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WO2018122187A1 - Émulsion de pickering à effet sensoriel amélioré - Google Patents

Émulsion de pickering à effet sensoriel amélioré Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018122187A1
WO2018122187A1 PCT/EP2017/084466 EP2017084466W WO2018122187A1 WO 2018122187 A1 WO2018122187 A1 WO 2018122187A1 EP 2017084466 W EP2017084466 W EP 2017084466W WO 2018122187 A1 WO2018122187 A1 WO 2018122187A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
emulsion
particles
weight
pickering
oil
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2017/084466
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Nathalie Jager Lezer
Fabrice SPRINGINSFELD
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2018122187A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018122187A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to compositions, especially cosmetic or dermato logical compositions, preferably for topical application, of the "Pickering" type. More particularly, the present invention relates to the field of caring for, cleansing, protecting and/or making up the skin and/or the nails, and in particular facial and/or bodily skin.
  • skin means the skin of the face and/or of the body.
  • nails also means false nails insofar as the cosmetic effects desired are often the same.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • surfactants in particular as emulsifiers, may affect the cosmeticity of products and the powdery nature of the deposit, which is greatly appreciated by consumers.
  • the presence of aluminum salts limits the use of a broad family of surfactants on account of their ionic nature.
  • surfactants are also liable to produce certain negative effects, such as a tacky, slippery or soapy effect.
  • cosmetic compositions that have pleasant sensory properties on application.
  • WO 2016/083385 describes Pickering-type oil-in-water emulsions comprising a synthetic phyllosilicate. However, it is not at all a matter in said document of compositions which simultaneously have increased stability and particular sensory properties, such as those indicated above.
  • a "Pickering"-type emulsion is an emulsion comprising a continuous phase and a phase dispersed in said continuous phase; said phases being immiscible, and said emulsion being stabilized with solid particles adsorbed at the interface of the two immiscible phases, without it being necessary to use emulsifying surfactants.
  • a scleroglucan gum can give to an emulsion, in particular of oil- in- water type, of Pickering type comprising particles devoted to stabilizing said emulsions or Pickering particles, sensory properties that have never been obtained hitherto, namely dry-effect, fresh-effect and/or non-wetting-effect sensations.
  • one subject of the present invention is a Pickering-type emulsion, especially a cosmetic emulsion, comprising:
  • the Pickering-type emulsion does not contain any surfactant.
  • surfactant means an amphiphilic molecule, i.e. a molecule that has two parts of different polarity, one being lipophilic (which retains fatty substances) and apolar, and the other hydrophilic (water- miscible) and polar.
  • HLB hydrophilic- lipophilic balance
  • the term "HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).
  • HLB hydrophilic- lipophilic balance
  • the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O/W emulsions.
  • the HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined via the Griffin method or the Davies method.
  • the emulsion according to the invention is a cosmetic or dermato logical composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the use of a scleroglucan gum in a Pickering-type emulsion comprising at least Pickering particles, as agent promoting at least one improved sensory property chosen from dry-effect, fresh-effect and non- wetting-effect sensations.
  • the invention relates to a process for preparing an emulsion according to the invention, comprising at least the following steps:
  • a subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment process comprising the application of an emulsion according to the invention to the skin and/or the nails.
  • the improved sensory properties of the emulsions according to the present invention are evaluated according to the following protocols.
  • Dry effect the dry effect of the product is evaluated after drying, by passing a finger over the deposit obtained.
  • Fresh effect the fresh effect of the product is evaluated on application and during drying.
  • Non-wetting effect The non-wetting effect of the product is evaluated on application (spreading) and as a function of the drying time.
  • An emulsion according to the present invention comprises scleroglucan gum.
  • Scleroglucan gum may be obtained via the fermentation action of the filamentous fungus Sclerotium rolfsii on a glucose-based substrate.
  • the mixture is purified with alcohol (ethanol or isopropanol), pressed, dried and ground.
  • the powder thus obtained may optionally be sterilized by irradiation or by high pressure.
  • Scleroglucan gum is a homopolysaccharide of very high molecular mass, hydrolysis of which gives only glucoses.
  • the main chain is constituted of ⁇ (l-3)-linked ⁇ -D-glucoses.
  • One in three glucose residues bears a ⁇ (l-6)-linked ⁇ -D-glucose, which prevents aggregation of the chains.
  • Scleroglucan gum is also known as sclerotium gum, sclerote gum or scleroglucan.
  • Scleroglucan gum is commercially available and is sold especially under the name Actigum CS by the company Sanofi Bio Industries, and in particular Actigum CS 11, and under the names Amigel, Amigum and Amigel Granule by the company Alban Muller International, or alternatively under the name Tinoderm SG-L by the BASF group.
  • This scleroglucan gum may optionally be modified, in particular via enzymatic treatments or by using modified strains. However, in a preferred embodiment, the scleroglucan gum is not modified.
  • the emulsion according to the present invention comprises scleroglucan gum in a content of between 0.6% and 3%, in particular between 0.7% and 1% and even more particularly between 0.8% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion that is the subject of the present patent application comprises Pickering particles.
  • the role of such particles is to stabilize Pickering emulsions.
  • Any particle commonly used for stabilizing Pickering-type emulsions may be used in the context of the present invention.
  • the particles may vary in shapes and sizes.
  • the particles may be chosen in particular according to their ability to position themselves at the W/O interfaces, i.e. their ability to be wetted with water and with oil. Moreover, they are characterized by a size of less than 40 ⁇ .
  • the wettability as indicated above may be measured according to the test indicated below.
  • the test is performed at room temperature (21 °C).
  • the particles retained according to the invention are those that are capable of stabilizing at least 10% of the initial amount of oil 8 hours after preparation. This is the case especially for synthetic magnesium phyllosilicates and PMMA particles as described especially under the respective names Sepimat H10 and Finesil.
  • the fillers conventionally contained in cosmetic compositions do not feature among Pickering particles.
  • Pickering particles mention may be made in particular of organic or inorganic particles.
  • the emulsion according to the present invention thus comprises as Pickering particles particles chosen from organic particles, such as polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) particles and inorganic particles such as magnesium silicate or synthetic magnesium phyllo silicate particles, and mixtures thereof.
  • PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
  • inorganic particles such as magnesium silicate or synthetic magnesium phyllo silicate particles, and mixtures thereof.
  • PMMA particles As Pickering particles, mention may be made in particular of polymer particles. In this respect, mention may be made of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) particles.
  • PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
  • Such PMMA particles that are suitable for use in the present invention may have a size of between 5 and 20 ⁇ .
  • PMMA particles that are suitable for use in the present invention may be chosen in particular from those sold under the name Sepimat H 10 PMMA (rice bowl) by the company SEPPIC. They have sizes of between 5 and 20 ⁇ .
  • the solid PMMA particles may be used in a content preferably of between 1% and 10% by weight, preferentially between 3% and 8% by weight and even more preferentially between 4% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion containing them.
  • magnesium silicate particles As mineral Pickering particles, mention may be made in particular of magnesium silicate particles.
  • Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates usually comprising aluminum silicate.
  • the crystal structure of talc consists of repeating layers of a sandwich of brucite between layers of silica.
  • Such a talc may be chosen more particularly from those sold under the names Rose Talc® and Talc SG-2000® sold by the company Nippon Talc, Luzenac Pharma M® sold by the company Luzenac, J-68BC from US Corporation and Micro ACE- P-3® sold by the company Nippon Talc.
  • the magnesium silicate Pickering particles may be used in a content preferably of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferentially between 0.1% and 2% by weight and even more preferentially between 0.1% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion containing them.
  • Such magnesium silicate Pickering particles preferably have a size of between 1 and 30 ⁇ , preferentially between 1 and 20 ⁇ and more preferentially between 2 and 15 ⁇ .
  • the Pickering-type emulsion comprises a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate.
  • the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said magnesium phyllosilicate has an X-ray diffraction line of greater than 9.4 A and less than or equal to 9.8 A.
  • the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said magnesium phyllosilicate has an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm “1 , corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the silanol groups Si-OH at the edge of the phyllosilicate sheets.
  • the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said magnesium phyllo silicate is characterized by the absence of an infrared absorption band at 7156 cm “1 . This band at 7156 cm "1 corresponds to the vibration band of Mg 2 FeOH.
  • the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said magnesium phyllosilicate also preferably has an infrared absorption band at 7184 cm "1 corresponding to the 2v Mg30H stretching vibration.
  • the synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate particles are adsorbed at the interface of the aqueous phase and of the oily phase and can thus stabilize said emulsion and allow the production of a macroscopically homogeneous composition.
  • a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention may be used in the emulsion according to the invention in the form of a powder or in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel and advantageously in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel.
  • said synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate in gel form was particularly effective for stabilizing said fatty phase/aqueous phase interfaces, and for forming fine emulsions that are stable over time.
  • synthetic magnesium phyllosilicates thus reduces the need for surfactants, in particular surfactants of ionic and/or nonionic nature, and therefore improves the ease of use of compositions comprising the emulsion according to the invention.
  • Synthetic magnesium phyllosilicates such as those described in patent application WO 2008/009799 and advantageously those disclosed in patent application FR 2 977 580 and also reported in patent application WO 2016/083385 are most particularly suitable for use in the invention.
  • said synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate is used therein in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel.
  • said synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate is used therein in a dry particulate (or powder) form.
  • said synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate is used therein in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel and in a dry particulate (or powder) form.
  • the synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention has a crystalline structure in accordance with that of a hydroxylated magnesium silicate of molecular formula Mg3Si40io(OH)2 belonging to the chemical family of phyllosilicates.
  • These phyllosilicates are generally formed from a stack of elemental leaflets of crystalline structure, the number of which ranges from a few units to a few tens of units. Each elemental leaflet is formed by the association of two layers of tetrahedra in which the silicon atoms are positioned, located on either side of a layer of octahedra in which the magnesium atoms are positioned. This group corresponds to the 2/1 phyllosilicates, which are also termed as being of T.O.T. type (tetrahedron-octahedron-tetrahedron) type.
  • a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention may be obtained according to a preparation process such as the one described in patent application WO 2008/009799 and is preferentially obtained according to the technology described in patent application FR 2 977 580.
  • This preparation process especially comprises a prolonged hydrothermal treatment, which makes it possible to obtain an aqueous gel of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate.
  • the synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate may be used in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, especially like the one obtained directly on conclusion of the synthetic process.
  • the parameters that influence the synthesis and the properties of a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate in gel form that is suitable for use in the invention are the nature of the heat treatment (200°C to 900°C), the pressure, the nature of the reagents and the proportions thereof.
  • the duration and temperature of the hydrothermal treatment make it possible to control the size of the particles.
  • the lower the temperature the smaller the synthesized particles, as described in application FR 2 977 580.
  • Controlling the size makes it possible to afford new properties and better control of both its hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties, i.e. amphiphilic properties.
  • such a gel obtained on conclusion of the synthetic process may be subjected to an optional step of washing with water/centrifugation, after which it is dried and milled.
  • the synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate is then available in powder form.
  • the synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate under consideration according to the invention may also be formulated in powder form within an emulsion according to the invention.
  • a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention may be characterized by various parameters, namely infrared absorption bands, its size and its purity, as detailed below.
  • analyses such as nuclear magnetic resonance in particular of 29 Si may be useful for the characterization of a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention.
  • thermogravimetric analysis TGA
  • X-ray diffraction may also be used for this purpose. Infrared
  • the machine used is a Nicolet 6700 FTIR Fourier transform spectrometer, equipped with an integration sphere, with an InGaA detector and a CaF 2 separator and a resolution of 12 cm “1 , more preferentially of 8 cm “1 and even more preferentially of 4 cm “1 .
  • the values of the infrared absorption bands given in this description should be considered as being approximately 6 cm “1 and more preferentially approximately 4 cm “1 and even more preferentially approximately 2 cm “1 .
  • the near infrared recordings of the stretching region located at 7184 cm “1 were broken down by pseudo-Voigt functions using the Fityk software (Wojdyr, 2010).
  • a composition comprising at least one aqueous part, such as an emulsion
  • this stretching may, for example, undergo such magnifications to plus or minus 200 cm "1 on either side of a suspected infrared absorption band.
  • a natural talc is a mineral species composed of doubly hydroxylated magnesium silicate of formula Mg3Si40io(OH) 2 , which may contain traces of nickel, iron, aluminum, calcium or sodium.
  • Natural talc has an infrared spectrum with a typical, fine and strong infrared absorption band at 7184 cm “1 corresponding to the stretching vibration 2v Mg30H. Natural talc also contains chemical elements which replace magnesium and silicon in the crystalline structure, which impose the appearance of at least one additional infrared absorption band, in particular that corresponding to the stretching vibration at 7156 cm “1 attributable to 2v Mg 2 FeOH.
  • the spectrum of the synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention differs from that of a natural talc by an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm "1 corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the silanol groups Si-OH at the edge of the phyllosilicate sheets.
  • a person skilled in the art may perform a stretching amplification, in particular in the region 7400 cm “1 - 7000 cm “1 and more particularly in the region 7300 cm “1 - 7100 cm “1 .
  • the spectrum of the synthetic phyllosilicate is also characterized by an absence of infrared absorption band at 7156 cm “1 .
  • This band at 7156 cm “1 corresponds to the vibration band of Mg 2 FeOH.
  • the spectrum of the synthetic phyllosilicate is also characterized by the infrared absorption band at 7184 cm “1 which is common to natural talc.
  • a broad infrared absorption band is detectable and readily identifiable, for example at 5500 cm 1 .
  • the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate has an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm "1 , corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the silanol groups Si-OH at the edge of the phyllosilicate sheets.
  • the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate is characterized by the absence of an infrared absorption band at 7156 cm “1 .
  • This band at 7156 cm “1 corresponds to the vibration band of Mg 2 FeOH.
  • the emulsion according to the present invention comprising said phyllosilicate also preferably has an infrared absorption band at 7184 cm "1 corresponding to the 2v Mg30H stretching vibration.
  • a broad infrared absorption band is detectable and readily identifiable, for example at 5500cm "1 .
  • This non-destructive technique requires dissolution of the particles.
  • the particle size measurement obtained by this technique corresponds to the value of the hydrodynamic diameter of the particle, i.e. it comprises both the particle size and also the thickness of the hydration layer.
  • the analyses were performed using a VASCO-2 particle size analyzer from Cordouan.
  • the NanoQTM software was used in multi-acquisition mode with the Pade- Laplace algorithm.
  • a synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention, when it is in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel advantageously has a mean size ranging from 300 nm to 500 nm.
  • a synthetic phyllosilicate when it is used in the form of a powder, like that obtained by dehydration of an aqueous gel, as defined above, may have a mean size ranging from a few microns to several hundred microns, preferably ranging from 5 ⁇ to 100 ⁇ , or may be in the form of porous micron or multimicron aggregates composed of said particles.
  • the synthetic phyllosilicate under consideration according to the invention has a degree of purity of at least 99.90% and preferably of at least 99.99%.
  • the silicon-29 ( 29 Si) NMR spectra were recorded on a Bruker Avance 400 (9.4 T) spectrometer.
  • the reference for the chemical shifts is tetramethylsilane (TMS).
  • TMS tetramethylsilane
  • the samples were placed in 4 mm zirconia rotors.
  • the magic angle spinning (MAS) speed was set at 8 kHz.
  • the experiments were performed at a room temperature of 21°C.
  • the 29 Si spectra were obtained either by direct polarization (rotation of 30°) with a recycling delay of 60 s, or by cross polarization (CP) between 1H and 29 Si (recycling time of 5 s and contact time of 3 ms).
  • Si silicon
  • NMR cross polarization
  • the recordings were made using a Perkin Elmer Diamonds thermobalance. For each analysis, about 20 mg of sample were required. During the analysis, the sample is subjected to a temperature increase ranging from 30°C to 1200°C at a rate of 10°C.min "1 under a stream of 100 mL.min "1 of air.
  • thermogravimetric analysis of a synthetic phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention shows lower thermal stability (at about 800°C) than that of natural talc and it is characterized by four losses of mass, in contrast with natural talc which has only one, at about 900°C.
  • a composition comprising at least an aqueous part, such as an emulsion
  • the X-ray diffractogram of the synthetic phyllo silicate that is suitable for use in the invention has the same positions of the diffraction lines as those of natural talc, with the exception of one line. Specifically, natural talc has a diffraction line at 9.36 A whereas the synthetic phyllo silicate in accordance with the invention has a diffraction line above 9.4 A, which may be up to 9.8 A.
  • the synthetic phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention has a diffraction line greater than 9.4 A and less than or equal to 9.8 A.
  • the synthetic phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention preferably has a diffraction line greater than or equal to 9.5 A, advantageously greater than or equal to 9.6 A, and preferentially greater than or equal to 9.7 A.
  • the synthetic phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention preferably has a diffraction line less than or equal to 9.7 A, advantageously less than or equal to 9.6 A, and preferentially less than or equal to 9.5 A.
  • the synthetic phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention may also have a diffraction line between 4.60 A and 4.80 A, and/or a diffraction line between 3.10 A and 3.20 A and/or a diffraction line between 1.51 A and 1.53 A.
  • a synthetic phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention is free of interfoliar cations. Specifically, this characteristic is demonstrated by the absence of an X-ray diffraction line located at a distance of between 12.00 A and 18.00 A, usually revealing a swelling phase with interfoliar spaces in which are found interfoliar cations and possible water molecules.
  • the "% by weight” means the “% by weight of solids” or “% by weight of active material”.
  • a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention is in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel form, it is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight of active material, more preferentially from 1% to 7.5% by weight of active material, and better still from 2% to 4% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the emulsion per 0.3%> to 50%> by weight of oily phase, preferentially per 2% to 25% by weight of oily phase and better still per 4% to 20% by weight of oily phase.
  • An aqueous gel of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention, as used in the examples below, may in particular be in the form of platelets with a size of between 300 and 600 nm.
  • a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention is in anhydrous (powder) form, it is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight of active material, especially from 0.5% to 35% by weight of active material, preferably from 1% to 32% by weight of active material and more preferentially from 2% to 30% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • synthetic magnesium silicates in powder form mention may be made in particular of the synthetic magnesium phyllosilicates sold under the name Finesil X-35 Silice ovo ' ide, with a size of about 5 ⁇ .
  • the emulsion has a content of particles of greater than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion comprises, as Pickering particles, particles of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate in gel form.
  • the emulsion comprises at least 1% by weight of Pickering particles and scleroglucan gum in a content of between 1% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • an emulsion according to the invention may advantageously be a cosmetic or dermatological emulsion.
  • an emulsion according to the invention since an emulsion according to the invention is intended for topical application to the skin and/or the nails, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium means a medium that is compatible with the skin and/or the nails.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is in particular a cosmetically or dermato logically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that has no unpleasant odor, color or appearance, and that does not cause the user any unacceptable stinging, tautness or redness.
  • the aqueous phase of an emulsion according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 21°C and atmospheric pressure).
  • the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
  • the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to
  • the aqueous phase of an emulsion according to the invention may comprise at least one C 2 -C 32 polyol.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
  • a polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
  • the polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those especially containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
  • said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the invention may comprise at least propylene glycol.
  • composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol.
  • the particles when the particles are synthetic magnesium phyllo silicate particles in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, it constitutes all or part of the aqueous phase.
  • a synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention, in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, constitutes all or part of the aqueous phase, i.e. the aqueous phase of the emulsion is exclusively constituted of this gel and of scleroglucan gum.
  • the fatty phase includes any liquid fatty substance, generally oils (also known as liquid or oily fatty phase), or solid fatty substance like waxes or pasty compounds (also known as solid fatty phase).
  • a liquid fatty phase is also called an oily phase and comprises at least one oil.
  • oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non- fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the oils may be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • the oils may be polar or apolar, as defined below.
  • oils of plant origin are preferred.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil with a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • volatile oil means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a nonzero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • polar ⁇ means an oil whose solubility parameter 5 a at 25°C is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • polar oil means an oil whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
  • ⁇ ⁇ ( ⁇ ⁇ 2 + 5h 2 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the parameters ⁇ ⁇ , 5h, 5D and 5 a are expressed as (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the polar oils used according to the present invention have a 5 a of between 4 and 9.1, preferably a 5 a of between 6 and 9.1, even better still between 7.3 and 9.1.
  • the volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms mention may be made especially of branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffms), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Cs-Ci6 alkanes for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffms)
  • isododecane isodecane
  • isohexadecane isohexadecane
  • the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl branched Cs-Ci6 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.
  • volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms
  • C12 n-dodecane
  • C14 n-tetradecane
  • the undecane-tridecane mixture mixtures of n-undecane
  • Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
  • Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
  • nonvolatile oil means an oil with a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mrnHg).
  • the nonvolatile oils may be chosen especially from nonvolatile hydrocarbon- based oils and/or silicone oils.
  • Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,
  • the esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid alcohol esters, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or octyl hydroxystearate, alkyl or polyalkyl ricinoleates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate or isotridecyl neopentanoate, or esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate or isotridecyl isononanoate,
  • fatty acid alcohol esters for instance cetostearyl
  • non-phenyl silicone oils for instance caprylyl methicone
  • phenyl silicone oils for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and trimethyl-pentaphenyl-trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and also mixtures of these various oils.
  • an emulsion according to the invention comprises volatile and/or nonvolatile silicone oils.
  • An emulsion according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 50% by weight, better still from 2% to 20% by weight and preferably from 2.5% to 10% by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
  • the oil contents are adjusted to obtain optimum stability.
  • the nature of the oil may also have an influence on the preferred ranges of contents.
  • the content of polar oil may be between 1% and 10%> by weight, preferably from 2% to 7% by weight and even more preferentially between 4% and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the content of apolar oil may be between 1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 5% and 15% by weight and even more preferentially between 9% and 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the nonvolatile polar oils may be chosen especially from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils, which may be fluorinated, and/or nonvolatile silicone oils.
  • nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,
  • oils of plant origin such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyl-dodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate, for example sold under the name Eldew PS203 by Ajinomoto, triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, camelina oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton seed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalf
  • castor oil comprising at least 50% by weight of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 14-C22 fatty acids, preferably at least 70% by weight of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C16-C20 fatty acids, even better still at least 50%> by weight of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, including less than 5% by weight of saturated CI 8 fatty acids, preferably less than 2.5%> by weight of saturated CI 8 fatty acids such as stearic acid, 50%> to 98%> by weight of monounsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, more preferentially 80% to 98% by weight of monounsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, such as ricinoleic and oleic acids, less than 10%> by weight of polyunsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, preferably from 2%> to 8%> of polyunsaturated CI 8 fatty acids such as linoleic
  • camelina oil comprising at least 50% by weight of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C14-C22 fatty acids, preferably at least 70%> by weight of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 16-C20 fatty acids, better still at least 50% by weight of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, including less than 5% by weight of saturated CI 8 fatty acids such as stearic acid, 12% to 26% by weight of monounsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, from 35% to 64%> by weight of polyunsaturated CI 8 fatty acids such as linoleic and linolenic acids, relative to the total weight of fatty acids present in said camelina oil; such a camelina oil is sold by Greentech under the name Camelina Refined Oil C05002.
  • caprylic/capric acid triglycerides mention may be made of those comprising from 45% to 80% by weight of C8 fatty acids and from 20% to 45% by weight of CIO fatty acids, and especially those sold by PT Musim Mas.
  • esters for instance oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Rl represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Rl + R2 is 3 10.
  • the esters may be chosen especially from especially fatty acid esters, for instance:
  • fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 18 to 20 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecano 1;
  • dialkyl carbonates the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as the dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis;
  • diesters of C2-C16, preferably C8-C12, dicarboxylic acid and of C1-C4 monoalcohol, preferably of branched C3-C4 monoalcohol preferably diesters of C2-C16, preferably C8-C12, dicarboxylic acid and of C1-C4 monoalcohol, preferably of branched C3-C4 monoalcohol.
  • diester of sebacic acid and of isopropyl alcohol such as the diisopropyl sebacate sold under the name DUB DIS by Stearineries Dubois;
  • nonvolatile silicone oils for instance nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are on the side and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof;
  • PDMSs nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenyl trimethicones for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dime
  • Volatile polar oils that may also be used are volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 x 10 "6 m 2 /s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, o ctamethy ltrisilo xane , decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof, may also be used.
  • the polar oil(s) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2 in which Rl represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Rl + R2 is 3 10, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, dialkyl carbonates, diesters of a C2-C16 dicarboxylic acid and of a C1-C4 monoalcohol; and mixtures thereof.
  • Rl represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms
  • R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Rl + R2 is 3 10, fatty alcohols that
  • the polar oil(s) are chosen from triglycerides constituted of esters of glycerol and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4 to C24 fatty acids; esters of isopropyl alcohol and of a C8-C18, preferably C12-C16, fatty acid; fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 18 to 20 carbon atoms; dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains being identical, preferably dicaprylyl carbonate; diesters of a C8-C12 dicarboxylic acid and of a branched C3-C4 monoalcohol, preferably diisopropyl sebacate; and mixtures thereof.
  • triglycerides constituted of esters of glycerol and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4 to C24 fatty acids
  • the polar oil(s) within the context of the present invention may preferably be chosen from triglycerides constituted of esters of glycerol and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4 to C24 fatty acids; esters of isopropyl alcohol and of C8-C18 fatty acid, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polar oil(s) within the context of the present invention may preferably be chosen from triglycerides of glycerol and of C6-C12 fatty acids, triglycerides of glycerol and of C14-C22 fatty acids, esters of isopropyl alcohol and of C8-C18 fatty acids, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon- based chain containing from 18 to 20 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • the triglycerides of glycerol and of C14-C22 fatty acids comprise from 50% to 100% by weight of linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated CI 8 fatty acids, including 0 to 5% by weight of saturated CI 8 fatty acids such as stearic acid, from 50% to 98% by weight of monounsaturated fatty acids such as ricinoleic and/or oleic acids, and/or from 2% to 70%> by weight of polyunsaturated CI 8 fatty acids such as linoleic and/or linolenic acids, relative to the total weight of fatty acids contained within said triglycerides.
  • the triglycerides of glycerol and of C6-C12 fatty acids comprise from 45% to 80% by weight of C8 fatty acids and from 20% to 45% by weight of CIO fatty acids, relative to the total weight of fatty acids contained within said triglycerides.
  • apolar ⁇ means an oil whose solubility parameter 5 a at 25°C as defined above is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • apolar oils examples that may be mentioned include:
  • Hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin for instance: linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes (also known as isoparaffms) such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade name Isopar ® or Permethyl ® ; linear alkanes, for instance n-dodecane (CI 2) and n-tetradecane (CI 4), sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the n-undecane (CI 1) and n- tridecane (CI 3) mixtures obtained in examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO2008/155059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
  • the apolar oil is chosen from nonvolatile apolar oils; better still, the apolar oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, in particular linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. In a preferred embodiment, the apolar oil is squalane.
  • the term "wax” means a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature (21°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than 30°C which may be up to 200°C, a hardness of greater than 0.5 MPa, and having anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state.
  • the waxes that may be used in the invention are compounds that are solid at room temperature, which are intended to structure the composition in particular in stick form; they may be hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin. In particular, they have a melting point of greater than 40°C and better still greater than 45°C.
  • waxes that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of those generally used in cosmetics: they are especially of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugarcane wax, rice wax, montan wax, paraffin, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated oils such as jojoba oil; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene and Fischer-Tropsch waxes, or alternatively fatty acid esters such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides that are solid at 40°C and better still at 45°C, silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones with an alkyl or alkoxy chain of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, poly(di)methylsiloxane esters that are solid at 40°C, the ester chain of which
  • the term "pasty" is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 99%, preferably from 1% to 60%, better from 2% to 30% and better still from 5% to 20% by weight of pasty compound(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the liquid fatty phase may contain other compounds dissolved in the oils, such as gelling agents and/or structuring agents.
  • These compounds may be chosen in particular from gums, such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl(Cl-C4 alkyl) dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone, and silicone elastomers, for instance the products sold under the KSG names by the company Shin- Etsu, under the name Trefil by the company Dow Corning or under the Gransil names by the company Grant Industries; and mixtures thereof.
  • All the abovementioned fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by a person skilled in the art so as to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in terms of consistency or texture.
  • the proportion of fatty phase will be chosen according to the sense of the emulsion.
  • the emulsion will be an oil- in- water emulsion.
  • the fatty phase may thus be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 50% and better still from 2.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase comprises an oil chosen from alkanes, such as isohexadecane, esters such as isopropyl palmitate, ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, triglycerides such as capric/caprylic acid triglyceride and silicones, in particular nonvolatile silicones such as polydimethylsiloxanes, for instance PDMS 6 cSt.
  • alkanes such as isohexadecane
  • esters such as isopropyl palmitate
  • ethers such as dicaprylyl ether
  • triglycerides such as capric/caprylic acid triglyceride
  • silicones in particular nonvolatile silicones such as polydimethylsiloxanes, for instance PDMS 6 cSt.
  • the emulsions according to the invention may, in addition, also comprise additional cosmetic and dermatological active agents.
  • the emulsions according to the invention may comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from opacifiers, stabilizers, preserving agents, polymers, fragrances, thickeners, gelling agents, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents, fillers, suspension agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • cosmetic adjuvants chosen from opacifiers, stabilizers, preserving agents, polymers, fragrances, thickeners, gelling agents, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents, fillers, suspension agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • the emulsions according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the emulsion according to the invention when it is cosmetic or dermato logical, it may be in the form of an oil- in- water or a water-in-oil emulsion of liquid to semisolid consistency.
  • the emulsion is in the form of an oil-in-water (direct emulsion (O/W)) or water-in-oil (inverse emulsion (W/O)) emulsion and more preferentially an oil- in-water emulsion.
  • O/W direct emulsion
  • W/O inverse emulsion
  • the cosmetic emulsions according to the invention may be used, for example, as makeup products for facial and/or bodily skin, and/or for the nails.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be used, for example, as care, cleansing and/or sun protection products for facial and/or bodily skin and/or for the nails, of liquid to semiliquid consistency, such as milks, creams of varying smoothness, cream gels or pastes.
  • They may optionally be packaged in aerosol form and may be in the form of a mousse or a spray.
  • compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions in accordance with the invention are applied to the skin or nails in the form of fine particles by means of pressurizing devices.
  • the devices suitable for use in the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and comprise non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as propellant. These devices are described in patents US 4 077 441 and US 4 850 517.
  • compositions packaged in aerosol form in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants, for instance hydro fluoro compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane or trichlorofluoromethane. They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 15% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the emulsion is not in the form of a mousse.
  • the emulsion according to the invention may also comprise at least one deodorant active agent and/or at least one antiperspirant active agent.
  • deodorant active agent refers to any substance that is capable of masking, absorbing, improving and/or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.
  • the deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odor microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( ⁇ Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea ( ⁇ Triclocarban) or 3,7,11- trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol ( ⁇ Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, polyols such as those of glycerol type, 1,3-propanediol (Zemea Propanediol® sold by DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products), 1,2-decanedi
  • deodorant active agents in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made in addition of:
  • zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc phenolsulfonate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (more commonly known as zinc pidolate), zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc ricinoleate, zinc glycinate, zinc carbonate, zinc citrate, zinc chloride, zinc laurate, zinc oleate, zinc orthophosphate, zinc stearate, zinc tartrate, zinc acetate or mixtures thereof;
  • - odor absorbers such as zeolites, especially silver-free metal zeolites, cyclodextrins, metal oxide silicates such as those described in patent application US 2005/063 928; metal oxide particles modified with a transition metal, as described in patent applications US 2005/084 464 and US 2005/084 474, alumino silicates such as those described in patent application EP 1 658 863, chitosan-based particles such as those described in patent US 6 916 465; - sodium bicarbonate;
  • the deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • antiperspirant active agent means a salt which, by itself, has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat, of reducing the sensation on the skin of moisture associated with human sweat or of masking human sweat.
  • antiperspirant active agents mention may be made of the antiperspirant salts or complexes of aluminum and/or of zirconium, preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid, such as those described in patent US-3 792 068.
  • aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or unactivated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, the aluminum chlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum chlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, the aluminum dichlorohydrex-poly ethylene glycol complex, the aluminum dichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminum sesquichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminum sulfate buffered with sodium aluminum lactate.
  • aluminum zirconium salts mention may be made in particular of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.
  • the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine).
  • ZAG when the amino acid is glycine.
  • Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate is in particular sold under the trade name Reach 301® by the company SummitReheis.
  • the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid such as glycine having the INCI name: Aluminium Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex Gly, for example the product sold under the name Reach AZP-908-SUF® by the company SummitReheis.
  • the antiperspirant active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of from 0.001% to 30% by weight, and preferably in a proportion of from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a Pickering-type emulsion in particular a cosmetic emulsion, according to the invention comprises:
  • the percentages are percentages by weight.
  • the ingredients are mixed in an order and under conditions that are readily determined by a person skilled in the art.
  • Example 1 Compositions according to and outside the invention comprising a gel of synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate as particles
  • Emulsions 1 to 3 were prepared according to the following protocol: 1) Synthetic magnesium phyllosilicate and, where appropriate, scleroglucan gum are dispersed in water with stirring using a Rayneri blender with stirring;
  • the emulsion is formed at a temperature of 20-25°C (there is no solid fatty substance) at said temperature with stirring at 9600 rpm (Ultra-Turrax blender);
  • composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3
  • %> AM means the percentage of active material.
  • compositions 2 and 3 show, in addition to advantageous results in terms of stability, an improvement as regards the sensory properties, and in particular with regard to the freshness effect.
  • Example 2 Compositions comprising different types of particles
  • the emulsion is formed at a temperature of 20-25°C (there is no solid fatty substance) at said temperature with stirring at 9600 rpm (Ultra-Turrax blender);
  • Tack 2.5 Tack: 2.5 sensory nature (n Tack: 2.5 Tack: 2 oily,
  • Example 3 Compositions comprising various contents of particles and of scleroglucan gum
  • the emulsion is formed at a temperature of 20-25°C (there is no solid fatty substance) at said temperature with stirring at 9600 rpm (Ultra-Turrax blender);
  • composition Composition Composition
  • composition Composition Composition Composition
  • compositions of this example have a satisfactory sensory effect as regards the wetting effect.
  • Example 4 Composition outside of the invention comprising silica silylate
  • composition of this example which does not comprise Pickering particles according to the invention, does not present satisfactory cosmetic or sensory properties.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une émulsion de type Pickering, en particulier une émulsion cosmétique, comprenant : (a) au moins des particules de Pickering choisies parmi des particules organiques, le silicate de magnésium, des particules synthétiques de phyllosilicate de magnésium, et des mélanges de celles-ci; (b) de la gomme de scléroglucane; (c) au moins une phase aqueuse; et (d) au moins une phase huileuse. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation d'une gomme de scléroglucane dans une émulsion de type Pickering comprenant au moins des particules de Pickering, en tant qu'agent favorisant au moins une propriété sensorielle améliorée choisie parmi les sensations d'effet sec, d'effet frais et sans effet mouillant. Enfin, l'invention concerne un procédé de préparation correspondant ainsi qu'un procédé de traitement cosmétique comprenant l'application d'une émulsion selon l'invention sur la peau et/ou les ongles.
PCT/EP2017/084466 2016-12-27 2017-12-22 Émulsion de pickering à effet sensoriel amélioré WO2018122187A1 (fr)

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