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates usually comprising aluminum silicate. The crystal structure of talc consists of repeating layers of a sandwich of brucite between layers of silica. Such a talc may be chosen more particularly from those sold under the names Rose Talc® and Talc SG-2000® sold by the company Nippon Talc, Luzenac Pharma M® sold by the company Luzenac, J-68BC from US Corporation and Micro ACE- P-3® sold by the company Nippon Talc.

The magnesium silicate Pickering particles may be used in a content preferably of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferentially between 0.1% and 2% by weight and even more preferentially between 0.1% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion containing them.

Such magnesium silicate Pickering particles preferably have a size of between 1 and 30 μιη, preferentially between 1 and 20 μιη and more preferentially between 2 and 15 μιη.

SYNTHETIC MAGNESIUM PHYLLOSILICATE

Among the particles that are suitable for stabilizing the emulsions under consideration in the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicates.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the Pickering-type emulsion comprises a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate.

Advantageously, the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said magnesium phyllosilicate has an X-ray diffraction line of greater than 9.4 A and less than or equal to 9.8 A.

Advantageously, the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said magnesium phyllosilicate has an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm^"1, corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the silanol groups Si-OH at the edge of the phyllosilicate sheets. Advantageously, the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said magnesium phyllo silicate is characterized by the absence of an infrared absorption band at 7156 cm^"1. This band at 7156 cm^"1 corresponds to the vibration band of Mg₂FeOH.

The emulsion according to the present invention comprising said magnesium phyllosilicate also preferably has an infrared absorption band at 7184 cm^"1 corresponding to the 2v Mg30H stretching vibration.

It should be noted that in the presence of adsorbed water, for example residual water, a broad infrared absorption band is detectable and readily identifiable, for example at 5500 cm^"1.

According to the present invention, the synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate particles are adsorbed at the interface of the aqueous phase and of the oily phase and can thus stabilize said emulsion and allow the production of a macroscopically homogeneous composition.

The presence of a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate of molecular formula Mg3Si40io(OH)₂ therefore proves to be particularly advantageous for improving the stability of "Pickering"-type emulsions.

In an equally surprising manner, it was found that the emulsions do not have any tacky effect, and do not "slip." A synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention may be used in the emulsion according to the invention in the form of a powder or in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel and advantageously in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel.

It was also demonstrated that said synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate in gel form was particularly effective for stabilizing said fatty phase/aqueous phase interfaces, and for forming fine emulsions that are stable over time.

The use of these synthetic magnesium phyllosilicates thus reduces the need for surfactants, in particular surfactants of ionic and/or nonionic nature, and therefore improves the ease of use of compositions comprising the emulsion according to the invention. Synthetic magnesium phyllosilicates such as those described in patent application WO 2008/009799 and advantageously those disclosed in patent application FR 2 977 580 and also reported in patent application WO 2016/083385 are most particularly suitable for use in the invention. According to a first variant, said synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate is used therein in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel.

According to a second variant, said synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate is used therein in a dry particulate (or powder) form.

According to a third variant, said synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate is used therein in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel and in a dry particulate (or powder) form.

The synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention has a crystalline structure in accordance with that of a hydroxylated magnesium silicate of molecular formula Mg3Si40io(OH)2 belonging to the chemical family of phyllosilicates.

These phyllosilicates are generally formed from a stack of elemental leaflets of crystalline structure, the number of which ranges from a few units to a few tens of units. Each elemental leaflet is formed by the association of two layers of tetrahedra in which the silicon atoms are positioned, located on either side of a layer of octahedra in which the magnesium atoms are positioned. This group corresponds to the 2/1 phyllosilicates, which are also termed as being of T.O.T. type (tetrahedron-octahedron-tetrahedron) type.

As presented above, a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention may be obtained according to a preparation process such as the one described in patent application WO 2008/009799 and is preferentially obtained according to the technology described in patent application FR 2 977 580.

This preparation process especially comprises a prolonged hydrothermal treatment, which makes it possible to obtain an aqueous gel of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate. Thus, according to a first embodiment variant, the synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate may be used in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, especially like the one obtained directly on conclusion of the synthetic process.

As described in patent application FR 2 977 580, the parameters that influence the synthesis and the properties of a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate in gel form that is suitable for use in the invention are the nature of the heat treatment (200°C to 900°C), the pressure, the nature of the reagents and the proportions thereof.

More particularly, the duration and temperature of the hydrothermal treatment make it possible to control the size of the particles. For example, the lower the temperature, the smaller the synthesized particles, as described in application FR 2 977 580. Controlling the size makes it possible to afford new properties and better control of both its hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties, i.e. amphiphilic properties.

It should nevertheless be noted that such a gel obtained on conclusion of the synthetic process may be subjected to an optional step of washing with water/centrifugation, after which it is dried and milled. The synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate is then available in powder form.

Thus, the synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate under consideration according to the invention may also be formulated in powder form within an emulsion according to the invention.

Structural analysis and characterization of a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention A synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention may be characterized by various parameters, namely infrared absorption bands, its size and its purity, as detailed below.

Under certain conditions, analyses such as nuclear magnetic resonance in particular of ²⁹Si may be useful for the characterization of a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention. Similarly, thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) may be used for the characterization of a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention. Finally, X-ray diffraction may also be used for this purpose. Infrared

Method used

The machine used is a Nicolet 6700 FTIR Fourier transform spectrometer, equipped with an integration sphere, with an InGaA detector and a CaF₂ separator and a resolution of 12 cm^"1, more preferentially of 8 cm^"1 and even more preferentially of 4 cm^"1. In other words, the values of the infrared absorption bands given in this description should be considered as being approximately 6 cm^"1 and more preferentially approximately 4 cm^"1 and even more preferentially approximately 2 cm^"1. The near infrared recordings of the stretching region located at 7184 cm^"1 were broken down by pseudo-Voigt functions using the Fityk software (Wojdyr, 2010).

To visualize the absorption spectrum in a composition comprising at least one aqueous part, such as an emulsion, it is recommended to heat this composition to a temperature corresponding to a temperature of greater than or equal to 100°C (for example 120°C) and less than or equal to 500°C (for example 400°C) so as to remove the adsorbed water part and, where appropriate, some or all of the organic compound(s) present in the composition.

Generally, to confirm an infrared absorption band, a person skilled in the art performs stretching magnifications; in particular, this stretching may, for example, undergo such magnifications to plus or minus 200 cm^"1 on either side of a suspected infrared absorption band.

A natural talc is a mineral species composed of doubly hydroxylated magnesium silicate of formula Mg3Si40io(OH)₂, which may contain traces of nickel, iron, aluminum, calcium or sodium.

Natural talc has an infrared spectrum with a typical, fine and strong infrared absorption band at 7184 cm^"1 corresponding to the stretching vibration 2v Mg30H. Natural talc also contains chemical elements which replace magnesium and silicon in the crystalline structure, which impose the appearance of at least one additional infrared absorption band, in particular that corresponding to the stretching vibration at 7156 cm^"1 attributable to 2v Mg₂FeOH.

The spectrum of the synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention differs from that of a natural talc by an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm^"1 corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the silanol groups Si-OH at the edge of the phyllosilicate sheets.

To confirm this infrared absorption band, a person skilled in the art may perform a stretching amplification, in particular in the region 7400 cm^"1 - 7000 cm^"1 and more particularly in the region 7300 cm^"1 - 7100 cm^"1.

Preferably, the spectrum of the synthetic phyllosilicate is also characterized by an absence of infrared absorption band at 7156 cm^"1. This band at 7156 cm^"1 corresponds to the vibration band of Mg₂FeOH. Preferably, the spectrum of the synthetic phyllosilicate is also characterized by the infrared absorption band at 7184 cm^"1 which is common to natural talc.

It should be noted that in the presence of adsorbed water, for example residual water, a broad infrared absorption band is detectable and readily identifiable, for example at 5500 cm ¹.

Advantageously, the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate has an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm^"1, corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the silanol groups Si-OH at the edge of the phyllosilicate sheets.

Advantageously, the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate is characterized by the absence of an infrared absorption band at 7156 cm^"1. This band at 7156 cm^"1 corresponds to the vibration band of Mg₂FeOH.

The emulsion according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate also preferably has an infrared absorption band at 7184 cm^"1 corresponding to the 2v Mg30H stretching vibration.

In a composition according to the invention, it should be noted that in the presence of adsorbed water, for example residual water, a broad infrared absorption band is detectable and readily identifiable, for example at 5500cm^"1.

Size

Method used

In order to perform the particle size analysis of the synthetic phyllo silicates that are suitable for use in the invention, photon correlation spectroscopy was used. This analytical technique affords access to the size of the particles on the basis of the principle of dynamic light scattering. This device measures over time the intensity of the light scattered by the particles at an angle Θ under consideration and the scattered rays are then processed using the Pade-Laplace algorithm.

This non-destructive technique requires dissolution of the particles. The particle size measurement obtained by this technique corresponds to the value of the hydrodynamic diameter of the particle, i.e. it comprises both the particle size and also the thickness of the hydration layer. The analyses were performed using a VASCO-2 particle size analyzer from Cordouan. For the purpose of obtaining statistical information regarding the particle distribution, the NanoQ™ software was used in multi-acquisition mode with the Pade- Laplace algorithm.

Thus, a synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention, when it is in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, advantageously has a mean size ranging from 300 nm to 500 nm.

In contrast, a synthetic phyllosilicate, when it is used in the form of a powder, like that obtained by dehydration of an aqueous gel, as defined above, may have a mean size ranging from a few microns to several hundred microns, preferably ranging from 5 μιη to 100 μιη, or may be in the form of porous micron or multimicron aggregates composed of said particles.

These characteristics are advantageous with regard to a natural talc, one of the constraints of which is the uncontrolled size of its particles.

Purity

The synthetic phyllosilicate under consideration according to the invention has a degree of purity of at least 99.90% and preferably of at least 99.99%.

It is thus advantageously free of impurities or of undesirable compounds, among which are especially asbestos minerals such as asbestos (serpentine), chlorite, carbonates, heavy metals, iron sulfides, etc., which are generally associated with natural talc and/or incorporated into the structure of natural talcs.

NMR (nuclear magnetic resonance)

Methods used

The silicon-29 (²⁹Si) NMR spectra were recorded on a Bruker Avance 400 (9.4 T) spectrometer. The reference for the chemical shifts is tetramethylsilane (TMS). The samples were placed in 4 mm zirconia rotors. The magic angle spinning (MAS) speed was set at 8 kHz. The experiments were performed at a room temperature of 21°C.

The ²⁹Si spectra were obtained either by direct polarization (rotation of 30°) with a recycling delay of 60 s, or by cross polarization (CP) between 1H and ²⁹Si (recycling time of 5 s and contact time of 3 ms). In silicon ( Si) NMR, natural talc has a single peak at -97 ppm.

In silicon (²⁹Si) NMR, in contrast with natural talc, the spectrum of the synthetic phyllo silicate in accordance with the invention shows two peaks: one located at - 95 ppm and the other located at -97 ppm, this being the case without the need for particle size fractionation to a size of less than 500 nm.

TGA (thermogravimetric analysis)

Method used

The recordings were made using a Perkin Elmer Diamonds thermobalance. For each analysis, about 20 mg of sample were required. During the analysis, the sample is subjected to a temperature increase ranging from 30°C to 1200°C at a rate of 10°C.min^"1 under a stream of 100 mL.min^"1 of air.

The thermogravimetric analysis of a synthetic phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention shows lower thermal stability (at about 800°C) than that of natural talc and it is characterized by four losses of mass, in contrast with natural talc which has only one, at about 900°C.

To establish these losses of mass, it is useful to refer to the article by Angela Dumas, Francois Martin, Christophe Le Roux, Pierre Micoud, Sabine Petit, Eric Ferrage, Jocelyne Brendle, Olivier Grauby and Mike Greenhill-Hooper: "Phyllosilicates synthesis: a way of accessing edges contributions in NMR and FTIR spectroscopies. Example of synthetic talc" (Phys. Chem. Minerals, published on February 27, 2013).

X-ray diffraction

Method used

Analysis of the X-ray diffractogram, especially with the aid of the materials and method used for X-ray diffraction analyses, is detailed in patent application FR 2 977 580.

Preferably, given that X-ray diffraction is performed only on solids, to visualize the absorption spectrum in a composition comprising at least an aqueous part, such as an emulsion, it is recommended to heat this composition to a temperature corresponding to a temperature greater than or equal to 100°C (for example 120°C) and less than or equal to 500°C (for example 400°C) so as to eliminate the adsorbed water part and, where appropriate, some or all of the organic compound(s) present in the composition.

The X-ray diffractogram of the synthetic phyllo silicate that is suitable for use in the invention has the same positions of the diffraction lines as those of natural talc, with the exception of one line. Specifically, natural talc has a diffraction line at 9.36 A whereas the synthetic phyllo silicate in accordance with the invention has a diffraction line above 9.4 A, which may be up to 9.8 A.

More particularly, the synthetic phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention has a diffraction line greater than 9.4 A and less than or equal to 9.8 A.

The synthetic phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention preferably has a diffraction line greater than or equal to 9.5 A, advantageously greater than or equal to 9.6 A, and preferentially greater than or equal to 9.7 A.

The synthetic phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention preferably has a diffraction line less than or equal to 9.7 A, advantageously less than or equal to 9.6 A, and preferentially less than or equal to 9.5 A.

The synthetic phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention may also have a diffraction line between 4.60 A and 4.80 A, and/or a diffraction line between 3.10 A and 3.20 A and/or a diffraction line between 1.51 A and 1.53 A.

It should be noted that a synthetic phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention is free of interfoliar cations. Specifically, this characteristic is demonstrated by the absence of an X-ray diffraction line located at a distance of between 12.00 A and 18.00 A, usually revealing a swelling phase with interfoliar spaces in which are found interfoliar cations and possible water molecules.

It is understood that when a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention is in gel form, the "% by weight" means the "% by weight of solids" or "% by weight of active material".

When a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention is in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel form, it is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight of active material, more preferentially from 1% to 7.5% by weight of active material, and better still from 2% to 4% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the emulsion per 0.3%> to 50%> by weight of oily phase, preferentially per 2% to 25% by weight of oily phase and better still per 4% to 20% by weight of oily phase.

An aqueous gel of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention, as used in the examples below, may in particular be in the form of platelets with a size of between 300 and 600 nm.

When a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention is in anhydrous (powder) form, it is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight of active material, especially from 0.5% to 35% by weight of active material, preferably from 1% to 32% by weight of active material and more preferentially from 2% to 30% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

Among the synthetic magnesium silicates in powder form, mention may be made in particular of the synthetic magnesium phyllosilicates sold under the name Finesil X-35 Silice ovo^'ide, with a size of about 5 μιη.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the emulsion has a content of particles of greater than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the emulsion comprises, as Pickering particles, particles of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate in gel form.

According to yet another particular embodiment of the invention, the emulsion comprises at least 1% by weight of Pickering particles and scleroglucan gum in a content of between 1% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

According to this embodiment, it has in particular been observed that the wetting effect perceived by consumers is most particularly diminished.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM

As presented above, an emulsion according to the invention may advantageously be a cosmetic or dermatological emulsion.

In this particular embodiment, since an emulsion according to the invention is intended for topical application to the skin and/or the nails, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with the skin and/or the nails.

Thus, the physiologically acceptable medium is in particular a cosmetically or dermato logically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that has no unpleasant odor, color or appearance, and that does not cause the user any unacceptable stinging, tautness or redness.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The aqueous phase of an emulsion according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 21°C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C₃ and C₄ ketones and C₂-C₄ aldehydes.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to

85% by weight and preferably from 40% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to another embodiment variant, the aqueous phase of an emulsion according to the invention may comprise at least one C₂-C₃₂ polyol.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.

The polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those especially containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention may comprise at least propylene glycol.

According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.

According to a particular embodiment, when the particles are synthetic magnesium phyllo silicate particles in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, it constitutes all or part of the aqueous phase.

According to a particular embodiment, a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention, in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, constitutes all or part of the aqueous phase, i.e. the aqueous phase of the emulsion is exclusively constituted of this gel and of scleroglucan gum. FATTY PHASE

For the purposes of the invention, the fatty phase includes any liquid fatty substance, generally oils (also known as liquid or oily fatty phase), or solid fatty substance like waxes or pasty compounds (also known as solid fatty phase).

In the sense of the invention, a liquid fatty phase is also called an oily phase and comprises at least one oil.

The term "oz7" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (21°C) and atmospheric pressure. An oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non- fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

The oils may be volatile or nonvolatile.

The oils may be polar or apolar, as defined below.

They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one variant embodiment, oils of plant origin are preferred.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil with a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.

The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a nonzero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ³ to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar οίΓ means an oil whose solubility parameter 5_a at 25°C is other than 0 (J/cm³)^1/2.

In particular, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three- dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: The three- dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- 5D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- δ_ρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- 5h characterizes the forces of specific interactions (such as hydrogen bonds, acid/base bonds, donor/acceptor bonds, and the like);

- 5_a is determined by the equation: δ_α = (δ_ρ ² + 5h²)^½.

The parameters δ_ρ, 5h, 5D and 5_a are expressed as (J/cm³)^½.

Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention have a 5_a of between 4 and 9.1, preferably a 5_a of between 6 and 9.1, even better still between 7.3 and 9.1.

Volatile oils

The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils.

Among the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made especially of branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffms), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.

Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof. Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Nonvolatile oils

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "nonvolatile oil" means an oil with a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mrnHg).

The nonvolatile oils may be chosen especially from nonvolatile hydrocarbon- based oils and/or silicone oils.

Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether,

- synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Ri + R₂≥ 10. The esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid alcohol esters, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or octyl hydroxystearate, alkyl or polyalkyl ricinoleates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate or isotridecyl neopentanoate, or esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate or isotridecyl isononanoate,

- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,

- non-phenyl silicone oils, for instance caprylyl methicone, and

- phenyl silicone oils, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and trimethyl-pentaphenyl-trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and also mixtures of these various oils.

Preferably, an emulsion according to the invention comprises volatile and/or nonvolatile silicone oils.

An emulsion according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 50% by weight, better still from 2% to 20% by weight and preferably from 2.5% to 10% by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of said emulsion.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oil contents are adjusted to obtain optimum stability.

Thus, the nature of the oil may also have an influence on the preferred ranges of contents.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, for a particle content of between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion, the content of polar oil may be between 1% and 10%> by weight, preferably from 2% to 7% by weight and even more preferentially between 4% and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

According to another particular embodiment and still for a particle content of between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion, the content of apolar oil may be between 1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 5% and 15% by weight and even more preferentially between 9% and 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

The various polar and apolar oils that may be suitable for use in the present invention are detailed below.

POLAR OIL

Nonvolatile polar oils

The nonvolatile polar oils may be chosen especially from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils, which may be fluorinated, and/or nonvolatile silicone oils.

As nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyl-dodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate, for example sold under the name Eldew PS203 by Ajinomoto, triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, camelina oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton seed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil or musk rose oil; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; the refined vegetable perhydrosqualene sold under the name Fitoderm by the company Cognis.

As example of castor oil according to the invention, mention may more particularly be made of castor oil comprising at least 50% by weight of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 14-C22 fatty acids, preferably at least 70% by weight of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C16-C20 fatty acids, even better still at least 50%> by weight of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, including less than 5% by weight of saturated CI 8 fatty acids, preferably less than 2.5%> by weight of saturated CI 8 fatty acids such as stearic acid, 50%> to 98%> by weight of monounsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, more preferentially 80% to 98% by weight of monounsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, such as ricinoleic and oleic acids, less than 10%> by weight of polyunsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, preferably from 2%> to 8%> of polyunsaturated CI 8 fatty acids such as linoleic and linolenic acids, relative to the total weight of fatty acids present in said castor oil; such a castor oil is sold by Vertellus under the name Crystal O.

As example of camelina oil according to the invention, mention may more particularly be made of camelina oil comprising at least 50% by weight of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C14-C22 fatty acids, preferably at least 70%> by weight of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 16-C20 fatty acids, better still at least 50% by weight of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, including less than 5% by weight of saturated CI 8 fatty acids such as stearic acid, 12% to 26% by weight of monounsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, from 35% to 64%> by weight of polyunsaturated CI 8 fatty acids such as linoleic and linolenic acids, relative to the total weight of fatty acids present in said camelina oil; such a camelina oil is sold by Greentech under the name Camelina Refined Oil C05002.

As examples of caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, mention may be made of those comprising from 45% to 80% by weight of C8 fatty acids and from 20% to 45% by weight of CIO fatty acids, and especially those sold by PT Musim Mas.

· synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Rl represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Rl + R2 is ³ 10.

The esters may be chosen especially from especially fatty acid esters, for instance:

- cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol and of C8-C18, preferably C12-C16 fatty acids, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate;

- polyol esters and pentaerythrityl esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate;

- esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application FR 03/02809;

• fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 18 to 20 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecano 1;

• higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; and

• dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as the dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis;

• diesters of C2-C16, preferably C8-C12, dicarboxylic acid and of C1-C4 monoalcohol, preferably of branched C3-C4 monoalcohol. Preferably, the diester of sebacic acid and of isopropyl alcohol, such as the diisopropyl sebacate sold under the name DUB DIS by Stearineries Dubois;

• nonvolatile silicone oils, for instance nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are on the side and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof;

- and mixtures thereof. Volatile polar oils

Volatile polar oils that may also be used are volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 x 10^"6 m²/s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, o ctamethy ltrisilo xane , decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

It is also possible to use a mixture of the oils mentioned above.

According to a preferred embodiment, the polar oil(s) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2 in which Rl represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Rl + R2 is ³ 10, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, dialkyl carbonates, diesters of a C2-C16 dicarboxylic acid and of a C1-C4 monoalcohol; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the polar oil(s) are chosen from triglycerides constituted of esters of glycerol and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4 to C24 fatty acids; esters of isopropyl alcohol and of a C8-C18, preferably C12-C16, fatty acid; fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 18 to 20 carbon atoms; dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains being identical, preferably dicaprylyl carbonate; diesters of a C8-C12 dicarboxylic acid and of a branched C3-C4 monoalcohol, preferably diisopropyl sebacate; and mixtures thereof.

The polar oil(s) within the context of the present invention may preferably be chosen from triglycerides constituted of esters of glycerol and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4 to C24 fatty acids; esters of isopropyl alcohol and of C8-C18 fatty acid, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

The polar oil(s) within the context of the present invention may preferably be chosen from triglycerides of glycerol and of C6-C12 fatty acids, triglycerides of glycerol and of C14-C22 fatty acids, esters of isopropyl alcohol and of C8-C18 fatty acids, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon- based chain containing from 18 to 20 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

Preferentially, the triglycerides of glycerol and of C14-C22 fatty acids comprise from 50% to 100% by weight of linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, including 0 to 5% by weight of saturated CI 8 fatty acids such as stearic acid, from 50% to 98% by weight of monounsaturated fatty acids such as ricinoleic and/or oleic acids, and/or from 2% to 70%> by weight of polyunsaturated CI 8 fatty acids such as linoleic and/or linolenic acids, relative to the total weight of fatty acids contained within said triglycerides.

Preferably, the triglycerides of glycerol and of C6-C12 fatty acids comprise from 45% to 80% by weight of C8 fatty acids and from 20% to 45% by weight of CIO fatty acids, relative to the total weight of fatty acids contained within said triglycerides.

APOLAR OIL

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar οίΓ means an oil whose solubility parameter 5_a at 25°C as defined above is equal to 0 (J/cm³)^1/2.

Among the apolar oils, examples that may be mentioned include:

Nonvolatile apolar oils

Hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, for instance: linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene.

Volatile apolar oils

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes (also known as isoparaffms) such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade name Isopar^® or Permethyl^®; linear alkanes, for instance n-dodecane (CI 2) and n-tetradecane (CI 4), sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the n-undecane (CI 1) and n- tridecane (CI 3) mixtures obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO2008/155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the apolar oil is chosen from nonvolatile apolar oils; better still, the apolar oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, in particular linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. In a preferred embodiment, the apolar oil is squalane.

Waxes

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature (21°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than 30°C which may be up to 200°C, a hardness of greater than 0.5 MPa, and having anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained.

The waxes that may be used in the invention are compounds that are solid at room temperature, which are intended to structure the composition in particular in stick form; they may be hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin. In particular, they have a melting point of greater than 40°C and better still greater than 45°C.

As waxes that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of those generally used in cosmetics: they are especially of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugarcane wax, rice wax, montan wax, paraffin, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated oils such as jojoba oil; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene and Fischer-Tropsch waxes, or alternatively fatty acid esters such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides that are solid at 40°C and better still at 45°C, silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones with an alkyl or alkoxy chain of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, poly(di)methylsiloxane esters that are solid at 40°C, the ester chain of which comprises at least 10 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof. As a guide, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5% and better still from 1% to 3% by weight of wax(es), relative to the total weight of the composition. Pasty compound

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from:

- lanolin and derivatives thereof,

polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,

polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,

vinyl polymers, especially:

olefin homopolymers,

- olefin copolymers,

hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,

linear or branched homopolymer or copolymer oligomers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably bearing a C8-C30 alkyl group,

homopolymer and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters bearing C8-C30 alkyl groups,

homopolymer and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers bearing C8-C30 alkyl groups,

liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols,

- esters,

polyvinyl laurate; and

mixtures thereof.

As a guide, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 99%, preferably from 1% to 60%, better from 2% to 30% and better still from 5% to 20% by weight of pasty compound(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

The liquid fatty phase may contain other compounds dissolved in the oils, such as gelling agents and/or structuring agents. These compounds may be chosen in particular from gums, such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl(Cl-C4 alkyl) dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone, and silicone elastomers, for instance the products sold under the KSG names by the company Shin- Etsu, under the name Trefil by the company Dow Corning or under the Gransil names by the company Grant Industries; and mixtures thereof.

All the abovementioned fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by a person skilled in the art so as to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.

In the case of emulsions, the proportion of fatty phase will be chosen according to the sense of the emulsion. According to a preferential embodiment of the invention, the emulsion will be an oil- in- water emulsion.

The fatty phase may thus be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 50% and better still from 2.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the fatty phase comprises an oil chosen from alkanes, such as isohexadecane, esters such as isopropyl palmitate, ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, triglycerides such as capric/caprylic acid triglyceride and silicones, in particular nonvolatile silicones such as polydimethylsiloxanes, for instance PDMS 6 cSt. ADDITIVES

The emulsions according to the invention may, in addition, also comprise additional cosmetic and dermatological active agents.

The emulsions according to the invention may comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from opacifiers, stabilizers, preserving agents, polymers, fragrances, thickeners, gelling agents, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents, fillers, suspension agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.

COMPOSITION

The emulsions according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art. For example, when the emulsion according to the invention is cosmetic or dermato logical, it may be in the form of an oil- in- water or a water-in-oil emulsion of liquid to semisolid consistency.

Preferably, the emulsion is in the form of an oil-in-water (direct emulsion (O/W)) or water-in-oil (inverse emulsion (W/O)) emulsion and more preferentially an oil- in-water emulsion.

The cosmetic emulsions according to the invention may be used, for example, as makeup products for facial and/or bodily skin, and/or for the nails.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be used, for example, as care, cleansing and/or sun protection products for facial and/or bodily skin and/or for the nails, of liquid to semiliquid consistency, such as milks, creams of varying smoothness, cream gels or pastes.

They may optionally be packaged in aerosol form and may be in the form of a mousse or a spray.

The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions in accordance with the invention are applied to the skin or nails in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices.

The devices suitable for use in the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and comprise non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as propellant. These devices are described in patents US 4 077 441 and US 4 850 517.

The compositions packaged in aerosol form in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants, for instance hydro fluoro compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane or trichlorofluoromethane. They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 15% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular form of the invention, the emulsion is not in the form of a mousse.

According to a particular form of the invention, the emulsion according to the invention may also comprise at least one deodorant active agent and/or at least one antiperspirant active agent. The term "deodorant active agent" refers to any substance that is capable of masking, absorbing, improving and/or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.

The deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odor microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (©Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (©Triclocarban) or 3,7,11- trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (©Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, polyols such as those of glycerol type, 1,3-propanediol (Zemea Propanediol® sold by DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products), 1,2-decanediol (Symclariol® from the company Symrise), glycerol derivatives, for instance caprylic/capric glycerides (Capmul MCM® from Abitec), glyceryl caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY® and Dermosoft GMC®, respectively from Straetmans), Polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC® from Straetmans), biguanide derivatives, for instance polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and salts thereof; 4-phenyl-4,4- dimethyl-2-butanol (Symdeo MPP® from Symrise); cyclodextrins; chelating agents such as Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (CAS #51981-21-6) sold under the trade name Dissolvine GL-47-S® from AkzoNobel, EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) and DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid).

Among the deodorant active agents in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made in addition of:

- zinc salts, such as zinc salicylate, zinc phenolsulfonate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (more commonly known as zinc pidolate), zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc ricinoleate, zinc glycinate, zinc carbonate, zinc citrate, zinc chloride, zinc laurate, zinc oleate, zinc orthophosphate, zinc stearate, zinc tartrate, zinc acetate or mixtures thereof;

- odor absorbers such as zeolites, especially silver-free metal zeolites, cyclodextrins, metal oxide silicates such as those described in patent application US 2005/063 928; metal oxide particles modified with a transition metal, as described in patent applications US 2005/084 464 and US 2005/084 474, alumino silicates such as those described in patent application EP 1 658 863, chitosan-based particles such as those described in patent US 6 916 465; - sodium bicarbonate;

- salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid;

- alum;

- triethyl citrate;

- and mixtures thereof.

The deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "antiperspirant active agent" means a salt which, by itself, has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat, of reducing the sensation on the skin of moisture associated with human sweat or of masking human sweat.

Among the antiperspirant active agents, mention may be made of the antiperspirant salts or complexes of aluminum and/or of zirconium, preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid, such as those described in patent US-3 792 068.

Among the aluminum salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or unactivated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, the aluminum chlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum chlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, the aluminum dichlorohydrex-poly ethylene glycol complex, the aluminum dichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminum sulfate buffered with sodium aluminum lactate.

Among the aluminum zirconium salts, mention may be made in particular of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.

The complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products, mention may be made of the aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, the aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, the aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-glycine complexes and the aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex-glycine complexes.

Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate is in particular sold under the trade name Reach 301® by the company SummitReheis.

Among the aluminum and zirconium complexes, mention may be made of the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid such as glycine, having the INCI name: Aluminium Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex Gly, for example the product sold under the name Reach AZP-908-SUF® by the company SummitReheis.

Use will more particularly be made of the aluminum chlorohydrate sold under the trade names Locron S FLA®, Locron P and Locron L.ZA by the company Clariant; under the trade names Microdry Aluminum Chlorohydrate®, Micro-Dry 323®, Chlorhydrol 50, Reach 103 and Reach 501 by the company SummitReheis; under the trade name Westchlor 200® by the company Westwood; under the trade name Aloxicoll PF 40® by the company Guilini Chemie; Cluron 50%® by the company Industria Quimica Del Centro; or Clorohidroxido Aluminio SO A 50%® by the company Finquimica.

The antiperspirant active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of from 0.001% to 30% by weight, and preferably in a proportion of from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular aspect of the invention, a Pickering-type emulsion, in particular a cosmetic emulsion, according to the invention comprises:

(a) at least Pickering particles chosen from organic particles, magnesium silicate, synthetic magnesium phyllo silicate particles, and mixtures thereof;

(b) scleroglucan gum;

(c) at least one aqueous phase;

(d) at least one oily phase; and

(e) at least one antiperspirant salt or complex of aluminum and/or of zirconium, in particular such as described above. Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified. The terms "between... and..." and "ranging from... to..." should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.

In the description and the examples, the percentages are percentages by weight. The ingredients are mixed in an order and under conditions that are readily determined by a person skilled in the art.

EXAMPLES

Throughout the examples that follow, the methods indicated in the description are used to evaluate the sensory properties such as the dry effect, the fresh effect and the non- wetting effect.

The values present in the tables that follow represent the contents of the ingredients as mass percentages.

Example 1: Compositions according to and outside the invention comprising a gel of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate as particles

Procedure

Emulsions 1 to 3 were prepared according to the following protocol: 1) Synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate and, where appropriate, scleroglucan gum are dispersed in water with stirring using a Rayneri blender with stirring;

2) The aqueous phase is mixed with the oily phase;

3) The emulsion is formed at a temperature of 20-25°C (there is no solid fatty substance) at said temperature with stirring at 9600 rpm (Ultra-Turrax blender);

4) The preserving agent is added after cooling.

Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3

Composition

(outside the (according to (according to INCI name

invention) the invention) the invention)

Synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate (%

2 1 1

AM)

Water 62.3 62.3 62.6

Scleroglucan gum

(Amigel Granule) 1 0.7

Alban Miiller

Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 (Neolone PH 100 Preservative)

SEPPIC

Aluminum chlorohydrate (Chlorhydrol 50)

30 (15% AM) 30 (15% AM) 30 (15% AM) SummitReheis

PDMS

(Elements PDMS 10- A) 5 5 5

Naturochim

Stability T24H at room temperature OK OK OK

Stability T2Months OK OK OK

Wetting: 3 Wetting: 2

Evaluation of the sensory nature (n = 5 Tack: 3 Tack: 1.5

persons) Freshness: 2 Freshness: 4

(+ :5 / - : l) soft, transparent soft, transparent finish

finish

%> AM means the percentage of active material.

Unlike composition 1 which comprises no scleroglucan gum, compositions 2 and 3 show, in addition to advantageous results in terms of stability, an improvement as regards the sensory properties, and in particular with regard to the freshness effect.

Example 2: Compositions comprising different types of particles

Procedure

1) The particles and scleroglucan gum are dispersed in water with stirring using a Rayneri blender with stirring;

2) The aqueous phase is mixed with the oily phase;

4) The preserving agent is added after cooling. Composition Composition Composition Composition Composition 4 5 6 7 8

Composition

(according (according (according (according (according INCI name

to the to the to the to the to the invention) invention) invention) invention) invention)

Synthetic

magnesium

1

phyllosilicate

powder

Hydrated silica

(Finesil X-35) 1

Oriental Silicas

PMMA

(Sepimat H 10) 1 1 5 SEPPIC

Scleroglucan gum

(Amigel Granule) 1 1 1 1 1 Alban Muller

Water qs qs qs qs qs

Phenoxyethanol

(Neolone PH 100

0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Preservative)

SEPPIC

Aluminum

chlorohydrate 30 (15% 30 (15% 30 (15% 30 (15% 30 (15% (Chlorhydrol 50) AM) AM) AM) AM) AM) SummitReheis

PDMS

(Elements PDMS 5 5 5 15

10-A) Naturochim

Isopropyl

palmitate

5 (Isopropyl

palmitate) BASF

Stability T24H OK OK OK OK OK

A few oil

Stability T2M NTR NTR NTR NTR drops at the surface

Wetting: 2

Wetting: 2.5 Wetting: 3

Evaluation of the Wetting: 2.5 Wetting: 2.5 Tack: 2.5

Tack: 2.5 Tack: 2.5 sensory nature (n Tack: 2.5 Tack: 2 oily,

soft, light, soft,

= 5 persons) very white, soft, soft,

transparent transparent

(+ :5 / - : l) coarse finish transparent transparent

finish finish

finish

The qualifier "coarse" is interesting since it is linked to the dry perception under the armpits.

All the emulsions prepared and tested above show an improvement in the sensory properties.

Example 3: Compositions comprising various contents of particles and of scleroglucan gum

Procedure

2) The aqueous phase is mixed with the oily phase;

4) The preserving agent is added after cooling.

Composition Composition

Composition Composition Composition

10 12

9 (according 11 (according 13 (according

Composition (according to (according

to the to the to the the to the

invention) invention) invention) invention) invention)

PMMA

(Sepimat H 10) 1 1 5 5 10

SEPPIC

Scleroglucan gum

(Amigel Granule) 1 2 0.6 1 1

Alban Muller

Water qs qs qs qs qs

Phenoxyethanol

(Neolone PH 100

0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Preservative)

SEPPIC

Aluminum

chlorohydrate 30 (15%

30 (15% AM) 30 (15% AM) 30 (15% AM) 30 (15% AM) (Chlorhydrol 50) AM)

SummitReheis

PDMS

(Elements PDMS

15 5 5 5 20 10-A)

Naturochim

Stability T24H OK OK OK OK OK

A few oil

Stability T2M drops at the NTR NTR NTR NTR

surface

Wetting: 1

Wetting: 2 Tack: 2.5 Wetting: 2.5 Wetting: 2 Wetting: 1.5

Sensory evaluation Tack: 2.5 sparingly Tack: 1 Tack: 3 Tack: 1.5 (n = 5 persons) oily, soft, marked, sparingly soft, transparent, (+ :5 / - : l) transparent coarse, marked, soft powdery coarse powdery finish powdery finish white finish finish white finish

The compositions of this example have a satisfactory sensory effect as regards the wetting effect. Example 4 : Composition outside of the invention comprising silica silylate

Procedure

1) The particles of silica silylate and scleroglucan gum are dispersed in water with stirring using a Rayneri blender with stirring;

2) The aqueous phase is mixed with the oily phase;

3) The emulsion is formed at a temperature of 20-25°C (there is no solid fatty substance) with stirring at 9600 rpm (Ultra-Turrax blender);

4) The preserving agent is added after cooling.

The composition of this example, which does not comprise Pickering particles according to the invention, does not present satisfactory cosmetic or sensory properties.

Claims

1. A Pickering-type emulsion, especially a cosmetic emulsion, comprising:

(a) at least Pickering particles chosen from organic particles, magnesium silicate, synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate particles, and mixtures thereof;

(b) scleroglucan gum;

(c) at least one aqueous phase; and

(d) at least one oily phase.

2. The emulsion as claimed in claim 1, in which the scleroglucan gum is present in a content of between 0.6% and 3%, in particular between 0.7% and 1% and even more particularly between 0.8% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

3. The emulsion as claimed in the preceding claim, in which the particles are particles of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate of molecular formula Mg3Si40io(OH)2 and have an X-ray diffraction line of greater than 9.4 A and less than or equal to 9.8 A.

4. The emulsion as claimed in the preceding claim, in which the particles are particles of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate of molecular formula Mg3Si40io(OH)2 and have an infrared absorption band of 7200 cm^"1 corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the silanol Si-OH groups at the edge of the phyllosilicate sheets.

5. The emulsion as claimed in either of claims 3 and 4, in which the particles are particles of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate of molecular formula Mg3Si40io(OH)2 and are characterized by the absence of an infrared absorption band at 7156 cm^"1.

6. The emulsion as claimed in any one of claims 3 to 5, in which the particles are particles of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate of molecular formula Mg3Si40io(OH)2 and are used in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel.

7. The emulsion as claimed in the preceding claim, in which the synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight of active material, more preferentially from 1% to 7.5% by weight of active material, and better still from 2% to 4% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition per 0.3%> to 30%> by weight of oily phase, preferentially per 2% to 25% by weight of oily phase and better still per 4% to 20%> by weight of oily phase.

8. The emulsion as claimed in any one of claims 3 to 5, in which the Pickering particles are particles of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate and are used in the form of a powder.

9. The emulsion as claimed in the preceding claim, in which the synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight of active material, especially from 0.5% to 35% by weight of active material, preferably ranging from 1% to 32% by weight of active material and more preferentially from 2% to 30% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The emulsion as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is of the oil- in- water type.

11. The emulsion as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one deodorant active agent and/or at least one antiperspirant active agent.

12. The use of a scleroglucan gum in a Pickering-type emulsion comprising at least Pickering particles, as agent promoting at least one improved sensory property chosen from dry-effect, fresh-effect and non-wetting-effect sensations.

13. A process for preparing an emulsion as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising at least the following steps:

2) mixing oily phase into the aqueous phase;

3) forming the emulsion;

(ii) at a higher temperature than the melting point of said solid fatty substance.

14. A cosmetic treatment process comprising the application of an emulsion as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 12 to the skin and/or the nails.